Post a Pic of your CMVS, AES or Neo CD............

[yesteryeargames]

Lovely consoles and setups, The CMVS with 2 slots at the back what sort of price should I be paying for one pre built ?

 

[Xian Xi]

Lovely consoles and setups, The CMVS with 2 slots at the back what sort of price should I be paying for one pre built ?

It depends on what's included. Since you are in the UK it seems, RGB and a unibios should suffice. I would say about $200-250 US. If the modder gets the PCB cheaper then the price should be lower. That price is assuming the PCB is between $100-125.

 

[yesteryeargames]

Hello it looks a bit like this one


But it has a red switch on the front .

It has a universe bios and an rgb scart .
That's all I know about it .

 

[c0nn0r]

Sometimes a man needs him some NEO•GEO, and I'm not going to let a flight get in the way. Sure, it's emulation, but I cant bring my PVM, HSS-0130 dual arcade stick pro, and Supergun through security - so I settle for this:

 

[xsq]

Sometimes a man needs him some NEO•GEO, and I'm not going to let a flight get in the way. Sure, it's emulation, but I cant bring my PVM, HSS-0130 dual arcade stick pro, and Supergun through security - so I settle for this:

...neo mile high club...

 

[MCF 76]

Sometimes a man needs him some NEO•GEO, and I'm not going to let a flight get in the way. Sure, it's emulation, but I cant bring my PVM, HSS-0130 dual arcade stick pro, and Supergun through security - so I settle for this:

View attachment 28662

Damn, now that's how you fly lol.

 

[Vas]

i was thinking the same thing council estate Fire we had one long gone now horrible things maybe the shock boxes are keeping it on the wall

 

[c0nn0r]

...neo mile high club...

Fuck, I like that moniker. I should make a .sig for it. Anyone else in the NG mile high club?

 

[donluca]

Introducing... the Poverty CMVS: for the broke Neo Geo fan.



Yup, it's a shoebox I had which used thick, solid cardboard and came with a small frontal hole, ideal to get cables through.

To cover stuff, I've put a paper on top with the codes for the 138-in-1 dipswitch and cut a small window so I can access the dipswitch without opening the box. I've also listed the games the 161-in-1 has which the 138-in-1 doesn't.



As you can (probably not) see, I've put a thin wood table on the bottom of the box to make it stronger and glued the feet of the MV1FZ board so that it doesn't go around when I remove and insert cartridges. If I need to remove the board, I can just unscrew the bolts on the feets and get it out.
I had to cut a part of the side of the shoebox to get the cartridges out. When closed, there's just a very small window open which is nice so some air can get in avoiding heat problems.
On the front you can see a led which lights up when the board is powered and a switch to turn it on and off.

The board has been modded with the usual suspects: 5V mod and stereo mod (mine, which is the MVS stereo board output "copypasted" into the MV1FZ). I'm still waiting for my UniBios to arrive
I've also battery modded it.

I fitted the dipswitch inside the 138-in-1 cart so I don't have shit floating around.
I used a jamma harness to get all the cables out and then used a VGA 15-pin connector for the audio and video and wide 15-pin connectors for the controllers.

Speaking of controllers, here are the (not so) poverty sticks!



They are quite rough and unrefined because I don't have proper tools for this kind of stuff and I don't really care enough: they are comfortable and I play well on them and that's what counts for me.
I used Seimitsu LS-40 sticks and IL pushbuttons and I really like the feeling: it feels just like the arcades I used to play in the 90s.

Here's the insides:



It's kind of a mess but in the end it works fine. When I'm not using them the cable stays inside, out of the way, which is really nice, so I don't have cables hanging around.

That's it! ^_^

 

[xsq]

come on, that's pretty cool actually. you got good controlls, original hardware and it's all easy to use. And from what I can see you did a clean job putting it all together, so: nice setup, game on!

 

[blakeb8111]

@donluca, don't sell yourself short, you did a great job. Thats a nice looking setup.

 

[donluca]

Thanks for the kind words!

I always see stuff out of this world on these threads, consolizations which are gorgeous and incredibly well refined, and when I look at my shoebox CMVS I kinda feel ashamed. It's like going to a Ferrari meeting with an old volkswagen beetle, LOL.

I'm happy you liked it, I've really put a lot of work in it.

 

[Xian Xi]

I like it, pretty clean for a "poverty" CMVS.

Any CMVS that uses a JAMMA harness to me is a supergun rather than a CMVS since the term means to modify it so it's dedicated as that system.

