Uhh, what?
No offense, but how does Skips (not the user, the guy in his avatar & in this post. He's from Regular Show.) look ANYTHING like a sumo wrestler? Your insults are pretty bad, to say the least.
anyone giving me a hard time is going to be getting equal measures of the same in return.
But you are right about one thing, this thread needs to get back on track.
Well said,
On that note, as a fellow 20l5 owner perhaps you could offer me some assistance with my 20l5.
My l5 works perfect via composite/component/s-video.
And also seems to work fine with PS1/PS2/Saturn
SNES/Wii/MD/Genesis via RGB scart produces this odd behavior. which I've made some videos of.
http://youtu.be/T1y1pnK8Vt4?list=UUDr58C83FoqQHG1G1VXST3A
http://youtu.be/7L0WVdPlaw8?list=UUDr58C83FoqQHG1G1VXST3A
Have you ever had this occur with your L5?
Do you need to use a sync stablizer like the extron SS 200 or a sync cleaner?
Do you use a specific type of sync?
BTW all the consoles and cabling work perfectly fine on my 20l2.
Thanks in advance!
Nyd
Sadly I have owned about 5 or 6 20L5's and a 14L5 and none of them had this issue. Do the cables you have use composite video for sync or composite sync (what some people call clean/raw sync)? Not sure if you have tried it yet but when I have issues with a 20L5 the first thing I do is go into the advanced system menu (pressing enter + degauss in the system menu) and reset the monitor to factory defaults. It may be possible the last owner had a wonky nonstandard setting on it. The next thing I would do is try switching your cables from Composite Video Sync to Composite Sync (if they are not on those consoles already). Although all the 20l5's I have had were not picky about sync, I have seen people who had ones that were.
I do not use any devices between my 20l5 and game consoles except for my non powered scart switch. All my consoles are wired for Composite Sync.
P.S. Also make sure your scart to bnc adapter does not have an LM1881n in it. If it has one and you are using a scart cable that is wired for composite sync it may cause issues. You only want to use a sync stripper such as the lm1881n when necessary. Using one where it is not can cause things to not work correctly.
Thank you so much for your prompt reply.
The Genesis/megadrive SCART is a raw sync/composite sync.
it was obtained from retroaccessories.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-Genesis-1- ... OU:CA:1120
The SNES scart is a composite sync for NTSC SNES which I obtained from retrogamingcables.
The wii scart I have no idea, but it is the official wii RGB scart from the UK (My wii is a Euro/PAL model which outputs RGB).
Ironically the SCART cables that seem to work fine on my L5 are the cheap playstation gold coated cables with the Video breakout I've obtained of of ebay.
The Saturn SCART is the official PAL RGB scart released for the model 1 saturn (I have 2 others that also seem to work fine)
Broken made my female SCART to BNC connector, as far as I know it does not have sync stripper.
The second one I have is a male which I use with a switch box and does not contain sync stripper either.
I have factory reset the display several times with no change.
I believe the issue most likely is a bad IC which handles the RGB, why it seems to occur only with certain RGB inputs during certain activities/resolutions etc is beyond me.
Normally I would simply sell off the unit, but I've never experienced such an amazing picture and it does still work for component and composite and RGB seems to be fine on my other two important systems PS/Saturn.
It also performs perfectly with a VGA box for the dreamcast in 480p and other consoles in 480p. However, it does not like the Hanzo VGA box, and there appears to be sync issues.
The information you'v provided leads me to believe this behavior is not a quirk of the l5 in general and mine has some sort of fault.
I'm speculating that perhaps the consoles that do work, are using cables wired for sync on composite video.
Thanks again,
Nyd
From everything you have said I am pretty sure its a fault with something on the RGB line. You could try a few things if you don't want to get rid of it. The first is find a repair tech locally that will work on such things still. The second is you could try buying a BKM-129X, maybe the problem is only that set of inputs and this could be a work around. Third is you can try to find high end rgbs to component encoder such as the Kramer FC-14. I tried one of those on the 20L5 and aside from a slight color difference there was little to no difference between it and RGB. Component on the 20L5 is still sex for your eyeballs if using a good component encoder/circuit.
A little Sonic RGB action on my 20L2
All that makes good sense, I am actively looking for a BKM-129X. I wanted one anyway as I wanted to have a component switch box for component stuff and then use a RGB switch box for the SCART stuff.
I might try the editing house I obtained the l5 from, I might even inquire if they have anymore l5's. I have a very minty l2 as well, but it just doesn't compare to the l5, I can barely use it as the l5 has spoiled me.
I read a thread somewhere that some l5 owners were experiencing loss of sync when the picture went very white/bright and this was due to the RGB signals being too strong and they constructed a sync cleaner to resolve it.
As this wavy line issue seems to be most noticable on the white/RGB screen test pattern maybe it is related.
I've adjusted the pots on my old 2530, just for geometry and focus, would I be able to turn down the intensity of the rgb the same way or would I still just use the service menu via OSD?
Cheers,
Nyd
Ive always hated how soft looking the l2 is but those colors are amazing.
My L2 is a solid performer, reliable workhorse, with good colours. But ya soft picture, my 1354Q has much sharper picture and its only 600tvl as well, probably cuz its smaller.
Nyd
Yeah the 20L2 isnt a bad monitor, i just never cared for the softness. Both the 1354q and 1954q are sharp monitors. Ive had both in the past and they looked pretty good.
So my brother gave me his old CRT it's a Sony KV-36FS13. Weights a ton (225#), but I think it needs a couple adjustments.
any help would be appreciated, I can get into the service menu and monkey around ok, but I don't know what all the abbreviations mean.
Below is an extract from the manual for my Sony CRT, I would imagine the names of settings in the geometry menu should be similar / same on yours:
View attachment 18729
This is Akumajō Densetsu...