My arcade stick - What do you think?

[Xenepp]

A few weeks ago I set about constructing an "all-in-one" supergun built into a joystick. I got my artwork ready and drew up my plans but once I got the thing built, I quickly realised there'd just be no room to add power supply and stuff so I just made a nice little MAME/Xbox 360 Joystick and honestly, I'm pretty pleased with the results.

This is how it looked halfway through with it's temp overlay for drilling:

And this is how it looks now, 99.9% done:

It's amazing how much difference a bit of laminate and some T-Molding make!

The LEDs on the front represent the Xbox player lights 1-4, on the right hand side there is the Xbox menu button and on the left hand side you have the back/coin button. The rubber feet are a must! This thing weighs a bit but it all adds to the feel.

Best of all, when you plug it into a PC, it tells you it's an Arcade Stick since this used to be one of those Mad Catz jobbies

Since 360 pads are USB windows supports this without drivers and works great with MAME and anything else you can configure buttons for. It also works right off the bat on the 360.

To finish it off I'm going to add Neo Geo a port to the back to make it compatable with other 'guns and Neos and a USB port so the lead can be removed for storage. I also just have to touch up the egdes with colorfill. Don't have to but it'd be rude not to.

Next I'm going to start on my twin version of this and build a SG into it (since there will be more room this time) with a different funky colour scheme. That is of course, if it ever stops raining!!

-Joel

 

[Takumaji]

Wrong forum.

That said, I like the wooden case and the finish, good job there.

What stick/buttons did you use?

 

[Xenepp]

Yeah I noticed it was moved, sorry about that.

The stick is a Happ ultimate and the buttons are Happ Competition buttons.

I'd like to fabricate an aluminium enclosure at some point for Sanwa controls but that's a way off I think.

-Joel

 

[DeadPixels]

Great work, that stick looks fantastic. Though I'm not the biggest KI fan, that overlay looks great and matches the stick perfectly.

 

[Electric Grave]

Excellent work!

There are ways to make the plexi have no need for screws on top, I use to do it with screws on top, but now with no crews is pretty nice and not hard to do at all.

Trust me, it makes a hughe difference.

 

[BanishingFlatsAC]

I digg the midway cab style red t molding!

Nice job man!

-DZ

 

[SSS]

besides the shit choice for a joystick, good job.

 

[cannonball]

Nice job man! That's pretty sweet looking.

 

[Xenepp]

Thanks for the kind comments guys

There are ways to make the plexi have no need for screws on top

I'd like to do that but if I did, I'd have no way to access the inside since the rest of the stick is sealed in Laminate. For future reference (since I'll be working on a UMK3 stick soon too) how do you go about that?

besides the shit choice for a joystick

That's probably another future upgrade. Happ parts are not the best quality, though for years I thought they were.. They were all I could grab at the time. What would you recommend?

I've started on another joy overlay too.. I'll be up to my armpits in arcade sticks at this rate!

-Joel

 

[SSS]

without going to a sanwa, the happ supers are MUCH better joysticks.

 

[Electric Grave]

Happs is the best for me. I love Sanwa and I like some simitsu stuff, but Happs Super Joystick is by far the best stick for me.

I hear what you're saying about the base, 'cause I used to do them the same way, in other words with top access, but the best thing to do is to have the frame be a bottom access and fix the top wood to the frame and just do the bottom access recesed so it doesn't take more of your cleareance.

Let me see...

Screws on top

Top access

Screws beneath the plexi

Plexi bottom for access, but if you preffer you can use wood.

No screws whatsoever on the CP

Note: I don't mean to show the same shit over and over again, but these are the only pics I have handy as examples, plus they do say a pic is worth a 1000 words.

 

[Cavalry]

Oh dude, that KI stick is niceness! My favorite arcade game of all time.

 

[SSS]

Happ's ultimates are actually their bottom of the barrel shit sticks. somewhat confusing if you go by the name, but price is what you need to look at.