 

[donluca]

Thanks! And yeah, it's definitely a super gun, it's a bare bone jamma harness with connectors, hooked up to a modified mvs board.
One day I hope to get a cab and slam it in and play it the old way.

While I'm at it, here's my retro station:



I look things nice and clean and with no cables floating around.
My monitor is a Sony BVM 14M4DE, the audio part is a Scythe T-Amp (not really, it uses a small yamaha amplifier, but still...) powering two Logitech speakers taken from my Z-5500 set which I don't use anymore. They sound pretty good!
You can see on the sides of the monitor my two sticks when I'm not using them.

You may ask: where's all the stuff?

It's hidden inside the drawers, along with all the cabling and stuff (I made holes in the back to route all the cables.



Here's the power strip with the PSUs and my white Japanese Sega Saturn.



And here's the MVS and my Mega Drive.

The only thing hanging out of the drawers is the SCART cable which brings audio and video to the monitor+speakers and goes into a SCART to BNC breakout cable I made. I try to keep it as short as possible so it doesn't float around too much.

Hidden behind the monitor is the cable going to the power strip with a general switch to turn everything off.

 

[xsq]

Hmmm, that Amp looks interesting... is it this one? How do you like it?
I'm still looking for a small amp to plug my headphones in when I'm gaming alone.

 

[donluca]

http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/audio-acessory/kama-bay-amp-mini.html

This one is the one I have.

I wouldn't recommend it though, I got this for free from a kind guy who sold me his speakers and it's ok for a gaming setup.
It's ok, it does its job, but nothing more. If I didn't have it already I would have used a true Tripath amplifier.

If you need just a headphone amp, I'd go with Fiio.

Here's one with a huge discount on the italian amazon: http://www.amazon.it/FiiO-E6-Amplif...?ie=UTF8&qid=1443196914&sr=8-24&keywords=fiio

If you need both speaker and headphone amplifier I'd go with any of the TPA3116 amp from china: their quality/price ratio can't be beaten, really. They pack some serious "oomph" and great quality at a very modest price.

 

[Gummy Bear]

I done tinkered with my Omega.


I'm not a big fan of the internal rechargeable battery of MVS boards due to my erratic gaming habits (sometimes I'll go on an RPG binge on SFC for weeks etc.) so replacing it with a non rechargeable type made sense.
However, a normal CR2032 will get chewed through in no time at all and I didn't fancy opening up my Omega all the time to change batteries.
So I've added an inline 2xAA battery holder to the side. It's pretty neat, just a little hatch.
I also added a voltage gauge so I can keep tabs on the batteries, and when they get low I can hot swap them while the system is on so I don't lose data.




The Tower of Power!

 

[donluca]

However, a normal CR2032 will get chewed through in no time at all and I didn't fancy opening up my Omega all the time to change batteries.

This got me wondering... how long do a CR2032 last in a MVS board?

 

[Gummy Bear]

This got me wondering... how long do a CR2032 last in a MVS board?

Weeks in my experience.

 

[donluca]

Weeks in my experience.

holy moly, I hoped it would last at least half year. It's worse than I expected.

Are there any "high capacity" CR2032? Otherwise I'll gladly go your route with 2 AA if they last longer. Heck, I'd even go for a 9V battery with a voltage divider to get it down to 3.3V (or whatever is the value).

 

[Gummy Bear]

holy moly, I hoped it would last at least half year. It's worse than I expected.

Are there any "high capacity" CR2032? Otherwise I'll gladly go your route with 2 AA if they last longer. Heck, I'd even go for a 9V battery with a voltage divider to get it down to 3.3V (or whatever is the value).

All CR2032's are pretty much the same.
You can get bigger coin cells of course, but if you're going that route you might as well go all the way and go for double AA.
I put a lithium CRAA (basically a 3v AA) in another MV-1C and it only lasted a couple of months.

 

[Xian Xi]

This got me wondering... how long do a CR2032 last in a MVS board?

On mine about 2-3 years. If it's only lasting weeks then something is wrong.

 

[Gummy Bear]

Yes

 

[donluca]

On mine about 2-3 years. If it's only lasting weeks then something is wrong.

Gosh, thank you for your post. I was already freaking out and thinking about alternatives.

I guess I'll try with a new fresh-out-of-the-patcket CR2032 and see how long it lasts for me and then decide if going the 2xAA route.

 

[shadowkn55]

On mine about 2-3 years. If it's only lasting weeks then something is wrong.

Sometimes it depends on the type of backup ram used. Most of them use the extra low power variant and do fine with a coin cell battery. Some of them use standard power chips (not just repair, factory too) and are best suited to having a rechargeable battery.