Blast City Club

[XeD]

I'll wait until he get his price dial in. I think he still getting a feel for pricing as this is his 1st batch of cabs. I'm just a little disappointed in his "guys" clean up of the cab.

 

[kuze]

Does anyone have experience putting a ms2930 chassis on a ms2931 tube? I thought it would be easy to drop in, but the frame on the tube is different and the plastic base for the 2930 won't fit correctly on the metal tray.

Any tips on this? I feel like I'm missing something simple. Should the ms2930 be removed from its plastic base before fitting onto the tube's tray?

 

[grendelrt]

Does anyone have experience putting a ms2930 chassis on a ms2931 tube? I thought it would be easy to drop in, but the frame on the tube is different and the plastic base for the 2930 won't fit correctly on the metal tray.

Any tips on this? I feel like I'm missing something simple. Should the ms2930 be removed from its plastic base before fitting onto the tube's tray?

I did the opposite, but I was able to get it to fit decently. I was able to get the hangers on the bottom slide in place then only one of the holes lined up, I just used a bolt I found in my garage to secure it. It wasn't super secure, but enough to hold it there.

 

[kuze]

I did the opposite, but I was able to get it to fit decently. I was able to get the hangers on the bottom slide in place then only one of the holes lined up, I just used a bolt I found in my garage to secure it. It wasn't super secure, but enough to hold it there.

Thanks grendel. It seems that the 2930 chassis is slightly too big with the plastic housing to slide into place on the 2931; I imagine that doing the reverse would be easier since there's more room on the 2930 tube's tray.

 

[city41]

Got your PM kuze. But I didn't swap chassis. I swapped the entire monitor. So I can't offer much help :-/

 

[kuze]

Thanks city41.

Here's what the metal tray on the 2931 tube looks like, as well as the replacement 2930 chassis in its plastic housing.

 

[grendelrt]

Yeah you are missing the metal tray for the 2930 chassis. I would assume that peice would match up because my 2933 metal tray matched up to my 2930 tube frame. Possible solution, you could buy a peice of thin wood/metal and screw down the 2930 to that and then mount it to the tube frame. Prob would need to ground the chassis to the frame somewhere if I were to guess.

 

[kuze]

Yeah you are missing the metal tray for the 2930 chassis. I would assume that peice would match up because my 2933 metal tray matched up to my 2930 tube frame. Possible solution, you could buy a peice of thin wood/metal and screw down the 2930 to that and then mount it to the tube frame. Prob would need to ground the chassis to the frame somewhere if I were to guess.

Thanks grendelrt, so you're saying that metal tray for the 2931 should be removed from the frame using those four bottom mounted screws, then there is a separate metal tray for the 2930 that I'm missing? And that the black plastic housing for the 2930 mounts on top of said tray?

 

[grendelrt]

Exactly, you could see if someone has a 2930 tray, or just make your own =)

 

[kuze]

Exactly, you could see if someone has a 2930 tray, or just make your own =)

Excellent, thanks -- that's very helpful.

One other question; do you know if the RGB/VGA connectors are the same between the 2930 and 2931 chassis?

 

[grendelrt]

Excellent, thanks -- that's very helpful.

One other question; do you know if the RGB/VGA connectors are the same between the 2930 and 2931 chassis?

Not sure, all the connections except the remote board were the same between my 2930 and 2933 though.

 

[kuze]

Not sure, all the connections except the remote board were the same between my 2930 and 2933 though.

Well that's a good sign at least. I'm going to try and retrofit my 2930 to the 2931 tray, since it should be easier than making something from scratch. Will update here with my results.

 

[kuze]

Can anyone tell me where the RGB input connector is on the 2930? Where the sub PCB that takes the video input connects to.

Edit: Looks like it's shared with the VGA RGBHV inputs on the 2930. The sub PCB which I'm missing merges the signals from the RGB in and the VGA.

 

[kuze]

So my buddy and I successfully swapped the bad chassis on one of the cabs, but the chassis was missing the remote board so in order to get a decent picture we borrowed one from the other chassis. Great success!



For the other cab, although the replacement chassis has its remote board, it's missing the sub PCB for RGB/VGA in. As such, I had to solder the wires directly from the old chassis (2931) RGB input to the new chassis. However, now that I've hooked it up, the monitor turns on and I can hear it as well as see the neck glow, but I get nothing on screen.

Does anyone know if the V-SYNC wire needs to be connected (and if so, to what?) to get a display from a 15k RGB in source? Or is the H/C sync line sufficient?

Any other tips on getting this thing running?

Edit: Maybe the H/C sync line should ALSO be connected to the V SYNC line on the chassis?

Also, now that this thing has been powered up (even though no video) should I re-discharge the monitor before doing any more work on the chassis?

 

[city41]

With CRTs you're talking thousands of volts. I'd always discharge, why take that chance?

 

[kuze]

With CRTs you're talking thousands of volts. I'd always discharge, why take that chance?

That's true.

Anyhow I tried adding the H/C sync line to VSYNC on the chassis, no difference.

I guess there is something else at play. Perhaps if the anode cap isn't on well enough this issue could occur?

 

[cornerstone]

Does anyone offhand know the size of the wooden pcb mount inside the blast?

I keep meaning to measure but forget about it.

 

[kuze]

Does anyone offhand know the size of the wooden pcb mount inside the blast?

I keep meaning to measure but forget about it.

I don't know off hand, but if you bring it to Home Depot they will cut some equivalent ones for you for just the cost of the wood.

 

[Westcb]

I don't know off hand, but if you bring it to Home Depot they will cut some equivalent ones for you for just the cost of the wood.

Yeah I got like 12 or so boards cut for maybe 17 bucks? Just buy a whole sheet of wood and they got a saw that will make quick work of it. I just took some sandpaper and smoothed the edges down a bit when I got home. I experimented with painting a few of the boards too turned out pretty good.

 

[chinitosoccer]

Also, now that this thing has been powered up (even though no video) should I re-discharge the monitor before doing any more work on the chassis?

No need to discharge, Nanao monitors since the Ms8 FA/FTB 25" and 29" onwards have an automatic discharge mechanism, you can hear it discharging every time you power it off.

 

[Kid Panda]

Blast mounting board is 20 7/8" x 15 3/4" x 1/2"

 

[kuze]

Anyone know what size truss screws are needed for the maintenance hatch on the Blast City?

 

[urmyokazu]

In the manual it looks like it's an M4x12

 

[kuze]

Thanks!

 

[kuze]

Okay next question, anyone know what screws/washers to get for mounting a JLF in a Blast CP? My old cab has these gold screws/washers that easily screw down. My new cab has some ghetto screws that make you have to awkwardly fit a washer underneath the mounting plate; I'd like to replace these with the 'stock' ones that are easy to screw down from the top.