- Joined
- Jan 5, 2001
- Posts
- 18,070
Let me start by saying that the red stick is the first stick I ever built. I actually took the art from someone elses custom stick design, and just took a section of it and duplicated it to just give me my neo style barber shop pattern. Now that stick has a twin brother in blue. Unfortunately it has some plexi cracks, so I need to get a better sheet or redo it.. Here is the thing. The red one I made has all sanwa parts. So I decided with the blue one, to make it all seimitsu. I might switch my LS-32 to be a LS-40. I've actually cut the top plate with my router for a example of it.
The design is a simple slagcoin box enclosure. I made this enclosure out of some cheap wood I got at home depot/lowe's, which I cut with my mitre saw. This is your housing. The top part I got at lowe's as a large board, I had them cut these large boards to be 8x10. I might switch to MDF next time I make one.
The lexan acylic sheet over the top of the stick was not cut to size, it is purchased at a 8x10 size and is a exact match for the blank boards I had cut for my top panel. I drill my 30mm holes with a hole-saw and one 24mm hole where the stick mounts. I use this to align my joystick plate for tracing later, and this also serves as a hole for my router.
I simply lay the 8x10 lexan/plexi over the top board, I drill four holes into the corners. With this done, I screw what I have together, as it will be naturally aligned. Plexi screwed to wood... Then the fun begins. Since I precut the top board earlier with the 30mm holes, I can simply just place my hole saw into the holes by turning the mounted pieces over. Doing this lets them align perfectly. I use a small amount of water to lubricate it as I do this. I used vegetable oil originally, but it leeches like crazy and oils up your top art over time, so I prefer water now.
After that, it is good to sand the plexi holes as best you can. this strengthens the plexi also, as it leaves nearly invisible lines going in a particular direction, which means it has less of a chance of cracking when a button is switched.
Then you can just paint it.
The design is a simple slagcoin box enclosure. I made this enclosure out of some cheap wood I got at home depot/lowe's, which I cut with my mitre saw. This is your housing. The top part I got at lowe's as a large board, I had them cut these large boards to be 8x10. I might switch to MDF next time I make one.
The lexan acylic sheet over the top of the stick was not cut to size, it is purchased at a 8x10 size and is a exact match for the blank boards I had cut for my top panel. I drill my 30mm holes with a hole-saw and one 24mm hole where the stick mounts. I use this to align my joystick plate for tracing later, and this also serves as a hole for my router.
I simply lay the 8x10 lexan/plexi over the top board, I drill four holes into the corners. With this done, I screw what I have together, as it will be naturally aligned. Plexi screwed to wood... Then the fun begins. Since I precut the top board earlier with the 30mm holes, I can simply just place my hole saw into the holes by turning the mounted pieces over. Doing this lets them align perfectly. I use a small amount of water to lubricate it as I do this. I used vegetable oil originally, but it leeches like crazy and oils up your top art over time, so I prefer water now.
After that, it is good to sand the plexi holes as best you can. this strengthens the plexi also, as it leaves nearly invisible lines going in a particular direction, which means it has less of a chance of cracking when a button is switched.
Then you can just paint it.
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