The power supply on my MVS crapped out. Would this work as a replacement?

[Billkwando]

I wasn't sure about the amps so I figured I'd ask:

http://www.lizardlick.com/Mean-Well-15A-Switching-Power-Supply_p_216.html

Would this be sufficient?

Any other advice or suggestions are welcome, as always.

I'm more than a little worried about rewiring somebody else's mess, but I'm hoping once I get in there it will be relatively straightforward.

Are the wires in a jamma harness color coded, or is there no standard?

 

[Tyranix95]

I wasn't sure about the amps so I figured I'd ask:

http://www.lizardlick.com/Mean-Well-15A-Switching-Power-Supply_p_216.html

Would this be sufficient?....

An MVS Power Supply.

For sale at HAPP.

Power Pro Ultimate 150 Watt Power Supply with External On/Off Cable.

Check around: You may find it for less.

-----

I'm using a Ultimate Power Supply with On/Off Switch - 150 Watt with my test rig.

I got mine--new--off eBay (shipped) for less.

...I'm more than a little worried about rewiring somebody else's mess, but I'm hoping once I get in there it will be relatively straightforward.

Are the wires in a jamma harness color coded, or is there no standard?

1. Jamma (vs. MVS Harness) Information (For general info.)

2. NEO-GEO MVS PCB Comparison Chart. (for harness type.)

3. JAMMA Harness Wiring Pinout vs. NEO-GEO MVS Harness Wiring Pinout (for wiring pinout chart.)

 

[Billkwando]

An MVS Power Supply.

For sale at HAPP.

Power Pro Ultimate 150 Watt Power Supply with External On/Off Cable.

Check around: You may find it for less.

-----

I'm using a Ultimate Power Supply with On/Off Switch - 150 Watt with my test rig.

I got mine--new--off eBay (shipped) for less.

Yeah that one looks like the one I already have:

That one still works. It's the secondary one that the -5v comes from that died. I have no idea how to figure out how to get -5v from the big one, and I think I need the adjustable kind. Thanks

 

[Tyranix95]

The Happ PSUs have a voltage adjust knob. It's on the side opposite the on/off switch. Just below the were all the wires come out. (n1.) And the white wire in the 9 pin molex connector is the -5V line. (n2.)

-----

n1. Power Pro Ultimate 150 Watt Power Supply with External On/Off Cable (Double Click on Pic. to enlarge. The Voltage Adjust pot is visible in the photo. I can be seen on the PSU through the RED, BLACK, and YELLOW wires near the right, bottom, front corner of the PSU.)
n2. Power Pro Ultimate 150 Watt Power Supply (Close up pic of the 9 pin molex connector on a 150 watt power supply with on/off switch. Shows the WHITE -5V line in the 9 pin Molex housing.)

 

[Tyranix95]

...It's the secondary one that the -5v comes from that died. I have no idea how to figure out how to get -5v from the big one, and I think I need the adjustable kind. ...

What do you mean secondary one? Your cab. has two power supplies?

http://flashdim.drunkenoverclockers.com/construction.html (Multiple pics. of a MVS power board.)

 

[Mike26]

bill dude you have all the powersupply you need bro. Don't waste money on a new one, get the black one in the second pic working. I have that one in my gold cab, as others before me have mentioned, there is an adjustment knob somewhere. If you want some support maybe we can work on this thing over skype. lemme know dude

 

[Billkwando]

What do you mean secondary one? Your cab. has two power supplies?

Yeah d00d! It's crazy. I wrote about it here: http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?223901-Funny-issues-w-MVS-cab

So I opened up the back of my cab and snapped some more pics:

Arrrrrr, thar be a knobby!

and here's the other side:

So yeah, I have no idea why it's wired through that 2nd power supply, but they must've had a reason?

The other mystery is how, if all the power feeds back to the big psu, the power switch didn't power down the MVS board.

Here's the whole gallery btw:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Billkwando/Mvs#

 

[Mike26]

hey one more thing. did i read you said it was a dynamo HS5 cab? if so, i have a sfIICE dynamo hs5 and the powersuppy sits in the middle of the right side of the machine towards the back and where that little box is on the right side there is a momentary push button where the power supply fits right up into the cab. Like this is a circle where the push start is on the outside so you reach around the right side. Make sure your's doesnt have 3 powersupplys lol or that the hole is empty bro.

