The Super 138 in 1 without the sub-pcb: using a dipswitch. Game list with binary code.

GadgetUK

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Interesting! It's good that 123578 are working, I wonder if the wires for 4 and 6 are either not making a proper connection, or maybe on the CPLD the pins are making a bad connection. There's a chance the inputs are faulty I guess. It's worth posting some close ups of the board where the wires connect to - at the point they connect (top and bottom), and also the 2 CPLD chips on there if you can. I might be able to spot something? Note that it's probably not a good idea to feed 5v directly into that chip as although the IO pins are 5v tolerant I am not sure if it has to be programmed that way to support it, and normally that VCC pin from the cart is something like 4v - that said I doubt the 5v input has caused any problem because the IO pins are supposed to be 5v tolerant. Don't worry about the 5v vcc for now, You can change back to using the lower voltage later once you get it working. Whilst testing the 5v will probably be OK. Did you by chance get the cart which has Metal Slug X on it? The reason I ask, there's a chance they changed the pin ordering and connectivity between the cart and sub board. The diagram etc is based on the 138 in 1 that doesn't have Metal Slug X on it.

EDIT: If you do have the Metal Slug X version, there's a chance the binary values for some games are different.
 
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Wu_swordsman

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Apr 30, 2015
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I took the boards out and as you can see I relocated some of the wires on the board to the back to ensure a good connection, so I have ruled that out. All the connections on the dip are good. My cart doesn't have metal slug x on it. The dips are no longer inverted either. So I would expect the dip codes to match the list. Metal Slug 5 is 01000000, Burning Fight is 10000001 (this should be Nam 1975), Samurai Showdown is the right dip (00010000) so I have established that dips 12357 work but 8 (purple) I'm unsure about. 4(orange) and 6(white) don't seem to register.

n13pt2.jpg


2ni9l5c.jpg


2qn78l3.jpg


a2g1om.jpg


24whyky.jpg


mw3aqc.jpg


20pyd80.jpg
 
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GadgetUK

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Not sure what else to suggest here. Have you tested continuity with a multimeter from the DIP switches to the position where the pin connects to the CPLD? I cannot really tell from those photos how good the connections are on the CPLD. Looking at the pics the cable is next to that 74 logic chip there, I cannot remember if the inputs go through that chip, if they do it could be a fault there.
 

Wu_swordsman

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I have a new multimeter on its way (mines broke) so will have a poke around when it arrives.....Finally got hold of a new multimeter. check all connections right back to the CPLD & 74 Logic chips - all checks out and connections are good. No crossed or broken wires. dips making good individual connections and VCC + ground fine. I am baffled!
 
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Burn4Evr

Timid Neo Newbie
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Does anyone sell a kit for this? or have a part breakdown.. trying to google "resistor pack" doesn't seem to be producing many good results (I get some great images but every link is to a assortment of resistors, not a single resistor pack component)
Even a part number of the pin header used would be nice.

Thanks in advance everyone.
 

SmokeMonster

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Does anyone sell a kit for this? or have a part breakdown.. trying to google "resistor pack" doesn't seem to be producing many good results (I get some great images but every link is to a assortment of resistors, not a single resistor pack component)
Even a part number of the pin header used would be nice.
This resistor pack will work, and here is a DIP switch.
 

kuze

Genbu's Turtle Keeper
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I just got around to purchasing a 138 in 1 to perform the dip switch mod with.

Thanks for putting the info for this out there, Fandangos! The list with dip codes is especially helpful.

I took the SPDT dip switch approach to keep things as simple as possible and mounted an 8 position SPDT dip switch bank to a piece of breadboard.

I used one of these mini breadboards with two mounting holes on either side, then cut the breadboard down to size for fitting on my cart.

589-00.jpg

This was basically my first time using a dremel, so the end result isn't exactly pretty. But it works great!

j6pjbRw.jpg

Fired it up and it worked first try with the dip codes that Fandangos provided.

P86Zya7.jpg
 

xsq

Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
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looking good... except the case work ^^
but you can always get a replacement shell and redo it.
 

kuze

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looking good... except the case work ^^
but you can always get a replacement shell and redo it.

