Blast City Club

jon713

Camel Slug
Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Posts
511
I love that extra screen on the marquee of the one in the middle, which can is that and is it a LCD?


It's a super neo 29 type II, Yes the mini screen is an LCD. Great cab, got it about 2 years ago from a local guy in Houston.
 

Westcb

Give an Azn, A Break Here!,
Joined
May 17, 2012
Posts
1,190
My marquees were looking pretty foggy with scratches so I tried one treatment of novus 1 2 3 tonight. The first two pics are before ImageUploadedByTapatalk1410737127.602266.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1410737140.816844.jpg
And here are some after shots. Not 100 percent perfect but I didn't spend long on them and only did one treatment. When I have some free time I'll try it again to get out the few scratches that are still left but you can definitely tell the clarity improved. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1410737217.307038.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1410737226.624636.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1410737236.775201.jpg
 

300wins

Conan The Librarian,
Joined
May 29, 2003
Posts
1,631
My marquees were looking pretty foggy with scratches so I tried one treatment of novus 1 2 3 tonight. The first two pics are before View attachment 18707View attachment 18708
And here are some after shots. Not 100 percent perfect but I didn't spend long on them and only did one treatment. When I have some free time I'll try it again to get out the few scratches that are still left but you can definitely tell the clarity improved. View attachment 18709View attachment 18710View attachment 18711

Looks great after the Novus treatment. You can see the difference for sure!
 

codecrank

Whip's Subordinate
Joined
May 2, 2011
Posts
1,750
turned out very nice ! Those things are so brittle I'm afraid to handle them too much , you're brave :lolz:
 

Lemony Vengeance

Mitt Romney's Hairdresser,
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Posts
4,200
SeeTheDifferenceWEB.jpg
 

kuze

Genbu's Turtle Keeper
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Posts
2,397
Hey guys, I've been having issues getting 31khz from the Naomi to sync with my Blast. I've tried pumping the video over the JAMMA edge ( through Capcom IO ) with the dips set correctly on both the Naomi and the MS2930 as well as using the VGA cable straight to my chassis. 15khz works fine over both the JAMMA edge and VGA. Any ideas?

I haven't actually tried any 31khz sources other than the Naomi on my Blast yet, but I'll probably try to see if I can get the Dreamcast to sync with it today. Just curious if anyone else has run into this before and might have a pro tip or two to throw at me.
 

sparksterz

Camel Slug
Joined
May 2, 2013
Posts
508
Hey guys, I've been having issues getting 31khz from the Naomi to sync with my Blast. I've tried pumping the video over the JAMMA edge ( through Capcom IO ) with the dips set correctly on both the Naomi and the MS2930 as well as using the VGA cable straight to my chassis. 15khz works fine over both the JAMMA edge and VGA. Any ideas?

I haven't actually tried any 31khz sources other than the Naomi on my Blast yet, but I'll probably try to see if I can get the Dreamcast to sync with it today. Just curious if anyone else has run into this before and might have a pro tip or two to throw at me.

I actually had the same issue getting 31khz working on mine. I tried pushing 31khz through the jamma edge of my capcom i/o with the monitor and naomi set properly, but I'd just get a rolling screen. Didn't bother to route the cable to the back VGA port to try it. Not sure what I'm missing.
 

codecrank

Whip's Subordinate
Joined
May 2, 2011
Posts
1,750
Hey guys, I've been having issues getting 31khz from the Naomi to sync with my Blast. I've tried pumping the video over the JAMMA edge ( through Capcom IO ) with the dips set correctly on both the Naomi and the MS2930 as well as using the VGA cable straight to my chassis. 15khz works fine over both the JAMMA edge and VGA. Any ideas?

I haven't actually tried any 31khz sources other than the Naomi on my Blast yet, but I'll probably try to see if I can get the Dreamcast to sync with it today. Just curious if anyone else has run into this before and might have a pro tip or two to throw at me.

what does the screen look like ? pic / description is helpfull . I just fixed some vga issues on my 2930, which i posted here not long ago.
 

kuze

Genbu's Turtle Keeper
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Posts
2,397
I actually had the same issue getting 31khz working on mine. I tried pushing 31khz through the jamma edge of my capcom i/o with the monitor and naomi set properly, but I'd just get a rolling screen. Didn't bother to route the cable to the back VGA port to try it. Not sure what I'm missing.

Good to know I'm not the only one then. Hopefully we can both get this sorted out!

what does the screen look like ? pic / description is helpfull . I just fixed some vga issues on my 2930, which i posted here not long ago.

The best way to describe it is a "rolling" image. I'll take a pic or make a video when I get home, but this is the closest I could find: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_tQO62LfMo -- look at about 10 seconds in.
 

codecrank

Whip's Subordinate
Joined
May 2, 2011
Posts
1,750
Good to know I'm not the only one then. Hopefully we can both get this sorted out!



The best way to describe it is a "rolling" image. I'll take a pic or make a video when I get home, but this is the closest I could find: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_tQO62LfMo -- look at about 10 seconds in.


given that the hsync is completely off ( stair case ) , if you get the same issue with the DC in VGA, I'd look at the vga porch pots on monitor. they should be covered with silicone at the factory, but if they're not, someone messed with them and maybe that's the issue. these pots do not affect 15khz mode.

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?222204-Blast-City-Club&p=3775759&viewfull=1#post3775759

another issue could be the switches on the remote board, or loose connections to the remote board too ( giggle the connector behind the bezel to test )
 
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kuze

Genbu's Turtle Keeper
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Posts
2,397
given that the hsync is completely off ( stair case ) , if you get the same issue with the DC in VGA, I'd look at the vga porch pots on monitor. they should be covered with silicone at the factory, but if they're not, someone messed with them and maybe that's the issue. these pots do not affect 15khz mode.

