My Neo Geo MAS Arcade stick is acting up

recon_zero

Bub & Bob's Bubble Buddy
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This issue is brand new and it just starting doing it and it wont stop. Basically if I hit the A button:A: it is just like hitting :A: +:B: . The same is true if I hit the :B: button. AS you are aware, it is making gaming hard. In Fatal Fury I just keep jumping to and from the background. Last Blade is now unplayable as well as SSIV.

Help?


I know for a fact it is the controller and tested both ports on my AES, it is the MAS Stick for sure.

This is the unit in question.

P9200014.jpg



I can't use the other controller I am spoiled by the Arcade goodness.
 

recon_zero

Bub & Bob's Bubble Buddy
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yes I have, it has a universal ground for all 4 buttons and each wire is hhooked up fine as far as I can see.
 

zapatistab

Athena's Wardrobe Manager
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I've had goofy stuff like that happened to me but with Neo Hori Sticks. I think it's because they have PCB's. I had to re-wire and they worked fine. But lost the turbo function of course. I am assuming the MAS sticks do not have PCB's. If your other controller works fine, try disconnecting your wires (assuming they have quick disconnects) Start with the "A" button then do the "B" button. Of course test the buttons when the other is disconnected. If the buttons don't work correctly while the other is disconnected, then it could be your micro switches.

Personally I would change the micro switches without testing. New switches are cheap. That way you can rule them out or have a working stick.
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
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Did this stick work perfectly before or is this the first time using it? Also is the ground daisy chained or individual?
 

recon_zero

Bub & Bob's Bubble Buddy
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Xian Xi said:
Did this stick work perfectly before or is this the first time using it? Also is the ground daisy chained or individual?



The stick worked PERFECTLY and then it sat in a box for more then a year, then I finally dug it out and just realized after some time. I was playing games and the moves were weird, especially Fatal Fury 2 which just couldn't do any moves. I 1st realized it was an issue when I couldn't do the blood code for SS2 or SS4.

Anyway here is a video and some pics, enjoy :A: :B: :C: :D:

VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


PICS!!!!!!!!!!!
0225082210.jpg
0225082209.jpg

0225082208a.jpg
0225082208.jpg








I get switching out the switches, I have done that before on my BIG RED Cab, pictured here :) .
iwNDg3MTY5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE3D.jpg
iwNDg3MTk2NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE3D.jpg


But WHY would switching them do that? What has to go wrong with a micro switches where pushing one would be like pushing two? I was hoping to open up this sucker and seeing a simply wire hanging and just soldering it, but it is perfect as far as I can see.


Help?
 

JammaGuy

Previously I-d-o-s-k-8
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Posts
768
Probably a ground short out somewhere... it happens to the best of us.. I would complain if I bought it from the retail as well, because they make you pay out the ass for those sticks!!!

-idosk8
 

recon_zero

Bub & Bob's Bubble Buddy
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I was lucky and it came with my deal, really cheap too. How do I find the bad ground and how do I fix that? I get circuts but everything looks ok to me.:oh_no:
 

DanAdamKOF

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Terry Bogard! said:
I was lucky and it came with my deal, really cheap too. How do I find the bad ground and how do I fix that? I get circuts but everything looks ok to me.:oh_no:
Put a multimeter on continuity mode, and start narrowing down where the short is coming from by seeing if there's continuity where there shouldn't be any.
 

channelmaniac

Mr Neo Fix-it
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Nov 29, 2005
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Micro switches are made with real thin springy brass arms that typically have a half circle bend in them. They break at the bend point and can short closed.

When you find the short you may have to unsolder some wires to isolate it down to a specific switch.

RJ
 

taitai

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channelmaniac said:
Micro switches are made with real thin springy brass arms that typically have a half circle bend in them. They break at the bend point and can short closed.

When you find the short you may have to unsolder some wires to isolate it down to a specific switch.

RJ

Usually you get no resistance out of said button too.

I'd suggest REWIRING EVERYTHING. I've done some horrible wiring jobs but they'll never be on par with the hackjobs that MAS does.

(Solder? Really? Is the .09 cents for a QD just too much?)
 

channelmaniac

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taitai said:
Usually you get no resistance out of said button too.

I'd suggest REWIRING EVERYTHING. I've done some horrible wiring jobs but they'll never be on par with the hackjobs that MAS does.

(Solder? Really? Is the .09 cents for a QD just too much?)

But... no resistance would just be a button that isn't working... where a short would cause other issues like stuck buttons...

Boot without a cart and check the diagnostic screen for a stuck button. ;)
 

Electric Grave

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For Games.
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Is defenately not the microswitch as they are both reacting to the presses. Somehow the hots for A and B are crossed.

This could be cause the ground wire is exposed and the hot terminals are soldered over the microswitch spades, so perhaps this could be making unwanted contact? It wouldn't take much but a small bend for this to conflict.

Also make sure you check the end of the wires where the soldering is done, and make sure that each of this are completely clear of interfereance with another exposed piece of wire.

If you want I'll fix it for you for nothing, as long as you pay for the shipping or if it needs any parts which I don't think it will.

The other predicament could be at the 15pin soldering/crimp cups there could be some interfereance there, but I would leave that for last as it could turn into a pain in the ass if you are not meticulous.
 

recon_zero

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electricgrave said:
Is defenately not the microswitch as they are both reacting to the presses. Somehow the hots for A and B are crossed.

This could be cause the ground wire is exposed and the hot terminals are soldered over the microswitch spades, so perhaps this could be making unwanted contact? It wouldn't take much but a small bend for this to conflict.

Also make sure you check the end of the wires where the soldering is done, and make sure that each of this are completely clear of interfereance with another exposed piece of wire.

If you want I'll fix it for you for nothing, as long as you pay for the shipping or if it needs any parts which I don't think it will.

The other predicament could be at the 15pin soldering/crimp cups there could be some interfereance there, but I would leave that for last as it could turn into a pain in the ass if you are not meticulous.


WOW I may take you up. Not free though, what do you need? I got NES and SNES and N64 and XBOX and 360 and um SVC on the XBOX and well just many thingys. Help would be GREAT.
 
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