CRT Fetish Thread

Dochartaigh

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Also picked up a JVC D series. AV-27D201 for $5 and a 1 hour drive round trip. Has color bleeding on red and some linearity problems but I have no remote. Ordered one online which should allow me to correct the red push and linearity (hopefully). Looks real good though.

Have you put a test grid up on it from something like the 240p Test Suite? I've gotten two JVC 27D502's lately, and both were extremely fuzzy on the left and right side – center was great.

I've been trying to find out if it was just bad luck, twice, or if they're all mostly like this. If they're all mostly like that, I have no clue how some people swear they're better than the Sony FV310's (which my three kick the crap out of those JVC's). The JVC's looked fine playing most games though.
 

ChuChu Flamingo

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I'll have to check. I need to ask a friend to use a sd2snes for the 240p test suite again when I get the remote.I didn't notice it at first until I started climbing ladders. In fighting games and the like it was fine. I'll post it later.

Imo these jvcs probably need a recap since they were made in the 2000's. Never know how long these were used can also impact the pq.When I opened this one up it had like 3-4 boards stacked with capacitors. Easily 100-150.

I opened it up to dust it since it had cobwebs and noticed the tube doesn't have convergence rings. It is one of those yokes that has the convergence set at the factory. Are all jvc d-series tubes like this or do some have purity rings/convergence rings?

A shame I didn't get a Fv310. Maybe one of these days I will. I plan to pick up a few more D-series if I see them. This one is a AV-27D201. Yours is probably the next years model but it seems like they made jvc d series from 2000-2005ish. I wonder if the later ones are better?
 
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MKL

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I opened it up to dust it since it had cobwebs and noticed the tube doesn't have convergence rings. It is one of those yokes that has the convergence set at the factory. Are all jvc d-series tubes like this or do some have purity rings/convergence rings?

It's a Thomson CRT. They don't have discrete, adjustable rings. It's a single ring or ferrite sheath with all the adjustments for purity and convergence.
 

ChuChu Flamingo

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It's a Thomson CRT. They don't have discrete, adjustable rings. It's a single ring or ferrite sheath with all the adjustments for purity and convergence.

So do all jvc crts have thomson tubes in them? Seems like ass if you ever need to adjust the yoke compared to ones that have rings+magnet.

I did notice on my Toshiba 27A60 it has a similar setup since it is a thomson, but the yoke is bonded/taped. The yoke is a cool red color instead of the orange you usually see. Very good convergence on it everywhere/geometry except the corners which I need to fix.
 

MKL

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The yoke is an integral part of the tube and is not meant to be touched again once it leaves the factory. But if you really wanted you could remove the ring and replace it with an adjustable ring assembly, it's no big deal. The point you seem to miss is that the rings only affect the convergence in the center of the screen, not in corners.
 

ChuChu Flamingo

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What I meant to say is if the yoke came loose. I had an Apex that the glue literally fell off in big chunks and the convergence was all types of messed up. Had a thomson tube as well.

And yeah the rings do seem to only adjust the middle in my experience like you stated. I need to make some convergence strips to fix the corners but honesty most of the time I don't even notice it.
 
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Dochartaigh

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Imo these jvcs probably need a recap since they were made in the 2000's. Never know how long these were used can also impact the pq.When I opened this one up it had like 3-4 boards stacked with capacitors. Easily 100-150.

I opened it up to dust it since it had cobwebs and noticed the tube doesn't have convergence rings. It is one of those yokes that has the convergence set at the factory. Are all jvc d-series tubes like this or do some have purity rings/convergence rings?

Yours really has 3-4 stacked boards? I was so surprised when I opened up the 502-series JVC to see (if my memory serves) only two main boards. A main board (which maybe had a vertical board? plugged into it or something?), and the board on the back of the neck. I'm so used to opening up PVM and BVM's with like ~5-8+ boards so I forgot that many consumer sets are super sparse like this (reminded me of an arcade monitor).




It's a Thomson CRT. They don't have discrete, adjustable rings. It's a single ring or ferrite sheath with all the adjustments for purity and convergence.

How do you go about adjusting purity and convergence on set like this? I poked through the entire set with a flashlight (and took a look at the service manual) and the only thing I saw to adjust was the pots for Focus (Convergence?) and Screen. - But I'm still new to all this so I'm sure I'm missing something simple hopefully.

Service menu really stinks for these as well FYI - I forget which exactly, but it was missing some super-simple run of the mill option (which I've never, ever, seen missing) for something basic like V Centering; and H width wouldn't go wide enough to get as much overscan as I normally want (which is my largest complaint from the ~10 of so pro-series JVC's I've owned...seems like it's in their consumer sets as well).
 

