On a personal reading the Sunday paper level, it bothers me that Uighers are more likely than not having their cultural and religious identities erased, but i'm not out protesting about it, nor am I prepared to send my sons off to war about it. In particular because the people in those areas are not prepared / willing to put their lives on the line for it (on a mass scale).
Nope. Many have put their lives on the line. They were labeled terrorists, and that was that.
I don't think I ever talked much about what I experienced in Xinjiang in much detail here. I visited in early 2019, when the camps were already in full swing by then.
By that time, mini police stations were set up every 100 meters in almost every city. Facial scanning by CCTV was already up and running. I saw a group of young Uyghur men, no older than 20, get stopped and asked for their ID cards just because they were in a group and walking down the sidewalk. In fact, it was a daily thing to get out their ID cards whenever police asked, for any reason. All that crazy shit about police knocking on the door if people here used a VPN was indeed true in Xinjiang, and it is known that is why some Uyghurs were sent away to the camps, for the crime of using a VPN.
In one city, I was followed for an entire day after checking out of the hotel. I took pictures once I noticed:
Urumqi, the capital city, is not bad compared to every other city in Xinjiang. When I took the train to Turpan, when I got off the train and was about to exit the station, I was told by a worker at the station to hand them by passport. Handing over your passport is not something you do unless it's asked for by police or when traveling just to check. I was made to wait outside with other minorities, and then directed to a police station right on the train station square. I was asked, "Why are you here?", "What's your occupation?", "What hotel will you be staying at?", etc.
In another city, I went to a bus station. When I got to the front of the line, the ticket seller got up, walked away, and called the police. He told me to wait over there. A minute later, I got a phone call. The police knew my phone number, my name, my job. They said they'd be picking me up shortly. Afterwards at the police station I was told that I wasn't allowed to take the bus or a taxi, but I was allowed to take a driver that they approved of.
In Kashgar, I got a phone call in the later afternoon, again police. They told me that the hotel I was staying at was not authorized to allow foreigners to stay. So I had to leave my hotel after a day of being outside going around and try to find a hotel that would accept foreigners. The hotel that the police told me I could stay at was 4x the price of the one I was already at. I eventually walked around and found a place that took me.
Here's a picture I took next to the Id Kah Mosque in Kashgar, which is probably the most famous mosque in Xinjiang:
The day I was followed by the van, I wanted to try and get to talk to the locals, which is something I always do when I travel alone. I walked into a village and saw an old farmer, and he was excited to see an American and invited me into his home for tea, and I said sorry I can't, the police are following me. When I turned around and looked at the van, I saw the driver had gotten out and talked to the old farmer for a minute. And that was the last time I talked to a Uyghur on the street.
There was a beautiful mosque in one city, and I saw a group of people hanging out in front of it. When they saw me, they all dispersed. At that time I was being followed by two Uyghur cops (yes, there were many Uyghurs who were police) on motorycles. I felt like a piece of shit coming here as a tourist, despite being fascinated by the Silk Road from a young age. It was the most horrible experience I have ever had and there are some more things I can think of but just don't want. I paid $100 to change my plane ticket to leave two days earlier.
Here's a mosque with barbed wire out front and a few CCTV cameras:
So that was some of what I experienced in Xinjiang. The paranoia was off the charts. That was also four years ago, and I don't know how things are now or how they have changed. I don't ever want to go back.
I just want to share that it's not as simple as you think. When every purchase you make is being tracked, every group gathering recorded on CCTV, every text message being looked at, people taken away in the middle of the night with no recourse, zero freedom of speech or press and zero chance to send any message out - how exactly do you fight that? With this technology, it has become impossible.
And fuck all those people who call it a hoax or think it's no big deal. I hope they get what's coming to them one day.
Probably should be posting this by VPN but oh well, c'est la vie. That was one of the reasons I never talked much about it before.