The art of PCB Cleaning: Which method is the safest and effective?

[lowlight]

Hi all,

I'm relatively new to this hobby and have gotten well on my way with several purchases made here and elsewhere of various types of PCBs during the past month. However, since many of the PCBs I've recieved aren't too clean (moderatley dusty and a little grimy in some places), I decided to research the forums here to find out if there was one (or at least very few) tried-and-true methods of cleaning mulitple PCBs safely and effective to restore as much luster and functionality as possible. After searching, I came up with a lot of information concerning this issue and some helpful links as well (especially the one for MVS contact cleaning at HardMVS). Unfortunately, for every one encouraging idea that was presented in threads I found, there were at least two other negative criticisms of the idea that made me take pause. I've listed below a condensed version of all of the info I've gathered (There were a lot of variations of the same method, so I tried to tie them all together where applicable) concerning my question:

• Using hot running water/distilled water/(filtered water - Perrier was mentioned) and a toothbrush/scour pad (Scotch Brite was mentioned, I believe), lightly scour the surface of the board (both sides), towel dry, and then thoroughly blow dry and/or dry in an oven set to 75 degrees (farenheight).
  
  
• Using a clean dishwasher (free of food debris and other foreign substances), run soiled boards on a very hot cycle (Pots-&-Pans setting I assume?) and also set it to dry-assist (as opposed to "drip-dry"). Repeat as necessary (up to five times?). Also remove any power storing components and capacitors from the board prior to washing.
  
  
• Using an electronics cleaner (possibly the one suggested at HardMVS), and a toothbrush/scour pad (Scotch Brite was mentioned, I believe), lightly scour the board (both sides) and blow away any loosened debris with canned air. Lightly apply WD-40 to protect and seal (I guess this can apply to all methods?).

Now, I know that there were a few fringe methods mentioned, but I tried to keep to the ideas that seemed to come up the most often. So based on what's listed above, which of these methods, if any, would everyone here agree on being the most safest & effective methods for cleaning multiple PCBs of any kind at a time? If the water methods are the best (either one), is it okay to do if you live in an area with Hard Water; would calcium and other minerals effect boards over time? How long can PCBs be fully submerged within water? Regardless of how the board is cleaned/restored, is it advisable to use WD-40 (or something simmilar) on the entire board, or everything but the connectors (I read somewhere that such a chemical could be a detriment to a good connection)? Please feel free to give any insight/opinions on this question, as it will definitely help keep newbies like myself from ruining a good board. TIA!

 

[channelmaniac]

I used to work for a grey market Apple repair depot and we used the dishwasher method: Hot water wash with NO soap or other additives (Jet Dry, etc...)

No need to remove caps - just the batteries.

Don't use the heated dry cycle. That heating element may melt plastic things like battery holders. It's like putting a plastic glass that says "top rack dishwasher safe" on the bottom rack. It melts. Just let it drip try and sit on edge for 24 hours and it'll be fine.

We did hundreds of boards from Apple II+ through some of the Mac Quadras that way and never had any issues. We had good water, not real soft and not real hard... just average water.

RJ

 

[DaemoN]

Dishwasher =

Done it a million times with 100% success ratio.

Remove batteries and, if you're anal, socketed chips. Dry it with a towel, then a hairdryer and let it 'air' for a day. Should be OK :-)

 

[lowlight]

I used to work for a grey market Apple repair depot and we used the dishwasher method: Hot water wash with NO soap or other additives (Jet Dry, etc...)

No need to remove caps - just the batteries.

Don't use the heated dry cycle. That heating element may melt plastic things like battery holders. It's like putting a plastic glass that says "top rack dishwasher safe" on the bottom rack. It melts. Just let it drip try and sit on edge for 24 hours and it'll be fine...

RJ

Wonderful to hear, thank you both for your replies so far on this. So, basically (I know I'm repeating here, but I just want to make sure I have this right) I'd need to do the following:

1. Remove any batteries (and possibly socketed chips) from the soiled boards and place in clean & detergent/additive free dishwasher.
   
   
2. Set the Dishwasher settings (In my case, a GE Quiet Profile II) to wash settings of either "Normal" or "Rinse and Hold". Set temperature controls to "HI-Temp Wash" and "HI-Temp Rinse", and disable the "Heated Dry" option. Start the dishwasher.
   
   
3. After the dishwasher has completed its run, leave the board(s) in the washer to dry naturally (drip-dry?) for 24 hours.
   
