The bad battery thread

channelmaniac

Mr Neo Fix-it
Time for a reminder that everyone should check their NiCd batteries for leakage!

The solder joint should look nice and shiny and the end of the battery should look clean, like this:

Battery1pos.jpg


HOWEVER...

BOTH ends of the battery must be checked. If the Negative side looks like this:

Battery1neg.jpg


Then the battery MUST be replaced. Notice the fuzzy growth on the end of the battery? Is it dust? NO! The battery is leaking.

How can you tell it's not dust?

Easy. Look at the solder joint on the board. See all that crystalline fuzzy growth on it? THAT is from the leaking battery and is not dust. Compare that picture to the first one. Those are 2 pics from the same battery. BOTH solder joints should be clean and shiny.

This battery must be replaced. (and in this case was... this was a board fixed for a forum member)

If your board looks like this, then it may be too late to save:

Neo6SlotBattDamage.jpg


If you have pictures of leaking batteries on your game board, post them up for everyone to see. Sometimes the only clue of a leaking battery is a discoloration on traces near it, such as when a battery just starts to leak on a 4 slot board.

RJ
 
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Great post Kernow's dead DDP DOJ board saved my 4 slot MVS.

I hadn't thought of it in forever but got me to take it apart and look. I thought it was fine at first but once I got the battery out I could see some residue. I neutralized it with baking soda and cleaned it all up.

I left it out though because that is the extend of my skills. What would you charge me to do a proper battery mod on the board? I'd like one that doesn't hang out... and doesn't need to be charged or anything.

Thanks!
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
This is the one that was on a CMVS I bought, no wonder it was cheap. It still has RAM problems so I need to swap the RAM, too.

mvsbat.jpg
 

Blur2040

Crossed Swords Squire
Aww, rats.

You were just a few hours late on this thread. About two weeks ago, I purchased a pinball machine. I'm busy so it took until yesterday to get to the battery.

The battery looked OK from the front and still saved information. Flipped the board over...and fuzzy corrosion on the solder points for the battery. No other corrosion anywhere else as far as I could see. Close one.
 

pixeljunkie

Whilst Drunk., I Found God., Booze = Bad.,
i need to order some varta batteries....this thread is like a defensive driving video with gruesome deaths....but MORE horrifying.
 
I think some other beneficial information would be around care and feeding of these batteries. I can't say I really know enough about them.

-I know they are rechargeable so they rely on being powered up from time to time. How much is enough?

-If they sit in storage for months at a time do the batteries die faster than if they are used more frequently?

-Aside from seeing signs of failure, is there some testing we can do to make sure they are good? I recently got a board with a varta 3.6 and I have no idea how old it is. If I measure, it's putting out 3.6V. Am I good?

There's probably some other stuff, but I'm thinking there has to be some recommended care and feeding, and some troubleshooting other than "hey look it started leaking all over".
 

channelmaniac

Mr Neo Fix-it
The boards should be powered up for a day each month if you want to keep the batteries charged. They can keep the charge longer... it just depends on the current draw and the internal resistance (which slowly drains the battery even when not connected to anything) of the NiCd cell.

Once the solder joint starts looking fuzzy you are already on the path to doom. The solder joint will look fuzzy before the end of the battery does.

RJ
 

Syn

Just Short..., As always... :-(,
+1 on the STICKY for this extremely useful information.

Thank you for the heads up:buttrock:

RJ & Xian's photo's are perfect examples of neglect/forgetfulness
 
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grandmascrack

Krauser's Shoe Shiner
+1 for sticky as well. I'm checking more board tonight when i get home from work. As someone who hasn't soldered a thing in his life, is installing a new battery a difficult task? I know soldering pros and can take it them, but I'd rather try and get my feet wet and some point.
 

KaPH33n

Sieger's Squire
Does it matter what brand of battery you use or is it all about the mAh? I recently replaced a few cps-2 boards with XenoEnergy XL-050FAX, all of which had maxells (original?)
 

Hewitson

Jaguar Ninja
Of course the brand doesnt matter. The voltage is what you need to look at.

mAh == milliamp-hours.. The higher this number is, the longer the battery will last without needing a recharge. However, I don't recommend you install a rechargable.

