Blast City Club

[jambitboom]

If you want a monitor chassis, the best place for the original Nanao MS2930-2934 series chassis is probably Yahoo Japan Auctions. I found a couple MS2930 chassis on there for a reasonable price as my monitor came with a MS2932 (vga only) fitted instead of the original MS2930 tri sync.

As for tube choices, well if it's not one of the original's then you'll need some modifications to make it fit and then of course there's the monitor bezel which will leave gaps if a different tube is used. (due to curvature)
You could always buy a flatscreen CRT from River Service over in Japan, it's a tri sync monitor and they even sell a bezel filler to address the gap issue. That said it's not cheap and shipping I'd imagine to be quite expensive.

Control box? you mean the entire control panel assembly? That's going to be hard to source but someone here might be parting out our again Yahoo Japan Auctions is probably not a bad start.

Did you get the original power supply and wiring inside? or is it a soul deprived shell?

The wiring is still in place, but not much else. What would you recommend for a power supply?

 

[Heinz]

The wiring is still in place, but not much else. What would you recommend for a power supply?

The original unit first and foremost. They can be found and it should probably be your first priority in regards to a PSU. If you have the original wiring from the I/O board (right hand side once you remove the coin door) to what looks like a big socket/connector then you're already winning. Because that's where the original power supply connects into.

I mean you can always rig up any old arcade power supply, depends on how far you're going to go in regards to a 'restoration'.

Take some photos, it'll be much easier for me to tell you what's best.

 

[Orrimarrko]

Cool - paper or plastic marquees?

Some of my first custom marquees. They came out really nice, working on making these available soon.

More info here:
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=46967

 

[Chempop]

Fancy Plastic, with a gloss protective backside and mat frontside, made specifically for backlit marquees.

 

[jambitboom]

The original unit first and foremost. They can be found and it should probably be your first priority in regards to a PSU. If you have the original wiring from the I/O board (right hand side once you remove the coin door) to what looks like a big socket/connector then you're already winning. Because that's where the original power supply connects into.

I mean you can always rig up any old arcade power supply, depends on how far you're going to go in regards to a 'restoration'.

Take some photos, it'll be much easier for me to tell you what's best.

I'm definitely all about keeping things as original as possible, and I'm in no hurry to get the thing together....my plan is to get a really good idea of how often I'll come across parts, and where to look for them. I got a few pictures, and there's good new...the wiring is definitely in place. However, it's for sega system 3.

 

[jambitboom]

I've never ordered anything from yahoo japan before, although I know that there are people who provide 3rd party service to do so. I spotted this a few minutes ago:

http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g124194512

I'm debating whether or not to buy it. Any advice from people who have bought stuff from YJ before would be appreciated

 

[Chempop]

Avoid that, it is an Astro upper enclosure. Strange thing is that I used to be able to find a ton of full Blast enclosures, but now all I can find are those.

 

[jambitboom]

Avoid that, it is an Astro upper enclosure. Strange thing is that I used to be able to find a ton of full Blast enclosures, but now all I can find are those.

Thanks Chem, I did manage to find a couple of them for the blast:

http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m116045481
http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/175867615

Either or these seems worth it?

Just to get it out there, I am looking to buy the control panel enclosure first.

 

[thieslo]

congrats jambi on the blast city. Looks like you and I are looking for the same thing. I have a control panel but it has some cracks and things that annoy me. Would like to get it replaced at some point with a good condition housing. The 1 player panel is nice as I don't have one, but don't really need a panel atm.

 

[Heinz]

Alright it looks like you don't have the cabinet I/O board I think finding the I/O board and original PSU would be a good start. Shell is clean though! Nice.

 

[codecrank]

oh boy... you're missing:

monitor.
psu
locks
game system loom
'i/o board
marquee billboard
marquee cover
CP upper.
populated CP
player looms
main front door
back monitor cover


yes , you could buy all those parts. either now on YAJ or wait for people tho part their cabs. But the reason people normally part a blast city is due to monitor chassis failure. ( replacement cost is in the 175-300$ range ) .

I'll be honest with you here, you could have bought a complete blast on the last group buy for much less than it's going to cost you to refurb the shell you have. At this point, say you're lucky enough to score a complete monitor for 300$, you're still looking at another 500$ MINIMUM to get the rest. So really, your best bet is to ditch the shell and save your money for a fully working one.

