How to Consolize an MVS Board - Revision history

XianXi-12537 at 00:21, 28 April 2009

2009-04-28T00:21:20Z

XianXi-12537: /* Adding a Unibios */

2009-04-28T00:20:52Z

Adding a Unibios

XianXi-12537: /* Adding a Unibios */

2009-04-26T19:31:02Z

Adding a Unibios

XianXi-12537: /* Powering the Board */

2009-04-21T00:46:45Z

Powering the Board

XianXi-12537: /* Adding a Unibios */

2009-04-21T00:44:33Z

Adding a Unibios

XianXi-12537: /* Adding a Unibios */

2009-04-20T22:08:04Z

Adding a Unibios

XianXi-12537: /* Extras?? */

2009-04-16T20:42:12Z

Extras??

XianXi-12537 at 04:41, 1 April 2009

2009-04-01T04:41:57Z

XianXi-12537: /* Parts Needed */

2008-12-28T23:15:27Z

Parts Needed

XianXi-12537: /* Adding a Unibios */

2008-11-13T20:58:07Z

Adding a Unibios

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:21, 28 April 2009
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	[[Image:Unibios Socket MV1C.jpg\|200px]]		[[Image:Unibios Socket MV1C.jpg\|200px]]
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	==RGB Output Socket(AES) Style==		==RGB Output Socket(AES) Style==

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:20, 28 April 2009
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	*The MV1C can run off any MVS bios so you can do the socket mod and use another bios if you plan to get a Unibios later but want to do the mod now.		*The MV1C can run off any MVS bios so you can do the socket mod and use another bios if you plan to get a Unibios later but want to do the mod now.
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		+	Here's a picture of a completed Unibios Mod on an MV1C with a socket:
		+
		+	[[Image:Unibios Socket MV1C.jpg\|200px]]

	==RGB Output Socket(AES) Style==		==RGB Output Socket(AES) Style==

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 * Solder
 * Soldering Iron
-* Perfboard
+* PCboard
-Mount the socket to the breadboard and solder it. From here you can either solder the 40 wires to the socket first or to the board.
+Mount the socket to the PCboard and solder it. From here you can either solder the 40 wires to the socket first or to the board.
 Some people use ribbon cable which is easier to use. Follow the pinout below to solder the pins correctly.

@@ Line 81: / Line 81: @@
 ==Powering the Board==
-Powering the board is simple, you just provide +5v and ground. With the PSU I recommended all you need is a panel mount 2.1mm barrel jack which can also be purchased a Jameco. The barrel jack has 3 pins but you will only be using 2 of them. Remember that the PSU has positive tip polarity which means that the center pin will carry the +5v supply, the edge will be the ground. I always use a multimeter as a habit when doing it just to ensure everything is correct. Just mount the barrel jack and plug in the psu without wiring it to the board and use your tester to check which pin is which. Just remember that when powering your board with only +5v the sound will not come off the jamma edge as that is where the amplified sound is tapped to. You will need to find the source before it hits the amplifier, for an MV-1C this mod is shown below.
+Powering the board is simple, you just provide +5v and ground. With the PSUs I recommended they are usually a panel mount 2.1mm or 2.5mm barrel jack and can also be purchased at Jameco. The barrel jack has 3 pins but you will only be using 2 of them. Remember that the PSU has positive tip polarity which means that the center pin will carry the +5v supply, the edge will be the ground. I always use a multimeter as a habit when doing it just to ensure everything is correct. Just mount the barrel jack and plug in the psu without wiring it to the board and use your tester to check which pin is which. Just remember that when powering your board with only +5v the sound will not come off the jamma edge as that is where the amplified sound is tapped to. You will need to find the source before it hits the amplifier, for an MV-1C this mod is shown below.
 Once you confirm which pin is the +5v go ahead and connect it to a power switch, you can use a rocker switch for this or whatever you choose. From there connect the power to Jamma PINs 3,4,C,D. And the ground to Jamma PINs 1,2,A,B.
 ==The Video Encoder==

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 * Solder
 * Soldering Iron
-* Breadboard
+* Perfboard
 Mount the socket to the breadboard and solder it. From here you can either solder the 40 wires to the socket first or to the board.

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:08, 20 April 2009
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−	*If After you connect the Unibios and it doesn't boot, you may need to bridge pins 39 and 40. I've only had to do this on 1 board.	+	*If After you connect the Unibios and it doesn't boot, you may need to bridge pins 38, 39 and 40. I've only had to do this on 1 board.

	*The MV1C can run off any MVS bios so you can do the socket mod and use another bios if you plan to get a Unibios later but want to do the mod now.		*The MV1C can run off any MVS bios so you can do the socket mod and use another bios if you plan to get a Unibios later but want to do the mod now.

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 *Headphone Jack - It's up to you but you need to rig up something that turns it on and off so it doesn't create impedance issues with the RCA outs.
 *Vibration Feedback - If you figure this out, email me.
-*RGB Pots - Doesn't really make much sense unless your TV is super bright or something but if that's the case just change the resistor value on your encoder.
+*RGB Pots - Doesn't really make much sense unless you are going to be alternating between a CRT and LCD TV.

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 Even though there are 2 pins that are used for the D button, only Pin 4 is used for 99% of the games. Pin 9 is used basically for the rare mahjong controller.
-''Keep in mind that if you do not plan on using a Unibios you must wire up the coin buttons (Pin 16, T)to the select buttons (Pin 3) on the Neo controller. If you use a Unibios it makes the select button act as a coin button. If you do not want to wire it up to the controller you can add buttons on your CMVS for coins, I personally think that's retarded.''
+''Keep in mind that if you do not plan on using a Unibios you must wire up the coin buttons (Pin 16, T)to the select buttons (Pin 3) on the Neo controller. If you use a Unibios it makes the select button act as a coin button. If you do not want to wire it up to the controller you can add buttons on your CMVS for coins, I personally think that's retarded. You can of course set it to freeplay by flipping dipswitch 7''
 The standard Neo Geo Controller pinout:

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 *Audio, Video and Power Jacks (I use color coded Gold Panel Mounts)
 *RGB > NTSC Video Encoder (I prefer the [http://www.neobitz.com/Pages/Mods/SystemMods.aspx Neobitz])
-*+5v Power Supply, I prefer [https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=319881 this one] from Jameco.
+*+5v Power Supply, I prefer [https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=1946121& this one] from Jameco.
 *Power Switch (Rocker style or anything that can handle at least 2 amps. Do NOT use momentary push buttons for power.)
 *Dremel or Xacto Knife for cutting

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 On an MV1C the Bios is a surface mount chip like the MV-1B, unlike the other boards with a socketed bios you will need to wire up a socket to add a Unibios.
-First thing you should know is that both chips have 40 pins BUT are not pin for pin as far as output. You will need to follow the pinout from the Unibios chip to the MV-1C bios. The MV-1B has a pin to pin connection unlike the MV-1C as seen below.
+First thing you should know is that both chips have 40 pins BUT are not pin for pin as far as output. You will need to follow the pinout from the Unibios chip to the MV-1C bios. The MV-1B has a pin for pin connection(1-1, 2-2, 3-3, etc.) unlike the MV-1C as seen below.
 For this you will need: