Blast City Club
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Odd, I was thinking the possible source of the leak was from the anode based on the areas you showed with the liquid. You would see that clearly though around the anode.
And there is no signs of leakage from the chassis or tube itself correct? Was the monitor stored in a moist area?
300wins
Conan The Librarian,
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That Windy II is cursed I tell you. Should have left it for me so I could gut it, that way nobody else could be cursed with that thing. 
I'm putting these pics/story here, because this is the most active spot for monitor/chassis/cab gurus.
I'm running one of these:
in my Windy II.
Two days ago, the monitor went in 'double vision' mode (rolling picture, w/ image doubled), and shut off. Upon power cycling the cab-screen is solid black.
Today, it powers on/works as normal...for now. This thing has never worked more than a few weeks in a row, since it met Roger. 0_o
I've noticed these traces of goo around the cab...some in front:
...some in the rear:
(That 'stripe' down the middle of the neck/c-rings is a stain, like cola was spilled on it).
Here is a 3 shot sequence of the cab 1) running, 2) a 'smudge' shot close up, to try and illustrate the moisture/goo, and 3) an extreme close up of the liquid (pre gooing) in the bottom seam of the monitor.
Liquid+electricity make me scare.
Halp!!
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Yeah, no obvious leak origination point.
The cab is in a basement; while moist, I keep a dehumidifier running.
I slipped a piece of paper in the seam along the bottom of the monitor, and the liquid I extracted is the consistency of spent transmission fluid, and the color of dirty (grey) RV water, lol.
Jeez, I'm hosed aren't I?
IF ONLY I WOULD HAVE LINED THE INSIDE W/ PINK, ANTI-STATIC BUBBLE WRAP.
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If it was me, I would discharge and pull the monitor, clean up everything proper and look everything over and reassemble back into the cab. Unless you come across the culprit in the process. But that is me, at least a fully cleaned monitor might help source where the leakage is.
Unless someone like channelmaniac or grantspain from AO has personally repaired something like this. Those 2 are great sources when it comes to all different monitors/chassis.
The only 3 things I've seen leak on monitors is:
- Flyback: goopy, oily liquid
- Around the anode cap, varies goopy/oily
- Caps, electrolytic is usually white/beige and can be watery.
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That "stripe" you're referring to on the neck...that looks like a black marker line for the convergence rings. Unless you're referring to something else?
Also that muddy crud at the edges of the tube that you mentioned, I had something similar on a Blast City I picked up (originally Bass Fishing) in the same area. It was around the perimeter of the tube, hidden under the bezel. Isn't that just grime, dirt, lint, etc? It should feel somewhat sticky with age. I think it may be a bit moister in the area than you think. Also, I think that crud has been there for a while, maybe you just never noticed it before. The rest of the pictures you shared show plenty of dirt and grime in various areas.
Pull the monitor and inspect it.
-Stell
Also that muddy crud at the edges of the tube that you mentioned, I had something similar on a Blast City I picked up (originally Bass Fishing) in the same area. It was around the perimeter of the tube, hidden under the bezel. Isn't that just grime, dirt, lint, etc? It should feel somewhat sticky with age. I think it may be a bit moister in the area than you think. Also, I think that crud has been there for a while, maybe you just never noticed it before. The rest of the pictures you shared show plenty of dirt and grime in various areas.
Pull the monitor and inspect it.
-Stell
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grendelrt
Dodgeball Yakuza
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I was thinking about trying to wire a switch into my Jamma harness that would cut the 5v,12v going to the pcb, mainly for my MVS. This way I would be able to switch games without powering down the whole cabinet each time (mainly the monitor). I was looking at super gun tutorials but it looks like most people wire a power switch going to the power supply on those so I couldn't find anything. Anyone know of a suitable switch to do this or have a reservation of why this would be a bad idea?
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From what I've been able to cobble together, it appears the goo is some sort of adhesive that binds the metal shell of the monitor to the tube.
I used to think the goo patches in the cp surround were old coke/nicotine, but now it appears it's this binding agent that has leaked.
The question is-did the temp/humidity changes during our cabs initial trans-ocean voyage to us, cause some of this binding agent to melt/drip?
The 2nd question: if not an outside temp/humidity change...what is causing the binding agent to liquify? If it caused by an abnormal/unsafe level of heat inside the cab...that would suck.
I'm going to pull everything, clean like crazy, and see if the goo returns. I'll also take better climate control precautions in the basement.
Thanks all, for your help!!
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These are here for your perusal, on behalf of a Windy Club member. They are Windy II casters, and we had a member wonder if they are interchangeable w/ Blast casters.
I don't have a Blast, so I dunno. Here are some pics. They attach w/ 4 screws:
I don't have a Blast, so I dunno. Here are some pics. They attach w/ 4 screws:
Chempop
BESTEST Buttrider in chat.Officially No.10 at Schm
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Is that rat hair? Pretty nasty dude.
