New Neogeo Wireless Joystick Controller

[Jasen Hicks]

Morpheus PCBs landed tonight! Cut the cords, maximize compatibility! Morpheus works with NEO-GEO/SUPERGUNS/PCs/PS3.

PS3 Compatibility is in beta testing mode as of this writing but it will be available within 2 weeks as we work the bugs out. Video Demos coming soon!

$59.95 for the system. Transmitter Batteries not included.

https://jasenscustoms.com/Morpheus-Wireless-SuperGun-NEO-GEO-PC-PS3-Controllers.html

 

[Xian Xi]

Forgot to ask, for the transmitter side does the 3.7v battery pack only power the transmitter or is there a DC-DC converter to give the DB15 +5v for controllers that require them or is there a header that takes care of that with another external battery?

 

[Jasen Hicks]

That's an excellent question. I'm so used to sticks not requiring the +5V I didn't think about it. Hopefully Mike can shed some light on it. I unfortunately dont have a stick/pad that requires the +5V to test it out.

I'll make a video showing them off tomorrow so that I can cover all of the features and ins/outs of the boards as well as do a test of range. I did a quick range test yesterday but the battery was low and I was constrained by basement geometry!

 

[mikew]

Forgot to ask, for the transmitter side does the 3.7v battery pack only power the transmitter or is there a DC-DC converter to give the DB15 +5v for controllers that require them or is there a header that takes care of that with another external battery?

Hi Xian Xi, The transmitter can power the active circuitry in Neogeo NGCD controllers if that's what you mean. I'm not aware of any other Jamma related joysticks that require power. I actually have some code and custom cables to host and power NES joypads but since that's sort of out of scope for this thread I never mentioned it.

 

[Xian Xi]

Hi Xian Xi, The transmitter can power the active circuitry in Neogeo NGCD controllers if that's what you mean. I'm not aware of any other Jamma related joysticks that require power. I actually have some code and custom cables to host and power NES joypads but since that's sort of out of scope for this thread I never mentioned it.

What is the current limit? I was asking more towards people who use converters that are powered by the +5v line. I have some customers who use a Saturn to Neo Geo converter that uses the godlikecontrols FGW widget PCB and others that use the tototek PSX to Neo converters.

 

[GohanX]

A stick made for multiple consoles may require it. I have a stick with several pcbs and a db15 port, the Neo won't work if 5v isn't connected to power the unused pcbs.

 

[mikew]

What is the current limit? I was asking more towards people who use converters that are powered by the +5v line. I have some customers who use a Saturn to Neo Geo converter that uses the godlikecontrols FGW widget PCB and others that use the tototek PSX to Neo converters.

This was initially designed for the Neo and extended to support custom supergun sticks which may use all the buttons on the somewhat standard DB15 supergun wiring scheme. How it would handle converters or other custom circuitry attached is unknown. The regulator is rated at 800ma if your batteries are up to the task but I wouldn't recommend using this device for other purposes besides the usage cases I mentioned above.

 

[Xian Xi]

This was initially designed for the Neo and extended to support custom supergun sticks which may use all the buttons on the somewhat standard DB15 supergun wiring scheme. How it would handle converters or other custom circuitry attached is unknown. The regulator is rated at 800ma if your batteries are up to the task but I wouldn't recommend using this device for other purposes besides the usage cases I mentioned above.

Easily modded. For the end user just DC the +5v line on board and connect a different source or they can put in a switch. 800mA is probably more than enough to run them but may need more capacity for longer play time if using it that way.

 

[mikew]

Easily modded. For the end user just DC the +5v line on board and connect a different source or they can put in a switch. 800mA is probably more than enough to run them but may need more capacity for longer play time if using it that way.

It's regulated down to 3.3v so you would need something like this on the DC line: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=281219304644

 

[massimiliano]

Hi Jasen, I would buy a set, but first I have some question:

the link is only about the Tx/Rx PCBs? do I need other items like battery pack and cables? If so could you please post links for everything needed to get a working solution?

..dumb question, but just to be sure, is the USB port used only for updates or also as a PC controller?