Supers>Competitions>Ultimates

the ultimates and competitions are fairly close in design, but the competitions have a nicer spring. Supers use a cylindrical contact shaft and microswitches with the extended actuating arms instead of a square block between the switches. much smoother feel.

 

[Lime2K]

I actually prefer the Competitions myself, for some reason. I wholeheartedly agree that the ultimates are ass, though.

--> Electricgrave

Without the screws going through the plexi, the only thing holding it in place are the edges of the sides, the buttons, and the joustick ring, correct?

Also, do you use a router for those nice edges, or is it sanded by hand?

 

[loegan43]

Your stick looks awesome. AND I can't say enough about how freakin' awesome Electricgrave's sticks are. True works of art.

 

[Xenepp]

Looks like I will be getting hold of some Happ Supers then. Yes, the names of these are very misleading!

electricgrave > Those are some nice looking sticks! Your wiring is also far neater than mine..

I'll look into the plexi mounting, though top access is quite nice as it can be disassembled on a desk rather than your lap

I may actually route out the stick/buttons section of the top for my next stick and mount a sheet of aluminium so I can use my Sanwa sticks and buttons.

-Joel

 

[Electric Grave]

Thanks for the comments. I'm allways fond of new creative faces in the NG Forums 'cause is a nice change of pace for all the dickstains and just plain retarded people that tend to overrun this place.

I'm a very big fan of the intermediate american era of arcade gaming and the hardware that came along with it. I'm also extremely pleased to hear more people mention that the Super stick is a much better stick than the competition, and just pretty much any other stick in the industry.

As far as aluminum and sanwa go; You don't have to use aluminum if you can use a router and can recess the buttons and stick. Sanwa is great, but I can't help but feel constricted while playing with japanese hardware, I love Happs above all 'cause the sense or freedom you get with the Supers and the COmpetition buttons, although I do enjoy the concave buttons with a well laid button set up.

BTW, to all the Happs fans; Chad @ Lizardlick.com has industries Lorenxo parts which parted ways with Happs, so be on the know, apparently Suzo is now in cohoots with Happs and a new molder.

 

[Xenepp]

I'm a very big fan of the intermediate american era of arcade gaming and the hardware that came along with it.

I am also since it's basically what I grew up on. We didn't see much of the Japanese style hardware where I am, even the Mega-Lo machines I've seen were retro-fitted with Western sticks (these were not just the bat-top Sanwa type either) but I have to say, I've taken a liking to the ball tops. It's just nice to have a selection to choose from depending on your mood I think. I seem to be able to control shooters easier with them too.

You don't have to use aluminum if you can use a router and can recess the buttons and stick

I thought about that breifly but decided since I have some aluminium handy I may as well just use that for piece of mind, plus it'd be just as easy really. (I'm the kind of person who just has sheet aluminium "hanging about" )

-Joel

 

[Electric Grave]

I am also since it's basically what I grew up on. We didn't see much of the Japanese style hardware where I am, even the Mega-Lo machines I've seen were retro-fitted with Western sticks (these were not just the bat-top Sanwa type either) but I have to say, I've taken a liking to the ball tops. It's just nice to have a selection to choose from depending on your mood I think. I seem to be able to control shooters easier with them too.



I thought about that breifly but decided since I have some aluminium handy I may as well just use that for piece of mind, plus it'd be just as easy really. (I'm the kind of person who just has sheet aluminium "hanging about" )

-Joel

16 gauge is the only way to fly anything thinner than that isto flimsy at less you reinforce the bottom with wood panes or something like it.

I like to have options as well, thus having different cabs with different set ups. I do have to agree with the shooters comment, but only a little bit, 'cause of the light spring.

 

[Xenepp]

I'll be using 2mm, plenty sturdy enough. It'll only be where the stick and buttons are anyway, routed into the 3/4" wood.

Looks like I might get a chance to start on this today should the rain stay away!

-Joel