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Thread: CRT Fetish Thread

  1. #3001
    Rasputin's Rose Gardener
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    Anyone know where I can buy a Scart cable that will work with a US Dreamcast?


    Quote Originally Posted by jago View Post
    my anus is ready to shit on your face.

  2. #3002
    . Yodd's Avatar
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    There are no differences in cables between a US or PAL territory Dreamcast.

  3. #3003
    Psycho Soldier
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    Ran a scart cable on my US dreamcast without issue. Ive heard the pelican ones are trash...i think mine was Naki.

  4. #3004
    Ikari Warrior
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ninjainspandex View Post
    I bought a scart cable for my US dreamcast and it wont work, it is a Pelican branded Euro scart one. The screen just is all scrambled and rotates rapidly vertically
    You might just need to re-wire it. Check the wiring against the diagram here:

    http://members.optusnet.com.au/evilt...cart.htm#dcast

  5. #3005
    Formerly Raz_Hoe.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2D_Master View Post
    I mostly play Gunbird 2 and Project Justice on my DC.

    Anybody know if these games support scart?

    Anybody have a list of games that won't support scart?
    You could google it. The list is only for a few games. I think Gun Bird and Project Justice will run fine in rgb. It is only for official releases, if your playing boots then you could either patch the cd image or find a rgb patched release.

  6. #3006
    Before you sell me something, ask how well my baby is doing and can I afford to take care of him while buying your stuff. HDRchampion's Avatar
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    I used the Pelican scart w/ the viletim console adapter & worked for me.

  7. #3007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ninjainspandex View Post
    Anyone know where I can buy a Scart cable that will work with a US Dreamcast?

    I'd like to know this too. I don't want to get some cable that won't work.

    It's time for my Dreamcast to shine, baby!

    EDIT: Anybody get theirs from here? http://www.retrogamingcables.com/seg...-for-sale.html

    Crom, give us strength.

  8. #3008
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2D_Master View Post
    I'd like to know this too. I don't want to get some cable that won't work.

    It's time for my Dreamcast to shine, baby!

    EDIT: Anybody get theirs from here? http://www.retrogamingcables.com/seg...-for-sale.html
    It should work fine, dreamcast scart cables are pretty simple. I made my own Dreamcast RGB cable using the lead from a broken VGA box. There are 2 pins grounded for VGA or one pin grounded for RGB, and then some caps on the RGB lines.

  9. #3009
    Galford's Armourer
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    I have a spare Dreamcast SCART cable I'd let go cheap if you're interested. I got it because I thought mine had gone bad but it turns out it was a completely different issue.

  10. #3010
    Galford's Armourer
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    SCART cable is sold!

  11. #3011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skips View Post
    You would just use the service menu via OSD. You don't need to open the 20L5 to do most the adjustments.
    Hey Skips, Just wanted to let you know that I got my BKM-129X in the mail today, installed it and bingo, no more shaking etc on RGB.

    Thanks so much for your help, you are a gentleman and a scholar.
    I had this bad feeling it wasn't going to resolve the problem and I'd have to dump this amazing display. But when I booted up 240p suite with the Wii connected via SCART it worked flawlessly!,tested with the other problematic consoles and they work perfect too!

    I am curious why the issue occurs with the on board inputs, maybe I can find a replacement board. But they work fine with component/composite so I will just use them for that till I figure it out. I think it might be they are not automatically terminating, ordered some 75 ohm bnc terminators to test out the theor.

    Thanks again, super happy retro gamer!

    Nyd

  12. #3012
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    Any of you guys had to do something like this to your Bandridge http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=49746 I am getting sync drop out when I use certain inputs and it looks like this is the culprit, but there are 3 different methods in the thread for solving, was curious if anyone had done one.

  13. #3013
    . Yodd's Avatar
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    Open up the bandridge by removing the 7 screws on the bottom. They are below little caps/covers.


