Blast City Club

HDRchampion

Before you sell me something, ask how well my baby
Joined
Mar 30, 2010
Posts
4,288
My blast is finally down in the line up, officially in the club.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8587/15854880866_033f2e345f_c.jpg]

That basement cellar looks dope but i would be terrified to play alone. Only thing missing is a freezer & some rusty old butcher knife!



Is the pinout different with Blast? I dont know why my 18 in 1 CPS2 is not accepting. Had a problem w/ the Pandora crap PCBs too. This is with both Blast City, works with my other cabs perfectly.
 
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Jonmkl

Rasputin's Rose Gardener
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Posts
713
My blast is finally down in the line up, officially in the club.

15854880866_033f2e345f_c.jpg

Siiiiiiick.

3.3v , 5v, 12v ( 5v and 3.3v are adjustable )

Sweet. I've got all kinds of bad ideas going through my head over here. Question, would it be possible to plug an Xbox power brick or PC power supply directly into the blast I/O (I don't know if the 001 or other looms use up the 3 pin AC out port or not) or even bypass them completely and provide DC directly to the Xbox or PC as if it was a JVS or Model 3 board?

Mostly just morbidly curious.
 

Reclaimer

Haomaru's Blade Shiner
Joined
May 17, 2014
Posts
677
The Blast City PSU really struggles with netbooting, at least in my cab. I would get booting problems probably 70% of the time. I added a sun PSU to mine and it now boots without issue 100% of the time :)

Huh, I guess some Blast PSUs are different than others. :)

If a netbooting Naomi runs fine of the cab PSU, would you guys still recommend plugging in a Sun anyway? Maybe to lessen the load on the main cab power supply?
 
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300wins

Conan The Librarian,
Joined
May 29, 2003
Posts
1,631
Is the pinout different with Blast? I dont know why my 18 in 1 CPS2 is not accepting. Had a problem w/ the Pandora crap PCBs too. This is with both Blast City, works with my other cabs perfectly.

I never got a CPS2 18 in 1 to work on my Blast City either. The instructions say to have at least 5.15v-5.25v to have it run properly. I never wanted to turn up my voltage that high. Though it worked fine on my other cabs (just like yours). I wonder if it has something weird to do with the Blast City power supply.
 

300wins

Conan The Librarian,
Joined
May 29, 2003
Posts
1,631
Huh, I guess some Blast PSUs are different than others. :)

If a netbooting Naomi runs fine of the cab PSU, would you guys still recommend plugging in a Sun anyway? Maybe to lessen the load on the main cab power supply?

Its recommended to get a Sun power supply if you plan to net boot. Its just as you say... to lessen the load on the main cab power supply.
 

sparksterz

Camel Slug
Joined
May 2, 2013
Posts
508
Huh, I guess some Blast PSUs are different than others. :)

If a netbooting Naomi runs fine of the cab PSU, would you guys still recommend plugging in a Sun anyway? Maybe to lessen the load on the main cab power supply?

Yes. I used my cab psu before getting a sun psu. It was at the point where my cab psu worked about 80% of the time, then it decreased to around 50%...then maybe 20%...It probably doesn't do great things to stress it out that much. I have put a sun psu in and re-adjusted my main voltages and the cab is much happier now. I do have a spare cab power supply just in case I stressed it too much before getting a sun psu though.
 

Reclaimer

Haomaru's Blade Shiner
Joined
May 17, 2014
Posts
677
Thanks guys. :)

Trying to show a friend the magic of my MVS 2 slot, but the Blast isn't syncing to its 15khz. Hooked up via Jamma 001 loom to an MVS-Jamma adapter and the screen just gets a garbled mess.

I opened up the back to check, and the Blast has a Nanao tri sync 2933. Naomi at 31khz via VGA looks great, Naomi 15khz via capcom I/o looks almost ok but is loosing colors and sync sometimes, and any 15khz PCB via Jamma is a scrolling jumbled mess.

Any thoughts?


Edit: looks like I finally narrowed it down after tinkering on and off throughout the day. Connectors on the monitor pcb, the cabinet I/O, and the 001 loom were all dirty/loose in some form or another... All adding up to dropping sync and random colors sometimes not displaying.
Some electronics connector cleaner spray and firmly reconnecting a couple of parts already helped and got it working until the cab was jostled. I have high hopes a fuller clean over the holiday weekend will get her running even better.
 
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cornerstone

King's Dry Cleaner
Joined
Sep 13, 2013
Posts
384
Hey guys Happy Thanksgiving and thanks for the help earlier with my power supply. I fixed the fan and now it's whisper quiet.

To show my appreciation here's a picture of my opened PSU with a ball of dead Japanese skin cells collecting on the bottom
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1417112677.223358.jpg

and my puppy with her new winter coat
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1417112738.834925.jpg
 

Westcb

Give an Azn, A Break Here!,
Joined
May 17, 2012
Posts
1,190
:) yep , like a Stone brewery one

hey while we're at it... here's one of the blast PSUs I've cleaned up over the years.

