MVS-4-25 Ver.1 GET!

TheBakachan

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For those who want a more detailed story, read my blog post about it.

The short of it is, I managed to buy a perfectly working 4-slot big red cab for $694 including freight delivery. My first arcade cabinet. :3

It also happens to be my first fully working multi-slot MVS board. I don't know why I've had such rotten luck with the blasted things, but there it is.

And here's the cabinet, in its new home.
cabinetcorner2.jpg


I replaced the controls, put locks in the coin door (And replaced the marquee holder lock so they're all keyed-alike.) and have so far replaced the T-molding on one side. The original PSU was dead, and the cabinet seemed to be relying completely on a little Peter Chou supply... Luckily, I had the exact model of supply sitting around from my MVS board test bench, and put that in there.

Of course, when the little supply was installed, they chopped the power connector off the end of the MVS wiring harness, so I had to do something about that. Good thing I bought wiring harness supplies a couple months back to make interchangeable MVS/Jamma harnesses for the loose control panel on my test bench... Only took a couple-few minutes to crimp new pins on all the wires and get it back to factory spec.

I'm most happy that the monitor is in STUNNINGLY good shape.

The cabinet itself has very very little cosmetic damage. A little of the MVS logo paint needs to be touched up, and there's a couple gouges in the red on one side that I need to mask somehow.

The minimarquee EL panels were dead, but that's pretty much a forgone conclusion at this point, right? Anyway, I'm working on a replacement LED solution.

I haven't taken the mobo out yet to examine it, mostly because it works and I don't want to do anything to change that, lol. But I really should check the battery and whatnot.

Everything else; MV-LED boards, coin mechs, headphone jacks, speakers, all work fine. I don't know about the card reader, since I don't have a card. But at this point, it wouldn't surprise me if it was fine, too.

Last Blade 2 looks really incredible on it. :3

If anyone has any tips or anything I should know about the care and feeding of MVS-tan (As the people in one of my IRC channels have come to call it.) I'd love to hear them. :D
 

kernow

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TheBakachan said:
If anyone has any tips or anything I should know about the care and feeding of MVS-tan (As the people in one of my IRC channels have come to call it.) I'd love to hear them. :D

oh hell not another one.

erm nice cab
 

TheBakachan

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oh hell not another one.

I'm not sure what that's supposed to mean, but I can guess, and you'll get no argument from me. ;| (I have a certain love-hate relationship with the cross-section of internet culture that surrounds me...)

To their credit, it took four whole days of me not shutting up about the cab before those around me started ribbing me about it... Of course, after three more, it moved from the 'MVS-tan' moniker to them calling the cabinet my new wife... *sigh*

Anyway, MASSIVE WALL OF TEXT INCOMING!

Something I didn't mention, it came with four games: Aero Fighters 2, King of Fighters '94, League Bowling, and World Heroes 2...which I already had. I had been sort of interested in getting a copy of League Bowling just because. :)

I haven't been running it in free-play, just because I like the change of pace and nostalgia that putting quarters in it represents compared to my single slot test bench I had dubbed the 'UNCABINET'. I must say, it makes one awesome piggybank. And the sound of a quarter going through the mech and landing in the coin bucket is quite satisfying, and something I haven't heard in nearly a decade. :D

I took the board out today to look it over and clean it a bit. Good news is, it still worked when I put it back in, lol. The GREAT news is, the battery isn't even looking old, let alone corroded; bright shiny tin all 'round, and good solder joints. So I probably don't have to worry about that anytime soon. In fact, whole damn thing looks new as anything, aside from the layer of baked-on dust...the cleaning of which has me in the ninth circle of sinus allergy hell for the rest of the day...

Had wanted to put some C-molding (Like you would use to finish the sharp edges on a window or fan hole cut in a PC case) on the cartridge slots in the cover so they don't scratch the carts, made the carts too tight when I tested one though. Took the opportunity to just put it around the edges of the cover instead, so I stop catching my damn hand on it while searching for the volume control.

I had bought a replacement isolation transformer when I picked up the other items, like lightbulbs for the coin door, new locks, etc. The original is starting to look sort of rusty, like the original PSU... Anyway, next time I have reason to climb in the back, such as when I go to hook the EL board dedicated +5v line back up for testing my replacement LED array solution, I'll probably replace it just in case.

I think I'd also like to put a Unibios in it, but I'm still sort of on the fence. I'd lose a little authenticity, but I'd gain a lot of functionality. There's also the matter of spending even more money, given that I spent $700 on the cab, $350 on more games for my collection (Granted, one of them, Last Blade 2, cost nearly half that all on its own...). and a little over a hundred in replacement parts and stuff to refurbish it.... Oh well, I'll worry about that later.