Use a lithium in series with a diode to stop the current from the board reaching the battery. It'll last for years and you won't need to worry about firing up your board every so often to charge it.
 
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IronGiant

Armored Scrum Object
Mouser
Newark
Jameco
Batteries Plus

And a number of other places.

RJ

How about in the UK? Can't seem to see anything suitable on the Farnell or RS sites where I usually buy my components from.

Edit: Scrub that, Maplin.co.uk have the Varta 3/V80H - product code: BN22Y
 
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KaPH33n

Sieger's Squire
So I went to change the batteries out on my Darkstalkers and Vampire Savior cps2 boards and Darkstalkers now boots to a green screen :blow_top:

I didn't time myself, but I'm reasonably sure there's no way it took me over an hour. Visual inspection of the board doesn't give me anything... Is there anything else for me to check? I know other B boards work on that A board. I don't think the problem is the battery, the test points read 3.66 on the voltmeter.
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
So I went to change the batteries out on my Darkstalkers and Vampire Savior cps2 boards and Darkstalkers now boots to a green screen :blow_top:

I didn't time myself, but I'm reasonably sure there's no way it took me over an hour. Visual inspection of the board doesn't give me anything... Is there anything else for me to check? I know other B boards work on that A board. I don't think the problem is the battery, the test points read 3.66 on the voltmeter.

You could have shorted a connection to drain the residual charge in the chips. Was the old battery still pushing good voltage?
 

KaPH33n

Sieger's Squire
You could have shorted a connection to drain the residual charge in the chips. Was the old battery still pushing good voltage?

Yes, it still had a charge over 3.6, but it looked like an original maxell so I figured I might as well change it out. If I did drain the charge in the chips does that mean the board is bricked?
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
It could but CPS2 B boards sometimes get weird boot colors when the connection to the A board isn't good. Try reseating the board again.
 

slugger_dan

Not so MEGA, eh?


The negative terminal of a 1F board I recently recieved. I cleaned as much of the stuff I could from the PCB and put a cell phone battery in place and the board seems to work OK (for now?).
 

doctor_shred

Zero's Secretary
Does anyone know if a MV-1A will work fine if I remove the lithium cell battery?

I think it's starting to go bad so I'll remove it but I'd like to still use the board while I find a replacement. Thanks.
 

eccs19

Pari-Dakar Rally Driver
My battery appears to be still all nice and leak free. I got worried after reading this thread, so I cracked it open.

IMGP4522.jpg
 

xiao_haozi

Avid Neo-Expert
What's the deal with 1A boards.... what kind of setup can we replace with (can it be the same as for the 2 slot - that's what I thought it was)?
 

eccs19

Pari-Dakar Rally Driver
Your battery may look nice on top but underneath could be leaking.

I looked at the underside, and it's all nice and clean as well. Considering all the horror stories I've heard on here, I'm actually quite surprised. :buttrock:
 

KaPH33n

Sieger's Squire
wow, those pictures are like what you show your kids so that they'll be scared straight. I won't ever go more than 4 years between batteries now...
 

themisterfalcon

Jaguar Ninja
wow, those pictures are like what you show your kids so that they'll be scared straight. I won't ever go more than 4 years between batteries now...

Yeah. That board was an eBay gamble. Bought non working with intent to have it revived. Never thought I would find that inside. Had to junk it.
 

xiao_haozi

Avid Neo-Expert
Well thought I would throw up a photo or two.

These two were from an ebay board. (I already removed the battery by this point)



Different board... but new battery installed.

 
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channelmaniac

Mr Neo Fix-it
When the battery leaks on the MV4FT2 version of the Neo Geo 4 slot, there are 3 traces that run next to the battery area that control the graphics on the slots that can be affected by the corrosion damage. If this happens, the graphics will come and go, especially when touching pin 56 of the NEO-253 chip at D5 on the top board with a logic probe or oscilloscope probe.

The trace from this pin routes to the bottom board and is one of the three traces that run next to the battery area on the top side of the bottom board. These three traces will most likely be damaged and require jumpering with 30ga Kynar wire.