Thanks!

Massi

P.s. your mailbox is full!

 

[xsq]

Really cool to see this succeed. Thank you Mike/Jasen!

 

[Jasen Hicks]

Hi Jasen, I would buy a set, but first I have some question:

the link is only about the Tx/Rx PCBs? do I need other items like battery pack and cables? If so could you please post links for everything needed to get a working solution?

..dumb question, but just to be sure, is the USB port used only for updates or also as a PC controller?


Thanks!

Massi

P.s. your mailbox is full!

Sorry, Inbox is clear now.

The only thing you need to complete the set is a battery and potentially a DB15 connector for the Transmitter **IF** you are using it inside a stick (I have these in stock as solderless solutions). I have a few batteries I sourced as add-on items. I haven't added it to the shop yet.... its on my list of things to finish up today. I wanted to provide the kit with the flexibility for the end user to do what they needed. Some folks may not want LiIon batteries, some may have one from an cell phone, etc.

Jasen

 

[massimiliano]

Thanks for your reply, I understand the receiver has to be re-programmed in order to shift from NEO to PC mode.

Question is , I have a custom USB Joystick, using a dual-strike PCB from arcadeforge:

I would keep it as USB HID interface for PC (via cable) and use the wireless part for Neo.

If I split the buttons contacts both dual-strike and the receiver, could I use the joystick on both (alternatively)?


Or would it be simpler to buy 2 receivers?

Thanks!

Massi

 

[mikew]

Thanks for your reply, I understand the receiver has to be re-programmed in order to shift from NEO to PC mode.

Question is , I have a custom USB Joystick, using a dual-strike PCB from arcadeforge:

I would keep it as USB HID interface for PC (via cable) and use the wireless part for Neo.

If I split the buttons contacts both dual-strike and the receiver, could I use the joystick on both (alternatively)?


Or would it be simpler to buy 2 receivers?

Thanks!

Massi

Hi Massi,

When you say "alternatively" do you mean only having one powered at a time? If so, you could have both wired internally with the buttons split to each. To isolate the two you might want to have 2 external USB connections. One just for charging the wireless unit and the other completely isolated to power the dual-strike. In the case of just one usb connector you could also have a physical switch that controls the VBUS +5v line of the USB cable.

Mike

 

[massimiliano]

Hi Massi,

When you say "alternatively" do you mean only having one powered at a time? If so, you could have both wired internally with the buttons split to each. To isolate the two you might want to have 2 external USB connections. One just for charging the wireless unit and the other completely isolated to power the dual-strike. In the case of just one usb connector you could also have a physical switch that controls the VBUS +5v line of the USB cable.

Mike

hi Mike, thanks for your reply, yes I meant PC OR Neo condition.

I.e., plugging the USB cable (charging the battery*) while playing on PC/PS3.

then unplug the USB cable from PC, turn on Neo and play wirelessly with the same stick.

In the above case, is still the power switch required? *Would a laptop USB port suffer for charging the battery and the dual-strike PCB at same time?


Another point is installing the wireless Rx directly into the AES console...that would be *cool*, I would ask if there are some caveats, trying to keep legacy wired setup and the new wireless feature.

Thanks for your patience!

 

[mikew]

hi Mike, thanks for your reply, yes I meant PC OR Neo condition.

I.e., plugging the USB cable (charging the battery*) while playing on PC/PS3.

then unplug the USB cable from PC, turn on Neo and play wirelessly with the same stick.

In the above case, is still the power switch required? *Would a laptop USB port suffer for charging the battery and the dual-strike PCB at same time?


Another point is installing the wireless Rx directly into the AES console...that would be *cool*, I would ask if there are some caveats, trying to keep legacy wired setup and the new wireless feature.

Thanks for your patience!

Hi Massi,

The issue here is that the transmitter will be running and charging when USB is connected, sorry I don't think I ever mentioned that. The transmitter can actually be powered a few different ways and I'll outline them here:

Li-Po 3.7v battery on JST connector
Up to 12v DC on 3.5mm screw terminal
Mini USB cable
+5V on the Programming header
+5V on the DB15 Power Rail

Power to any of those inputs will activate the transmitter. Regarding internally mounting inside an AES, I think this would work OK although I haven't tested it I have tested using two receivers on the Jamma connector on an MVS and also having wired joysticks connected. This worked OK and would be similar to what you are suggesting.