ChuChu Flamingo

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Focus on the flyback will adjust how sharp or blurry the whole picture is. Generally you want the middle to be as sharp as possible with the outside being not as sharp. It really is a compromise and you need to see what is best. On my Sony PC CRT it actually has two focus adjustments, one for the middle of the screen and outside. Quite nice imo but you aren't as lucky on consumer sets.

Screen/G2 is usually adjusted if you see retrace lines. It is kinda like brightness but not.If you do adjust it make sure not to turn it to high or else your monitor will auto shut down from too much voltage. MKL can probably explain better, hes a whiz at this stuff.

but yeah this JVC had the input board stacked vertically, another tuner card, main board, and one more connected to it. When I mean stacked I mean in regards to the sheer amount of capacitors.Usually when I open consumer tvs they just have one mainboard, maybe an extra board.
 
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MKL

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You people that are so fussy about geometry, convergence, etc. why do you still bother with consumer sets? OK, prices of broadcast monitors are skyrocketing but PC monitors are still cheap. Get some good Sony models like CPD-E500 or GDM-F520. With a good upscaler (OSSC) you can get BVM-like picture quality for very cheap and tons of adjustments that you cannot have on consumer sets, including convergence through OSD.
 

GohanX

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You people that are so fussy about geometry, convergence, etc. why do you still bother with consumer sets? OK, prices of broadcast monitors are skyrocketing but PC monitors are still cheap. Get some good Sony models like CPD-E500 or GDM-F520. With a good upscaler (OSSC) you can get BVM-like picture quality for very cheap and tons of adjustments that you cannot have on consumer sets, including convergence through OSD.

Now that's what I'm talkin' bout. OSSC + cheap vga converter + $4 Dell Trinitron VGA monitor > most PVMs in 2018.

I actually hooked up my OSSC to a gaming LCD yesterday and was quite pleased. I only keep my consumer trini around now because it's big.
 

Dochartaigh

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Focus on the flyback will adjust how sharp or blurry the whole picture is. Generally you want the middle to be as sharp as possible with the outside being not as sharp. It really is a compromise and you need to see what is best. On my Sony PC CRT it actually has two focus adjustments, one for the middle of the screen and outside. Quite nice imo but you aren't as lucky on consumer sets.

My last PVM I opened up had NINE focus adjustments on it (and I think an overall one too maybe?, so that's 10 lol)! I was pissed the JVC couldn't even get the sides to be sharp without absolutely destroying the center...



You people that are so fussy about geometry, convergence, etc. why do you still bother with consumer sets? OK, prices of broadcast monitors are skyrocketing but PC monitors are still cheap. Get some good Sony models like CPD-E500 or GDM-F520. With a good upscaler (OSSC) you can get BVM-like picture quality for very cheap and tons of adjustments that you cannot have on consumer sets, including convergence through OSD.

because proper, not faked, 240p + light gun games (besides Dreamcast which does work on 480p VGA monitors ;) I honestly love being able to go from S-VHS (yes, I watch Karate Kid and The Goonies while soldering shit lol), to NES, to 480p on my Xbox or DC, all on the same PVM or BVM monitor.

I did try this route though, and it was a pain. My ratio of finding decent spec'd PC CRT monitors, 20"+ in size (17" wasn't going to do it), is literally 100:1 (with the 100 being how many PVM/BVM's I found in that same period of time). Those are way hard to find in the Northeast - more than I could believe. I finally picked up a Sony CPD-520GS I think. Guy said it was his server monitor which was only turned on once every couple weeks. It still didn't hold a candle to my BVM-D20 if I'm to be honest. I'm still looking for another PC monitor to test just in case my Sony PC monitor has something wrong with it and is why it isn't even close to the BVM.
 
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ChuChu Flamingo

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Yeah this JVC has some relatively bad fish eye effect going on (linearity). I don't notice it in fighting games and it looks decent at a cross hatch. Side scrolling games it is pretty bad.I adjusted a few service menu numbers making sure to write down og numbers to improve it a little bit. From a quick google it seems someone had the same problem and a recap fixed 99% of it. I assume the deflection area probably needs a recap but im a newb.

At least with my wegas the linearity was only on vertical movements on one side (KV-27FS100). Corners are pretty fuzzy, more than they should be. One thing to keep in mind is that this tv was moved around a lot and is one of the first jvc d-series. It also belonged to a retired army couple who could have used it a lot. I plan to pick up a few more eventually, would love to get a 32" one.

Shitty pics below

Geometry of AV-27D201. A little bit of squigglyness on the vertical lines if you notice.

