Consolizing a 2 slots

malignantpoodle

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Grab the sync from the RIGHT side of the resistor, on each, see what happens.

Power on the unit with the sync wire detached. Put the wire on each resistor (100 then 470) and see if the image clears up.
 

Xian Xi

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Don't put it on the 470ohm as it's tied to 5v on one side.
 

Akille68

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I checked both 100 and 470 res. left pins and both are connected to the corresponding jamma pin, so I could not imagine how this could turn things better...but i will try left pin on 470 too and will see.

About the audio: if some caps are not working properly, should i lose signal in headphones too or they effect only on amplified sound?

Thank u guys!
 
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GohanX

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Caps can affect the headphone out as well. I just fixed one that had really low right speaker volume through the headphone jack. Have you tried plugging up regular headphones to the jacks to see if you get anything?
 

Akille68

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@Xian, my bad, no you didn't. My mistake. It was late night and my two working neurons were going to sleep. Btw I followed your instructions about tapping pot.

@Gohanx I tried both headpone plug and they work well, just no sound from TV.
 
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Xian Xi

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You can try tapping sync directly from the source, LSPC2 pin 150 or Neo-IO pin 22, probably easier to solder there than the LSPC.
 

Akille68

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Ok. I tried everything with no results at all. I think I could teach this sh***y thing to fly very soon.
I connected sync to 470 left pin, to jamma P, to Neo-Io pin 22 and nothing. Still no audio and video rolling.
Here are some shots of my connection:
While it was connected to Neo-io pin 22, (I found a solder point near it - continuity check ok).

dscn0109g.jpg


My scart connections:





Pin 16 on scart measures 1,41 v. That should be correct .

Something wrong here? If so I am not able to see it...
 
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Xian Xi

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That's pin 23. Pin 20 is the corner pin with the big solder pad. If you are soldering to a via, it's better to solder to the leg of the chip as a via isn't always reliable unless the wire is inside it.
 

Xian Xi

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Also check if pin 22 is connected to LSPC2 pin 150.
 

Akille68

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Xian, that tapping spot is in front at the 23 pin but is connected to the 22, checked out continuity and is ok. I tapped temporary sync from there to not mess with the chip, when and if problem will be solved i will make a better soldering. Also, I will check connection between the pins you mentioned and will let you know. I think that there is something wrong with my scart, because in a Sony trinitron I have only a black screen. That make me hope things could turn to the right way.
 
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Akille68

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Yes I did. It has a 1k linear pot on. Also i tried with a 1 k resistor instead of the pot with no results.
 

fremen

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Hi,

You need at least a 5K resistor or pot in the sync line, some times 1K isn't enough.

Saludos
 

Akille68

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OK, I made some tests with multimeter on LSPC pin 150 Neo-IO pin 22 and Pin 23 on Neo I/O.
First of all I removed the wire to see if there were shorts, but everything was in order.
I found out that pin 22 on NEO I/O has no continuity with pin 150 on LSPC, but Pin 23 has it.
Also I found out that LSPC has a good solder point where you can easily tap sync.
Both my two MV2 has those connections, I crossed checked them to see if I had messed something with.

I made more tests on the Sony Trinitron and now could hear audio, very very low but it is all there with stereo sound. With headphone volume slide at max sound is too low...maybe it could depend on my TV loudspeakers, but I would like to amplify it, maybe there are alternative tap sources where audio is a bit stronger? maybe the speaker line?

@ Fremen I had a 10K linear pot and tried it also, but not solved the problem.

Here are some shots of the chips and connections:

NEO I/O chip with my last solder point in front of pin 23 but connected to pin 22. As I told I removed the wire to see if there were shorts but not evidences of damage were found, both my MV2 works in the same way. Only pin 23 iis connected with pin 150 on LSPC:





The LSPC 150 pin, that is connected to the pin 23 of NEO GEO I/O, also it indicates a good solder point of pin 150.
 
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Akille68

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Here are some other shots of the my mod, maybe this could help to find out my problem:

1) I decided to tap audio from headphone plug contacts, made n.2 5V bridge points, an original one, followed by a second one in hope to solve the audio problem; tapped coin1 coin 2 and test near the jamma edge.
I will add a fuse holder on 5v line with a fast 3A fuse, you can see it on the upper side of this shot. At the end I will add some adhesive wire retainers and will remove the black tape.



Mounted n. 3 500 ohm pots for RGB and n.1 1K linear pot for Sync. Connected in this way (from a frontal view), line in center pin, line out left pin, right pin ground, all the grounds are connected each other and end to end to the scart pin 6 and to the motherboard. RGB works well (turning clockwise signal increases).





