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Thread: 138-in-1 cart questions

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    138-in-1 cart questions

    Couple quick questions -

    What 1-slot boards does this work with (without modification?)

    How long does it actually take to load up a game on these? I read something about it taking half a minute to load into RAM or Flash memory or something to that effect. Is that true?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mmsadda View Post
    What 1-slot boards does this work with (without modification?)
    My guess is all but the large first model (plain MV-1) as you need to get the sub PCB connected.

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    It's my understanding that the 1 slots are JAMMA compliant while 2 4 and 6 slots have custom pinouts to accommodate for things like stereo and the game select button. This entry describes what could happen if you connect JAMMA to your MVS board. You Will either need to do the DIP switch mod or somehow modify the JAMMA daughter board using this diagram as a reference to make it pin compatible.

    As for the load times I'm not sure with it using the daughter board, but it looks like games loaded instant with the DIP switch mod.

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    OP is asking about a 1slot...

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    Quote Originally Posted by mmsadda View Post
    Couple quick questions -
    What 1-slot boards does this work with (without modification?)
    I used the one I had in a MVS-1FZ without issue. Stock USA bios, and I believe I also used it with a unibios.



    How long does it actually take to load up a game on these? I read something about it taking half a minute to load into RAM or Flash memory or something to that effect. Is that true?
    About 15-30 seconds depending on the game. Some of the games run better than they do on other multi-carts, though, so it's an okay trade off.

    Also, I liked having screen shots of the games visible when picking a game. And the ability to hide games you don't play is also nice.

    It's also the only multi-cart with Waku Waku 7 on it.
    Last edited by aoiddr; 03-16-2015 at 09:01 PM.

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    I use my 138-in-1 on an MVS-1B that is all it is ever connected to so i dont have to constantly remove the daughterboard etc. I also loved the ability of disabling certain games so mine is currently mostly original games with only a few bootleg games I enjoy playing (SvC Chaos+, for example).

    The load time isnt awful,but I don't do a huge amount of switching, usually play the same game 3-4 times, may switch once, then playsome more, before i turn it off.

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    If you are using it with a CMVS I would recommend doing the DIP switch mod. Yes I know it's a mod but it just makes life easier. Don't forget to add the 2 x 47pF caps to SDRMPX and SDPMPX if you want good sound. I would also add the tonne of 100nF bypass caps that are missing on the 138 in 1 as well. And if you want it to last longer I would consider adding 3.3v regulator(s) to the cart.

  8. #8
    I've used mine in a MV-1, MV-1A and MV-1B with no modification, stock bios......no issues.

    I'd say the load times are between 20 - 30 seconds.....certainly not as fast as the 161 in 1. However, that's partly due to the fact that the Neo splash screen plays in the background while the load screen is up. When it's done loading you go straight to the games title screen. On the 161 you have to sit through the Neo splash screen. So taking that into account it's actually not that bad.

    One of the best features of the 138 is that you can edit the gamelist. As far as I know the 138 is the only mvs muticart that allows you to do that. They should all have that feature especially with all the hack garbage they put on these things.
    Last edited by pipes; 03-20-2015 at 02:58 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pipes View Post
    One of the best features of the 138 is that you can edit the gamelist. As far as I know the 138 is the only mvs muticart that allows you to do that. They should all have that feature especially with all the hack garbage they put on these things.
    I'm surprised that the 138 is the only MVS multi-cart to have screen caps from the games. Even most of those xx-in-1 Jamma boards tend to have screen caps for the games. If you're familiar with the Neo Geo offerings, it becomes less of a problem, but if someone is fresh to the MVS, then it becomes just a bunch of random starting/quitting.
    Last edited by aoiddr; 03-20-2015 at 05:32 PM.

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    I recently picked up one of these at a good price, noticed that on my 4-slot I can't access the test menu to change the softdip settings. At first I thought maybe the daughterboard required the test button to be on the normal JAMMA pin (rather than MVS) and when I went to wire that up my harness didn't even have a pin in that slot.

