Blurry MVS screen

MasonSushi

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Mar 24, 2010
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EDIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The monitor doesn't work at all. I posted this on #31, but thought nobody would just read down that far so I reposted it here too.

"here are the pics of my chasiss. any help would be great.

http://s906.photobucket.com/albums/ac263/masonsushi/Arcade/


I tested the voltage coming from the black and white molex connector to the chasiss. it read 126.1 , so the board is getting power. It does nothing. I haven't heard a pop when i discharge the monitor even after leaving it on for an hour. Also I can't even get the degouser to work. The board looks like it has gone under major work. I did replace one capacitor. Other than that I haven't touched a thing."
 
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BobbyPeru

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If you look on the back of the monitor there are two knobs on the chassis that adjust focus and brightness. They are not with the other pots, they are actually on the very back of the chassis.
 

BattraxZ

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I don't have one so I don't know but can he/she adjust these with it powered up/plugged in?
 

BattraxZ

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I thought There was some sort of danger associated with the reach around on monitors. Must have been something else?:crying:
 

MasonSushi

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when we tried to adjust the focus, we head a pop and my buddy got shocked. He's ok, but now it wont power on. What do we need to do? Is there a fuse that blew??
 

shadows

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I thought There was some sort of danger associated with the reach around on monitors. Must have been something else?

Well you can get killed if you touch the wrong place, but you dont just stick your hand there and try to feel where the knobs are. There's a panel on the back that you remove to have access to the knobs and you can also have a control/remote board in the front of the cab too.
 
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shadows

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when we tried to adjust the focus, we head a pop and my buddy got shocked. He's ok, but now it wont power on. What do we need to do? Is there a fuse that blew??

Get a multimeter and check the fuse.
 

MasonSushi

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well he didn't die. Also the whole back of the cab was glued and stapled shut. i had access through a small pannel at the bottom, and a very smalll pannel at the top. We had to get a pry bar and rip the glued and stapled pannel off the back to access the back of the monitor. I now have to get a new piece of board cut for the back. Also I will reinstall it with a hinge now instead of some damn staples like it was done before

As for the issue. The cab isnt' getting power at all. So I figured it had to be the power supply. If other stuff worked, it would have light up, or made some sort of noise. The power supply fan didn't even cut on. I opened it up and it Seemed to have blown a fuse. I will be getting a new one of them in hopes of it fixing the issue. If it doesn't I have no clue what to do.
 

Dion

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He must have touched something and grounded something on the chassis. Adjusting the knobs on the flyback shouldn't cause a shock.

That being said, out of focus screen *CAN* be caused by a failing flyback. Adjusting a failing one could put it out of its misery. If your monitor is a K7000 then it is pretty common for the flybacks to go bad.

If you have no power check all of your fuses first. If they are good use a multimeter to check the power going into the monitor. Take some pics of the monitor chassis so we can see what you have.
 

Dion

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well he didn't die. Also the whole back of the cab was glued and stapled shut. i had access through a small pannel at the bottom, and a very smalll pannel at the top. We had to get a pry bar and rip the glued and stapled pannel off the back to access the back of the monitor. I now have to get a new piece of board cut for the back. Also I will reinstall it with a hinge now instead of some damn staples like it was done before

Ouch. Newb mistake. The access panels are for adjusting the monitor. To remove the monitor you take it out through the front of the cabinet. No need to crowbar the back of the cabinet. Live and learn. I've been able to remove the monitor chassis from these cabinet through the small panel.
 

MasonSushi

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Ouch. Newb mistake. The access panels are for adjusting the monitor. To remove the monitor you take it out through the front of the cabinet. No need to crowbar the back of the cabinet. Live and learn. I've been able to remove the monitor chassis from these cabinet through the small panel.


the way the small panels were laid out, there was no way to access the back of the monitor. I had to pry the back off to get to the monitor. I will update once i replace the fuse in the power supply.
 

MasonSushi

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got a new fuse, but now my monitor isn't working. everything else seemes to be doing fine. I have a loose black wire near the back of the tube, that I don't know where it goes. I don't remember it being not connected before though. I Think it was attached to the board on the back of the tube. I am trying to figure out if I can remove that board to see if I can find a connecti0n spot. It is at such a hard angle to see.
 

Anselm

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got a new fuse, but now my monitor isn't working. everything else seemes to be doing fine. I have a loose black wire near the back of the tube, that I don't know where it goes. I don't remember it being not connected before though. I Think it was attached to the board on the back of the tube. I am trying to figure out if I can remove that board to see if I can find a connecti0n spot. It is at such a hard angle to see.

That happened to me on my monitor installation. I found a single pin on the main board that it attached to. I had the advantage of having an exploded view of the assembly.

~Anselm~
 

BobbyPeru

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Just be careful back there. If your not familiar with monitors you may want to consider discharging it first.

 
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MasonSushi

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my monitor powers on now, but there is no "glow" in the tube when you look at the neck. Most of the videos tell you to find the glow to make sure it works. You turn on the monitor you hear it degouse, but there is still no image.
 

channelmaniac

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Sometimes it's hard to see the glow. Do it in a dark room.

If you have high voltage to the screen (you can feel the static electricity on the front of the tube) but no heater voltage to the CRT tube then you'll have a problem off one of the taps of the flyback that is used to supply the heater with power.

Most monitors use taps off the flyback to supply the different voltage levels to the rest of the circuitry once the horizontal circuit powers up and sends pulses through it to generate the high voltage.
 

Dion

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Before we go any further does the game play blind?
 

MasonSushi

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i just ordered a cap kit. I will be trying that. IF it doesn't work, any suggestions on sending it to somebody for repair?? Anyboy do it here for a fair price??

Thanks guys
 

shess

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A cap kit won't solve powering up problems. It will just fix poor picture quality. The black wire could be the ground wire which I believe is connected to the neck board. If your buddy reached in and accidentally pulled it out, that could cause some bad issues. I would pull the monitor out and try and test it on a bench so you can see everything without reaching into the dark. You also probably want to find the Randy Fromm flowchart for your monitor. Just do a search for your monitor series (k7000, hantarex, k4600, etc) and randy fromm flowchart. You should be able to find one with enough searching.

Also the dials referred to earlier are on the flyback. The suction cup on the tube is attached to a big red wire that goes right into the flyback. On there are two knobs, focus and screen (I think). One adjusts the overall brightness and the other adjusts the focus. Since you have no picture you'll want to start with reattaching that wire and checking out the flowchart. Otherwise you could always get a working chassis from ebay and swap it out.
 

Dion

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If you want you can send it to me and I can take a look at it. I'm no expert by any means but a completely dead monitor is usually one of only a few things. Can you check the voltage going into the monitor to make sure its 120V?
 

MasonSushi

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the monitor manual said to check the Filament circuit. It is refering to the bulb, right?? if I can change the bulb or test it, how do it do that. It might just need a bulb replacement. Can it blow when it receives a shock?

Thanks
 
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