Battery mounted reverted for an easier removing


Specific primer on allu cover:


Red paint (chosen after a long and hard fight of my kids)


Today I got stickers delivered, so I could start to spray clear paint (I think matt) but have to solve the video problem before spending more time with this damn b++ch. :very_ang:

A friend of mine gave me some nice foils (5mm width) of plexiglass, but this step looks so far from here now... :blow_top:

This mobo is a gift from a dear friend (with a CPS2 and two games) for my two kids and there will not be a deep enough place to hide myself if I will not reach my goal... :hammer:
 
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Xian Xi

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Dammit, forgot you have an MV2, the sync on the LSPC-A0 is on pin 126. See if you can trace where it goes.

Should go like this:

MV2 Sync Path

LSPC A0 (pin 126)
|
|
74LS86 (pin 12)
|
|
74LS86 (pin 11)
|
|
100 ohm resistor----470 ohm---VCC
|
|
Jamma pin P

MV2F Sync Path (more direct path):

LSPC2 A2 (pin 150)
|
|
Neo-IO (pin 22)
-->Neo-IO (pin 24)
|
|
100 ohm resistor----470 ohm---VCC
|
|
Jamma pin P
 
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Fortune

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I made more tests on the Sony Trinitron and now could hear audio, very very low but it is all there with stereo sound. With headphone volume slide at max sound is too low...maybe it could depend on my TV loudspeakers, but I would like to amplify it, maybe there are alternative tap sources where audio is a bit stronger? maybe the speaker line?

The speaker line will give you nada without 12v, and can too easily give you too much for a line-out with 12v.

The headphone jacks, where you appear to have tapped in the picture above, should be giving good strong audio. At least it does with an MV-2F, and I would assume the MV-2 is similar. If you are getting low audio levels, it would more likely be due to failing electrolytic capacitors.

If there is a notable difference between the audio sections, hopefully someone with personal experience consolizing the MV-2 in particular will be able to correct me. :scratch:
 

Xian Xi

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The speaker line will give you nada without 12v, and can too easily give you too much for a line-out with 12v.

The headphone jacks, where you appear to have tapped in the picture above, should be giving good strong audio. At least it does with an MV-2F, and I would assume the MV-2 is similar. If you are getting low audio levels, it would more likely be due to failing electrolytic capacitors.

If there is a notable difference between the audio sections, hopefully someone with personal experience consolizing the MV-2 in particular will be able to correct me. :scratch:

As long as the power supply is producing at least 9v on the 12v line you will get audio. Most +12v line reads are about 10.5-10.8v.
 

Akille68

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As long as the power supply is producing at least 9v on the 12v line you will get audio. Most +12v line reads are about 10.5-10.8v.

Maybe I did not understand well, you're saying that I could try to tap audio signal from there, right? If, so where are the tap point?
 

Xian Xi

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Maybe I did not understand well, you're saying that I could try to tap audio signal from there, right? If, so where are the tap point?

No, that was referring to the sound amplification.

If you did the +5v mod then you can tap it from the headphone jack.
 

Akille68

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Today I tried out a 5K ohm pot. Nothing. Xian I did not find the chips you indicated, btw I tapped sync again to the 100 ohm res. Left leg.
 

Akille68

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I was convinced that, as the stupid man does, I was looking at the finger, not at the moon. I was desperately messing up with the sync connecton with no results!! So, the last week end I leaved the MV2 alone and studied Scart connections and the connection diagrams found over the net and told me: "Luke! Use the Force!" or something like this...

Also I remembered that during my tests turning the sync pot I heard a buzz sound moving from right to the left loudspeaker. Even if I did not the reason I understood that my MV2 was not transmitting a signal, but receiving it.

Finally, I discovered that the following diagrams are completely wrong. They all clearly indicate pin 20 as sync connection and pins 4 - 6 for the audio ones.
Here they are:





Scart is a "two ways" connection system, studying the following Scart diagram I discovered that pin 20 is not "Sync out" but "Sync in" and 2 - 6 pins are not "R & L audio out", but "R & L audio in". R and L audio out are pin 1 and 3 on the Scart. In that way my MV2 was not trasmitting, but trying to receive somthing from the TV, and the low audio was just a ghost signal.



So i changed the connections accordingly and tadaaaaa!



Video signal is strong and steady, audio also is strong with volume trimmer at 1/2...
My honour is safe, but I have lost many hours trying to solve the problem. So, to all UE guys, connect sync to 19 pin on female mount panel scart on your machine and audio channel to 1 (R) and 3 (L) pins...
To complete my assertions, scart cable gets signal from pin 19 and transmits it to the pin 20 on the TV, same thing for the audio channels.
 
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xsq

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congrats on finishing this project! I've been reading this thread almost daily and was kinda worried you'd not make it --- but you prevailed ;) and also due to the awesome help from everyone here, respect to all of you. For what it's worth, I learned a ton from this thread.

Have fun playing. Will we get to see some nice pictures of the fully assembled CMVS?
 
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