 

[massimiliano]

Hi Massi,

The issue here is that the transmitter will be running and charging when USB is connected, sorry I don't think I ever mentioned that. The transmitter can actually be powered a few different ways and I'll outline them here:

Li-Po 3.7v battery on JST connector
Up to 12v DC on 3.5mm screw terminal
Mini USB cable
+5V on the Programming header
+5V on the DB15 Power Rail

Power to any of those inputs will activate the transmitter. Regarding internally mounting inside an AES, I think this would work OK although I haven't tested it I have tested using two receivers on the Jamma connector on an MVS and also having wired joysticks connected. This worked OK and would be similar to what you are suggesting.

Thanks Mike,

so if I understand correctly, as soon as the receiver (AES) is off, the only issue using the dual-strike USB +5v, is that it will power two devices.

so, last info I need is, how many ampere will the Morpheus drain while charging(&transmitting)?

Thanks!

 

[mikew]

Thanks Mike,

so if I understand correctly, as soon as the receiver (AES) is off, the only issue using the dual-strike USB +5v, is that it will power two devices.

so, last info I need is, how many ampere will the Morpheus drain while charging(&transmitting)?

Thanks!

>>so if I understand correctly, as soon as the receiver (AES) is off, the only issue using the dual-strike USB +5v, is that it will power two devices.

I'm not sure if I understand the correlation between the receiver being off and the TX unit being powered by USB. Could you explain what you mean?

The charging IC can use up to 500ma but I have not seen that, I think the absolute worse case would be 250ma -300ma with charging and transmitting. In all of my testing I have never had an over-current situation on a USB port but the most I've had loading the circuit was charging and a Neogeo NGCD joypad.

I wouldn't consider the TX unit a power supply for additional devices nor would I suggest daisy chaining usb devices. This device was designed to be on its own USB connection and it's performance and reliability were tested in this configuration only. You can think of it like daisy chaining your mobile phone and some other current consuming device on the same port and for good reason that's not even physically possible. When devices are designed to consume more current than available on one port they usually provide a secondary USB power connector to eliminate these issue and having the second connector installed would essentially give you this capability. Maybe a future version could incorporate the dual strike functionality to the TX boards to solve issues like this. From a product perspective the RX unit has the ability to do this already but doesn't have battery charging hardware built-in.

 

[massimiliano]

>>so if I understand correctly, as soon as the receiver (AES) is off, the only issue using the dual-strike USB +5v, is that it will power two devices.

I'm not sure if I understand the correlation between the receiver being off and the TX unit being powered by USB. Could you explain what you mean?

The charging IC can use up to 500ma but I have not seen that, I think the absolute worse case would be 250ma -300ma with charging and transmitting. In all of my testing I have never had an over-current situation on a USB port but the most I've had loading the circuit was charging and a Neogeo NGCD joypad.

I wouldn't consider the TX unit a power supply for additional devices nor would I suggest daisy chaining usb devices. This device was designed to be on its own USB connection and it's performance and reliability were tested in this configuration only. You can think of it like daisy chaining your mobile phone and some other current consuming device on the same port and for good reason that's not even physically possible. When devices are designed to consume more current than available on one port they usually provide a secondary USB power connector to eliminate these issue and having the second connector installed would essentially give you this capability. Maybe a future version could incorporate the dual strike functionality to the TX boards to solve issues like this. From a product perspective the RX unit has the ability to do this already but doesn't have battery charging hardware built-in.

I Mike, sorry for the confusion, but I think you answered my question.

Basically, the idea is to have a Joystick I can use on both PC (wired via USB cable and dual-strike) and AES (wirelessly, using your PCB).

As the Morpheus Tx has to be recharged (and anyway will transmit independently that the Rx is on or off) , my plan was to indeed daisy-chain the power: PC--(USB)-->dual-strike/Morpheus

I don't like neither the idea of stressing the PC USB port draining too many mA (Apple doesn't even declared the supported amperage btw).

