Blast City Club

skate323k137

Professional College Dropout
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Is there a monitor repair flowchart available? I feel like I’ve read about one somewhere.

My Blast is playing blind currently.
-PSU starts up, but is in need of a cleaning and new fan
-Marquee lights up
-Movement of SCREEN pot and a few other video pots will produce some faint sort of sound like it’s changing something
-No “clicking” when cab starts up
-doesn’t seem to have any static buildup on monitor after being on for a while
-I’ve reseated I/O and monitor Molex connections
-I haven’t completely checked grounding but don’t think there’s any loose cords
-ceramic chassis fuses are old, so I’ve ordered two new ones, have to wait on that

Is there any way a bad PSU would run power to jamma board and marquee but not allow monitor to come on?

I feel like this is more of a bad chassis, but it was working a few days ago before transport. Possibly something came loose?

This is the manual sync chassis

If the marquee light comes on, your 110v should be fine. The PSU that powers the game bd doesn't matter as far as powering the monitor goes.
 

NERDtendo

Krauser's Henchman
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4 and 5 connect to the JAMMA edge. You use the normal loom for P1 and P2 for those buttons. Button 6 from the extra connector.

I was just trying my Rev B kick harness adapter too and all you can get is button 6. Skate is right. You gotta get 4 & 5 from the JAMMA edge connector.
 

cornerstone

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If the marquee light comes on, your 110v should be fine. The PSU that powers the game bd doesn't matter as far as powering the monitor goes.

Yeah that makes sense.

I replaced the 1A and 6.3A fuses on the monitor chassis, no change, although I am getting static on the monitor which I didn’t think I had before.

I haven’t seen any bulging caps, I’m unsure of any neck glow.

Did anyone save the Blast City repair flowchart? I’ve seen a link to it but it’s dead.
 

cornerstone

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I’ve taken the chassis out and in the process found the neck board was loose from shipping. Popped it back in.

But there may be a worse problem. I’m not showing the color red. No amount of moving pots changes that. R cutoff and r gain do nothing.

Is there any way this is a chassis issue and not a tube problem?
9c43c11af91b6b5eb3b1392378b877db.jpg
 

radiantsvgun

So Many Games. No Time. For Harlots.
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I’ve taken the chassis out and in the process found the neck board was loose from shipping. Popped it back in.

But there may be a worse problem. I’m not showing the color red. No amount of moving pots changes that. R cutoff and r gain do nothing.

Is there any way this is a chassis issue and not a tube problem?
9c43c11af91b6b5eb3b1392378b877db.jpg

Make sure the rgbsg connector on the chassis is solid. I’ve had a similar issue and the connector got caught.
 

cornerstone

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Make sure the rgbsg connector on the chassis is solid. I’ve had a similar issue and the connector got caught.

I’ve reseated the connector with no change. The absence of red is in both 15khz and VGA mode.

I wonder if I could unseat the connector, run a wire from the blue output on the vga pcb to the red input on the chassis? Would that turn everything that’s supposed to be red to blue?


That might determine if it’s a wiring issue possibly
 

djjimmyjames

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yep
About to read this whole thread. Maybe I’ll learn some new stuff
It’s coming from Cali as of today needs some work
EA9A41EF-70FF-4D3F-8A6E-7196B198958A.jpeg
 
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radiantsvgun

So Many Games. No Time. For Harlots.
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I’ve reseated the connector with no change. The absence of red is in both 15khz and VGA mode.

I wonder if I could unseat the connector, run a wire from the blue output on the vga pcb to the red input on the chassis? Would that turn everything that’s supposed to be red to blue?


That might determine if it’s a wiring issue possibly

It’s rare, but on a toshiba chassis I had a similar issue and the rgb was labeled wrong on the chassis. No red is odd, especially if it’s been freshly capped.
 

NEgO MANIAC

Sieger's Squire
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Could be the red transistor that went bad. Not so sure on this particular chassis, but that is a common problem when color is lost on other brands. You should be able to trace back from the Red drive pot to the corresponding transistor. Might have to pull it out of circuit to verify if good or bad. I would still do a continuity check from the JAMMA edge connector to the input on the monitor chassis to make sure there are no breaks.
 

NEgO MANIAC

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I finally received the power supply (3 months) from Yanton and it has a big red 220V sticker on it. I don't recall the ad mentioning it being 220V or in the picture. The ad disappeared so I can't verify, but I'm fairly positive I would have noticed. Regardless, I'm upset that I waited this long and out of money if this can't be converted to 110V. Anyone know if this can be converted to 110V?

Also, got another power supply off of Yahoo Auctions and all I get is a "clunking" sound but no power. It mates with my Blast, but looks different. Can someone fill me in on what I got here?