   
4. After drying has completed, replace any removed batteries (socketed chips if removed), and the board should be GTG.

So, "Hard-Water" shouldn't have any effect then on the components on the boards? I know it's pretty hard, since we often have to use CLR on the resevoir holder of our refrigerator's water dispensor. Also, should any extra consideration be made for older, sandwidged boards like Elevator Action that have ribbon cables connecting them together? Keep the info coming

 

[DaemoN]

Don't leave them to dry INSIDE the dishwasher.

Remove them and "wave/shake" them in the air to remove the water.
Dry the board(s) with a towel and then dry it some more with a hairdryer.

Then leave the board(s) to dry for 24h somewhere safe.

Nice super shiny minty fresh boards :-)

 

[lowlight]

Don't leave them to dry INSIDE the dishwasher.

Remove them and "wave/shake" them in the air to remove the water.
Dry the board(s) with a towel and then dry it some more with a hairdryer.

Then leave the board(s) to dry for 24h somewhere safe.

Nice super shiny minty fresh boards :-)

Okay, what's the difference between drip drying (outside of the washer) and hand drying/blow drying, is one more effective than the other? I only ask because Channelmaniac commented that drip drying was fine.

 

[channelmaniac]

We just left the door to the dishwasher open with the tray extended outwards overnight to let the air hit them & dry them...

You can do a hair dryer if you want to. It won't hurt anything. Just DO NOT use a heat gun.

RJ

 

[DaemoN]

Some components (like some dip switches, board 'test' buttons) contain iron. If you let it drip dry, they can rust and then you'll have to replace them. Manually drying most of the water avoids this in 99.99% cases!

 

[lowlight]

We just left the door to the dishwasher open with the tray extended outwards overnight to let the air hit them & dry them...

You can do a hair dryer if you want to. It won't hurt anything. Just DO NOT use a heat gun.

RJ

So is rust not a problem then? I know this is getting redundant, but this is the one issue (other than the hardwater thing that I still haven't seen adressed) that kept going back and forth. Those same boards, from your experience, never had any rust or mineral deposit buildup/issues then? I don't have a blowdryer available, and yes, while I could go and pick one up, I'd rather not if issues like rust won't be an issue (air drying sounds much more appealing to me). So, which is it?

 

[white castle]

I have never had a problem leaving batteries on pcbs in the dishwasher. I also use jet dry, and I run them through 2 hot drying cycles. I use them right when the second drying cycle is done. It is probably safer to let them air dry, but i am impatient and have never had a problem.

 

[lowlight]

I see

Thanks for the replies on this...I guess either way you dry, the dishwasher will still be safe. I appreciate the help.

 

[werejag]

i use the dishwasher method also but i dry in the oven at 200 degres for 1hr

 

[lowlight]

WD-40 after a washing?

...Or is doing that a bit excessive? I tried re-researching WD-40 usage since I saw it come up, but I'm not very familliar with the stuff. What's the proper way to use this on a cleansed board and should you avoid applying it to the contacts of a board? Any thoughts obviously welcome .

 

[channelmaniac]

WD-40 is penetrating oil. I would use it on metal but NEVER on a circuit board.

 

[norton9478]

WD-40 is penetrating oil. I would use it on metal but NEVER on a circuit board.

WD=WATER DISPLACEMENT.

I use it on edge connectors and PCB contacts....

And on my Distributor cap when it's damp outside.

 

[DaemoN]

Never ever use WD-40 or any type of oils on your PCBs.

 

[norton9478]

Never ever use WD-40 or any type of oils on your PCBs.

Doesn't it all dissipate?

It would also be good in IC sockets.

 

[DaemoN]

NO NO NO NO

WD-40 is not meant to lubricate electronics! WD-40 is good for mechanical parts, not electronics!

It would NOT be good on IC sockets!

Just make sure everything is CLEAN, that's all you need. Clean parts = good contacts = PCBs will work fine.

If your edge connectors are dark/dirty, use a pencil eraser on them. They'll be as good as new. If your IC socket is dirty, use a dremel tool with a SOFT wire brush to clean them up. Rubbing them with isopropyl alcohol and a Q-Tip will do no harm either, and it helps removing deposits and finger oils.

 

[norton9478]

NO NO NO NO

WD-40 is not meant to lubricate electronics! WD-40 is good for mechanical parts, not electronics!

It would NOT be good on IC sockets!

Just make sure everything is CLEAN, that's all you need. Clean parts = good contacts = PCBs will work fine.

