Consolizing a 2 slots

[malignantpoodle]

I do always have some way to add coins. There are a couple of games out there that play differently or are limited in free play mode.

Also, games like Vliner and Jockey Grandprix will only add credits if they are coming from the coin chute (freeplay and test buttons won't work). As such, it's always good to have some way to add coins even if it's rarely if ever used.

 

[GohanX]

You can get to the test and service menus through the unibios, although having dedicated buttons is handy.

 

[Akille68]

I do always have some way to add coins. There are a couple of games out there that play differently or are limited in free play mode.

Also, games like Vliner and Jockey Grandprix will only add credits if they are coming from the coin chute (freeplay and test buttons won't work). As such, it's always good to have some way to add coins even if it's rarely if ever used.

Does not Unibios map coin on joystick "select" button?

 

[Akille68]

You can get to the test and service menus through the unibios, although having dedicated buttons is handy.

Sorry we posted at the same time. I would like to have test and service...but which kind of buttons. I read somewhere that for test an on/off button should work well, and mom. On/off for test. Right?

 

[malignantpoodle]

Does not Unibios map coin on joystick "select" button?

Yes but I believe only if you have one cart playing. If you have two carts it functions like a select game button.

edit; also bear in mind that some people will use custom made controllers and may not have select on them. Something to consider if you were selling it or something.

 

[max-ng]

All are momentary - you don't really need service this just coins up P1 and P2 together, test is on the UB having said that on my 4 slot I did wire them all as I use it as a supergun too - just wired a small piece of board with some tiny PCB mount switches, one gnd back to the edge connector together with the 4 lines to coin 1, coin 2, test and service. Will post a pic tomorrow.

 

[max-ng]

Here a scrappy pic, don't laugh, not up to the same standard as my fully consolized 2 slot in link in my earlier post and bits kind of got added to this franken-harness as time went on but it works a dream...

Bottom to top is DIN to Scart, 3.5mm jack to headphone or amp, 3 pin XLR to power supply, small board with mini momentary switches for coins etc as above, pots for RGB, also has a DB 15 for the NG joystick when used with Jamma boards, the quick connects with white labels are for when the sound needs switching for the differences with MVS vs Jamma. The DIN for AV and the XLR connector for power match those on my consolized 2 slot so the same power supply and Scart cable can be used with both.

Switches and board:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250418796241?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110525242393?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649



I just finally got round to adding coin ins to the controller itself but that was a real PITA to work out due to unforseen issues: http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...add-coin-in-buttons-to-controller.&highlight=

 

[Akille68]

Here a scrappy pic, don't laugh, not up to the same standard as my fully consolized 2 slot in link in my earlier post and bits kind of got added to this harness as time went on but it works a dream...

Bottom to top is DIN to Scart, 3.5mm jack to headphone or amp, 3 pin XLR to power supply, small board with mini momentary switches for coins etc as above, pots for RGB, also has a DB 15 for the NG joystick when used with Jamma boards, the quick connects with white labels are for when the sound needs switching for the differences with MVS vs Jamma. The DIN for AV and the XLR connector for power match those on my consolized 2 slot so the same power supply and Scart cable can be used with both.

Switches and board:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250418796241?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110525242393?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649



I just finally got round to adding coin ins to the controller itself but that was a real PITA to work out due to unforseen issues: http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...add-coin-in-buttons-to-controller.&highlight=

It is a proven fact that we are not normal and that ours is an insane variable of the world of retrogaming.
That said I love these works, sinked in wires, hot glue and buttons! I love smell of fresh tin at the early morning!
Thank You for your shopping hints, I saw your 3d some days ago and convinced me to buy a Unibit set. I think that to amortize all these costs I should produce and sell not less than 5 machines!

 

[max-ng]

I was a bit confused by all that stuff you had on page one about disconnecting resistors and fiddling with other parts of the board and complicating things - no mods or whatever are needed to the board for RGB output. Just:

1). Replace the onboard battery as a matter of course.
2). Get a PC ATX power supply and take ground, 5v and 12v to the board.
3). Connect all your wires to the solder points shown *above* the edge connector (never solder directly to the edge connector). Very few needed for EU RGB output and a Unibios, so: R, G, B, sync, ground, audio L and R, go to the Scart lead. Then you need a coin 1 and 2 board as per last few posts. You *may* need to run 5v and a resistor to the Scart if your TV will not accept RGB switching by jumping the sync voltage to pin 16 as per the other link in my post above somewhere.

Solder points on second pic here:

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...ized-my-MVS.&p=2880940&viewfull=1#post2880940

I never did post last pics on that topic of mine finished but here you can see the base, the top is still unpainted as I like the industrial look but may paint it if I ever sell it.

 

[Akille68]

Sweet machine! I decided for the 5 volt mod 'cause it is more user friendly, I have two kids and a PC psu could be dangerous. Do you know if there are other connection points to the coin 1 and 2, test and service. The one you chose are a bit too little for my soldering skill...

 

[Xian Xi]

If you plan to put in a unibios test and service isn't needed since they can be accessed in the menu.

 

[Akille68]

If you plan to put in a unibios test and service isn't needed since they can be accessed in the menu.