12508920445_42c06f7cd0_b.jpg


Nice one, wish I had taken a pick of he last one I did. The inside was a gray foam brick of dust I had to literally break it up to pull it out. Ended up using a leaf blower for the smaller parts outside it was so bad. I did end up buying a electric duster online though made for electronics the other night hopefully it can replace the use of yard equipment on cleaning my cabs :-)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

todosnk

NEST Puppet
Joined
Mar 31, 2010
Posts
176
Hi future colleagues :)

I have been thinking in the last weeks to get my first cab, and decided that I will go for a Blast City.
However, I have a few questions that I would like to sort out before I place my order.
Could you please light and guide me on the below. I know some of these questions are really for newbies but the more I read the more I am confused so better ask directly :)

1. Measures. My bedroom's door is 70 cms long, is there a way to fit through it removing the control panel? How long is the cab without it, and is it something complicated to disassemble/assemble it? (this is my first cab and I have no experience at all).

2. From what I have read, Blast City comes with a Toshiba Nanao 2930 or 2931 monitor. I think 2930 is not autosync, but 2931 is. Is that correct? Which would be the best choice?

3. How do you guys deal with with the autosync? I intend to plug a PC (at first it will be a 2010 laptop until I decide the final specs), and I would like to play not only classics but also more recent games via MAME/Hyperspin (VF2 onwards, Killer Instinct, some DC and Atomiswave titles, until SF4 and MK9) so for that goal, do I need to be switching manually from 15khz to 31 all the time or will the monitor do it itself? What is recommended?

4. I read some people turns off the PC to avoid the bios high display and once Windows starts turn on the monitor to avoid damaging it. Is there a recommended way to do so more automatically (or even remotely), adding some delay to the monitor power up.

5. Is it posible to play newer games (lets say SF4 for instance) even in 15khz to avoid manual switching? (As I read, autosync can damage the monitor permanently, thats why I am asking). Is there a big difference in image quality?

6. Regarding buttons, the panel is 2x6 plus 1P start and 2P start. Is there a way to configure extra buttons without physically adding these (I would like to keep the original layout). For instance a button to insert coins, or a combination of buttons to power on/off the whole machine. I guess JPAC can do that?

7. Replacements. What are the most common issues with the Blast, and is it still posible to replace the parts damaged (I am located in Europe).

8. Marquees. Where to find customized marquees?

I was not aware I had that much questions until I wrote them just now :D

I'd really appreciate your inputs on these and I look forward to become a member of this club! :D

While I set up the PC I have 2 jamma boards which I will enjoy playing, Final Final Fight and Golden Axe Revenge of Death Adder :)

Many thanks!!!
 

everten

Edo Express Delivery Guy
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Posts
342
1. Very rough measurements:

31" wide
65" tall
38" depth with control panel
30" depth without control panel

You can get it through smaller openings by tilting the machine forward on angle and moving it through side ways. This is what I had to do to get it through some doorways. I was able to get mine through a 73.5cm doorway by myself tilting it. It would be a lot easier with help, but 70cm is too close to call.


2. Obviously the auto-sync is better, but you probably won't know until you get it anyways.
 
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todosnk

NEST Puppet
Joined
Mar 31, 2010
Posts
176
1. Very rough measurements:

31" wide
65" tall
38" depth with control panel
30" depth without control panel

You can get it through smaller openings by tilting the machine forward on angle and moving it through side ways. This is what I had to do to get it through some doorways. I was able to get mine through a 73.5cm doorway by myself tilting it. It would be a lot easier with help, but 70cm is too close to call.


2. Obviously the auto-sync is better, but you probably won't know until you get it anyways.

Thanks for the info! :) I see what you mean, I will figure out a way to have a bit more space removing the doorframe... I hope that will be enough ... else I will have to leave it in the livingroom which is not too bad but I'd prefer avoiding this :)
 

codecrank

Whip's Subordinate
Joined
May 2, 2011
Posts
1,750
Hi future colleagues :)

I have been thinking in the last weeks to get my first cab, and decided that I will go for a Blast City.
However, I have a few questions that I would like to sort out before I place my order.
Could you please light and guide me on the below. I know some of these questions are really for newbies but the more I read the more I am confused so better ask directly :)

hi and welcome to teh drama :D

1) I was able to get it in n a 29" doorway without the panel on.

2) the 2930 ( manual sync ) seems to be less failure prone but the 2931 (auto) has less convergence issues ( fixable but annoying ) .

3) I don't have the autosync. with a pc plugged in, I just do everything in vga/31k , turn on filters in low res mame/emulator games. I prefer a bright screen to a pixel perfect screen. if it doesn't shorten the life the of your chassis, you could use switchres in mame to play lowres games in 15k.

4) that is a problem with newer bioses , some people avoid this using an arcade VGA card. ( dual port, will display blank on VGA port till windows drivers load )

5) probably with an arcade vga, but who wants to play games in interlaced mode when you have a tri-sync tube ?

6) the j-pac has a shift button. I use P1 start, so P1 start + P2 start = ESC, P1 start + UP = P1 coin, etc ,etc , To power up and down the whole machine you'llk have to flip a switch under the panel, I added an extra button under there that is hooked up to the PC power butons pins.