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?222204-Blast-City-Club&p=3775759&viewfull=1#post3775759

another issue could be the switches on the remote board, or loose connections to the remote board too ( giggle the connector behind the bezel to test )

Turns out, I'm an idiot :-/ I was going by the DIP switch settings outlined in the "Bass Fishing" manual for the Blast City (since it's in English). The settings listed in there do not match what is actually printed in the CP. Long story short, switch 2 (15khz) was on when it should have been off.

Gotta give props to urmyokazu for coming over this weekend and helping me tate my monitor. Now that I've got the Naomi hooked up syncing, I've noticed that I'll need to make some adjustments to the monitor....but I'm a total noob at this so I'm not exactly sure where to start.

Basically the top left corner of the screen is all out of whack, and items on the screen "bleed" upwards:

6Jzqzbj.jpgeOWGAm4.jpgZiJWjo7.jpg6KS8DPl.jpg

Not sure if that's a convergence issue which will require convergence strips? Or something that could be fixed by adjusting the pots on the remote board, or chassis? Also, can the pots be adjusted safely while the monitor is on?

Sorry for all the questions, thanks for the help :)
 

masamuneGTO

My Bro Aint HeavyHe's just not Wortha Christmas pr
Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Posts
352
If it is only one corner then I say it is a convergence issue. Yes you can adjust the pots while the monitor is on, just don't touch the anode cap or any other high voltage lines for that matter.
 

Lemony Vengeance

Mitt Romney's Hairdresser,
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Posts
4,200
If it is only one corner then I say it is a convergence issue. Yes you can adjust the pots while the monitor is on, just don't touch the anode cap or any other high voltage lines for that matter.

Don't touch it, and certainly don't lick it. 300nguyens may suggest you do, however.
 

skate323k137

Disciple Of Orochi
Joined
Jan 7, 2013
Posts
3,278
Having a corner out of convergence is pretty "normal" on these 29" monitors.

Since it's looking pretty blurry overall, I'd start with the focus pot on the flyback. There should be 2 pots, one labeled screen and the other focus. Keep one hand behind your back and carefully adjust it with a small screwdriver, probably clockwise just a tiny bit at first, and go from there. Like, 1/16th of a turn at most. The pots on these flybacks, especially the brightness ("screen") are very sensitive. They're very easy to get to on the blast and can be adjusted while it's on.
 

urmyokazu

Lazy SNK Employee
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Posts
57
I would think it is. I found this:

http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Nanao_MS-2931

The MS2931 and MS2934 share the same tube and yoke, only the chassis differs. It is a Toshiba tube with less curvature than an MS9 but more than a 29e31s on the longer side (the horizontal side if in yoko orientation). The MS2930, MS2931, and MS2934 are all compatible with each other. The correct replacement chassis is a Wei Ya 3129b or Rodotron 666b.
 

codecrank

Whip's Subordinate
Joined
May 2, 2011
Posts
1,750
Turns out, I'm an idiot :-/Basically the top left corner of the screen is all out of whack, and items on the screen "bleed" upwards:

the bleed is caused by your brightness being up too high. or one of the colors being up too high. just adjust that on the remote board.

Not sure if that's a convergence issue which will require convergence strips?

yes, check out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYB1L8AIeq4 , you can do it without taking the monitor out.
 

kuze

Genbu's Turtle Keeper
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Posts
2,397
Thanks for the replies and advice everyone!

the bleed is caused by your brightness being up too high. or one of the colors being up too high. just adjust that on the remote board.
yes, check out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYB1L8AIeq4 , you can do it without taking the monitor out.

So a yellow bleed upwards would mean that I'd need to turn down the R-Gain (red) on the remote board (since R + G = yellow and there is no G-Gain pot)? Any tips on mounting the remote board inside the CP instead of behind it? The R-Gain pot isn't visible since it's behind the CP. I can access the brightness pot without any problems, so maybe I should just start there.

I'll probably hold off on trying to fix the convergence issue in the corner of the screen, because applying convergence strips while the monitor is on scares the crap out of me. I had seen that video before and it seems really haphazard the way the guy reaches behind the monitor to apply the strip while looking at it from the front...
 

300wins

Conan The Librarian,
Joined
May 29, 2003
Posts
1,631
Don't touch it, and certainly don't lick it. 300nguyens may suggest you do, however.

Licking an anode cap will grow hair on your chest son! :D
But in all seriousness, don't touch the anode cap while the monitor is on.
And if you want to be more safe, use a plastic/fiberglass screwdrive while making adjustments on the flyback and pots on a chassis.
Everything else people have said so far is good advice.
 

ReplicaX

Unholy Custom Rank.,
Joined
Aug 23, 2008
Posts
2,419
the bleed is caused by your brightness being up too high. or one of the colors being up too high. just adjust that on the remote board.

Never forget about properly adjusting Raster as well. Which if set too high bleeds everything.
 

codecrank

Whip's Subordinate
Joined
May 2, 2011
Posts
1,750
Never forget about properly adjusting Raster as well. Which if set too high bleeds everything.

raster.... voltage ? you mean on the flyback right ?


Thanks for the replies and advice everyone!
Any tips on mounting the remote board inside the CP instead of behind it?

2 screws are holding the board , to the metal frame. take em out and that's it. bonus is you can now install an push button for anything. like a console , pc, etc.


12932106163_f402152b1c_b.jpg
 
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kuze

Genbu's Turtle Keeper
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Posts
2,397
Thanks codecrank. You were right about the brightness causing that bleeding effect. After adjusting that pot a bit, it's totally fixed.

I ended up messing with the pincushion pot on the chassis too and tweaked all the pots on the remote board. I can deal with the convergence in the corner for now, it's really not so bad while playing a game since it's not a spot that I really focus on.
 
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