If your edge connectors are dark/dirty, use a pencil eraser on them. They'll be as good as new. If your IC socket is dirty, use a dremel tool with a SOFT wire brush to clean them up. Rubbing them with isopropyl alcohol and a Q-Tip will do no harm either, and it helps removing deposits and finger oils.

I don't know if you know what you are talking about.

WD-40 does much more than Libricate Shit. It is a Anti-Corosive protectorant. It also helps conduct. It also displaces water.

It also can be used to knock down bees.

Pencil eraser method is ass since:
1. It hyperexposes the contacts to outside elements.
2. It is messy.
3. It overwears the contacts.
4. It leaves non conductive residue and other shit behind.

 

[DaemoN]

I don't know if you know what you are talking about.

WD-40 does much more than Libricate Shit. It is a Anti-Corosive protectorant. It also helps conduct. It also displaces water.

It also can be used to knock down bees.

Pencil eraser method is ass since:
1. It hyperexposes the contacts to outside elements.
2. It is messy.
3. It overwears the contacts.
4. It leaves non conductive residue and other shit behind.

1. WTF are you on about? You're just cleaning the contacts, not removing the plating.
2. Maybe, if you have monkey paws.
3. We're using soft rubber, not sandpaper.
4. That's why you use isopropyl alcohol after, to remove any residues.

"WD-40 is anti-corrosive and it displaces water."

You're not using your boards underwater or under the rain, are you? Again, it's good for MECHANICAL PARTS. Using oils (and WD-40 is also flammable) on arcade PCBs or any sort of electronics is a no-no. There's no reason AT all to do it. Keep your boards and contacts clean, and your electronics will be FINE.

"WD-40 helps conduct."

Of course, it's conductive. Why would you want to squirt any sort of conductive oils on your PCBs? To risk shorting something? To damage your hardware?

 

[norton9478]

1. WTF are you on about? You're just cleaning the contacts, not removing the plating.
2. Maybe, if you have monkey paws.
3. We're using soft rubber, not sandpaper.
4. That's why you use isopropyl alcohol after, to remove any residues.

WD-40 is anti-corrosive and it displaces water. You're not using your boards underwater or under the rain, are you? Again, it's good for MECHANICAL PARTS. Using oils (and WD-40 is also flammable) on arcade PCBs or any sort of electronics is a no-no. There's no reason AT all to do it. Keep your boards and contacts clean, and your electronics will be FINE.

I store my PCB's in the garage. It gets damp in there from time to time. I like my shit to be protected.

The flammable part goes away in a few minutes. Much quicker than water/oil.

 

[DaemoN]

I store my PCB's in the garage. It gets damp in there from time to time. I like my shit to be protected.

The flammable part goes away in a few minutes. Much quicker than water/oil.

Store them somewhere else. Put them inside boxes.

Keeping boards in damp places = bad
Squirting WD-40 on PCBs = bad

Basically, you found two ways to ruin your game boards, congratulations.

Much quicker than water/oil.

BUT IT IS OIL!

I'm done with this silly argument already. I guess all my electronics study was wrong afterall!

 

[norton9478]

Store them somewhere else. Put them inside boxes.

Keeping boards in damp places = bad
Squirting WD-40 on PCBs = bad

Basically, you found two ways to ruin your game boards, congratulations.

I'm done with this silly argument already. I guess all my electronics study was wrong afterall!

So what does WD-40 do that is so bad?

 

[DaemoN]

So what does WD-40 do that is so bad?

Is this some kind of joke? Are you just trolling to create some sort of flame war?

For the last time:
* it's flammable (and it doesnt evaporate in a few secs)
* it's an oil (and while it repels water, it attracts dust and becomes a sticky gunk)
* it's conductive (you could short your boards)
* it's hydrocarbon based and thus it can melt and deteriorate some components with phenol substrates like potentiometers or certain kinds of plastics
* etc etc etc

 

[lowlight]

guys..

Daemon & Norton, I just want to thank you both for your insight on this. Of course, I wasn't looking to insight any types of arguements over the WD-40 topic, I just needed a better understanding of why some members use it (other than Norton, a few others have mentioned its use), and why some strongly urge against its use. Both points have been well taken, and I do apologize for stirring anything up between the two of you.

That being said, I recently went to RadioShack to pick up the cleaner that was mentioned here and at HardMVS. The two stores in my area didn't have it in stock at all, but instead had this product (see pic below):

Has anyone here used this, or either one in part only (I have the older version, apparently called "DetoxIT/ProGold Kit" instead)? I assume that the ProGold/DetoxIT Gold portion of the kit would be simmilar to WD-40? Any insight is always welcome