7) pretty much anything can be found on yahoo japan auction. some stuff like harnesses and panels can be found in europe.

8) spectre on arcade otaku is the man right now. he's in the uk.

hope that helps.
 

NEgO MANIAC

Benimaru's Hairdresser
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
Posts
785
Does anyone have the thread link to the blank Sega Blast/NAC control panels that are for sale? I've tried the search thread and looked through this thread and the for sale forum, but cannot seem to find it. I want to build a panel for Smash TV/Robotron.
 

todosnk

NEST Puppet
Joined
Mar 31, 2010
Posts
176
hi and welcome to teh drama :D

1) I was able to get it in n a 29" doorway without the panel on.

2) the 2930 ( manual sync ) seems to be less failure prone but the 2931 (auto) has less convergence issues ( fixable but annoying ) .

3) I don't have the autosync. with a pc plugged in, I just do everything in vga/31k , turn on filters in low res mame/emulator games. I prefer a bright screen to a pixel perfect screen. if it doesn't shorten the life the of your chassis, you could use switchres in mame to play lowres games in 15k.

4) that is a problem with newer bioses , some people avoid this using an arcade VGA card. ( dual port, will display blank on VGA port till windows drivers load )

5) probably with an arcade vga, but who wants to play games in interlaced mode when you have a tri-sync tube ?

6) the j-pac has a shift button. I use P1 start, so P1 start + P2 start = ESC, P1 start + UP = P1 coin, etc ,etc , To power up and down the whole machine you'llk have to flip a switch under the panel, I added an extra button under there that is hooked up to the PC power butons pins.

7) pretty much anything can be found on yahoo japan auction. some stuff like harnesses and panels can be found in europe.

8) spectre on arcade otaku is the man right now. he's in the uk.

hope that helps.

Sure all your answers help a lot! Thank you so much :)
If looks at 31khz with filters do look good, then I think i will go this way. I do not need an autosync then as I would always be using 31khz, and only switch to 15 when I plug 2 jamma boards I have here. Apparently the 2930 is less faulty than 2931 so seems also a good choice.

The 2L12B panel you're showing looks amazing! I was thnking of getting one and change the sticks and buttons to black and white. It seems like you read my mind as your picture came just in time :). I will check if I can find someone in Europe to do the same panel :) I guess you dont do these normally, or can ship to EU?

Thanks a lot!
 

Jonmkl

Rasputin's Rose Gardener
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Posts
713
Question! Many of the Blast City panels I've seen seem to have different color auroras/sunsets on them, mostly either a more orange/yellow, or a deeper, slightly purplish red. Is there a difference between these two (or possibly more) colors? Like is one the standard Sanwa panel and one the standard Seimitsu? Or is it completely arbitrary?

Or am I just looking at sun fade? Lol
 
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NEgatron

Timid Neo Newbie
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
6
the orange green yellow panels are sanwa while the purplish red ones are offical sega panels
 

Jassin000

Frenzy Football Player
Joined
Dec 9, 2011
Posts
985
1) I always remove my panel as a precaution before moving it! Hitting it (hard) WILL crack the bottom corners where it connects to the body, and these cracks WILL grow/spread over time (just like a crack in a car's windshield).

2) A 2930 manual sync is less failure prone based on everything I could find comparing the two... I never personally owned a auto switching, but made sure to request a manual when placing my order from Ken.

3) I no longer have the original Nanao, the chassis died and then I necked the tube while moving it. When I did, I used a uVC to change EVERYTHING to 15khz (320x240) before feeding the monitor via JAMMA fingerboard/001 loom. I have been told many times that rapid mode (15khz/31khz) changes, without first powering down the chassis, add stress which causes damage at an accelerated rate... This is exactly the kind of behavior a PC will exhibit when booting up. Again, this is an important reason to use some type of video filtering/transcoding device and not directly connecting.

4) The ArcadeVGA card is a nightmare to configure on a modern PC/OS. I'll sell you one for 15$ plus shipping if you want, but don't say I didn't warn you (its truly a hunk of shit)!

5) I assume you are speaking about SF4 on PC? Nope, even with an ArcadeVGA card... The game simply won't run in a lower resolution because it was never designed/coded to do so. What you see in the video options menu of the game is what you get, PERIOD (unless you use a transcode device like the uVC).

6) I know nothing about the j-pac, I would recommend a Lemony brand 360 pad-hack for PC (aka DirectX-input without the need for special drivers under Windows) controls... As for the video filtering feature it has, again I know nothing about that, but it sounds useful.

7) Some replacement parts exist, but others are so rare they can only be found when someone parts out a dead cab. I would say that while replacements are still an option at this point in time... Treat everything like its the last one on earth! Don't go into this thinking you'll be able to just pick up more, and you'll never be disappointed. Common failures? CHASSIS!!!!!1111

8) My MAME marquee was made by another member (bigtime) here, he no longer offers this service. I swapped out my custom for the original/stock again when I moved my Omega/CPS2 in. I am willing to part with it for what I payed (50$ plus shipping) if your interested.

Welcome to the club, I think you will find it both a rewarding and painful process/experience.

:-J
 
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