 

[jambitboom]

Alright it looks like you don't have the cabinet I/O board I think finding the I/O board and original PSU would be a good start. Shell is clean though! Nice.

Yeah, the clean shell is the reason I went for it. That, and the fact that I didn't have to spend cash on it now, but could trade for it and fix it up one little bit at a time

 

[jambitboom]

oh boy... you're missing:

monitor.
psu
locks
game system loom
'i/o board
marquee billboard
marquee cover
CP upper.
populated CP
player looms
main front door
back monitor cover


yes , you could buy all those parts. either now on YAJ or wait for people tho part their cabs. But the reason people normally part a blast city is due to monitor chassis failure. ( replacement cost is in the 175-300$ range ) .

I'll be honest with you here, you could have bought a complete blast on the last group buy for much less than it's going to cost you to refurb the shell you have. At this point, say you're lucky enough to score a complete monitor for 300$, you're still looking at another 500$ MINIMUM to get the rest. So really, your best bet is to ditch the shell and save your money for a fully working one.

I totally understand what you're saying, and I had a pretty good idea of what I was getting myself into when I traded for this. My main reasoning was that I didn't have to spend the money all at once now. I got this in a trade, and I was looking for a project. I appreciate the list you made for me

P.S. I do have the back monitor cover, it just wasn't on the cab , so that's one less(albeit a small one expense wise) part for me to get!

 

[jambitboom]

congrats jambi on the blast city. Looks like you and I are looking for the same thing. I have a control panel but it has some cracks and things that annoy me. Would like to get it replaced at some point with a good condition housing. The 1 player panel is nice as I don't have one, but don't really need a panel atm.

Thanks thieslo! Well, from my position, your position looks like a good place to be

If you want to PM me some pictures of your housing, it might just be that I am feeling less particular about you in respect to condition ATM. We might be able to make something happen.

 

[Chempop]

Lighting "ballast" too. I agree with Crank, you are looking at an easy $1000 for a complete restore.

 

[jambitboom]

Lighting "ballast" too. I agree with Crank, you are looking at an easy $1000 for a complete restore.

I've got the lighting ballast too haha. Maybe I should've taken a picture of the stuff that isn't in the cab too.

 

[Heinz]

Whatever tickles your fancy really, I hope for your sake you complete this shell!

 

[jambitboom]

Whatever tickles your fancy really, I hope for your sake you complete this shell!

Thanks lach, me too! It'll be a good feeling to bring a cab back from the dead!

 

[Orrimarrko]

Fancy Plastic, with a gloss protective backside and mat frontside, made specifically for backlit marquees.

Isn't that backwards? Shouldn't the mat be on the backside and the gloss be on the front? Just curious.

 

[Chempop]

Isn't that backwards? Shouldn't the mat be on the backside and the gloss be on the front? Just curious.

Nope, the gloss is actually what protects the material from the lightbulb.

 

[Orrimarrko]

Nope, the gloss is actually what protects the material from the lightbulb.

Cool. If you end up selling to the masses, let me know.

 

[Heinz]

Cool. If you end up selling to the masses, let me know.

I am intrigued if such a thing were to occur!

 

[Jag-Master]

Need some help guys, (posted a thread about this in Tech)

I just recently picked up a new 1L6B Blast City cp (part # OOM-8-6BSRT-H) and being new to the candy cab scene I am trying to utilize all 6 buttons for use on my cab. There is one button on the cp which isn't connected (bought NOS so it was pre-wired,) and I quess I don't know what I need to use/buy/make wiring wise to get this connected to my cab properly.


I'm Currently using:

-Sega 001 Loom
-cps2 kick harness
-2L12B cp
-Lemony Vengence pad hack (Xbox 360)

Since I mostly play shmups on this cab, I would like to utilize my new 1L6B cp but have no clue in other words how to wire that damn extra button lol.

Any help or pics on what to do would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

-Dan

 

[codecrank]

Any help or pics on what to do would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
-Dan

I'm assuming you have the CPS2 kick harness for blast city that Shadow makes ?

you need this:

http://www.giz10p.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=85

the blast can carry button 4&5 trough either the 10pin connector + extra button loom OR the 15pin connectors + player looms

but button 6 can only be used via the 10pin connector + extra button loom.

 

[Chempop]

oh god, I dealt with that issue a while back. For some reason Lemony makes the A+B buttons on the kick harness end of things, basically what codecrank says is correct. Also, PICS of your cab running a cave port NOWW