Makvision 25" monitor power cord...

[malignantpoodle]

Hey guys. For Christmas I got a new(er) 4 slot cab. Now that I have an extra cab, I can work on one. I want to restore it to showroom condition.

Part of this involves a brand spanking new monitor.
I'm looking at this;
http://na.suzohapp.com/monitors/49305600.htm

Now I did search the forums and there are a lot of questions and answers about this unit.

My concern however is the power cord which is sold separately. I asked a guy on Youtube that installed this monitor how the power cord was laid out and he said that it had a 3 prong for a wall socket on the end...
Honestly I don't know what the point of that is. I don't want another power cord running out of the cab. Can this not be wired in where the existing monitor is? In my cab, I've got a simple black wire/white wire that plugs in with a molex that is keyed so that it can only plug in one direction.

I'd like the setup to be like that.
I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, it's just hard for me to drop hundreds on a product I've never seen, handled, and know little about. Just want to make sure that it's going to work the way I want it to first and for those that own this monitor or know about it, any insight would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[Kid Panda]

i dont think the makvision needs an isolation transformer, so you could feasibly cut the three prong and feed two power leads and a ground to the power supply if im not mistaken, someone please correct me if im wrong

 

[NEO-GEO man]

Honestly I don't know what the point of that is.

Then leave electrical work to a qualified electrician. This will seriously reduce your chances of becoming dead.

 

[Dion]

If this uses a computer style power cord it probably would be easier for you to replace the power connector in the cabinet with a female three prong extension cord plug replacement than to modify the power cord for the new monitor.

Before you do that check the power supply for your cabinet and see if it has a service plug on it. Since this monitor doesn't need an ISO you could just plug it into the service plug if it exists.

Of course I'm a cheap ass so I would just service the old monitor. I just did a complete service on a K7000 that hadn't been worked on EVER. It was in my Lethal Enforcers cab. After a few caps and a few tweeks with my CR7000 tube rejuvenator it looks brand-spanking new!

 

[malignantpoodle]

If this uses a computer style power cord it probably would be easier for you to replace the power connector in the cabinet with a female three prong extension cord plug replacement than to modify the power cord for the new monitor.

That would definitely be an option. Would you happen to have a link or an image of that item? That would solve a lot of problems for me.

I'll have to pull the cab out later and see if there's a service plug. Where the PSU is though I'm running through my mind as to how in the world I'd be able to get a cord plugged into it if it had it. Would probably involve removing the lower back panel which is stapled in, no screws there.

Anyway, the monitor in this cab does have a new flyback and caps, but the screen is still a bit wavy and I can't get the focus perfect. Edges of the screen remain blurry while closer to the center the focus is sharp. By all means the screen is very good, but it's not perfect and I'd rather just throw a brand new screen in there and use that one for an upcoming ST-V cab project.

Then leave electrical work to a qualified electrician. This will seriously reduce your chances of becoming dead.

Uh, I'm referring to the concept of powering the monitor on an external outlet instead of the power supply like almost all monitors out there use. It's a stupid design. Really nothing to do with my understanding of electricity.

 

[Kid Panda]

After a few caps and a few tweeks with my CR7000 tube rejuvenator it looks brand-spanking new!

i need to burn mine myself, its real dark in the neo right now

 

[Tyranix95]

I have a SUZO*HAPP Ultimate Power Supply with On/Off Switch - 150 Watt.

It has a service plug on the PSU.

It is not in the tech. spec below though.

In the diagram, the three prong female (service) socket is located just to the right of the three prong male power socket--where the 5 AMP switch is located. And the 5 AMP switch is located, just below and in between the two sockets.

 

[NEO-GEO man]

Uh, I'm referring to the concept of powering the monitor on an external outlet instead of the power supply like almost all monitors out there use. It's a stupid design. Really nothing to do with my understanding of electricity.

What is stupid about it?



Now im not trying to insult you or be rude or anything like that here, but are you an electrician? I only ask cause i think if you were and you had a very good knowledge of electricity i dont think you would need to ask this question, and it concerns me quite alot when unqualified people are working with electricity.... Its rather a dangerous thing....

 

[da66en]

8liners has 25" CRTs for $250. Not sure if it comes with a chassis. A bit cheaper than what you are looking at (because what you are looking at is also medium and hi res).

 

[malignantpoodle]

What is stupid about it?



