Games that dont work without -5v

Xavier

Jaguar Ninja
I seen people asking this question alot and the answer is usually somthing like just a couple games like MK and NBA Jam. I think theres more games than that.
Heres a list of games that didnt work right on a neo-geo cab but do work ok on a standard jamma mono system with the -5v.

This list should be helpfull for people who havent moded there cab yet for mono and -5v and for people who get the small enclosed power supplies.

Mortal Kombat 3 no Sound may cause eprom erors in start up
Pit Fighter no sound
Rastan Saga no sound/glitches
Time Kilers sound vertical synch issue
Double Dragon 2 gr GLitches no sound
Raiden gr Glitches/sound
Gals Panic 2 no sound
Vball No sound
Double Dragon

Actually if you look theres a pattern, American made games and before mid 90's games.
 
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MottZilla

Timid Neo Newbie
I've primarily heard if you lack -5v some games sound hardware won't work. Alot of Midway games (Mortal Kombat, Killer Instinct, etc.) need -5v for the sound hardware and I've also heard CPS2 QSound (RCA jacks) needs it but regular Mono from the JAMMA harness doesn't. I don't think lacking -5v would cause a game not to work but it's possible I suppose. I think if you're concerned about it, or plan to play games you know require -5v or suspect they might you should use a better powersupply. I recommend using the easy to find PC ATX power supply. It's large but it will get the job done.
 

Monolith

Pleasure Goal
if you don't supply it and at the right amps Strata games including Time Killers will reboot over and over again.
 
Quick tip for beginners: Check pin 5 on both sides of the jamma edge connector. If the pins don't lead to anything, the board doesn't use -5v.

I recently added -5v to my supergun (as long as I was at it -- I was upgrading the power supply), but I temporarily disconnected it again when I realized that none of my boards use it.

Great idea for a thread. I was thinking of starting one of these myself, because I was wondering if I was ever going to need to reconnect that -5v line. It's nice to know I have the future capability if I need it, anyway.
 

Monolith

Pleasure Goal
Neo Alec said:
Quick tip for beginners: Check pin 5 on both sides of the jamma edge connector. If the pins don't lead to anything, the board doesn't use -5v.

I recently added -5v to my supergun (as long as I was at it -- I was upgrading the power supply), but I temporarily disconnected it again when I realized that none of my boards use it.

Great idea for a thread. I was thinking of starting one of these myself, because I was wondering if I was ever going to need to reconnect that -5v line. It's nice to know I have the future capability if I need it, anyway.

Sometimes on multi layer pcbs however in the middle layer the -5 volt line is carried,so you don't see it unless the pcb is thin enough to hold a light to and look through the top. This rarely ever happens,but it does and it sucks.
 

dark penguin

Jaguar Ninja
So I checked the pinouts for a bunch of jamma PCBS that I want, and some don't use the -5v, like Final Fight.
I'm wondering whether I can just plug and play some of these in my MV4F cab without too much of a problem?
Even with the PCB lacking the -5v, will there still be issues...I'm guessing
the stereo vs mono issue may still cause some problems?

Can anyone who has tried jamma PCBS that don't have the -5v lend some insight?

I've seen the -5v rewire project on hardmvs, but if the PCBs I want don't bother with the -5v to begin with, I won't need to bother with this, right?
 

68k

Banned
I can confirm this with my Ultimate MK3 board. I get jacked up sound and rolling video.

Any idea how I can get -5V with a supergun/SC200 setup?
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
68k said:
I can confirm this with my Ultimate MK3 board. I get jacked up sound and rolling video.

Any idea how I can get -5V with a supergun/SC200 setup?

The rolling video is from the vertical sync off the MK3 board which is 56khz and not 60khz and the sound is from the lack of -5v.

Is the SC200 just dual voltage switching?
 

dark penguin

Jaguar Ninja
OK, so I finally got my hands on a Final Fight PCB. I am happy to report it works beautifully in my MV4F cab without any rewiring done. No sound glitches whatsoever, which is what I was worried about. Well, none that I can tell anyway, and I was scrolling through the sound test in the test mode.

One thing I'm a little confused about though...where the hell is the volume adjustment on a CPS1 boardset?? This thing sounds great, but it's set to arcade-level volume. :D
 
dark penguin said:
One thing I'm a little confused about though...where the hell is the volume adjustment on a CPS1 boardset?? This thing sounds great, but it's set to arcade-level volume. :D
There should be a volume knob on the board.
 

