Search results

I'm working on the battery mod for the mv1c. I've never done this mod before, and I accidentally pulled a solder pad up when removing the "D6" component. Is this pad necessary, do I need to jump a trace to somewhere else on the board to fix this? Or will it still work? Where does this pad...

Does anyone know if these are the correct jumper settings? I am unsure of how to get this thing to boot properly. Do I need to do a byte swap on any of the roms?

Are the jumper settings on the sam sho cart the same as the default ones? I tried to convert a sam sho cart to test my mvs, but I'm getting this.

I threw out the 138 in 1 and attempted the mods on my 120 in 1, things seem to be working fine but I did notice some minor graphical glitches on pulstar when hitting the continue screen. How eletrically sound is my 120 in 1 now? Since the 120 in 1 doesn't have a "c12" pad for the capacitor next...

I'm having issues getting the 138-in-1 dip switch mod to work. I applied GadgetUK's stability fixes, and the prebuilt dipswitch purchased from nornor1. I am unsure if I damaged something while trying to apply GadgetUK's fixes, or if I simply used the wrong capacitors. None of the voltage values...

OK so after discovering this https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/arduino-uno-colour-ntsc-output-with-ad725-bad-colours-issue/msg2724690/#msg2724690 I tried moving the Oscillator closer to the ad725 chip to make the lead connecting it to pin 3 as short as possible and well... Granted this...

This thread is in response to this thread here, but rather than bumping a 6 year old thread I figured it would be better to just start a new one. http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?240640-AD725-Dot-Crawl I've experienced the same issues of dot-crawl as discussed in the linked thread...

OK so I tried swapping out the 220uf caps on the luma and chroma from the ad725 with some 330uf caps. I don't really see much of a difference. It still appears oversaturated, most notably on the reds. Peoples skin looks orange. I have some 470uf caps that I can also try, but I'm not sure if it...

I am having some trouble with an RGB to s-video/comp converter for a CMVS based off of Ben Heck's decade old instructions. I thought I followed his schematic perfectly, but the colors were way off and the image was kind of jittery. So after doing a bit more research I found a post explaining...

I tested the stock bios again, it will not boot with the stock bios. I haven't hooked any joysticks or controllers up to the board yet, but it seems to be fine with the unibios, although the colors are off. I am unsure if this is because of the board itself or the RGB-to-s-video encoder that I...

OK I checked the 5v rail from my PSU and you are right, it isn't reaching 5v. So I decided to hook the 12v rail to a voltage regulator to provide 5v. Now I do get a different image and it's flashing like the description. IDK if it is clicking because I haven't tried to hook up speakers. As...

I got a MV1A board, and it won't boot to a game or the cross-hatch screen test. Every time I turn it on I get an arrangement of different color blocks. The screen does not flash, and it appears to be the same arrangement of blocks every time. I'm powering the board using an old AXT12v desktop...

So I finally got the MVS board that I ordered from China. I was expecting a MV-1FZ, instead I got an MV-1A. The board will not boot, when I try to do a system test with no cartridge all I get is a jumbled mess of different colored tiles, or just a solid color. The ebay seller has agreed to give...

Hi so I recently bought an MV-1FZ off of Ebay, it hasn’t arrived yet, but I am hoping to consolize it. I intend to do the 5 volt only mod as well as the stereo mod, I also would like to include USB ports, via the Undamned USB Decoder, to give the option to use modern arcade sticks/controllers or...