My mobo already has a ub 3.0 on, but I would like to cover all the options and be free to get back to the original one.
So, I guess there are not other points to wire them...

 

[max-ng]

Check with a meter to trace back and see but those are the obvious and neatest points - just use a fine soldering iron and some patience!

BTW once you have used a Unibios you would never go back to the old one.....

 

[malignantpoodle]

BTW once you have used a Unibios you would never go back to the old one.....

This is so true.

Believe it or not my favorite feature of the uni is the soft reset. I don't like turning an arcade machine on and off to reset it so it's nice to use the uni. I have a brand new tri mode monitor in one of my machines to the tune of $600 and turning the cab on and off to reset games and the like is not something I'm big on. The uni is an absolute must have even if that was all it did.

 

[Akille68]

Hi folks,
Think we have a problem here. I've just connected L and R wires to the headphone contacts, following the pictures found on Max-ng 3d. Nice and clean solderings. Then I made a continuity test with 10 and L pins on Jamma edge and no beep came out...no connection. I tried the other free and unmessed with headphone plug and non connection at all...Is it normal or there is something wrong with my audio?

 

[Fortune]

Hi folks,
Think we have a problem here. I've just connected L and R wires to the headphone contacts, following the pictures found on Max-ng 3d. Nice and clean solderings. Then I made a continuity test with 10 and L pins on Jamma edge and no beep came out...no connection. I tried the other free and unmessed with headphone plug and non connection at all...Is it normal or there is something wrong with my audio?

The headphone circuit is separate from the Jamma speaker connections. You won't get continuity between the two.

 

[malignantpoodle]

There better be pics or a video when you're finished with this Akille68 :/

 

[Akille68]

The headphone circuit is separate from the Jamma speaker connections. You won't get continuity between the two.

Fortune, You saved my week end. They made my lose an hour to make crossed check...I connected a 3,5 male plug in the socket and solderings were ok, so started to worry about my Slotty health...

 

[Akille68]

There better be pics or a video when you're finished with this Akille68 :/

Lol, I 've just signed for a 4 hours documetary on National Geographic Channel, soon on air...

 

[Akille68]

Hello,
Here I am again, with other problems...
Today I made some audio/video tests and results were awful.
No audio at all and video is rolling furiously on a TV and on a CRT Sony Trinitron just a black screen. I am not able to understand what is wrong with this mobo (or with my mod), I made all the conections and tested them...
Here are some shots:

Video on an old CRT TV:




I added three RGB 500 ohm pots and works well, all the ground of the pots (including sinc pot) are linked togheter (continuity ok) and one side of the ground goes to the mobo gnd and the other to the scart pin 6. On the scart all the grounds are connected and there are no shorts. I think that the problem is the sinc. I tried everything, added a 1K pot, removed it and add a 1K resistor in series on sinc line but nothing, video rolls and turning pot have no effects at all. Continuity tests are ok, RGB channels works well.
As I said, on scart I linked all the grounds and connected mobo ground to Pin 6, 5V on pin 8 and bridged pins 8 and 16 with a 180 ohm resistor (auto selection of AV channel works), then RGB on each proper pin, sinc connected (continuity ok with the 100 omh resistor on the mobo). Did I forget something?

Audio is dead, headphones plugs works well, I tried them and sound is high and clear with headset, but no sound from the TV. Again I made a continuity test from the solder points on the mobo to the scart and connections are ok, channel are not inverted....

Here is a shot of scart connections, At the start it was clean, but after so many tries it is a bit rough, but there are no shorts, I protected every exposed pin (especially rgb that are near each ground and copper wire could touch them) with shrinkable covers and every connection is working. I will clean it after problems will be solved.


I need Your help....

 

[Akille68]

... Forgot to mention that I tried 3 PSU and nothing changed, I tried also to change 1k sinc pot with a 500 ohm pot...no way...

 

[malignantpoodle]

The sync needs to be connected to the 100 ohm resistor above the RGB resistors. If it is, then try connecting it to the 470 ohm instead.

Make sure your encoder supports PAL if you're using a PAL TV.

As far as no sound... don't know. will need to see your wiring. Sometimes when some sets however don't display an image properly they won't produce sound. I've run into that one time.

 

[Akille68]

The sync needs to be connected to the 100 ohm resistor above the RGB resistors. If it is, then try connecting it to the 470 ohm instead.

Make sure your encoder supports PAL if you're using a PAL TV.

As far as no sound... don't know. will need to see your wiring. Sometimes when some sets however don't display an image properly they won't produce sound. I've run into that one time.

Yes, I connected sinc to the left pin of the 100 ohm resistor above the RGB ones...There is a shot with soldering points on this 3d. I will try the 470 ohm too. Audio connections are just two wires connected from the headphone straight to the scart...continuity is ok...maybe some caps dooes not work well...but with caps not working should I hear sound in headphones as I do?
I have no encoder, RGB works well here in UE.

 

[Xian Xi]

You can try tapping RGB from where I said. Either that or the scart is wired wrong or you got a dirty sync.

 

[Akille68]

You can try tapping RGB from where I said. Either that or the scart is wired wrong or you got a dirty sync.

Xian, i did that, I tapped rgb from 8,2k resistors and sync on left pin of 100 ohm up above res.. What you mean for dirty sync?