Xavier

Jaguar Ninja
Huh guess it wont let you edit your post after a month or something.
Another game I found not working without -5v Bloodstorm, the sequal to time killers.
 

dark penguin

Jaguar Ninja
Neo Alec said:
There should be a volume knob on the board.

You'll have to excuse my ignorance with CPS-1 stuff, I'm not very familiar with these boardsets. I was guessing that it's the white dial on the bottom board sitting about an inch above the battery, labelled VRI...looks like it would take a philips head screwdriver. I read through the manual on the web, and it didn't say how to troubleshoot the volume level...I guess they figured arcade ops or techs would already know what the knob or switch looked like.

Er..sorry to derail this thread:D
 

channelmaniac

Mr Neo Fix-it
dark penguin said:
You'll have to excuse my ignorance with CPS-1 stuff, I'm not very familiar with these boardsets. I was guessing that it's the white dial on the bottom board sitting about an inch above the battery, labelled VRI...looks like it would take a philips head screwdriver. I read through the manual on the web, and it didn't say how to troubleshoot the volume level...I guess they figured arcade ops or techs would already know what the knob or switch looked like.

Er..sorry to derail this thread:D


Yup! That's it.

VR1 = Variable Resistor 1

You can turn it with your fingers too.

RJ
 

Xavier

Jaguar Ninja
Ataxx isnt even a jamma game... or anything remotely close most of these leland cinematronics had some weird pinouts.

Are you using a dedicated cab or did you make a converter for it. Id be interested to see what the converter looks like.
 

Xavier

Jaguar Ninja
Ataxx is a jamma game, with the proper adapter !

Turtleship no sound wo/-5v
Classic Konami games need -5v for sound
 

Pas

Camel Slug
Toki is another that needs -5v for sound...plays fine but you can barely make out audio as there is no amplification.
 

astrodan88

King's Dry Cleaner
if you don't supply it and at the right amps Strata games including Time Killers will reboot over and over again.

I am wondering if anyone has any info on the amps issue. Is the "correct" amps a factor with other games mentioned?
 

BLEAGH

Haomaru's Blade Shiner
You are gonna fry chips past 5.25v, I think it's you rig that's not pushing out 5v properly. You should never go passed 5.1v. Make sure you check it at the board not the PSU.

Here in a service bulletin I've come across it states that the 5v should be raised to 5.2v

GAME:
STREET FIGHTER THE MOVIE
SYMPTOMS:
EXTRA OR NO CREDITS.
LINES ON THE SCREEN.
GAMES RESET DURING PLAY
SOLUTION:
STREET FIGHTER THE MOVIE IS A NON CAPCOM ‘CPS’ SYSTEM. THIS SYSTEM REQUIRES A HIGHER VOLTAGE TO OPERATE AT ITS MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE.

VCC SHOULD BE SET AT 5.20 +/- .05VDC . THIS CAN BE CHECKED BY PLACING ONE LEAD OF YOUR METER AT THE NEGATIVE SIDE OF C106, AND THE OTHER LEAD ON F1.

On my board I have raised it to 5.2v at the PSU and this has stopped the game from resetting continuously. Any ideas what the C106 and F1 it mentions is referring to?
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
Yup, so dont go past 5.25v like I said.

C106 is either cap #106 or a part number of something on the board.
 

bobbyconover

Timid Neo Newbie
I can confirm that NBA Maximum Hangtime loses sound when missing -5, I had a Neo-Geo candy cab for years and it was the only PCB that didn't play properly in it.
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
Some boards I sold recently needed -5v and I didn't even know until people tried to play them without -5v on their SG or cabs.

Cadash - No Sound
China Gate - No Sound, Weird Picture

If you have an arcade PSU you have -5v most likely but it may not be hooked up. Also anyone with an SC200 or SC300 PSU doesn't have -5v as well.
 

MadTitan

Timid Neo Newbie
Does anyone know if Thunder Dragon is one of the PCBs that needs the -5v line? It has no volume on my Egret II and i'm not sure if it's a PCB issue or the jamma harness isn't wired for the voltage.
 
ThunderFox requires -5v for sound. It looks like the -5v wasn't hooked up in my Egret II at all so by hooking it up the game worked perfectly.
 
