Test switch working.
As a newbie to doing these kind of modifications, I believe I understand what you mean and I've located the pin on my daughterboard, but I was hoping you could give me some clarification before I start hacking away, or if not, perhaps you could direct me towards another resource, but I'm assuming the wire would go where the solder spot allready is at pin M on the slot, but at pin M on the edge, where exactly would I want to solder that wire?at the base of the little metal plate on the corresponding pin? Hope I'm saying this right. Thanks.
Okay, well, lacking any outside response, I got itchy and dove in myself. So, on the outside chance anyone else out there should find themselves pondering the same question, as to where to place the wire connecting pin M on the 138-in-1 daughterboard, my original assumption was correct, and if you place the wire at the base of the plate on pin M of the JAMMA edge, you will get test switch connection. Sometimes I seek maybe too much clarification. Overall, speaking to the 138-in-1 in general, as more knowledgeable minds have said, while it does offer cheap mvs access to a few expensive games that other multicarts don't have, (Ninja Master's, pretty much worth it for that, the legit version of Garou, AOF 3, Cyber-Lip, WHPerfect, etc.) If you're younger and likely have access to emulation, or if you're my age but have the money//set up for the flash cart, that's prolly a better, easier way to go, just because of the amount of time you will spend rectifying sound issues, the test switch issues, etc. Unless you don't mind tinkering. I should also note that my cab is a 2 slot, and maybe the built in difficulty dip setting might actually work on the 1-slots it was designed for. Overall the game selection is better than most multicarts, but at least in my case, the build quality was also not very good, with glue spots, rough solder, etc., But it does work. Still want a dip switch mod.