Neo geo aes
- Thread starter djkeco
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- Apr 9, 2009
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Is the issue specific to that game or all?
wiki.neogeodev.org
Graphic glitches - NeoGeo Development Wiki
Take a close up of the jumper cables at the RAM ICs next to the B1/Reset switch, someone made a mess there.
Can you burn an EPROM? If so, I'd suggest the DIAG BIOS: https://github.com/jwestfall69/neogeo-diag-bios
Edit:
good pics of this area would help IMO
but then again, good pics of all the board would help, looks like someone already gave it a go
Can you burn an EPROM? If so, I'd suggest the DIAG BIOS: https://github.com/jwestfall69/neogeo-diag-bios
Edit:
good pics of this area would help IMO
but then again, good pics of all the board would help, looks like someone already gave it a go
Last edited:
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- Oct 25, 2007
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Sometimes there can be graphical problems if the cart isn't properly seated in the slot.
Or, you could try cleaning the PCB contacts on the AES cartrdige, if they're dirty, using distilled water and q-tips.
Has the console been modded in any way?
As ack said, you could try using another game, if you have one.
Or, you could try cleaning the PCB contacts on the AES cartrdige, if they're dirty, using distilled water and q-tips.
Has the console been modded in any way?
As ack said, you could try using another game, if you have one.
I do it with all the games. I have another neo geo aes and all the games work wellIs the issue specific to that game or all?
Graphic glitches - NeoGeo Development Wiki
I bought it 15 years ago. I used another one in good condition. I decided to repair it. I changed the processor and the unibios. I checked the ram tracks against my AES which works well.
Attachments
Attachments
Good job with the pics!
Now I can spot that the BIOS was socketed, the 68k as well, then a RAM IC (top right of the board) was either reflowed or replaced..
Trace repair was done on the BIOS as well.
Those jumper wires for the SRAM ICs next to the reset button are way to big and dodgy soldered, 30 or 28 AWG Kynar is better suited.
That whole jumpers need to be redone.
Was that you or did you get the PCB like this? I'm asking because if you want tips for soldering, you can get them here
However, I will tell everyone that NeoGep HW, like Multislots or AES, are absolutely not what people should start practising on..
In any case, get a DIAG BIOS burned, that will help a lot, the BIOS is already socketed.
TBH there is some rotten traces, lots of rework, I'd risk saying "someone with experience will be able to save it", for a novice its not the right place to start, those SRAM ICs next to the reset button need to be redone, very easy to rip the traces off and make things worse..
Now I can spot that the BIOS was socketed, the 68k as well, then a RAM IC (top right of the board) was either reflowed or replaced..
Trace repair was done on the BIOS as well.
Those jumper wires for the SRAM ICs next to the reset button are way to big and dodgy soldered, 30 or 28 AWG Kynar is better suited.
That whole jumpers need to be redone.
Was that you or did you get the PCB like this? I'm asking because if you want tips for soldering, you can get them here
However, I will tell everyone that NeoGep HW, like Multislots or AES, are absolutely not what people should start practising on..
In any case, get a DIAG BIOS burned, that will help a lot, the BIOS is already socketed.
TBH there is some rotten traces, lots of rework, I'd risk saying "someone with experience will be able to save it", for a novice its not the right place to start, those SRAM ICs next to the reset button need to be redone, very easy to rip the traces off and make things worse..
Hi, thanks for your reply. I bought this console 15 years ago. I decided to repair it a few weeks ago. I had to change the processor and rewrite the bios tracks. The ram bridges I’m looking to rebuild. But I got stuck with this graphics breakdown. Can you think of anything? Thank youGood job with the pics!
Now I can spot that the BIOS was socketed, the 68k as well, then a RAM IC (top right of the board) was either reflowed or replaced..
Trace repair was done on the BIOS as well.
Those jumper wires for the SRAM ICs next to the reset button are way to big and dodgy soldered, 30 or 28 AWG Kynar is better suited.
That whole jumpers need to be redone.
Was that you or did you get the PCB like this? I'm asking because if you want tips for soldering, you can get them here
However, I will tell everyone that NeoGep HW, like Multislots or AES, are absolutely not what people should start practising on..
In any case, get a DIAG BIOS burned, that will help a lot, the BIOS is already socketed.
TBH there is some rotten traces, lots of rework, I'd risk saying "someone with experience will be able to save it", for a novice its not the right place to start, those SRAM ICs next to the reset button need to be redone, very easy to rip the traces off and make things worse..
Well if the RAM traces have continuity, I'd check them for shorts between them, its easy to create them.
it looks like lines are doubled, can you see how many repetitions there are?
wiki.neogeodev.org
So I'd check the C Rom address traces, see "Lower address lines" on the linked NeoGeoDev wiki.