Now im not trying to insult you or be rude or anything like that here, but are you an electrician? I only ask cause i think if you were and you had a very good knowledge of electricity i dont think you would need to ask this question, and it concerns me quite alot when unqualified people are working with electricity.... Its rather a dangerous thing....

It's stupid because it's unnecessary to design an arcade monitor that is powered only by an external socket rather than the existing power supply wiring. It's like designing a car that can only be entered by crawling through the trunk, and then having people come along and saying, "well you're not a mechanic" and subsequently implying that I shouldn't criticize the design.
I don't take it that you're being rude or insulting, just that you're missing the point.

I have a SUZO*HAPP Ultimate Power Supply with On/Off Switch - 150 Watt.

It has a service plug on the PSU.

It is not in the tech. spec below though.

I hear ya. Yeah my stock PSU has the service outlet as well, but it's oriented externally and running a cord outside was something I was trying to avoid. I'll probably just plan on going with that until I can examine the thing in person to see what can be done.

 

[Tyranix95]

The cooling fan on the side of the PSU takes air into the PSU. And the cooling fan on top of the PSU pushes air out of the PSU.

I've seen computers set up with air ducts from the back of the case to cooling fans inside the tower (like a CPU).

Just a thought: You could set the PSU back in the cab, a few inches or so, and use a small, short cooling duct to connect the the back of the cab to the PSU's side cooling vent (fan); then, the PSU's service switch will be inside the cab.

But, this is not a factory, showroom, brand spanking new setup.

--------------------------------------------------------------

And I don't know a lot about monitors.

But I think the NEO uses a Low Resolution (320x224) (CGA) monitor. (1, 2, 3.)

And I think Low Resolution is also called Standard Resolution. (4.)

 

[NEO-GEO man]

It's stupid because it's unnecessary to design an arcade monitor that is powered only by an external socket rather than the existing power supply wiring. It's like designing a car that can only be entered by crawling through the trunk, and then having people come along and saying, "well you're not a mechanic" and subsequently implying that I shouldn't criticize the design.
I don't take it that you're being rude or insulting, just that you're missing the point..

No i dont think its really like that at all, the bit that has me baffled here is why you dont just connect it into the cabinet's power splitter, if indeed it has one, and i just wonder why you would go to the power supply?? Doesnt this cab have a splitter block in it with a heap of 3 pin connections for the cabinet fans and various other electrical requirements such as lights and the SELV power supply for the game board?

Just let me add abit extra here which you may not have been aware of and i didnt think to add sooner...

This monitor youre looking at is also the same or very simular monitor used in quite alot of gambling machines ( poker machines, pokies, what ever you like to call them where youre from ) and inside a modern gambling machine is a purpose built computer mainboard, supplied in almost all cases by an ATX power supply. The monitor in these machines is usually a 31kHz capable display for the higher resolution that these simple games run at. The power configuration in almost every machine is from the wall socket to the ATX supply, then another cable from the ATX supply to the monitor supply. It is done this way so the gambling machine will have minimal down time in the event it requires the monitor replaced, and it can be done in about 5 minutes, and has a simple standard plug for power.

 

[malignantpoodle]

1. The monitor has no power cable.
2. Yes, I have a splitter block. No it does not have 3 pin connectors. Even if it did, the monitor doesn't interface with the 3 pin connector
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pp0tPh1994c
2:50 mark
I mean, if I had a connector that would fit this monitor already in the cab I wouldn't have even started this thread...
3. The monitor is designed this way to leave supplying power up to the user so that it can be used in any cab configuration. By making a power cord that plugs into a wall, it doesn't matter what your power setup is you can run the monitor. In the end, this is counterproductive.

The power configuration in almost every machine is from the wall socket to the ATX supply, then another cable from the ATX supply to the monitor supply.

I disagree. Most machines do not use a standard AC socket to supply power to the monitor.

In any case, I've purchased the monitor and it is on the way to me now. I will run the power cord to an outlet just to get it running. Then when I have it in my possession and can examine it in person, I'll figure out how to wire it in like the current monitor is off of the power supply.

 

[NEO-GEO man]

You disagree? Im not asking if you agree or not, im telling you how a gambling machine is supplied power. How much experience on poker or other gambling machines do you have?? There is 280 of them where i work for a start... I didnt say they use a standard socket to supply power either, nor did i say it plugs into a wall separate from the rest of the machine...

Im an electrician by trade, and this config makes PERFECT sense to me, so why doesnt it make sense to you?? Its a parallel power connection...