    Then you can either clip one side of the diode marked D2 on the pcb or take out the internal PCB and follow the instructions in the shmups thread.

  14. #3014
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    Quote Originally Posted by broken View Post
    Open up the bandridge by removing the 7 screws on the bottom. They are below little caps/covers.


    Then you can either clip one side of the diode marked D2 on the pcb or take out the internal PCB and follow the instructions in the shmups thread.
    Ok so you went with the last post about the two diodes, thanks! I was curious because one said jumper, one said cut a trace, and one said the diodes lol. Would you bother putting a jumper on D1?

  15. #3015
    . Yodd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
    Ok so you went with the last post about the two diodes, thanks! I was curious because one said jumper, one said cut a trace, and one said the diodes lol. Would you bother putting a jumper on D1?
    Not entirely sure, however my guess is because input 5 is intended to be bidirectional for recording purposes and that's most likely what is messing everything up for folks.

    In the end, cutting the trace or diode does the same thing.

  16. #3016
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    Quote Originally Posted by broken View Post
    Not entirely sure, however my guess is because input 5 is intended to be bidirectional for recording purposes and that's most likely what is messing everything up for folks.

    In the end, cutting the trace or diode does the same thing.
    Ok thanks, how did you remove the feet? Someone mentioned blu tack but I dont have any of that handy.

  17. #3017
    . Yodd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
    Ok thanks, how did you remove the feet? Someone mentioned blu tack but I dont have any of that handy.
    You can thread a small screw into the caps and then pull on the screw to pop them out.

    Then just toss the caps when you are done since then have small holes in them.

    I have modded a couple and that's what I did.

  18. #3018
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    Quote Originally Posted by broken View Post
    You can thread a small screw into the caps and then pull on the screw to pop them out.

    Then just toss the caps when you are done since then have small holes in them.

    I have modded a couple and that's what I did.
    Yeah I might do that, its pretty stupid how they are put in , guess they really dont want people to open it up :O

  19. #3019
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nyder View Post
    Hey Skips, Just wanted to let you know that I got my BKM-129X in the mail today, installed it and bingo, no more shaking etc on RGB.

    Thanks so much for your help, you are a gentleman and a scholar.
    I had this bad feeling it wasn't going to resolve the problem and I'd have to dump this amazing display. But when I booted up 240p suite with the Wii connected via SCART it worked flawlessly!,tested with the other problematic consoles and they work perfect too!

    I am curious why the issue occurs with the on board inputs, maybe I can find a replacement board. But they work fine with component/composite so I will just use them for that till I figure it out. I think it might be they are not automatically terminating, ordered some 75 ohm bnc terminators to test out the theor.

    Thanks again, super happy retro gamer!

    Nyd
    Sweet dude, glad to see it is working.

  20. #3020
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    Quote Originally Posted by broken View Post
    Not entirely sure, however my guess is because input 5 is intended to be bidirectional for recording purposes and that's most likely what is messing everything up for folks.

    In the end, cutting the trace or diode does the same thing.
    Ended up clipping D2 and was still losing sync, so I put a jumper wire in place of D1 and now I am good =)

  21. #3021
    . Yodd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
    Ended up clipping D2 and was still losing sync, so I put a jumper wire in place of D1 and now I am good =)
    I am guess your sync stripper wasn't getting enough (or any) power because of that diode on D1.

  22. #3022
    Morden's Lackey
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    I just got a PVM in "great working condition". Seems to have issues in the bottom right corner, degaussing has no effect. Got to love seller descriptions.


  23. #3023
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    Could try a degaus wand

  24. #3024
    Morden's Lackey
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    Quote Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
    Could try a degaus wand
    True, but will set me back nearly the cost of the monitor.

  25. #3025
    Ikari Warrior
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffpin View Post
    True, but will set me back nearly the cost of the monitor.
    Do you have an electric drill? You can use that as a makeshift degaussing wand.

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