    Before I get into that can anyone using a multi-slot board confirm you can enter the test mode if you have the test button wired on the normal JAMMA pin configuration, or can you even enter test mode at all on this thing? I noticed the manual for the 138-in-1 doesn't even show a test button on the pinout and wants you to use the dips on the daughterboard instead.

    I'm also assuming if you clipped the daughterboard off and used a dipswitch mod you could enter the test screen like normal, plus use it with other carts inserted into a multi-slot board/ correct?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Azathoth View Post
    I recently picked up one of these at a good price, noticed that on my 4-slot I can't access the test menu to change the softdip settings. At first I thought maybe the daughterboard required the test button to be on the normal JAMMA pin (rather than MVS) and when I went to wire that up my harness didn't even have a pin in that slot.

    Before I get into that can anyone using a multi-slot board confirm you can enter the test mode if you have the test button wired on the normal JAMMA pin configuration, or can you even enter test mode at all on this thing? I noticed the manual for the 138-in-1 doesn't even show a test button on the pinout and wants you to use the dips on the daughterboard instead.

    I'm also assuming if you clipped the daughterboard off and used a dipswitch mod you could enter the test screen like normal, plus use it with other carts inserted into a multi-slot board/ correct?
    Are you trying to enter the soft dip menu before selecting a game?

    I'm not familiar with the menu system, I got mine and did the dip-switch mod before I even plugged the sucker in. Also, don't forget that the daughter board is wired for JAMMA, not the MVS (multi-slot) configuration.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Azathoth View Post
    I recently picked up one of these at a good price, noticed that on my 4-slot I can't access the test menu to change the softdip settings. At first I thought maybe the daughterboard required the test button to be on the normal JAMMA pin (rather than MVS) and when I went to wire that up my harness didn't even have a pin in that slot.

    Before I get into that can anyone using a multi-slot board confirm you can enter the test mode if you have the test button wired on the normal JAMMA pin configuration, or can you even enter test mode at all on this thing? I noticed the manual for the 138-in-1 doesn't even show a test button on the pinout and wants you to use the dips on the daughterboard instead.

    I'm also assuming if you clipped the daughterboard off and used a dipswitch mod you could enter the test screen like normal, plus use it with other carts inserted into a multi-slot board/ correct?
    The 138 in 1 daughterboard will need a very simple mod to pass along the test switch signal. On multislot MVS, the test switch goes to pin M of the JAMMA edge. The 138 in 1 board has no connection between pin M on its JAMMA edge and pin M on its JAMMA slot. Just solder a wire between these two points, and your MVS test switch should work again.

    You also need to do this on pin 26 if you want your select button to work (for unibios purposes)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vigormortis View Post
    The 138 in 1 board has no connection between pin M on its JAMMA edge and pin M on its JAMMA slot.
    Exactly what I needed to know, thanks.

    Do you know off the top of your head if it has the connection for the test button at its location on the JAMMA standard?

    Also, when doing the dipswitch mod does the cart behave like any other normal cart in a multi-slot board?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Azathoth View Post
    Do you know off the top of your head if it has the connection for the test button at its location on the JAMMA standard?
    The standard JAMMA test switch is pin 15. Unlike pins M & 26, pin 15 actually seems to have some sort of connection to it on the daughterboard. However, when I tried poking it with a wire connected to ground, it didn't pass a button press along to my 1 slot board.

    Also, when doing the dipswitch mod does the cart behave like any other normal cart in a multi-slot board?
    Yeah, although it might be finicky about which slot it likes (at least on my 4 slot).

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    Quote Originally Posted by Azathoth View Post
    Exactly what I needed to know, thanks.

    Do you know off the top of your head if it has the connection for the test button at its location on the JAMMA standard?