 

[Billkwando]

hey one more thing. did i read you said it was a dynamo HS5 cab? if so, i have a sfIICE dynamo hs5 and the powersuppy sits in the middle of the right side of the machine towards the back and where that little box is on the right side there is a momentary push button where the power supply fits right up into the cab. Like this is a circle where the push start is on the outside so you reach around the right side. Make sure your's doesnt have 3 powersupplys lol or that the hole is empty bro.

I would like to say I understood that, but I would be lying.

It is an HS-5 though.

 

[Tyranix95]

Yeah ...So I opened up the back of my cab and snapped some more pics: ...

Pic #1: Black Power Supply #1 (Up Close).

Obs 1: The Big sticker has the Wattage and Voltage Ratings. That's the same as the HAPP PSUs above.
Obs 2: The Little sticker is the pinout for the 9 pin molex connector. It tells you Voltage wire or Ground wire the maker put in each Molex housing number. It also has the wiring diagram for your on/off switch. That's the wires in the 4 pin molex connector.
Obs 3. Those three wires running across the PSU in the three pin molex connector provide power to the ISOLATION TRANSFORMER. And the ISO-TRANS provides power to the monitor.

-----

Pic# 2 Cab. Drawer.

Obs 1: On the bottom left hand side of pic., the big black box is the ISO-TRANS.
Obs 2: And also on the same side, bib black box just above it is a second power supply.

-----

Pic#3 Black Power Supply #2 (Up Close).

Obs 1: The knob on the PSU is the Voltage adjust knob. Be careful when you adjust the Voltage up--chips fry at 5.25V.
Obs 2: Looks like the 3 pin molex connector for the ISO-TRANS is connected to something. I presume it's the ISO-TRANSFORMER.
Obs 3: The 4 pin molex connectors (with the Blue and Brown wires in it) in the background has the on/off switch wires in it. And, it is probably connected to the on/off switch.

-----

Pic #4 Black Power Supply #3 (Up Close).

Obs 1: The only wires I recognize is are the ISO-TRANS wires and the ON/OFF SWITCH wires coming form the PSU. Clearly, these look connected to something.

----

Pic #5 Bunch Of Wires (Up Close).

Obs 1: On the right hand side of the pic, there is a 9 pin molex connector with 8 wires inside. These wires lead from the molex connector to the PSU. And these wires are is NOT connected to anything. These PSU lines can run an NEO-GEO board. The pinout for these wires is the BIG STICKER on the side of the BIG BLACK PSU pictured above.

3 x RED: +5V,
3 x BLACK: GROUND,
1 x WHITE: -5,
1 x YELLOW: +12.

IMHO, you may want to check these lines out with a Multi-Meter and see if these lines read OK. You may be able to uses these power and ground lines to run your NEO.

 

[Billkwando]

Pic #1: Black Power Supply #3 (Up Close).

Obs 1: The Big sticker has the Wattage and Voltage Ratings. That's the same as the HAPP PSUs above.
Obs 2: The Little sticker is the pinout for the 9 pin molex connector. It tells you Voltage wire or Ground wire the maker put in each Molex housing number. It also has the wiring diagram for your on/off switch. That's the wires in the 4 pin molex connector.
Obs 3. Those three wires running across the PSU in the three pin molex connector provide power to the ISOLATION TRANSFORMER. And the ISO-TRANS provides power to the monitor.

Yeah, I was really happy to spot that sticker. The power switch and the monitor both work, so that's less for me to have to mess with maybe, but it still makes me wonder how the board could stay powered with it turned off. There's only one power cord obv., and you can see it going into the psu. Maybe the blue and brown wires aren't connected to anything?

Pic #5 Bunch Of Wires (Up Close).

Obs 1: On the right hand side of the pic, there is a 9 pin molex connector with 8 wires inside it leading from the power supply. It is NOT connected to anything. These PSU power and ground lines can run an NEO-GEO board. The pinout for these wires is the BIG STICKER on the side of the PSU.

