Ok update. I got the 2600 working (I had the wrong cable plugged in), but the Intellivision is still in B&W. No clue why. Is there anything special about the composite on these monitors?
Ok update. I got the 2600 working (I had the wrong cable plugged in), but the Intellivision is still in B&W. No clue why. Is there anything special about the composite on these monitors?
Hi. Is there a pal or ntsc option on your monitor or in the menu? I've had B&W screens on some of my monitors in the past which I have resolved by switching between pal or ntsc...
Hi. Is there a pal or ntsc option on your monitor or in the menu? I've had B&W screens on some of my monitors in the past which I have resolved by switching between pal or ntsc...
So being new to this forum and checking out the sweetness of crt's, I took it upon myself to get a Nec 3PG. Any advise on what to buy to hook my neo geo up to this beast?
Then you'll need the NEO GEO SCART cable itself. Normally you can get them off from retro_console_accessories on ebay but it seems like shes not taking any orders at the moment.
So if I buy the one with the sync stripper, do I still need to buy the sync strike? On eBay, I see a SNK brand scart cable. Will that cable work? Or would I be better off buying just a no name scart cable?
So weirdly enough, I purchased a Sony 40xbr800 from an older gentleman up in wood river. All I got to say ill have to find other people to help me move it whenever I decide to move.
So if I buy the one with the sync stripper, do I still need to buy the sync strike? On eBay, I see a SNK brand scart cable. Will that cable work? Or would I be better off buying just a no name scart cable?
Looks like she was only gone for a day but she's back now. Just buy the one she makes. Probably way cheaper than the official neo geo ones and work just as good.
So if I buy the one with the sync stripper, do I still need to buy the sync strike? On eBay, I see a SNK brand scart cable. Will that cable work? Or would I be better off buying just a no name scart cable?
1. It provides power to the stripper unit for those systems that don't automatically provide it through the SCART cable (my Genesis for example)
2. It provides audio breakout for the SCART cable
3. It provides a nice and easy SCART interface for those CRTs that don't have a SCART socket on them. For my PVM all I need is a BNC to DB-15 cable and I'm good to go.
Thought I'd follow this up with a few pics of my current "setup". When I got the parcel I almost had a heart attack because there wasn't any cushioning material at all... I made a video while "unpacking" to have evidence in case there were any issues, but thankfully (and to my surprise) the screen survived undamaged.
I'm very pleased with this monitor, the picture is sharp, the colors pop and the scanlines are pronounced enough but not too intense (sorry for the shitty pics, my camera sucks), the size is also right for me. Convergence looks good. I'm just missing a few pixels (3 rows?) at the bottom, maybe I'll eventually open it up and try to adjust the scan, but it doesn't bother me really. I've also turned down the contrast and brightness slightly since I took these...
Spoiler:
[QUESTIONS:]
This model has a build in speaker that is decent enough for a few quick rounds or if I'm gaming with a friend. I'll just have to build a small converter to mix down the two stereo channels to one mono out - the way I figure this'll work is that I connect the two signal lines each with 4,7 kOhm resistors to the mono line and ground stays ground. Is this correct?
[I came up with this looking at the "Stereo-to-Mono Summing Box" in this handy article: Why Not Wye?. I might be overlooking something obvious, but why does the diagram show both signal lines connected to ground with a 20k resistor?]
I'd also like to be able to hook up stereo headphones for when I'm alone and am doing longer gaming sessions. I know the simplest solution would be to just buy a pair of stereo speakers with headphone out, but I'd like to keep this setup as minimalistic (space wise) as possible. It'd be great if I could implement a headphone amp into the "Summing Box", because the signal most consoles put out is not really loud enough to drive my headphones (otherwise I'd just solder in a potentiometer and a headphone jack). I know about the Objective2 DIY amp (which is easily adapted to work with a mains adapter instead of batteries), but was wondering if anyone knew another (possibly cheaper and not as "high end") solution...
Oh, and while I'm at it, here's some pics of my old Screen, a Sony Trinitron KV-21T3D.
Spoiler:
I really wouldn't recommend this model and I never got it set up to put out a decent picture (I think that shows in the photos). You can only change the settings via the remote when you're using the tuner or supply a composite signal - once you change to RGB (which you have to select manually everytime as well by pressing the aux button twice, otherwise it'll show composite) the picture shifts and changes colors. So you're basically adjusting the RGB picture blind, hoping the changes you make will be right. This also means that if you're going for a good RGB picture, the composite picture you're seeing while adjusting will be shifted and looking bad. You also have to switch off your RGB source while using composite/tuner, otherwise the menu won't be readable because the picture is running. The service mode can only be reached by a entering a code on the remote while the TV is in standby, which adds to the fun... the particular unit I was using also had a very loud flyback (so it won't be running for much longer I think) and the convergence was already going bad.
