Ok, cool. I'll check it out tonight. Thanks
CRT Fetish Thread
- Thread starter theMot
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1953MD looks pretty similar to the 20M2MDU, the manual for the 20M2MDU would probably get you through the service menu
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?248672-PVM-Service-Manuals-20M2MDU-and-others
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?248672-PVM-Service-Manuals-20M2MDU-and-others
I picked up a sony 28dx200u here in the UK, and the picture using me SNES is strange, seems like it is 480i, swear it looks interlaced, If I turn the DRC function to DRC50 it seems to smooth it out to make it look more like 480p, but yeah pretty much can't see any scanlines at all so very different picture to my BVM.
Skips
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For those that have not seen it yet I created a thread where people can post in depth reviews of monitors they may feel inclined to. I will be posting my CRT reviews there to make them easier to locate from now on. I just added another PVM review tonight. http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...view-Thread!&p=3851197&viewfull=1#post3851197
Please don't leave comments in the review thread, discuss anything posted there in here so that thread can be kept clean for ease of finding information.
Please don't leave comments in the review thread, discuss anything posted there in here so that thread can be kept clean for ease of finding information.
Nice. I have a 20M2U myself, but I look forward to reviews on more obscure and rare monitors. I wish these monitors were more common; I had get mine's through ebay.
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Excellent idea of having a review thread! As always I thoroughly enjoyed the latest review and look forward to another
If you don't mind me asking . . . how many CRTs do you have? I'm wondering when you will run out of room 
Skips
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Excellent idea of having a review thread! As always I thoroughly enjoyed the latest review and look forward to another
I have a bunch of dead ones ive used for parts to repair good ones but other than that this medical one is the only working one I have right now, well at least until this BVM gets here today (assuming it comes in one piece and works).
Turbogfx
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I have currently a PVM 2950QM and a Panasonic FT-2900 at my place. Haven't had a chance to test them yet, but will try to review them in the same format you suggested in your thread. Next week or so.
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I have the PVM-20M2MDU, and I agree with pretty much everything you said. It's not as sharp as some I've seen, but it's looks pretty good and the colors are outstanding. For gaming, if the colors are awesome and not bleeding, I'm happy. It's plenty sharp enough from a good RGB source. Thankfully I don't have any major geometry issues or the lines problem that you noted, but I think Panda did some maintenance to it when it was in his possession. If I could figure out how to make it tilt a few degrees clockwise it would be perfect.
deltaspirit
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picked up a pvm 2030 is rough shape a while ago for $40 cad, screen has some deep scratches that I will try to go over with a automotive buffer and compound, chassis also needs a good cleaning and insides needs a dusting. Just got the cables for it in after some quick adjustments it's pretty decent, like the thick scanlines for the snes/genesis. Does anyone know how to adjust the v angle? perhaps it's under a different name on the board?
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mr.2jz
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Continued from above:
Now is there something I should get checked on the 2950Q. If you look at the 2nd Darius pic, it looks like it's shifted over about an inch to the right. I reset the monitor, but that didn't help, yet all the over games are entered just fine. I tried doing H-Center on the OSD, originally everything is Zero, but when I try to move it over, it maxes out as -32 or something but still doesn't move the picture over entirely. Is this just a Super Darius thing? Again, all other shooters/games are centered just fine. Other consoles too.
I'll get some NEC 4PG pics up next week.
Thanks,
Mike
Now is there something I should get checked on the 2950Q. If you look at the 2nd Darius pic, it looks like it's shifted over about an inch to the right. I reset the monitor, but that didn't help, yet all the over games are entered just fine. I tried doing H-Center on the OSD, originally everything is Zero, but when I try to move it over, it maxes out as -32 or something but still doesn't move the picture over entirely. Is this just a Super Darius thing? Again, all other shooters/games are centered just fine. Other consoles too.
I'll get some NEC 4PG pics up next week.
Thanks,
Mike
Is it safe to use a buffer on a CRT, could the vibrations from the buffer damage any of the internal components?
deltaspirit
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With a rotary buffer I doubt there would be enough vibrations to seriously harm anything. I'm more concerned about static build up or something like that but have been reading about some people who had success with this method. I was really hoping it was the anti glare coating that was scratched up but sadly it's the glass.
I had a similar situation with my bvm, where the anti glare coating was damaged so I removed it, but in the process I scratched the glass, so I then used a glass polishing kit to sand back the screen and then polish it back. It worked well but I'm concerned that I may have damaged something in the process, everything seems to be working fine though. I regret removing the anti glare coating though, as the picture does loose its black levels when daylight hits it.
MidnightMonkey
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Skips
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The most glaring issue is the sides of the picture tend to dip in over time and it will get to the point where the settings cant correct it. These caps also fix the drooping of those RGB lines you see in underscan mode. As these caps fail the lines become visible even when not in underscan. This will fix that problem on the M4U as well. Your problem could be a cap problem, only way to find out for sure is to replace them. The caps did not fix my slight lower corner pin issue but they did straighten out everything else pretty well. Its honestly pretty easy and I did it in about an hour last night. The only somewhat hard part being taking apart the monitor due to the wires not being labeled like in older PVM models. The caps are located in the back of the A board which means you have to take everything out and disconnect the anode from the CRT. The 2MU and 4MU automatically discharge the CRT when powered off so you don't have to worry about discharging it yourself to take it apart.
I would just man up and buff that shit by hand. Just my opinion tho
Tried doing this, won''t do shit if the scratches are so deep you can catch them with a fingernail, you would need to buff by hand for years probably to make a difference, nothing but abrasive sand paper will shift it.
KyaDash
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It's funny, if anything, I think those underscan lines are actually a bit higher up now than when I got the monitor. While I think I will do a recap of it at some point in the future, I'm going to hold off until I get a soldering iron that isn't a complete piece of Radio Shack shit.
Finding out that the tube discharges itself is good to hear though.
While fiddling around with my XC 3730 earlier, I noticed quite a large scratch that I don't remember seeing before. I honestly don't know if even taking a buffer to it would be able to do much to it.
The screen on my monitor was in a terrible state, I think most scratches can be polished out. But it is a mission, I don't think its worth it unless its absolutely necessary. You basically have to sand down the glass using progressively finer grits, starting with a heavy grit, and then polish it until its clear again, but it can be done.
Skips
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Few weeks ago I went to a friends house to set him up with a scart to BNC cable for his PVM. He shows me what looks like a pretty bad scratch on the tube and says "That shit was not there last week, I don't know how I did that". I took a rag and some windex and wiped it off. It was a booger that looked just like that.