B

biotech

Guest
Question regarding power adapter for Super Convertor

I have a modded AES console with an adapter that says it is 10v output. In reading about the Super Convertor II that is used for MVS to AES conversion it states this:

SNK's NEO•GEO AES System's uses two type of AC Adapters,one uses 5V DC , the other uses 12V DC. The label on the AC Adapter indicates which voltage the system uses.
IF the output indicates "12V DC" ,then they can use the super AC adapter;
IF the output indicates "5V DC" , then there is NO need for the super AC adapter.

With my power saying 10v I am not sure if I need the extra power adapter to play all games.....can anyone help with this....Thanks
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
I have a modded AES console with an adapter that says it is 10v output. In reading about the Super Convertor II that is used for MVS to AES conversion it states this:

SNK's NEO•GEO AES System's uses two type of AC Adapters,one uses 5V DC , the other uses 12V DC. The label on the AC Adapter indicates which voltage the system uses.
IF the output indicates "12V DC" ,then they can use the super AC adapter;
IF the output indicates "5V DC" , then there is NO need for the super AC adapter.

With my power saying 10v I am not sure if I need the extra power adapter to play all games.....can anyone help with this....Thanks

Wrong place to post this but to answer your question, yes you do need the additional PSU. Your 10v PSU doesn't supply enough juice to power the AES and converter properly. You can however use a +9v supply with at least 1.6A, I prefer 2 amps. Negative tip polarity as well.
 

fighting mania

Zero's Tailor
add battletoads to that list ,no sound without the -5v

splatterhouse will keep resetting under 5.25 v and so will bloodstorm

i own a blast city cab and i have on 5.5v all the time and i havent fried any pcbs

partial pcb list :

age of heroes
bloodstorm
daraku tenshi
dungeon magic
hyper thlete
last apostle puppet show(yes it does exist)
pwer instinct
splatterhouse
 

Xavier

Jaguar Ninja
Yeah Id like to be able to update this thread so I can make a list on the first post, then we can verify. If a mod sees this before I ask please make it so.
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
You might as well use the wiki so you can keep updating it. That's exactly why I did it for the High score list.
 

Nightmare Tony

*Account control passed, on to Tony's family.Ex Ro
If you use a JAMMA adapter to an older board such as a Williams Defender or Joust/Robotron, you MUST use -5 volts or you fry all the RAM chips. Neoi Geo cabinets do not have the -5 volts wired in so you would need to add those in yourself.
 

mmsadda

Just buy my shit. Seriously. You can call me Susan
Sorry for the thread necromancy, but it's a sticky, so....

I have one cabinet that began life as JAMMA, and was half-assedly converted to Neo at some point. The wiring is missing the -5volt, but it is wired for mono sound. Case in point: With my Hyper 64 Rev 2 board, I set the power to Neo, but the sound to JAMMA.

Does this mean I can play some if not all JAMMA boards in this cabinet without an adaptor or any modification?

Also, does Blitz '99 require the -5v?
 

dexterro6010

Timid Neo Newbie
Forgive this question in this sticky, but maybe it will help others such as myself with the same problem. When using an adapter board to play jamma games in a 4 slot MVS, there is a hole in the adapter board labeled "-5v connect". Would I be correct in assuming I need to add a drop of solder in that hole to complete the -5v connection in the adapter board? Or is there a solder-free way (I doubt it) to compete said connection if that is what, in fact, needs to be done?

By the way, add Final Blow to the list. That board is one of the reasons I am here.

Thanks.
 

SetaSouji??

There Can be Only One
Most KONAMI boards use the -5v. Fuck, even the Bubble System uses the -5v (which the wiring is based off the SCRAMBLE wiring)
 

dexterro6010

Timid Neo Newbie
MVS doesn't use -5v.

I know; I wasn't very clear where I was going with that. Sorry.

I meant in order to get -5v to a jamma board placed in an MVS 4-slot, I know I would have to wire a -5v line from the power supply to the MVS harness. However, there's a hole in the jamma to MVS adapter board on the -5v trace part of the board. I was just wondering if said hole had to be soldered in order to complete the -5v current from the MVS harness to the -5v on the jamma board. The pictures below are of the hole I'm talking about. Thanks.

2-2.jpg


1-2.jpg
 
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