Help Starting - 2 Slot Cabinet

BilboBaggins

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Hey Everybody,

Have had a red 2-slot cabinet since last Fall and am just getting around to opening it up and getting into restoring it, but I need help starting.

Questions:

1) The back panel is stapled shut, so I can't access the monitor area. Any thoughts on the best way to bust that open while limiting damage and not shocking myself?

2) To that point of safety... once I gain access - what precautions other than discharging the monitor do I need to take for my safety? Do I need anti-electricity gloves etc.?

3) How difficult is troubleshooting these old monitors? Something a newb could learn? I'd rather get it fixed and keep than replace with a flat screen.

4) Anything else I need to know to do or to absolutely not do if my goals are to: gut everything, restore the cab, fix the monitor, and then put all the tech back in?

Thanks!!!
 

DaisyAge

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1) Staple puller or needle nose pliers
2) Watch videos on discharging tubes and then attempt it, grounded screwdriver works but you risk breaking the anode cap, Sony has recommended a different way in their CRT service manuals so you could try that (I was never able to get the cap out this way plus it feels riskier) and rubber gloves is a good idea as well
3) Not super hard as long as you're willing to put in the effort to read about crt monitors. You can describe any symptoms you're having in this thread and I'll come back to help out
4) Do NOT remove the monitor alone, you're asking for trouble. They're heavy and a bit delicate and hard as hell to replace. I would suggest leaving it in the cab if possible. Take pictures of everything so that it all gets hooked up properly when you're finished. Check you arcade power supply or ditch it and buy a new one. There are threads with recommendations on the forums. What exactly are you trying to restore? Some picture might help me guide you on some restoration techniques.
Good luck!
 

BilboBaggins

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Awesome thanks for your reply. Are there specific types of rubber gloves I should get? After discharging, are there still parts of the monitor that shouldn't be touched?

The monitor works it just has centering issues and now the colors are faded out.

I'd like to do the following:

1. Remove guts (mvs boards, wires, monitor, power supply etc.)
2. Restore and repaint cab. It's chipped in places and was sloppily painted black.
3. Fix some broken controls and odds and ends.
4. Fix monitor.

One place I might start is the battery on the mvs. Already have the boards out.

Will send some pics. Thanks again.

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DaisyAge

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Anything thick and made for insulating, lineman rubber gloves specifically.
If there is a board (not the neckboard) with a section labelled 'HOT' be wary of the components in that area. That usually means those components will hold lots of power for an extended amount of time and you could give yourself a good shock on em if you're not careful.
Restoring the chips in the wood I'd probably use bondo or the like of it and sand the whole cab down. Then primer and paint, both good quality, unless you plan on using traditional vinyl on the sides instead.
Centering issues I'd address last and would definitely start with h and v pos. pots, but it might require a yoke adjustment if it was banged up. Faded colors could be a few things:
If the blacks are not true black then you're in luck because you just have to turn down contrast and that should restore the colors a bit. If not though I'd start with turning up the RGB gains and possibly recapping the monitor.
 

BilboBaggins

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Some pics.
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Digmac

Official NG Youngun
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Man, she needs some love. Looks like you have a good solid base for restoration though. Also, don’t paint it. Get a reproduction vinyl artwork set for it.
 

BilboBaggins

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Just did. Curious... how critical is it I get all the battery glue off? Not so easy to scrape up and some got on that 10K resistor. And is it ok if I wasn't able to get every bit of that rubber backing off? Q-tips left some lint as well... is there any risk that that will short anything out?

Going to install coin cell battery next.
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DaisyAge

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Try again with some high percentage rubbing alcohol but it'll be okay if it doesn't all come off
 

BilboBaggins

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Got the new battery installed. Properly I hope but the soldering was difficult.

Does any of you know how to test a new battery for continuity? I have a multimeter but am not sure where to test.

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BilboBaggins

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New battery. Wouldn't fit well on top so I installed on bottom.
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BilboBaggins

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Ok I think I have good continuity but the backup ram still does not work. Any thoughts on how to diagnose? It clears fine in test mode, allows me to reset date, but then will not persist after powering back on.

Also - do I want the main fuse button on service panel to be up or down? Confused how it works...

Thanks!

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EDIT*** - that's actually a test switch, not a fuse switch. Not sure how it works. In the up or down position, it doesn't seem to do anything.
 
Last edited:

DaisyAge

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Flipping the test switch while powered on should take you to the hardware test. To test continuity you need to find positions further down the board that are directly connected. Then you probe the prong of the battery holder and that position. If it beeps then you're good.
I saw your post in the mv1c battery drain thread, did you make sure the battery is connected properly? By that I mean the positive and negative are in the right spots? You did flip it upside down after all. From what I see your positive end is going to the ground (inside the circle on the top side)
Other than that, did you make sure the coin cell has power?
 

BilboBaggins

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Did I get it backwards? I thought that that was the positive side pointing the right direction. It is installed as shown in the pictures.

I tested for continuity on the battery side of the board with one terminal on either side of the battery connection and I was getting just under 3 volts. Where "further down" on the board would I go for a better test? Battery is brand-new and was giving me a solid read. My multimeter does not have a dedicated continuity setting so I was just reading on the 20 V setting.

That test switch does not do anything. To get to test mode I've been firing up the board without a game in any of the slots. How do I hook that switch up?

Thanks!!
 
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Did I get it backwards? I thought that that was the positive side pointing the right direction. It is installed as shown in the pictures.

I tested for continuity on the battery side of the board with one terminal on either side of the battery connection and I was getting just under 3 volts. Where "further down" on the board would I go for a better test? Battery is brand-new and was giving me a solid read. My multimeter does not have a dedicated continuity setting so I was just reading on the 20 V setting.

That test switch does not do anything. To get to test mode I've been firing up the board without a game in any of the slots. How do I hook that switch up?

Thanks!!
Does the power switch on that panel work? Make sure the cable coming from the back of that panel is actually connected.
 

BilboBaggins

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Test switch appears to be wired up. It all goes into that jamma harness right?

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BilboBaggins

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Battery works now - flipped it upside down. Guess I installed holder backwards.

For the test switch - do I need that first dip switch on for it to work? Or does the switch just need to be wired to the harness properly?

Thanks so much for all the help!!!

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DaisyAge

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Battery works now - flipped it upside down. Guess I installed holder backwards.

For the test switch - do I need that first dip switch on for it to work? Or does the switch just need to be wired to the harness properly?

Thanks so much for all the help!!!

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Ha! I thought as much about the battery, so at least now you'll have saves and a working calendar. As for the test switch make sure the switch connections go to ground and pin 15 of the JAMMA edge (should be on the top side of the board.
If you're curious, the service pin (R on the bottom side) is meant to be hooked up to a momentary button and should add 1 credit without adding it to the internal book keeping. Not at all necessary really and I've never wired mine up
 

BilboBaggins

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Awesome but shouldn't Test Switch go to M on MVS harness? Looks like mine is already going to 15 (light brown wire on Parts Side) but that's for Jamma - right?

Wondering if I have a Jamma harness added to an MVS cab? Or maybe I'm still confused...

Parts Side and Solder Side:


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shadowkn55

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Just use dip switch #1 and call it a day. That style connector requires crimping to add physical switch connections to it.
 

BilboBaggins

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Is it that hard?

Am I correct that it should be M and possibly I inherited a Jamma setup?

That dip switch isn't the most convenient thing to get to plus I want to figure this out. May end up getting a Unibios at some point though. Thank you.

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