RxIDkMCl.jpg


Geometry of Toshiba 27A60. Kinda cool they are both thomson tubes. Geometry is pretty spot on all things considered. No color bleed. I don't notice any linearity issues when playing horizontal or vertical games. Corner sharpness is pretty good, I just need to make some convergence strips for the corners one of these days.

FFDyFwhl.jpg


Overall the jvc is nice but the one problem I can't seem to fix other than the fish eye is massive color bleeding. Even at default contrast and color it still bleeds on all colors, most notably red through component. Turning up contrast and keeping color at 45/100 it bleeds more with contrast. S-video doesn't really seem to have this problem. I can put the color at default and contrast as high as I want and it won't bleed.

I don't mind recapping it but It would be cool to know exactly where to recap instead of shotgunning. With this in mind I can't find the service manual anyhow so I would have to manually make a cap kit when there is like 150+ capacitors lol. Model number is jvc AV-27D201. The only service manual I found just has schematics.

T7KCQ5N.jpg
 
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MKL

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It needs to be calibrated. Check the service manual for white balance adjustment procedure.
 

ChuChu Flamingo

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Any good guides? Service manual doesn't exist for my model on how to do it, even checked another and it doesn't have a procedure.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/991197/Jvc-Av-32230.html?page=18#manual

I assume I would have to adjust CMP since that is the component adjustment. From reading online these jvc service adjustments are vague and not much info is out there. Even the service manual I found doesn't list the capacitors, just a schematic no procedures.

I have calibrated my arcade monitor with RGB cut/gain, brightness, contrast, and flyback before. Is that the same procedure as white adjustment? I do have a Avia test pattern with a blue filter as well. Here is how I did my arcade monitor.

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/How_to_Correctly_Set_Up_Monitor_Colours_and_Brightness
 

ChuChu Flamingo

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Alright thanks. I'll let you know how it turns out when I do it.

I assume for ScreenVR[in HVT] they are talking about it on the flyback. For the procedure they state to have a black and white test pattern. I should be fine hooking up 240p test suite on a SNES + turning down the color all the way.
 

city41

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Anyone know if it's possible to adjust a BVM-8045QD (tiny lil 8" monitor) so that it doesn't do this at the top of the screen?

gTo0eao.jpg


The "1p" near the Bomberman head icon is distorted

And here. Andy's icon and other parts of the top tile row are distorted:

Ps8h9f6g.jpg


It only happens when the pixels up there are bright. Dark colors are fine. I can't find anything online on whether this thing has a service menu or any way to adjust the screen down out of that area. I have two of these monitors and both have this issue.

EDIT: looking closer, the right side of the screen is cut off. Just need to adjust the geometry I think.
 
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city41

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Word has it there are adjustment pots inside if you just remove the case.
 

Dochartaigh

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Anyone know if it's possible to adjust a BVM-8045QD (tiny lil 8" monitor) so that it doesn't do this at the top of the screen?

............

It only happens when the pixels up there are bright. Dark colors are fine. I can't find anything online on whether this thing has a service menu or any way to adjust the screen down out of that area. I have two of these monitors and both have this issue.

EDIT: looking closer, the right side of the screen is cut off. Just need to adjust the geometry I think.

You can adjust the geometry via pots inside - they're on the 2x fly-out circuit boards. You can find the service manual here under PVM-8045 (these really aren't BVM's), should be pretty close (only difference on your model should be the SDI):

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/wiki/speclist

That curl on the top is usually bad sync, but these are pretty flexible with their sync on the earlier systems so it may be a bad cap or other area of the board. While you're in there adjusting the H/V/size/centering see if any caps look deformed - never a surefire way to tell but if there's anything really glaring you should be able to see it at least.
 

3rdStrikeMike

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This guy was listed on a local Craigslist posting. The owner had it listed on eBay for 79.00. He said he couldn't get it sold, so he listed it for 25.00 on CL. I offered him 20 bucks and he agreed. It was a bit dirty and had some little scuffs from being moved around in storage. I wiped it down thoroughly and removed a little Velcro strip it had on the top. I used a magic eraser and got nearly all the marks off of it. Screen is in awesome shape as well. No scratches. Speaker works quite well too. I tried some old NES games on it and for the hell of it hooked up a 360. It had some issues syncing between different games loading up and menus with the 360, but it was stable once I was in most older DLC games I tried. NES had no issues at all.

IMG_20190307_085204177.jpg

IMG_20190307_082607951.jpg

20879.jpeg
 

ginoscope

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I like that it would be perfect to play Super Game boy games on the SNES. The pixels all look super sharp too.
 
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