Colors are bleeding on Neo Geo Aes

darmrt

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I currently own an Aes rev 3_6. After cutting the traces (jail bar fix)to improve the RGB I noticed that the colors appear to be bleeding. It makes the picture look slightly blurry. I also notice that I have this connection on the board which was not present when I had a different 3_6 rev. If I remove this will this fix the color bleed issue? If not, how can I fix the issue?
2e3fef6fc2c417bede38a4b1144d39db.jpg


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darmrt

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Ok, after looking closer at my screen it seems that there is a slight issue with the white bleeding. I have included a photo for detail. Is there a fix for this? I am also using an ossc even with optimal timing I still get this result. Any help would be appreciated.
a1a2e243e004aa7902bc6ed0947fc054.jpg
506965f5c20f79bca55816c932ceadbc.jpg


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6e7f45f9952843f47aaeb8352f3f8fe9.jpg
 
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DaisyAge

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How are you hooking this up to your display? Assuming RGB Scart? This looks like luminance shift which can be cause by certain converters.
Also take off that resistor leg tied to the ram. It looks like someone tried to mod it for PAL? Not really sure but it shouldn't be necessary and might be causing the issue.
 
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darmrt

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I am using a scart cable and ossc to connect to the monitor.

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darmrt

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I cut the resistor leg and it is still the same. After a Google search I found that may not have cut the traces correctly. After trying to remove the traces, which I was not able to do. I just scraped them away as best I could, still the result is the same. I can say it seems as if the jail bars come and faintly. This occurred after I cut the resistor leg, I think! I did not have this issue with my prior motherboard. The only difference is that there was a resistor leg on the ram, on the current one I own. Is there anyone willing to shed a little light on this?

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MKL

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Pin 64 of the LSPC2 is the 50-60Hz pin. Grounding (what the zero ohm resistor/jumper does) or leaving it unconnected (as on MVS boards) sets 60Hz. Tying it to 5V (bridging the pads in the white square) sets 50Hz. I don't think there is any benefit in leaving the resistor vs removing it. Still, NTSC consoles came from the factory with the jumper so you may want to restore it (if you can do a nice solder job).

The cuts on the RGB traces aren't nice. I think cuts on PCBs are never nice and you can get a better result by peeling off the traces altogether. I see your cuts even went on a trace that should have been left alone so you should run a continuity test and make sure the RGB traces are actually open and the other trace is intact.
 

darmrt

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I performed a continuity test and the trace I accidentally hit while cutting the rgb traces is closed. The other traces are open. Unfortunately, I am still getting the same result. I did manage to peel some traces off. However, I am making what seems to me to be a bigger mess of the spot where the traces are. I will continue to try and peel the traces away. Scratching the pcb doesn't hurt anything unless you cut a trace, correct? I haven't seen any real difference so, I may have answered my own question. Just trying to find the root of the issue with my whites bleeding. It makes the picture look washed out.

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darmrt

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I am using a benq monitor. I have not touched any of the default settings. My other systems are ok running scart through the ossc. I had an aes prior to this one that is working fine.

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Digmac

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The 3-5 and 3-6 rev AES consoles put out pretty bright and saturated RGB. I get white bleed on my 3-5 with an RGB bypass if my brightness and contrast are set to their default levels. Once I turn them both down a tad, the bleed is gone. I’m using professional LCD monitors (Sony LMD) with a SCART to BNC setup, but I would imagine it could work on any monitor.
 

Neo Alec

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The 3-5 and 3-6 rev AES consoles put out pretty bright and saturated RGB. I get white bleed on my 3-5 with an RGB bypass if my brightness and contrast are set to their default levels. Once I turn them both down a tad, the bleed is gone. I’m using professional LCD monitors (Sony LMD) with a SCART to BNC setup, but I would imagine it could work on any monitor.
Use higher resistor values if you're not happy with what the mod guide recommends.

Per Firebrandx, use a Framemeister A/D level of 160 for an unmodded console, and a setting of 130 or so for one with an RGB bypass. Stock consoles have pretty dim RGB.
 