This is a really good use case for the DIAG BIOS.
Regarding soldering:
It looks like you're using lead free solder, that one needs higher temps and is harder to work with, use leaded solder, the lower temp is easier to work with, it will leave shiny solder joints, but most importantly it causes less heat stress on the PCB, this wasn't made for such high temps.
Use a lot fo flux, remove it with IPA.
it looks like lines are doubled, can you see how many repetitions there are?
Graphic glitches - NeoGeo Development Wiki
So I'd check the C Rom address traces, see "Lower address lines" on the linked NeoGeoDev wiki.
This is a really good use case for the DIAG BIOS.
Regarding soldering:
It looks like you're using lead free solder, that one needs higher temps and is harder to work with, use leaded solder, the lower temp is easier to work with, it will leave shiny solder joints, but most importantly it causes less heat stress on the PCB, this wasn't made for such high temps.
Use a lot fo flux, remove it with IPA.
I promise to redo the ram well. I am repairing it in my work when I have moments. I understand a little electronics and I would like to lose life to this console since I tried it many years ago without success.at least now turn on and read the game before not. Regarding the C rom. Could you tell me what it is? My level is not as high as yours. I can measure to look for broken tracks and change any component. But I don’t have as much experience as you. Could you explain to me a little better the steps to follow? Thank you very much for your helpWell if the RAM traces have continuity, I'd check them for shorts between them, its easy to create them.
it looks like lines are doubled, can you see how many repetitions there are?
Graphic glitches - NeoGeo Development Wiki
So I'd check the C Rom address traces, see "Lower address lines" on the linked NeoGeoDev wiki.
This is a really good use case for the DIAG BIOS.
Regarding soldering:
It looks like you're using lead free solder, that one needs higher temps and is harder to work with, use leaded solder, the lower temp is easier to work with, it will leave shiny solder joints, but most importantly it causes less heat stress on the PCB, this wasn't made for such high temps.
Use a lot fo flux, remove it with IPA.
https://files.fm/u/y2x6fp5qv I leave a video so you can see the operation
its the P Bus, not the P ROM sorry
see the port pinout for the AES:
wiki.neogeodev.org
there is a row for odd numbers: P1 to P23
then another one for the even number: P0 to P22
these go to the NEO-B1 and LSPC2-A2, by the looks of it, I'd test continuity it from the NEO-B1 to the slot, B1 is the big IC close to the reset button and those RAM ICs
see the port pinout for the AES:
AES cartridge pinout - NeoGeo Development Wiki
there is a row for odd numbers: P1 to P23
then another one for the even number: P0 to P22
these go to the NEO-B1 and LSPC2-A2, by the looks of it, I'd test continuity it from the NEO-B1 to the slot, B1 is the big IC close to the reset button and those RAM ICs
you do you, I'm just an internet stranger with opinions and I've already shared them, all good
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2009
- Posts
- 539
This will be helpful
github.com
neogeo-diag-bios/docs/slot_pins_inserts.md at master · jwestfall69/neogeo-diag-bios
Disassembly of smkdan's Neo Geo Diagnostics BIOS with added features - jwestfall69/neogeo-diag-bios
github.com
I’ve been checking those leads and they’re fine in principle. I brought my other neo geo to my workshop to check clues and I also tried the ones that go from ram to lspc2. I have a doubt. Replace the processor with this one you didn’t sell. Is it compatible?
Attachments
have a look at this excelltent documentation by ack:
github.com
I think you should focus on the 32k VRAM, the SRAM next to B1 is the Work RAM.
here is a pic of the traces from the Work/Backup RAM, the Address lane connections between the RAM ICs should be exactly the same, A0 on the upper an lower should have continuity (output enable will make sure only one is active).
Also check that there is no continuity where there shouldn't be any, easy to create shorts.
The DIAG Bios would make this really easy FWIW, the perfect tool for this situation.
neogeo-diag-bios/docs/ram_locations/neo-aes3.md at master · jwestfall69/neogeo-diag-bios
Disassembly of smkdan's Neo Geo Diagnostics BIOS with added features - jwestfall69/neogeo-diag-bios
github.com
I think you should focus on the 32k VRAM, the SRAM next to B1 is the Work RAM.
here is a pic of the traces from the Work/Backup RAM, the Address lane connections between the RAM ICs should be exactly the same, A0 on the upper an lower should have continuity (output enable will make sure only one is active).
Also check that there is no continuity where there shouldn't be any, easy to create shorts.
The DIAG Bios would make this really easy FWIW, the perfect tool for this situation.