3 x RED: +5V,
3 x BLACK: GROUND,
1 x WHITE: -5,
1 x YELLOW: +12.

IMHO, you may want to check these lines out with a Multi-Meter and see if these lines read OK.

Yeah When I was taking the pic, I was thinking that dangling plug might be important.

Check out this guy above the monitor breakout board:

Looks familiar, no?


Also, do cabs usually have fifty thousand molex connectors?

 

[Tyranix95]

Yeah, I was really happy to spot that sticker. The power switch and the monitor both work, so that's less for me to have to mess with maybe, but it still makes me wonder how the board could stay powered with it turned off. There's only one power cord obv., and you can see it going into the psu. Maybe the blue and brown wires aren't connected to anything?...

You are going to have to follow the power chord and find out wich PSU it turns on--the TOP PSU, the BOTTOM PSU, or BOTH PSUs. I say both becasue your cab.s looks crazy like that. And, you are going to have to look at the ISO-TRANS and find out which PSU is powering it--the TOP or the BOTTOM. And, you are going to have to look at your ON/OFF switch and find out wich PSU it is turning OFF & ON--TOP, BOTTOM, or both.

...Check out this guy above the monitor breakout board: ...Looks familiar, no?...

The monitor controls.

1. ?
2. ?
3. Contrast
4. V(ertical)-Hold
5. H(orizontal)-Hold
6. H(orizontal)-Position

Also, do cabs usually have fifty thousand molex connectors?

In general, yes.

But, especially cabs. with two power supplies.

 

[Billkwando]

No, I mean the connector above the monitor controls. Doesn't it look suspiciously like a power connector? I really do wonder if there's a 3rd psu lurking in here somewhere lol.

Edit: More weirdness. I hooked up the multimeter, and I'm getting oddball voltages. Getting 3.67 on the white line and 5.6 something on the red ones.....and that's with twiddling the knob.

I also determined that the power switch ONLY seems to affect the monitor. When you switch it off, the power supply fan keeps going. The blue and brown wires are only connected to a molex connector that loops them back to make a complete circuit (I assume)

I took some more pics too.

 

[Tyranix95]

No, I mean the connector above the monitor controls. Doesn't it looks suspiciously like a power connector? I really do wonder if there's a 3rd psu lurking in here somewhere lol.

These two 9 pin moxlex connectors remined me of Player 1 & 2 harness connectors. (Directions/Buttons/Ground). But, I can't tell for sure. You'll have to check these out and see if these run to the controll panel.

 

[Billkwando]

These two 9 pin moxlex connectors remined me of Player 1 & 2 harness connectors. (UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT/A/B/C/Ground). But, I can't tell for sure. You'll have to check these out and see if these run to the controll panel.

Cool. See my edited post above for more infoes.

 

[Tyranix95]

....Edit: More weirdness. I hooked up the multimeter, and I'm getting oddball voltages. Getting 3.67 on the white line and 5.6 something on the red ones.....and that's with twiddling the knob.

I also determined that the power switch ONLY seems to affect the monitor. When you switch it off, the power supply fan keeps going. The blue and brown wires are only connected to a molex connector that loops them back to make a complete circuit (I assume)

I took some more pics too.

Looks like you have an MV-1 PCB. Here's the MANUAL for reference.

Note. The MV-1 requires +5V and +12V to run--not -5V.

----

The way I see it: 5.6V is a lot of power to be drawing from a PSU. Too much to hook a game board up to. And, -3.67V is low. Granted you are testing these lines with only monitor load. But, that may be why someone put two PSUs in your cab.

I don't know a lot about monitors, so now would be a great time for a monitor guy to jump in.

 

[Billkwando]

Looks like you have an MV-1 PCB. Here's the MANUAL for reference.

Note. The MV-1 requires +5V and +12V to run--not -5V.

----

The way I see it: 5.6V is a lot of power to be drawing from a PSU. Too much to hook a game board up to. And, -3.67V is low. Granted you are testing these lines without a load. But, that may be why you have two PSUs in your cab.