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here's a picture of a blast city back wheels
the location of screws seem different
the location of screws seem different
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The issue you are most likely having and I've come across as well is highly due to moisture. The metal, sometimes not visible starts to oxidize which kills the bond or breaks it down.
Remember you have a bonding between 2 nonporous materials. The glass isn't the issue, metal is prone to oxidization.
Really need to pull the monitor and give it a good cleaning. IDK how humid your basement gets or if one dehumidifier is enough. Really your call. IDK the history of the monitor or cab either. Sounds like it went thru some hard times prior to your ownership.
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RoadBuster
Crossed Swords Squire
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Hey guys, I'm jumping the gun here a bit but I'll be a member of this club in around 2 months or so. I had a couple of preliminary questions just to make sure I have everything down. (Yeah, in reality I'm just really impatient...)
1. For CPS-2, can I used the 001 loom to hook the board up via JAMMA and then use the A-Board's RCA jacks to hook into the loom's RCA cables? I remember seeing that you have to make sure the loom is wired for line, yeah? Does doing that kill the JAMMA sound for other boards?
2. I'll be picking up a Naomi within a few months as well that will have a Capcom I/O. Without a GD-Rom will a second power supply still be needed? Also, how is a kick harness handled for a Capcom I/O? Does it plug into the Capcom I/O or is it handled another way?
3. Kinda along the same question for the CPS2, I noticed the Jamma-to-MVA card has audio line out. Can this be plugged into the 001 loom for stereo sound?
Sorry for all the questions... need something to occupy my mind while I wait for it, lol.
1. For CPS-2, can I used the 001 loom to hook the board up via JAMMA and then use the A-Board's RCA jacks to hook into the loom's RCA cables? I remember seeing that you have to make sure the loom is wired for line, yeah? Does doing that kill the JAMMA sound for other boards?
2. I'll be picking up a Naomi within a few months as well that will have a Capcom I/O. Without a GD-Rom will a second power supply still be needed? Also, how is a kick harness handled for a Capcom I/O? Does it plug into the Capcom I/O or is it handled another way?
3. Kinda along the same question for the CPS2, I noticed the Jamma-to-MVA card has audio line out. Can this be plugged into the 001 loom for stereo sound?
Sorry for all the questions... need something to occupy my mind while I wait for it, lol.
sparksterz
Camel Slug
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I can answer #2 for you as I just did the same thing. If you are playing a cart only game a second PSU is not needed, however if you plan on net booting it's recommended as the Capcom I/O will not be able to supply enough power to supply the Naomi, and if it does, you're putting on excess strain. If you plan on putting it in a Blast City however you should have a JVS power lead which you can hook up directly to the Naomi, and assuming you're cab is set up properly for JAMMA the Capcom I/O can be powered through the JAMMA harness and the additional power plug from the I/O to the Naomi is not necessary. The kick harness will plug directly into the Capcom I/O next to the JAMMA connector, whether you utilize the extra button plug inside the cabinet, or wire up the buttons to the control panel manually is up to you. My Sanwa panel came preset to have 4, 5, and 6 for players 1 and 2 wired to a CPS2 kick harness so I bypass the internal wiring for my extended buttons. The Capcom I/O will combine the JAMMA buttons and the kick harness buttons and pass the input over USB to the Naomi.
Lemony Vengeance
Mitt Romney's Hairdresser,
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Hold up here.. if he has a blast with a -001 loom (with JVS POWER OUT on it), he won't need a secondary PSU to netboot. He also won't need the Capcom IO to send power to the Naomi. It is fickle though so one is HIGHLY suggested. You can get a SUN PSU and pula the 3 pin power cable into the blast's I/O for 120v of AWESOME.
The extra button loom is what your talking about and comes in two parts. One that plugs into the 10 Pin connector under the CP, the other has a CPS2 end that plugs in to the Capcom I/O, and the other end plugs into the blast's I/O. I can make both of these for you, Although, Windy Gaming may have some in stock (I made these as well). Check with them first.
The extra button loom is what your talking about and comes in two parts. One that plugs into the 10 Pin connector under the CP, the other has a CPS2 end that plugs in to the Capcom I/O, and the other end plugs into the blast's I/O. I can make both of these for you, Although, Windy Gaming may have some in stock (I made these as well). Check with them first.
RoadBuster
Crossed Swords Squire
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Thank you both for your responses. The worst part is waiting till it gets here to see what it has in it, lol.
RoadBuster
Crossed Swords Squire
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As long as it can do straight up Naomi carts, I'll be happy for now.
sparksterz
Camel Slug
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Yes, you're right I kinda mixed two setups in one comment leading to a bit of confusion. Outside a cab you'd want 2 supplies, but inside the cab you're fine with the one. Also, I'm curious, Having read that the SUN PSU can connect right to the I/O of the cab is it recommended to have the NAOMI powered via an additional SUN PSU or does it not really provide any other benefit if you already have a JVS out?