When it arrives, if youre still stuck, take some pictures of where the power supply goes into the monitor chassis, and i will tell you exactly what to do...

 

[Dion]

NEO-GEO man was just talking about the ATX style power supplies and how the monitor power is relayed from it. The original supply in your machine is an ATX (or Computer style) supply. The power from the outlet goes to the PS and then the AC current is actually passed-through the PS and sent to either the ISO or in some cases directly to the monitor if the monitor has a built-in ISO. In newer applications such as newer gambling machines the monitor would be powered in a way as to cut down time in a machine. So that it would be easier to simply replace the monitor with another one and work on the bad one at a later time rather than keep the game down while working on it. The monitor you bought isn't designed to be a drop in replacement for the Neo-Geo.

I'm going to run by Lowe's tomorrow and pick up the adaptor you'll want to use. We'll have to run a ground wire off of the ISO but that's easy. I'll snap some pics for you tomorrow.

 

[NEO-GEO man]

Yeah that is what im saying, pretty much spot on

 

[Dion]

I wasn't home all day. I'll attempt to get pics posted tomorrow. I did get my trip to Lowe's out of the way though.

 

[malignantpoodle]

I'm going to run by Lowe's tomorrow and pick up the adaptor you'll want to use. We'll have to run a ground wire off of the ISO but that's easy. I'll snap some pics for you tomorrow.

Hey no rush on the pictures and I appreciate you going out of your way to show me the part I'll need. I'll have it running through the service outlet for the time being so whenever you get around to it is fine, take your time.

[quote="NEO-GEO man]You disagree? Im not asking if you agree or not, im telling you how a gambling machine is supplied power. How much experience on poker or other gambling machines do you have?? There is 280 of them where i work for a start... I didnt say they use a standard socket to supply power either, nor did i say it plugs into a wall separate from the rest of the machine...

Im an electrician by trade, and this config makes PERFECT sense to me, so why doesnt it make sense to you?? Its a parallel power connection...[/quote]

I'm referring to powering a machine with 2 cords running from it. That configuration is silly. If you disagree, that's your opinion. If you're talking about a configuration where only one cord is running from a machine, that's a different story altogether.

I don't know or care how a poker machine works. I simply want my machine set up in a way that's practical and convenient. Running 2 cords to a power strip is neither. I'm not a mechanic but I can change a tire. I'm not a botanist either but I have a garden. And I'm not an electrician but I have rebuilt one of my cabs from a non-functional state to one that is now the best cab I've ever played on. The latter of which has happened due to people on these forums answering questions and helping me along the way like that which is happening now.

 

[clutch]

I got a Rodotron that had a 3-prong power cord. Out of the other end, it terminated in 2 wires going to a molex connector and one wire that had a loop connector that you would bolt onto the frame. My Blast City power at the chassis had two wires for power going into the same size molex connector. I just tossed the rodotron plug and plugged the BC's connector into the chassis. Worked like a charm.

 

[NEO-GEO man]

I'm referring to powering a machine with 2 cords running from it. That configuration is silly. If you disagree, that's your opinion. If you're talking about a configuration where only one cord is running from a machine, that's a different story altogether.

I don't know or care how a poker machine works. I simply want my machine set up in a way that's practical and convenient. Running 2 cords to a power strip is neither. I'm not a mechanic but I can change a tire. I'm not a botanist either but I have a garden. And I'm not an electrician but I have rebuilt one of my cabs from a non-functional state to one that is now the best cab I've ever played on. The latter of which has happened due to people on these forums answering questions and helping me along the way like that which is happening now.

Yes i know what youre refering to, but you dont seem understand what im refering to at all, because im not saying run two power cords out. But youre not understanding what i am saying, and this is cause i cant explain it to you any better way, if i said this to any other electrician i know they would have it done in 5 minutes. You still dont seem to follow that im not saying to use 2 cords, even though i just told you its a parallel connection, which means active to active, neutral to neutral, and earth to earth, INSIDE the cab, and ONE cable goes to the wall socket. Use screw connectors to make the connections if you have to. This is so simple the only way i could make it any easier is wire it for you.

The poker machine example is given cause this monitor youre getting is also used as it is in poker machines, hence why it has the socket on it that it does. A poker machine is not at all far different to an arcade game machine.

There is a HUGE difference between not being any of those other things and doing those jobs, but electrical work is not something you should take so lightly. Unlicenced electrical work is the cause of alot of fires and electricutions, and this is cause there are things you simply NEED to understand about the effects of electricity which most people are completely unaware of.