Does anyone have a PDF manual for the stock monitor? iirc, it's a WG 7100 series or something. Also, is there a fairly definitive post or article one might recommend that lists what (Even minor) monitor problems a cap kit or replacement flyback would fix? I've seen pages about installing capkits, but when they list stuff like that, it never seems like an exhaustive list. Luckily I don't think I'll be having to do that for a long time yet, but information is good.

Going to take new pictures of my carts, later. Now that I have my new camera. :3
 

Rocko

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I have to say, it looks really good. Please post more pics of the inside, mobo and so on. :)
 

kernow

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almost $175 on an LB2 MVS? .. bare cart?
 

Jag-Master

"Hey, are we done here?..., Cause I'm losing my bu
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I'm happy for you finally getting your first cab but, you really need to ask around and check out craigslist, this site, or local arcade auctions because spending almost $700.00 for a 4-slot is waaaaay too much man. As a heads up, (I'm not trying to hate) I just feel you could do much better for purchases in the future by exploring your options. Cabs are the best way to experience your love of games, and especially for the classics. :buttrock:
 

mmsadda

Just buy my shit. Seriously. You can call me Susan
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Agreed with Jag-Master and Kernow...

It's a very nice cabinet! And it looks like you're getting some great games! You really may do well to shop around more, though.

On the other hand, if you want a loose Galaxy Fight for $80.... *kehehe*
 

BobbyPeru

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Lovely looking cab.

If you're going to fix up your marquees, you might as well splurge and stick with the light panels instead of going LED. I think that will be my next project.

As a side note, I lucked out and got my Last Blade II for 1300 yen, which I think is about $15.
 

TheBakachan

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About $200 of the price of the cab was freight shipping, since I have no way to transport an arcade cabinet, and I got 8% cashback from the purchase. All in all, I was more than willing to spend it, since if I wanted to continue with my plan to build a cab from scratch, a new monitor and coin door would have cost nearly $500 shipped. (And I still wouldn't have a working 4-slot board, let alone all the wood to build the thing.) It was also an opportunity I didn't want to pass up. Cabinet in good condition + relatively close + will palletize and ship + have money. That last one is the biggy. Yay for tax refunds. :D And believe me, I've always got an eye on the local Craigslist... No luck, ever...not even for something to scavenge a 25" and a coin door from... Yeah, it wasn't cheap, for sure. But it was practical and worth it. :)

$135 for Last Blade 2. Great condition, too. fwiw, I usually never go above $50 for a game, so when I do it has to be something I want REALLY BAD and be EXACTLY the way I want it. (Within reason, since I'm not going to find a full Japanese kit for anything I could afford.) Which this certainly was. :)

GnK2_sm.jpg


@Loup-Garou: Yes. You are a lucky sod. But then, if I had a nickel for every time something I wanted was cheaper in Japan...well, I probably wouldn't have to worry about things like that. :P

As for the backlights, LEDs would be much cheaper to maintain and replace, use less power, generate almost no heat (And thus not cook the hell out of the MMs), produce better light, and not involve a high voltage ballast. The trick is diffusion, but I think I have that pretty well figured out. The solution I have in mind is a 100% drop-in replacement. It will use the EL inverter's +5v line, and the data lines from the mobo, to power and switch the LED arrays just like the original EL panels.
 

SNKorSWM

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It's hard to find deals on cabs here in New England area, as the shipping inadvertently all stems from NY or more southwards, congrats on finding one in top condition.

One of the perks on playing mvs is that the carts are generally much cheaper than the AES. So it's best to consult the price guide for the MVS games to get a general idea of the price range. Things on ebay can get overpriced from bidding wars even when the seller doesn't intent to overcharge, such as in this example.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250573096849&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
 

TheBakachan

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It's hard to find deals on cabs here in New England area, as the shipping inadvertently all stems from NY or more southwards, congrats on finding one in top condition.

One of the perks on playing mvs is that the carts are generally much cheaper than the AES. So it's best to consult the price guide for the MVS games to get a general idea of the price range. Things on ebay can get overpriced from bidding wars even when the seller doesn't intent to overcharge, such as in this example.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250573096849&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Thanks. :) Most of the time I see cabs on eBay, they're either in like California (And freight would probably cost twice what the cabinet does) or it's local pickup only, and the seller can't/won't make freight shipping accommodations.

Yeah, I've lost plenty of games because the bidding got out of hand and went over what I was willing to spend... Sniping sometimes helps. It never works to unreasonably pursue things though. A better/cheaper copy always turns up, or I'll miss the opportunity to get some other games I wanted because I blew all my spending money.

No regrets on the Last Blade 2 cart though, speaking of which, I finished the logo vector for my shockbox insert, so that ought to be up on my shelf soon...of course, the cart itself will probably seldom leave the cabinet, lol.