I don't know a lot about monitors, so now would be a great time for a monitor guy to jump in.

LOL I'm the one who submitted that manual to hardmvs. But yeah, I think the other power supply is wired directly to the ISO. What was weirdest is that there's nothing close to 12v.

 

[Tyranix95]

LOL I'm the one who submitted that manual to hardmvs.

HA! Cool.

But yeah, I think the other power supply is wired directly to the ISO. What was weirdest is that there's nothing close to 12v.

Yeah, I'd like see a MM reading somewhere around +5V on the RED lines, +12V on the YELLOW line, and -5V on the WHITE line.

Well, lets see if a monitor guru shows up some time soon. I'd like to know what they think, first.

 

[Billkwando]

HA! Cool.



Yeah, I'd like see a MM reading somewhere around +5V on the RED lines, +12V on the YELLOW line, and -5V on the WHITE line.

It doesn't matter which of the black lines I use, right?

 

[Tyranix95]

Nope. One ground is as good as the next.

 

[Dion]

I'll have to look closer later cause I just woke up from a nap and this thread makes my head hurt but I can tell you this. Those PC style power supplies usually have a 3 pin molex for the monitor power. It is just a simple pass-through of 120V to the ISO. (No voltage change). Makes for easier swapping of PS and a cleaner wiring job (usually). Its obvious that whoever wired up the second power supply is an idiot. You only need one. Not sure why they did that. The reason why it doesn't turn off 100% is because one of the power supplies was spliced in somewhere between the power into the cab and the power switch.

Usually the power comes into the cab and into the power switch. The power supply, iso etc comes in line AFTER the power switch. I had a cab rewired this way last year. Just had to change the wiring to come after the switch. I'll look later after dinner and see if I can decipher your pics more...

 

[Billkwando]

Ok, so I went back and measured with the multimeter again (no load, of course), and when the knob is adjusted to where you get 5.02 out of the +5 line, you only get 9.92 out of the +12 line. Time for a new power supply then?

 

[Tyranix95]

Ok, so I went back and measured with the multimeter again (no load, of course), and when the knob is adjusted to where you get 5.02 out of the +5 line, you only get 9.92 out of the +12 line. Time for a new power supply then?

Maybe not.

When I unload (disconnect) everything from my HAPP PSU, and measure the power at the HAPP PSU's 9 pin molex conneter, and I adjust the +5V line down to 5.02V, then I get similar MM readings.

RED +5V lines: 5.02V
WHITE -5V line: -5.05
YELLOW +12V line: 10.04

Of course, as soon as I load (connect) something to the PSU lines, these MM readings change.

 

[Tyranix95]

...

...

...

...

Was the 9 pin molex connector in in PIC#4 ever connected to connected to the 9 pin molex connector in the bottom of PIC#3?

I ask because when I look at PIC#1, the 9 pin molex connector is not dangling. So, it looks like it's connected to something. And, I'm thinking it's the 9 pin molex connector in the bottom of PIC#3.

I also ask because when I look at PIC#2, the wires connected to that 9 pin molex connector in PIC#3 look like these lead strait back to top power supply.

 

[Billkwando]

Maybe not.

When I unload (disconnect) everything from my HAPP PSU, and measure the power at the HAPP PSU's 9 pin molex conneter, and I adjust the +5V line down to 5.02V, then I get similar MM readings.

RED +5V lines: 5.02V
WHITE -5V line: -5.05
YELLOW +12V line: 10.04

Of course, as soon as I load (connect) something to the PSU lines, these MM readings change.

Awesome. Alas, I don't think I have the right connectors to test it. The jamma connector has a 6 pin molex onnector that's wired directly to the upper psu.

I think I figured it out. It looks like the BIG BLACK PSU on the bottom is the primary PSU. And the PSU on the top is the secondary PSU.

The way I see it. The power chord, the ON/OFF SWITCH and the ISO-TRANS all are all connected to the BIG BLACK PSU.

So, it looks to me like the bottom PSU may be powering the top PSU; and, the top PSU may be powering the game board.

I'm sorry man. That I was already clear on. I guess I should've explained it better. 'cept the power switch has no effect on the psu, just the monitor.