Unfortunately the 138 shell isn't interchangeable, the boards don't fit a replacement. :(
 

xsq

Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
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oh, I didn't know that. Well, it's not that bad actually ;)
 

kuze

Genbu's Turtle Keeper
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oh, I didn't know that. Well, it's not that bad actually ;)

Thanks, it's a bit rough but at least it will stay hidden in the cab for the most part. Been itching to play some SSVS since I sold my 161 cart, now I'm all set.
 
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donluca

Camel Slug
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A quick question:

does pausing the game I'm playing (by using Unibios), change the dipswitches to select a new game and reboot (using Unibios) without turning off the MVS everytime I want to change the game harm the cartridge or board?

I've done this a couple of times and it worked fine but I'm afraid it might damage something in the long run.
 
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GadgetUK

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Personally I would power it off. In principle it will work, but you're dealing with switches and switches bounce, which can translate into current and voltage spikes = possibly bad.
 

donluca

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Yeah, thought as such.

The point is that I'm going to get a cab soon and was thinking of a way to change games without powering the entire cab off.

I guess I can put a switch on the jamma edge to power off the board and change the switches safely.
 

kuze

Genbu's Turtle Keeper
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Yeah, thought as such.

The point is that I'm going to get a cab soon and was thinking of a way to change games without powering the entire cab off.

I guess I can put a switch on the jamma edge to power off the board and change the switches safely.

Yeah you could do that, but you'll probably find that it's fun to leave a dedicated game in for a while at a time to really sink your teeth into.
 

donluca

Camel Slug
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Yeah you could do that, but you'll probably find that it's fun to leave a dedicated game in for a while at a time to really sink your teeth into.

Definitely, but to mimic the times when I was in the arcades, I always used to play 2-3 games there, so I liked the idea of switching games without having to turn the cab off.

Like having one game of a certain genre "readily available".

For example Metal Slug 2, Matrimelee and Blazing Star.
 

nornor1

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so Black is Ground, and Grey is the VCC correct? mine is wired like the video. so...
Pin1 black= Gnd
Pin2 grey= Vcc
Pin3 Purple= Dip1
Pin4 blue= Dip2
Pin5 White= Dip3
Pin6 Yellow= Dip4
Pin7 orange= Dip5
Pin8 Brown= Dip6
Pin9 Green= Dip7
Pin10 Red= Dip8

then you wire it up like the diagram correct. so the VCC wire connects to the Resistor array, then to all the OFF pins(all resister array pins shorted together)?, (or VCC to just the 1st pin of the resistor array, then 1 wire to each resistor/dip pin?) then the GND connects to all the ON Pins(all on pins shorted together)? thanks.
 

nornor1

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Got it working all is good. thank you to Fandangos, and GadgetUK for all the info to get this working. I printed off a small list with the 20 something games with the dip settings that are missing from the 161, and slapped it on the cart. Life is good. I might be making some plug in play boards soon if anyone is interested? im just waiting for the parts. once again thanks.
 

Broomfield

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Got it working all is good. thank you to Fandangos, and GadgetUK for all the info to get this working. I printed off a small list with the 20 something games with the dip settings that are missing from the 161, and slapped it on the cart. Life is good. I might be making some plug in play boards soon if anyone is interested? im just waiting for the parts. once again thanks.

Hi there, you couldn't upload some pictures of the mod could you? the way you have soldered it and also the way the resistor pack goes? I was going to attempt this mod myself soon, but am getting very confused as to how to go about it. The information on the way it is soldered is not that clear to me, so would love some more info how to do it.

I'd also be very interested in a plug and play board if you have one? :)
 

nornor1

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sure Ill upload some pics when I get home. I havn't received all the parts yet for my plug and play board :). do you have the resistor pack yet? is it 9 or 10 pin?
 

Shin9999

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Apr 19, 2002
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Cool, I really like the concept of the board but it creates unwanted weight the way the cabling is setup in my cabinet. Good to see you are making this work in your favor!
 
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