Viletim's NESRGB board

kraquepype

Armored Scrum Object
Joined
Mar 12, 2009
Posts
256
http://etim.net.au/nesrgb/

Just discovered this. I didn't think such a thing existed.

I was following a replacement PPU project that had me bummed when it petered out, but this is refreshing to see.

Has anyone used this? How does it look, play, etc compared to the traditional RGB mod?
 

goombakid

Fu'un-Ken Master
10 Year Member
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Oct 11, 2011
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1,536
Someone needs to take over that VGA PPU replacement project.

Also, really real?
 

kraquepype

Armored Scrum Object
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Mar 12, 2009
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It seems legit... I don't know how I missed it though. It doesn't require a PC10/VS ppu to run either. I'm hoping its real!
 

kraquepype

Armored Scrum Object
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Mar 12, 2009
Posts
256
Thanks for the thread and all the work you did on this mod already. I can't wait to get one to install myself. Need to figure out if I want it in my Fami or toaster... Did you ever find out if the FDS works with it?
 

Skips

Belnar Institute Student
Joined
Aug 8, 2012
Posts
1,248
Thanks for the thread and all the work you did on this mod already. I can't wait to get one to install myself. Need to figure out if I want it in my Fami or toaster... Did you ever find out if the FDS works with it?

FDS has no problems with it but if done in a Famicom the ejection mechanism must be removed. If you plan to use the better audio circuit included with the kit on the Famicom the mic on player two also wont work anymore.
 

kraquepype

Armored Scrum Object
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Mar 12, 2009
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OK cool, thanks a ton. I won't miss the microphone but I do wonder what it was for.
 

mikejmoffitt

Mickey's Coach
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Feb 6, 2014
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578
FDS has no problems with it but if done in a Famicom the ejection mechanism must be removed. If you plan to use the better audio circuit included with the kit on the Famicom the mic on player two also wont work anymore.

I don't really get this part. I was able to fit the PCB on the underside of the Famicom and didn't have to touch the eject mechanism at all. Is this the result of the official adapter board?
 

Skips

Belnar Institute Student
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I don't really get this part. I was able to fit the PCB on the underside of the Famicom and didn't have to touch the eject mechanism at all. Is this the result of the official adapter board?

Yes it is the result of the adapter board. The problem is pin 21 needs to be right on the kit (cant have distance between it and the NESRGB) otherwise it creates a good deal of noise on start up. This extra noise causes the pixel clock to not sync correctly about 50% of the time when using an everdrive (which causes the speckles in sprites to show up). Even just half a inch of distance between pin 21 and the NESRGB will cause this issue when using the N8. I have done the under the Famicom PCB several times as well and this was the case every time. Real carts work correctly however so if you are not using an everdrive the under the PCB method works just fine.

Also I was wrong about the Mic. It still does work it is just not connected to the audio circuit in the new kit. You can still use it in games like Zelda just fine.
 

chrisdc123

Timid Neo Newbie
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Nov 26, 2014
Posts
3
OK cool, thanks a ton. I won't miss the microphone but I do wonder what it was for.

As pointed out in the link, you could scream into it in Zelda 1 to kill Pol's Voice (the giant jumping rabbit ears). They funny part of it (to me, at least!) is that the authors of the English instruction manual didn't realize that the microphone was taken out. So they left in the statement that his "weak point" was that "he hates loud noise" -- leading countless kids like myself to wonder why we were playing the recorder to no effect whatsoever on them.
 

mikejmoffitt

Mickey's Coach
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Posts
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Yes it is the result of the adapter board. The problem is pin 21 needs to be right on the kit (cant have distance between it and the NESRGB) otherwise it creates a good deal of noise on start up. This extra noise causes the pixel clock to not sync correctly about 50% of the time when using an everdrive (which causes the speckles in sprites to show up). Even just half a inch of distance between pin 21 and the NESRGB will cause this issue when using the N8. I have done the under the Famicom PCB several times as well and this was the case every time. Real carts work correctly however so if you are not using an everdrive the under the PCB method works just fine.

Also I was wrong about the Mic. It still does work it is just not connected to the audio circuit in the new kit. You can still use it in games like Zelda just fine.

Interesting. I have the clock alignment problem on my regular front-loading NES, and I mounted NESRGB using the adapter kits in the right spot and everything. It only shows up in Akumajou Densetsu 3 on the everdrive N8, and it goes back and forth between having it and not. Not sure if there's a real solution for this.
 

MidnightMonkey

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Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Posts
825
Fair warning: I don't know what I'm talking about, because I haven't used the board. But why would distance between the two cause interference? If the interference is EMI, wouldn't using a shielded wire fix the issue? If noise is introduced due to signal degradation over distance, wouldn't a capacitor fix that? Just trying to apply basic electronics theory to the situation.
 

mikejmoffitt

Mickey's Coach
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Feb 6, 2014
Posts
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Fair warning: I don't know what I'm talking about, because I haven't used the board. But why would distance between the two cause interference? If the interference is EMI, wouldn't using a shielded wire fix the issue? If noise is introduced due to signal degradation over distance, wouldn't a capacitor fix that? Just trying to apply basic electronics theory to the situation.

A shielded wire can help substantially, but it can't fix everything. Introducing a capacitor can sometimes filter out noise, but it will also filter out a clock signal.
 

MidnightMonkey

Loyal Neo-Disciple
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Jun 1, 2014
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A shielded wire can help substantially, but it can't fix everything. Introducing a capacitor can sometimes filter out noise, but it will also filter out a clock signal.

Could you use a transistor as an amplifier for the singal instead? Couple that with doubly shielded wire and be good to go?
 
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