 

[malignantpoodle]

Yes i know what youre refering to, but you dont seem understand what im refering to at all, because im not saying run two power cords out. But youre not understanding what i am saying, and this is cause i cant explain it to you any better way, if i said this to any other electrician i know they would have it done in 5 minutes. You still dont seem to follow that im not saying to use 2 cords, even though i just told you its a parallel connection, which means active to active, neutral to neutral, and earth to earth, INSIDE the cab, and ONE cable goes to the wall socket. Use screw connectors to make the connections if you have to. This is so simple the only way i could make it any easier is wire it for you.

You never stated any of this. At all. You said to leave it to an electrician, and then you went on with why the design has merits. You never gave any kind of instruction until now. Scroll up. I did. You say that you can't explain it a better way but you never even attempted to explain how I can set this up.

In any case, I have 2 wires, not 3. Thanks though.

There is a HUGE difference between not being any of those other things and doing those jobs, but electrical work is not something you should take so lightly. Unlicenced electrical work is the cause of alot of fires and electricutions, and this is cause there are things you simply NEED to understand about the effects of electricity which most people are completely unaware of.

Which is precisely why I'm asking about it here instead of just going ahead with it willy nilly. I want it done right and safely and that will happen. I'm not going to go to school for years so I can wire in a monitor, nor do I need to.

 

[NEO-GEO man]

My appologies, explainations are not what i do best. This is probably cause to me, this is so simple and straight forward, and where i live, it would be totally illegal for you to wire up a mains voltage connection without some sort of qualification.

It should be quite obvious though which 2 wires you have ( you MUST have active and neutral for it to work ), and the cable that exits the cab should indeed be 3 wires, and not 2. Your monitor has a protective earth, and it really SHOULD be connected. If your cord doesnt have an earth, you should get a new one that does. Its important.

So if you get a screw terminal big enough to take 3x 1.5mm cross sectional area flexible cable, take the 2 actives, one from the SELV power supply and the one for the monitor, twist them together with the active for your supply cord, do the same with the 3 neutrals you have, and then using a 3rd screw connector, connect the monitor's earth to the supply cord earth. Do a search to find out what colour indicates active and neutral if its not marked.

 

[Dion]

In the original cabinet setup the actual power connector only has two wires, live and neutral. The ground is connected to the monitor frame rather than through a connector. Almost every arcade cab is this way in the US.

I'm going to have him wire in a female three prong extension cord socket on the cabinet side. That way the power cord for the monitor can simply be plugged in rather than cutting up the cord. Pics today I promise.

 

[Dion]

Ok. Here is what I would do in your case rather than cutting your new power cord and splicing in the old connector.

First, buy one of these (or one like them) female power cord sockets from your local home improvement center:

This is what your existing power plug should look like:

Cut the plug off leaving a few inches of wire attached and save it. You may use it at a later time to convert it back or on another project. I reuse them quite a bit...

Go ahead and strip about 1/4 inch off the end of the wires you just cut the plug off of.

Next we are going to screw these wires into the new socket. It won't hurt your monitor if you reverse live and neutral but for the sake of doing things properly let's wire it to code.

Here is a crude diagram and pic:

Looking at the screw side of the socket, screw the black wire into the left terminal and screw the white wire into the right terminal. Now grab one of the green cabinet grounds or add a new one and screw it into the bottom terminal. Here is a generic pic showing a ground terminal block in the bottom of a cab:

This isn't a pic of a Neo cab. Its actually my Ridge Racer 2 project I'm working on. Should be similar in the Neo though.

If you had a green wire attached to your old monitor frame you can use it on the bottom terminal of your socket. With the socket wired this way you won't need to attach a ground wire to the new monitor chassis. Won't hurt anything if you do though.

Your new cable should be long enough to lay on the bottom of the cabinet. My suggestion is to secure the socket to somewhere in the cabinet so that it isn't flopping around all willy-nilly. Zip ties and a staple gun do the trick for me.

So just plug the new monitor cord in and it should be good to go. Note that we didn't bypass the ISO. This will keep that added level of protection (not necessary with this new monitor) but more importantly if you put a different monitor back in or sell your cabinet without this monitor to someone else the ISO is already in there and ready to go!

 

[malignantpoodle]

OMG thank you so much this is exactly what I needed!

You rock man.