    Also, when doing the dipswitch mod does the cart behave like any other normal cart in a multi-slot board?
    With the dip switch mod, the selected game loads instantly, as if it were a normal cart. I have been testing in a 4 slot with other real games in the other slots. Some games on the 138 in 1 appear to load fine with other games plugged in and some games on the 138 will not load. All games on the 138 load in slot 1 with no other carts plugged in. I plan to try the 138 in 1 in the other slots to see if those games will load with other carts plugged in. I'll report back with my findings.

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    On my 4 slot with Unibios, just prior to starting the game after it finishes loading the system crashes with an error and requires a reboot with the C button at the Unibios crash menu. After it reboots it goes straight to the game with no other problems, everything plays fine.

    Obviously with the dipswitch mod that wouldn't occur but has anyone else ran into that? Just wondering if it's an issue due to me using the sub-PCB with a 4-slot or due to my older Unibios version (2.2).

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    I've got UNIBIOS 3.2 in my 4 slot and the 138 in 1 works fine with the sub-PCB or without using the dip switch mod.

    I moved the 138 in 1 with the dip switch mod from slot 1 to slot 3 with slots 1 and 2 occupied with two original carts and I haven't had any trouble with any of the 138 in 1 games booting. The games on the 138 in 1 that wouldn't boot with other carts installed now work fine. The three carts cycle fine through attract mode and are each selectable using the game select button.

    I need to get one more cart to fill all the slots in my cabinet. This will work nicely as I can have three of my favorite carts always in the cabinet and select a different game on the 138 in 1 from time to time.

    Has anyone tried running multiple 138 in 1 carts with the dip switch mod in the same machine? Any issues?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vigormortis View Post
    The 138 in 1 daughterboard will need a very simple mod to pass along the test switch signal. On multislot MVS, the test switch goes to pin M of the JAMMA edge. The 138 in 1 board has no connection between pin M on its JAMMA edge and pin M on its JAMMA slot. Just solder a wire between these two points, and your MVS test switch should work again.

    You also need to do this on pin 26 if you want your select button to work (for unibios purposes)
    As a newbie to doing these kind of modifications, I believe I understand what you mean and I've located the pin on my daughterboard, but I was hoping you could give me some clarification before I start hacking away, or if not, perhaps you could direct me towards another resource, but I'm assuming the wire would go where the solder spot allready is at pin M on the slot, but at pin M on the edge, where exactly would I want to solder that wire?at the base of the little metal plate on the corresponding pin? Hope I'm saying this right. Thanks.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by GadgetUK View Post
    If you are using it with a CMVS I would recommend doing the DIP switch mod. Yes I know it's a mod but it just makes life easier. Don't forget to add the 2 x 47pF caps to SDRMPX and SDPMPX if you want good sound. I would also add the tonne of 100nF bypass caps that are missing on the 138 in 1 as well. And if you want it to last longer I would consider adding 3.3v regulator(s) to the cart.
    Just want to pipe in and say I've definitely experienced the same audio issues with my 138 in 1 on my MV2F and will be giving this a try. Thanks for putting in the legwork to identify the fix!

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    Test switch working.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rezolve82 View Post
    As a newbie to doing these kind of modifications, I believe I understand what you mean and I've located the pin on my daughterboard, but I was hoping you could give me some clarification before I start hacking away, or if not, perhaps you could direct me towards another resource, but I'm assuming the wire would go where the solder spot allready is at pin M on the slot, but at pin M on the edge, where exactly would I want to solder that wire?at the base of the little metal plate on the corresponding pin? Hope I'm saying this right. Thanks.
    Okay, well, lacking any outside response, I got itchy and dove in myself. So, on the outside chance anyone else out there should find themselves pondering the same question, as to where to place the wire connecting pin M on the 138-in-1 daughterboard, my original assumption was correct, and if you place the wire at the base of the plate on pin M of the JAMMA edge, you will get test switch connection. Sometimes I seek maybe too much clarification. Overall, speaking to the 138-in-1 in general, as more knowledgeable minds have said, while it does offer cheap mvs access to a few expensive games that other multicarts don't have, (Ninja Master's, pretty much worth it for that, the legit version of Garou, AOF 3, Cyber-Lip, WHPerfect, etc.) If you're younger and likely have access to emulation, or if you're my age but have the money//set up for the flash cart, that's prolly a better, easier way to go, just because of the amount of time you will spend rectifying sound issues, the test switch issues, etc. Unless you don't mind tinkering. I should also note that my cab is a 2 slot, and maybe the built in difficulty dip setting might actually work on the 1-slots it was designed for. Overall the game selection is better than most multicarts, but at least in my case, the build quality was also not very good, with glue spots, rough solder, etc., But it does work. Still want a dip switch mod.