RJ
 

ptrix4u2c

Mega Shock!!
I'm about to install a mount for a 20mm button battery on my NEO-MVH board. The previous battery was removed and looks pretty much like this picture posted earlier:

4_sm.jpg


The battery mount looks like this:

IMG_4340.jpg


What's the best way to do this? The holes for the original battery are a bit farther apart than the mount I bought. I don't want to mess with it until I know the best way to do it. Thanks!
 

xiao_haozi

Avid Neo-Expert
I'm about to install a mount for a 20mm button battery on my NEO-MVH board. The previous battery was removed and looks pretty much like this picture posted earlier:

4_sm.jpg


The battery mount looks like this:

IMG_4340.jpg


What's the best way to do this? The holes for the original battery are a bit farther apart than the mount I bought. I don't want to mess with it until I know the best way to do it. Thanks!

Because you bought the vertical mount one (similar to what you can use on a 1C) ... the best thing is to use the one that lays horizontal and has two posts that will fit exactly into the old holes.
something like this:
 

xiao_haozi

Avid Neo-Expert
When the battery leaks on the MV4FT2 version of the Neo Geo 4 slot, there are 3 traces that run next to the battery area that control the graphics on the slots that can be affected by the corrosion damage. If this happens, the graphics will come and go, especially when touching pin 56 of the NEO-253 chip at D5 on the top board with a logic probe or oscilloscope probe.

The trace from this pin routes to the bottom board and is one of the three traces that run next to the battery area on the top side of the bottom board. These three traces will most likely be damaged and require jumpering with 30ga Kynar wire.

RJ

Any tips on an MV2F?
 

lachlan

drunk downunder!, aka. Muff Diver.,
This thread makes me nervous about my MV2F that hasn't been touched in 6 months. Though it was recapped by you ChannelManiac and that was quite a while ago and I don't remember if I requested the battery to be replaced. Hmm spose I was to remove the battery, if I care not about BIOS settings or whatever else, it would work as per usual wouldn't it?
 

xiao_haozi

Avid Neo-Expert
This thread makes me nervous about my MV2F that hasn't been touched in 6 months. Though it was recapped by you ChannelManiac and that was quite a while ago and I don't remember if I requested the battery to be replaced. Hmm spose I was to remove the battery, if I care not about BIOS settings or whatever else, it would work as per usual wouldn't it?

Yeah but just throw in a new battery while you're at it. A few bucks at mouser and you can put in a holder and coin-cell and be rolling again.
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
I'm about to install a mount for a 20mm button battery on my NEO-MVH board. The previous battery was removed and looks pretty much like this picture posted earlier:

4_sm.jpg


The battery mount looks like this:

IMG_4340.jpg


What's the best way to do this? The holes for the original battery are a bit farther apart than the mount I bought. I don't want to mess with it until I know the best way to do it. Thanks!

All MVS boards use the horizontal battery mount except for the MV1C which uses a vertical. You can use a horizontal on the 1C but the way I do it uses the mounting holes for the heatsink, this of course is for a CMVS unit not used in a cab.

For vertical instructions this is what I do:
http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/tutorials.html?show=mvsbat1c
 

the colector

Timid Neo Newbie
i am afraid that my neo geo batery blow and damage the board. i want to now if i can take of the batery and leave the neo geo whith no batery
 

xiao_haozi

Avid Neo-Expert
i am afraid that my neo geo batery blow and damage the board. i want to now if i can take of the batery and leave the neo geo whith no batery

Sure but it won't fix a damaged board.

Plus, why not throw a battery back on there. [see every post above yours]
 

the colector

Timid Neo Newbie
i have another problem i have real bout 1 and metal slug 1 mvs cartrige and the sound are distorsion the grafix are well but the sound are distorsion cartriges are clean how i can fix this problem. please help me
 

xiao_haozi

Avid Neo-Expert
i have another problem i have real bout 1 and metal slug 1 mvs cartrige and the sound are distorsion the grafix are well but the sound are distorsion cartriges are clean how i can fix this problem. please help me

Wrong thread man. Use the search in the Tech sub-forum and you should find what you need.
 
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