Digmac

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Use higher resistor values if you're not happy with what the mod guide recommends.

Per Firebrandx, use a Framemeister A/D level of 160 for an unmodded console, and a setting of 130 or so for one with an RGB bypass. Stock consoles have pretty dim RGB.

The RGB video had a little bit of bleed even before the RGB bypass. I really think it's down to monitor settings. My monitor setups have physical dials for the video settings on the front of the video processor, so it was an easy fix.
 

darmrt

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Ok, I am still having the issue with my whites bleeding. I have uploaded a video showing how changing the brightness changes nothing. This is true for contrast and sharpness as well.

https://youtu.be/A1oYJWSrCwo

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Xian Xi

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Increase the resistance on the output to bring it down. Or if you want, drop the 3kohm resistors on the voltage divider to 2.8k.
 

darmrt

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Increase the resistance on the output to bring it down. Or if you want, drop the 3kohm resistors on the voltage divider to 2.8k.
Ok. Which would be easier to do? How would I increase the resistance on the output? Also, where is the voltage divider?

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Xian Xi

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The output would be in the cable you are using. The voltage divider are the resistors that are 6.8k and paired with another, in the 3-6 it should be a 3k.
 

darmrt

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The output would be in the cable you are using. The voltage divider are the resistors that are 6.8k and paired with another, in the 3-6 it should be a 3k.
Ok. It looks like I will go with dropping the 3kohm resistors to 2.8kohm resistor. Just to be certain, all I have to do is replace all the 3k ohm resistors with 2.8k ohm resistors? What wattage should I use on the resistors?

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Xian Xi

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Yes the 3 resistors on that area. 1/4 watt resistors 1%. If it’s really bleeding a lot, maybe even 2.7k.
 

darmrt

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Yes the 3 resistors on that area. 1/4 watt resistors 1%. If it’s really bleeding a lot, maybe even 2.7k.
There was no change when I swapped out the 3k ohm resistors for 2.7k ohm resistors. So, I put the 3k ohm resistors back in. I did discover something with my composite video now. I don't think it has anything to do with resistors as it happened with both sets of resistors. I would like to know could this be because of how I did the rgb mod? Here is a current pic of the mod and some video of what's going on. Sorry if I offend anyone with the mod, I just couldn't get the traces to peel away.
https://youtu.be/wvgelOx07aQ
0b8ab9e2462ae39134c150fe649e0b8e.jpg


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Xian Xi

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If you only plan on using RGB, it would be easier to do the RGB bypass. Use 150ohm resistors from the DAC to the AV socket. Retro RGB has a tutorial on how to do it.
 

darmrt

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I would really like to keep the composite. I was able to fix the flashing, which I guess was a sync issue, in composite. But, now it's black and white(all grayscale). RGB is still bleeding white but has color. Could it be that a chip is starting to fail? I restored the resistor leg and fixed some broken traces with jumper wires in the area where I cut/scraped the traces. I would like to know if there is any other place I should check for continuity? I am just trying to avoid having to check every trace on the motherboard.

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Xian Xi

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I would really like to keep the composite. I was able to fix the flashing, which I guess was a sync issue, in composite. But, now it's black and white(all grayscale). RGB is still bleeding white but has color. Could it be that a chip is starting to fail? I restored the resistor leg and fixed some broken traces with jumper wires in the area where I cut/scraped the traces. I would like to know if there is any other place I should check for continuity? I am just trying to avoid having to check every trace on the motherboard.

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If you want to keep composite then you'll need to adjust the voltage divider by a lot more to bring down the levels going into the encoder, if 2.7k didn't do much then do a 2.2k.
 

darmrt

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Ok. Maybe I am asking the wrong question. This may be what I should be asking: Is there a pinout for the encoder? Is there some schematic for the component or components that display the colors? I would like to know so that I may continue to look for broken traces with continuity test. I was able to correct some but as I said I need to know where else to look. It seems that just the white is bleeding to the right. I know that red, green, and blue combined makes white so I am thinking something is not connected within the color displaying components.

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Neo Alec

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Yeah, there is. Just search for the data sheet for that chip.
 
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