  22. #22
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    Your gripes about that one cart is what keeps me waffling away from buying it. I've got a 2 slot cabinet too so I know it won't be friendly, plus you throw in the audio problems and it just bugs me. I hate that it has like Twinkle Star Sprites and a few other exclusives on there I like that get expensive. I've got the 161in1 and I wish I had the parts and trust in myself to do the audio fix as it gets on my nerves, bad enough I've bought a few games on there because it's so ear pounding annoying (Bust a Move Again the volume goes from soft to like speaker blowout like a yoyo.)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tanooki View Post
    Your gripes about that one cart is what keeps me waffling away from buying it. I've got a 2 slot cabinet too so I know it won't be friendly, plus you throw in the audio problems and it just bugs me. I hate that it has like Twinkle Star Sprites and a few other exclusives on there I like that get expensive. I've got the 161in1 and I wish I had the parts and trust in myself to do the audio fix as it gets on my nerves, bad enough I've bought a few games on there because it's so ear pounding annoying (Bust a Move Again the volume goes from soft to like speaker blowout like a yoyo.)
    Well, not to be confusing here, but I will say, for the money, I do like 138, and overall, I like it better than the 161, but... it really just depends on what you want it for. If/when I've got the money, I would drop 100-150$ on a legit Ninja Master's, but I'd really have to reach a different place in life,...or win the lottery, to see myself buying legit copies of SamSho5 Special or Garou of the internet at where those prices are. Or, for that matter, TwinkleStarSprites, while it is a cool game, is just not my area of interest enough to pay for an MVS cart of. I've actually been surprised to see how many Collectors/Enthusiasts of the 90's premier fighting game machine, seem to be solely interest in its Non-fighting games, but, I digress. The quality of the Roms is overall much better on the 138 than the 161, and besides the occasional music/FX swells on Ninja Masters, Ninja Combat, and a couple other games, I haven't noticed any big sound issues, but that aspect may be more important to some. I will say as far as the test switch/soft dip mod, You don't even have to solder.You can literally just cut a small piece of wire, maybe 2-3 inches, and put a tiny piece of electrical tape at both connection points, and it will pass the signal.Thats what I did to make sure I had the right connection before soldering.
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    That's interesting, and I would fall into the much of the favorites of NeoGeo not being fighters camp. I didn't really get into fighting on it much other than mostly Samurai Shodown 1 and then greatly more so 3, Last Blade was much later after a NGPC exposure to it, and then KOF98/99 due to Dreamcast. The old games my pizza joint carried are those solid action games, shooters, that sort. Twinkle Star Sprites is my thing but not for $300 same with Super Dodgeball on the 161. I'd rather have originals but those prices blow and I've never in my life seen 'wild' MVS carts at some location outside of a rare cragislist pop up, AES sure some but not the other. I figure I'll end up with the 138 at some point, maybe even compare the titles and see if I can swap the 161 out for it perhaps as the quality on it as far as setup goes (jacked up dip settings, etc) gets on my nerves.

  25. #25
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    Hi all,

    I have 138 in 1 cart and a CMVS. This cart doesnt work in my CMVS. Whats the dip switch mod? Can I play this cart without the sub pcb?

    Regards.

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