CRT Fetish Thread

skate323k137

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Well then fuck that. lol Sick of people trying to convince me I should do anything but dread recapping.
When it's things like arcade CRT's, it's not as bad, since those are usually a lot of single layer PCBs which are the easiest by far to desolder and clear the thru hole. The problem is when you fast forward to shit like PVM's, you have dual (or more? IDK) layer PCBs with fucktons of caps everywhere. Start getting into SMD stuff... A shotgun recap as maintenance isn't something I would even consider on a PVM or newer multi-sync monitor. I would agree that 'dread' is accurate for that kind of work.

Another word on that component tester, I use it a lot for hobby assembly. It virtually eliminates having to read values from resistor bands when assembling kits that were just tossed all together. Great for sorting out new parts and verifying you don't solder a faulty brand new component into your board or repair.
 

joe9

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I you're only worried about ESR then yea. I totally get not wanting to desolder them to test them, it's a pain, but for capacitance it's the only good way.
For the monitor I have, it's not really practical to do it that way. There's maybe a hundred of them, and the PCBs would have to be disassembled (from each other) before you could reach them for desoldering.
From just looking at them, none of them of are bulging/leaking (the ones I can see easily, anyway).
The PVM has weird problems (that it didn't have when I first got it). Such, the sync doesn't work on RGB, and I can't scroll through the options on the service menu (either using the remote, or the controls on the front of the monitor).
 
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skate323k137

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For the monitor I have, it's not really practical to do it that way. There's maybe a hundred of them, and the PCBs would have to be disassembled (from each other) before you could reach them for desoldering.
From just looking at them, none of them of are bulging/leaking (the ones I can see easily, anyway).
The PVM has weird problems (that it didn't have when I first got it). Such, the sync doesn't work on RGB, and I can't scroll through the options on the service menu (either using the remote, or the controls on the front of the monitor).
Your idea to check esr in circuit isn't bad, I hope you can find your issue.
 

Neo Alec

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When it's things like arcade CRT's, it's not as bad, since those are usually a lot of single layer PCBs which are the easiest by far to desolder and clear the thru hole.
Yeah, but you have to take the CRT out and take it apart.
 

NGLad

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Got this JVC D-Series 27" (AV27D500) for free off marketplace. Currently using HD-retrovision component cables. Looks great! The only problem with his TV is the thicc ass bubble.

I find side scrolling games really have that fish eye look that bothers me. Tried playing with the service menu to no avail.
 

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joe9

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Can anyone recommend a SCART->BNC sync stripper (other than Arcadeforge one), or a SCART->BNC cable (with sync stripper built in) that would get RGB working on a Sony 2950Q PVM?
 

Catoblepa

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Finally connected one of those 17" Hantarex and Semio monitors I've "rescued" from an arcade operator who was about to send them to the dumpster. Checked it with my Supergun, through an RGB Scart adapter... this is a Polo 3, and as expected the picture quality is fantastic. I'm planning to turn it into a gaming CRT with a metal frame and some mods, but that'll take a while!

2IGjzwh.jpg


eBzSy1P.jpg
 

joe9

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Does anyone have a Sony 2730Q PVM (or a KX-27HG2)?
I have one, but it's in so bad condition that it doesn't work.
 
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skate323k137

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I'm still waiting for the service manual in the mail but thanks to IEC still making obscure cables, I was able to wire digital CGA RGB from a Laser 128. This is the first system or computer old enough that I've owned to even try TTL RGB (not analog). I had to set a few DIP switches on the NEC. Here is Composite 1st for reference.


20221209_224022.jpg

And TTL RGB 15k:

20221217_175330.jpg
 

skate323k137

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Some good news; after years of looking I finally have a hard copy of the service manual for the NEC CM-2791.

It's in mint shape, but the tricky part here is the last half of the manual is a lot of pull-out pages, centerfold style stuff. I have no good way to scan this well at the moment and I'll be damned if I'm sending this out for destructive professional scanning. Open to ideas though.
 

GohanX

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How large are the pages unfolded? I have access to a large flatbed scanner at work.
 

skate323k137

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How large are the pages unfolded? I have access to a large flatbed scanner at work.
I would say the largest fold outs are probably 11x24, I could measure to be sure.

DSLR and photoshop?
This is a thought for sure, I have an EOS Digital camera, or my new phone has a 'scan' mode which isn't terrible. A proper scan would still probably be better.

Handheld scanner?
That's a thought; something I could pick up from the Amazon?
 

GohanX

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My scan bed is slightly larger than 11x17, unfortunately. It could still be doable by scanning in two sections and combining images in Photoshop, it would just be a lot of work if there are a lot of fold out pages.
 

skate323k137

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My scan bed is slightly larger than 11x17, unfortunately. It could still be doable by scanning in two sections and combining images in Photoshop, it would just be a lot of work if there are a lot of fold out pages.
There are several, like the whole 2nd half of the manual.

It's important to me this gets preserved and shared so I'll figure it out, still appreciate all the ideas.
 

doaal

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Put my PVM and most of my games in storage last year, moved to the UK, yadda yadda.

CRT prices are ridiculous. I got my PVM free ten years ago. Now people are trying to hock Sanyo VCR combos for >£50. Anything Sony is over £100.
 

joe9

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Can anyone suggest a good way to pack a 14" Sony PVM for shipping?
e.g., double boxed?
 
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joe9

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YOU ALREADY ASKED THIS QUESTION IN CHAT AND THEN POSTED A YOUTUBE VIDEO ON HOW TO DO IT.
I'm just asking a question, people don't have to answer it, if they don't want to.
 
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