grendelrt
Super Spy Agent
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2014
- Posts
- 623
You can connect them with a bead of solder if you use the other pad.
Seems like the battery is working so at this point I am going to leave it alone haha.
You can connect them with a bead of solder if you use the other pad.
Hi, i don't have a proper document, but i've spotted this video where the guy is using a super capacitor with which he claims he can hold the data on his powered off 6 slots board for about 3 months...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTP9_gS31Tw
honestly i don't know
Props on the thread. Just got the battery out of my new 2 slot. I'm wanting to run the battery away from the board in its own enclosure so I don't have to worry about corrosion at all. I'm just wondering if there's a maximum distance that I shouldn't go beyond with the wire which would lead to improper functionality?
Well I want going to have it completely boxed up. More or less in a tray. And no particular reason for not going with the coin. It's not that it's not an option, I'm just trying to get as much info as possible before moving forward with my CMVS build.
Sounds good. I'm about to submit this months order to DigiKey. Maybe the wife won't notice me buying a lot more than I'm used to.
So what Fygee said about solid state capacitors, I haven't seem any for sale on Digi-Key that I could find. Are they available for consumer use yet??? That would save a lot of hassle.
Do you mean lifespan or how long they hold a charge? AFAIK the supercabs with 1 farad charge up quite fast and can be used for a long time. I do not know how many hours they will provide enough energy to hold the data in BRAM with the board turned off though. Someone should try that out - it has been mentioned earlier that 3 months were claimed on youtube...Yea, you can get them on digikey. I think all super caps are drycell but not sure. The problem with super caps is they don't last long. They have a lifespan of like 1000 hours.
I was gonna change the battery on my 2-slot but those little pads on the bottom are really stuck on there. Any tips on removing them without taking part of the pcb with it?
A soft toothbrush, some lightly soapy water, and gentle elbow grease worked pretty well for me. The black foam on mine had crusted into a hard, semi-brittle caked mess so peeling it off wasn't an option. I managed to get just enough off to have a clear area for the battery solder points.
Just make sure you rinse it off with distilled water and let it dry when you're done.
This, but I used a mixture of 90% isopropyl alcohol and distilled water. Mine was the same way, hard caked mess. It came off with some work
I considered using rubbing alcohol, but I was concerned that it would dissolve the protective coating on the board.
nice save!
I hope you neutralized the area before installing the new battery. If not I would remove the new battery and holder, scrape up the damaged soldermask neutralize the area really well with baking soda. Then replace the C1815 transistor and the two resisters above/below it.
Area is well dry, so I didn't use baking soda though I have thought about scraping the green stuff but wasn't sure what kind of damage it would do. I'm not sure it's wise to invest any more time in repairing it because my slots are all crappy (not to mention I don't know how to solder) since the day I first got it - all I get is garbled images if the carts sway one way or another. For my first dip into the MVS, it was so disappointing.
Thanks for the advice!