Had some fun times with it anyway, but now it's time to part... good riddance I guess.
Thought I'd follow this up with a few pics of my current "setup". When I got the parcel I almost had a heart attack because there wasn't any cushioning material at all... I made a video while "unpacking" to have evidence in case there were any issues, but thankfully (and to my surprise) the screen survived undamaged.
I'm very pleased with this monitor, the picture is sharp, the colors pop and the scanlines are pronounced enough but not too intense (sorry for the shitty pics, my camera sucks), the size is also right for me. Convergence looks good. I'm just missing a few pixels (3 rows?) at the bottom, maybe I'll eventually open it up and try to adjust the scan, but it doesn't bother me really. I've also turned down the contrast and brightness slightly since I took these...
Spoiler:
[QUESTIONS:]
This model has a build in speaker that is decent enough for a few quick rounds or if I'm gaming with a friend. I'll just have to build a small converter to mix down the two stereo channels to one mono out - the way I figure this'll work is that I connect the two signal lines each with 4,7 kOhm resistors to the mono line and ground stays ground. Is this correct?
[I came up with this looking at the "Stereo-to-Mono Summing Box" in this handy article: Why Not Wye?. I might be overlooking something obvious, but why does the diagram show both signal lines connected to ground with a 20k resistor?]
I'd also like to be able to hook up stereo headphones for when I'm alone and am doing longer gaming sessions. I know the simplest solution would be to just buy a pair of stereo speakers with headphone out, but I'd like to keep this setup as minimalistic (space wise) as possible. It'd be great if I could implement a headphone amp into the "Summing Box", because the signal most consoles put out is not really loud enough to drive my headphones (otherwise I'd just solder in a potentiometer and a headphone jack). I know about the Objective2 DIY amp (which is easily adapted to work with a mains adapter instead of batteries), but was wondering if anyone knew another (possibly cheaper and not as "high end") solution...
Oh, and while I'm at it, here's some pics of my old Screen, a Sony Trinitron KV-21T3D.
Spoiler:
I really wouldn't recommend this model and I never got it set up to put out a decent picture (I think that shows in the photos). You can only change the settings via the remote when you're using the tuner or supply a composite signal - once you change to RGB (which you have to select manually everytime as well by pressing the aux button twice, otherwise it'll show composite) the picture shifts and changes colors. So you're basically adjusting the RGB picture blind, hoping the changes you make will be right. This also means that if you're going for a good RGB picture, the composite picture you're seeing while adjusting will be shifted and looking bad. You also have to switch off your RGB source while using composite/tuner, otherwise the menu won't be readable because the picture is running. The service mode can only be reached by a entering a code on the remote while the TV is in standby, which adds to the fun... the particular unit I was using also had a very loud flyback (so it won't be running for much longer I think) and the convergence was already going bad.
Had some fun times with it anyway, but now it's time to part... good riddance I guess.
For the sound issue, I recently picked up a cheap mid 80's stereo amp. Has 8ohm speaker outputs and a headphone jack. Not hard to find and does a superb job.
For the headphones, look at headphones with an integrated amp. I use a Turtle Beach PS3 headset a lot, it has a headphone jack for audio input and a USB port for power, so it can take line level audio and amplify it.
pictures off a sony kx29hv3 taken by a friend who lives in japan , this monitor looks like a pvm 2930qm but is much better, the thing does 800 lines of resolution(the 2930qm has only 620, right?), have amazing black leves and a bunch of rgb inputs in the back, i really doubt that other thing can do better images at this big
pictures off a sony kx29hv3 taken by a friend who lives in japan , this monitor looks like a pvm 2930qm but is much better, the thing does 800 lines of resolution(the 2930qm has only 620, right?), have amazing black leves and a bunch of rgb inputs in the back, i really doubt that other thing can do better images at this big
Wish I had permission to see those pics Lol..
Anyways I finally got my formerly broken NEC XP29 Plus up and running so if the forum lets me I'll post some pics
Wish I had permission to see those pics Lol..
Anyways I finally got my formerly broken NEC XP29 Plus up and running so if the forum lets me I'll post some pics