CPS-2 black rental unit pink screen, not booting

Artemio

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I have several other CPS-2 boards, and have changed teh batteries in them all. But I was playing Marvel VS Capcom on my cabinet today, the asian rental version in a black metal case, and it worked perfectly fine.

010820091090.jpg


However, a few hours later I tried booting it up and got this pink screen instead:

010820091091.jpg


I opened it up and checked the battery voltage, since I have read somewhere else that a blue solid screen meant a suicide board. However the battery is still giving a steady 3.6 since I just changed it a few weeks ago.

I also checked voltages and moved the cps-2 to my supergun, with the exact same results.

Any ideas on what it could be?
 

andy251203

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The encryption probably somehow got corrupted. Maybe something got shorted or the board went for too long without a battery when you were changing it. Once it's corrupted, it's as good as dead. And I don't think these can be phoenixed like traditional CPS2 B boards.
 

Artemio

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those are certainly bad news... It must have been a short within gthe cabinet then, I checked the date when the battery was replaced and it is close to two months ago. I guess it wouldn't have lived so much without it.

Hopefully it can be phoenixed, I'll contact Razoola when he's back from vacation I guess.

I'll check the cabinet for shorts then...
 

twalden

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Raz says they can probably be Phoenixed, he just doesn't have the equipment to do it. I'm sure here he will post with more info soon. The all in 1 black boards don't use the same socketed EPROMS that the typical B boards use to store the encrypted data. They use a SIMM I believe.
 
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Dion

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I can tell you from experience that you can't change these batteries like you can the b-boards. The single boards die the moment you remove the battery without power or helper battery. Its almost as bad as CPS3.

On that note. I changed my 3S battery two weeks ago and it worked for 2 days. I left on vacation for a week and it was dead when I got back. Battery was still good. Solder job was still tight. Just dead...

I sent a couple of these to someone who is trying to figure a way to revive them. We'll see.
 

Artemio

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Just checked the board form the other side... Since these boards are not as well protected, it seems we bent the board a bit in the wrong way, and the solder from the positive terminal of the battery was not as well soldered as possible.

Indeed, it suicided when we took a break for lunch.


----
EDIT: Got news from Raz, indeed nothing can be done for it. May it rest in peace. Mitsurugi-w, now all out hopes are in your hands.
 
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Artemio

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I was half hoping for the same tony starks, thanks for the sympathy.
 

Xian Xi

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Make sure you check the voltage from the points that the battery leads to and not on the battery leads. If you make a cold solder joint the voltage might not pass to the pad. So even though you are getting 3.6v at the battery the board might not be getting it. Just a possibility.
 

mainman

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I can tell you from experience that you can't change these batteries like you can the b-boards. The single boards die the moment you remove the battery without power or helper battery. Its almost as bad as CPS3.

On that note. I changed my 3S battery two weeks ago and it worked for 2 days. I left on vacation for a week and it was dead when I got back. Battery was still good. Solder job was still tight. Just dead...

I sent a couple of these to someone who is trying to figure a way to revive them. We'll see.

There is a current limiter resistor in series with the battery that you must not bypass if using a helper battery when you are changing the battery on the all in one boards that is not present or just not in the way like the b board counter part. Bypassing the battery is like flipping a coin, you might get away with it or not, also if the resistor is damaged or removed the board will definitely die. You don't have the luxary of a capacitance discharge to keep the board alive like the b board counter part either

I have the equipment raz is missing and Mitsurugi-w has donated me some dead boards and I am certain these can be revived provided raz phoenix code is compatible and I can restructure it correctly to accommodate the simms and when I get the programmer adapter together
 

Artemio

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That is great news mainman! Thanks for bringing some hope for my (now dead) board.

Please keep us posted in this regard.
 

Razoola

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As mainman has already explained, these boards can be phoenixed. I have helped people do it in the past, the only problem is I myself dont have a compatable programmer for the devices used.
 

loegan43

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Any news on this topic? I have a single board CPS2 that I'd like to get phoenixed if it's possible.
 
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Artemio

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After that incident and about a year ago I was curious about reviving the single board/black CPS-II hardware.

I did implement a working method, using a working CPS-III Warzard/SFIII-NG board and a modified CD/ISO to write Phoenix code to the CPS-II SIMM.

This works by running the following code (binary not provided):

http://code.google.com/p/black-cps2-phoenix-tool/source/browse/trunk/cps2black.c

That patches the ISO of those games to be used on real hardware, and the SIMM of the CPS-II game in the SIMM #5 position. Rewite the game, and you are as good as done.

Hope this is useful to somebody else
 

Tyranix95

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After that incident and about a year ago I was curious about reviving the single board/black CPS-II hardware.

I did implement a working method, using a working CPS-III Warzard/SFIII-NG board and a modified CD/ISO to write Phoenix code to the CPS-II SIMM.

This works by running the following code (binary not provided):

http://code.google.com/p/black-cps2-phoenix-tool/source/browse/trunk/cps2black.c

That patches the ISO of those games to be used on real hardware, and the SIMM of the CPS-II game in the SIMM #5 position. Rewite the game, and you are as good as done.

Hope this is useful to somebody else

I don't know jack about code?

How would I use this?
 
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