 
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egg_sanwich

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Did you reach out to Yaton about this? He’s always been reasonable to deal with whenever I’ve had issues with my stuff from him, and always makes it right.
 

djjimmyjames

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So round one is in the door now the fun begins. I pulled the monitor out took the cp off7CEBD8F9-D903-4A20-84E5-93F4B3A83A45.jpeg

So then I cleaned the chassis a Naomi universal ms2932 and the 2931s thts not working
53FDDFE6-2904-4310-955F-EF711A0F62E7.jpeg
11694CA3-DBD2-47AA-AFCD-44105AAC5F1C.jpeg

Now to clean the crt
A00DF235-DCFC-48CA-9E3D-4E09FC6B4548.jpeg68A2F7F3-DF90-4C83-A4D2-D9FF39A7D911.jpeg


And now the cabinet
8AEFA692-46EA-4323-9CB5-8FAD4AF04AB0.jpeg3FC8BEAA-A75D-4E09-813E-E5B6CAE0D4D2.jpeg


I still have to do a mountain of work but ya it’s coming along well
 

cornerstone

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a65ba7b7a47be951ea802f4a39f58b55.jpg


963369f4da10f73f3b69004783240647.jpg


Has anyone ever seen these green things before? Are they some sort of capacitor?

I sent this chassis out for repair as the Red wasn’t showing up. Came back with a few of these installed and, as far as I can tell, nonworking.
 

MKL

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They are coils used for filtering the outputs of the power supply. They have always been there and are not directly related to a color loss.
 

cornerstone

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They are coils used for filtering the outputs of the power supply. They have always been there and are not directly related to a color loss.

Thanks. I guess I just never noticed them before.


This isn’t a Sharp Image repair, its a company based out of California. It was recapped through a secondary party, but they left a job number and phone number on the chassis.

With it not working right now, I’m not comfortable saying the name of the company. I will if there’s a proper resolution. I could just be missing something I’m not aware of. Here’s some photos of the hookup chassis, in case someone sees an obvious mistake on my part:

56d79c92699cc704ed56dc81f5810008.jpg

307b3aee2ed01505b9092d23d6431f54.jpg

e783426831c49d25719f332451e6f08a.jpg
 

BanishingFlatsAC

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I wouldn't recommend any of the bigger chassis repair spots at this point. PNL had always sucked and now Sharpi
Is getting so inundated with requests that their work has fallen off big time. Just from looking at those pictures, you got a shit ton of old caps there dude. If you paid for a full cap kit you got taken for a ride.

Anywho, what is it doing? Are you hearing a clicking? Are you getting neck glow? Any B+ voltage? The 2931 chassis is notorious for blowing the old HOT after it gets failing caps replaced.
 

cornerstone

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I’ll call tomorrow and ask what they did. I didn’t pay for it, it went through a vendor.

I did think it was odd there wasn’t very much cleaning done. You could tell they handled it extremely rough while trying to remove the plastic tray - it came back broken in parts.

There isn’t any neck glow, no clicking, power is reaching board, but plays blind.
 
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BanishingFlatsAC

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I’ll call tomorrow and ask what they did. I didn’t pay for it, it went through a vendor.

I did think it was odd there wasn’t very much cleaning done. You could tell they handled it extremely rough while trying to remove the plastic tray - it came back broken in parts.

There isn’t any neck glow, no clicking, power is reaching board, but plays blind.

If they can't remove the plastic tray, I'm gonna go with they shouldn't have been touching it in the first place. Your vendor needs a new repair guy.
 

cornerstone

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If they can't remove the plastic tray, I'm gonna go with they shouldn't have been touching it in the first place. Your vendor needs a new repair guy.

I called them today. They can’t tell me exactly what they did to “fix” it since I’m not the primary customer here. But he did say they fixed it.

I don’t really have much of a choice to accept that at face value or not.

I’ll be calling the vendor to decide what my options are.

I was thinking, is it possible that the power supply voltage is too low or too high? I did clean it out and replace the PS fan while I was waiting for the chassis back
 

BanishingFlatsAC

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I called them today. They can’t tell me exactly what they did to “fix” it since I’m not the primary customer here. But he did say they fixed it.

I don’t really have much of a choice to accept that at face value or not.

I’ll be calling the vendor to decide what my options are.

I was thinking, is it possible that the power supply voltage is too low or too high? I did clean it out and replace the PS fan while I was waiting for the chassis back

The power supply has nothing to do with the monitor. The word of a repair guy means jack shit in this hobby unless it's someone reputable. Again, if they can't get the chassis out of the tray, chances are they don't know their ass from their elbows when it comes to a 2931.
 

cornerstone

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Yeah I’m just throwing in what the repair guy said, take it as you will.

I’ll see if I can get the vendor to get the exact repair work done sent over, I am pretty tired of messing with broken chassis though so I’m probably just going to look for some sort of settlement.
 

MKL

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If you have a multimeter set it to 200V DC and check voltage at the fuse to the right of the flyback (when you look at it from behind the monitor). Black lead on the heat sink, red lead on one side of the fuse and then on the other. If you don't read 180V, it's not working. This is a 2930 btw.
 

cornerstone

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2930, yeah.

When you say heat sink, you mean one of the two black sinks that come off the smaller component board here?

0952288d5f8df62d05e8eaee551fbf9c.jpg


If so, that’s a big fat zero on the multimeter.

When I measure from the fuse to the large silver vertical separators, it’s starts out around 60V then slowly goes to zero.
 
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