So, probably the best way to proceed is to remove the dualstrike, having a single Tx on the Joystick, which can recharge trough teh USB cable using a simple iPhone recharger, and assign a dedicated receiver to PC(USB plugged) and another one inside AES

Of course, if using the PC Rx I have to turn off the AES one and viceversa.


in such scenario, I I buy 2 Rx and 1 Tx, do I have to reprogram the Tx or do a special procedure every time I have to move from PC to AES?



Edit:

..or as you suggested, a simple selector on the dual-strike +5V would do the trick, allowing dual-strike OR morpheus mode, but not both at the same time.

 

[mikew]

I Mike, sorry for the confusion, but I think you answered my question.

Basically, the idea is to have a Joystick I can use on both PC (wired via USB cable and dual-strike) and AES (wirelessly, using your PCB).

As the Morpheus Tx has to be recharged (and anyway will transmit independently that the Rx is on or off) , my plan was to indeed daisy-chain the power: PC--(USB)-->dual-strike/Morpheus

I don't like neither the idea of stressing the PC USB port draining too many mA (Apple doesn't even declared the supported amperage btw).

So, probably the best way to proceed is to remove the dualstrike, having a single Tx on the Joystick, which can recharge trough teh USB cable using a simple iPhone recharger, and assign a dedicated receiver to PC(USB plugged) and another one inside AES

Of course, if using the PC Rx I have to turn off the AES one and viceversa.


in such scenario, I I buy 2 Rx and 1 Tx, do I have to reprogram the Tx or do a special procedure every time I have to move from PC to AES?



Edit:

..or as you suggested, a simple selector on the dual-strike +5V would do the trick, allowing dual-strike OR morpheus mode, but not both at the same time.

Man, you are one thorough person! That's what I like best about this forum, it's often more engineering then gaming ( and I love every second of it )

>>So, probably the best way to proceed is to remove the dualstrike, having a single Tx on the Joystick, which can recharge trough teh USB cable using a simple iPhone recharger, and assign a dedicated receiver to PC(USB plugged) and another one inside AES

Yes, this is ideal.

>>Of course, if using the PC Rx I have to turn off the AES one and viceversa.

No, you can leave both on but set to two different channels. The design supports up to 4 channels.

>>in such scenario, I I buy 2 Rx and 1 Tx, do I have to reprogram the Tx or do a special procedure every time I have to move from PC to AES?

No, the transmitter firmware is the same for PC,Neo,Jamma and soon PS3. The receiver on the other hand needs to be flashed into either Jamma mode or USB mode, this is done over usb and is a very quick process. You can of course switch back to Jamma mode just as easy. They come shipped in Jamma mode but if needed I'm sure Jasen could flash it into USB mode before shipping.

>>
..or as you suggested, a simple selector on the dual-strike +5V would do the trick, allowing dual-strike OR morpheus mode, but not both at the same time.

Exactly

 

[mikew]

>>Of course, if using the PC Rx I have to turn off the AES one and viceversa.
No, you can leave both on but set to two different channels. The design supports up to 4 channels.

Actually.. This is only possible if you have 2 TX units since the receivers are set to 2 different channels. Sorry for overlooking that.

 

[kuze]

Nice to see these are available! Glad to see the price has stayed the same. I'll be putting in an order asap!

 

[Jasen Hicks]

I look forward to it Kuze! I have a video that I am currently processing that shows how well the beta Firmware for PS3 works and demonstrates how well these work at great distances. Once its done, Ill post a link here on the thread!

Jasen

 

[Jasen Hicks]

All,

Here is the Wireless Stress Test I did using the Morpheus setup and some beta firmware that supports PS3. The results are pretty nice! Please note that as I clacked away at buttons RYU starts doing some moves so the button inputs were meaningless since he was in the middle of a grab or something. Watch the left part of the screen and you will see that inputs are still incoming :-D

 

[kuze]

How much is a 3.7v li-on battery with the Morpheus from your shop?