GnK2_logo.png


Need.....more.....shockboxes. D: I recently got a good half dozen of the black ones, and now three of the old red/white ones came with some recent cart acquisitions... At the very least, I want to box up my favorite series; Samurai Spirits, KoF, Metal Slug, and Last Blade...

Ah... A drug addiction would be so much cheaper. :(
 

kernow

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Someone ripped you fully on that LB2, be more careful in future.

I paid $50 for mine, a JP one is pretty common.
 

BobbyPeru

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That LED solution sounds pretty interesting.

I was thinking you were just going for one big backlight, like a lot of people do with a flourescent tube, but what you have in mind sounds great.
 

tigerstyle

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I can beat that. My 4 slot neogeo cab cost me 400$CAN, and the thing was untouched since 1992 in the arcade warehouse. The monitor is PERFECT. The thing was just..left alone there forever. The sides had scraches from having other cabs moved around it over the years, but yeah.

I couldnt believe my eyes when I booted it :lolz:

The cab had samurai showdown 1, baseball star 2, last resort and windjammer.
 

TheBakachan

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Someone ripped you fully on that LB2, be more careful in future.

You could certainly say that, yes. Or, you could operate under the assumption that I'm an adult male fully capable of evaluating and arriving at decisions on his own and instead say that someone profited greatly from my desire to attain what started out as a $10 auction item. (Which we have established that I knew from the outset I was paying too much for.)

I very seldom see it go up for sale. And I've been looking. Week or two ago there was an English-label copy that went for $46 that looked like someone's dog chewed on it. I could have gotten that one. But I didn't want it.

To put things in perspective, the night before I bought the game (My birthday), I spent $100 on pizza for everybody. Weighing that against getting one of the games at the very top of my list, in great condition, with the label I want, there was nothing to think about.

Could I have gotten it cheaper? Undoubtedly. I knew that much. But I wouldn't have serendipitously had the game in-hand scant hours before my cabinet arrived. And I've certainly made worse investments. (Though, as far as bad investments go, the pizzas were fantastic and nearly lasted three days despite half a dozen people constantly ninja'ing slices. :D)

I get that you are trying to help me though, and I appreciate it. I'm just sayin'.
 

NeoDragoN

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Yeah totally ripped on LB2 i only paid $60 for a mint jap one about 8 years ago.
 

TheBakachan

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That LED solution sounds pretty interesting.

I was thinking you were just going for one big backlight, like a lot of people do with a flourescent tube, but what you have in mind sounds great.

Yeah, while doing away with the EL is a high priority, maintaining functionality is even higher. If it turns out how I want, the cable to the inverter will plug into the board my board instead and it will just work, seamlessly.

I can beat that. My 4 slot neogeo cab cost me 400$CAN, and the thing was untouched since 1992 in the arcade warehouse. The monitor is PERFECT. The thing was just..left alone there forever. The sides had scraches from having other cabs moved around it over the years, but yeah.

I couldnt believe my eyes when I booted it :lolz:

The cab had samurai showdown 1, baseball star 2, last resort and windjammer.

Damn. That IS nice. :D I was floored that every single part of my cabinet was in far better shape than any individual components I've gotten, considering the cabinet had apparently still been on-location until recently, and all the parts I have had been out of circulation for a while.

Cleanest CP with no signs of repainting. (I have two loose CPs, another one from an MVS-4-25, and one from a 2-slot wood cab.) The EL boards look brand new. (Even though the panels didn't work...) Motherboard is in better working condition than anything but the newest 1-slot boards in my collection. I've got no other monitors to compare against, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with it, either. :D
 

Gentle Ben

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As for the backlights, LEDs would be much cheaper to maintain and replace, use less power, generate almost no heat (And thus not cook the hell out of the MMs), produce better light, and not involve a high voltage ballast. The trick is diffusion, but I think I have that pretty well figured out. The solution I have in mind is a 100% drop-in replacement. It will use the EL inverter's +5v line, and the data lines from the mobo, to power and switch the LED arrays just like the original EL panels.

Dude, you've GOTTA post instructions/pics when and if you figure that out. PLEASE!!! And don't listen to the naysayers about pricing. If it was worth it to YOU, that's all that counts.
:)
 

TheBakachan

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Dude, you've GOTTA post instructions/pics when and if you figure that out. PLEASE!!! And don't listen to the naysayers about pricing. If it was worth it to YOU, that's all that counts.
:)

Thanks.

And yeah, I've already gotten a couple PMs about instructions for the LED array boards. Once I get them designed, I plan to get a small run of boards produced (Given their size, I shouldn't end up with too many units from a single run at Gold Phoenix) and then release the schematics and stuff under some version of the Creative Commons license.
 

BobbyPeru

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It's seven or eight on the dipswitch (could be wrong about the number).
 
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