Blast City Club

Broker Of Evil

New Challenger
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Posts
57
I've been tinkering with my set up, mainly just playing with the VGA cable, and now I have a dark video issue over the JAMMA video. The VGA video is still very bright, and seems just fine. Video coming over Jamma is really dark. What have I done?
 

Jassin000

Frenzy Football Player
Joined
Dec 9, 2011
Posts
985
I want to give my control panel a nice scrub down to get rid of some of the gunk in it. Saw the following disassembly guide at AO:

http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15049#p194650

The poster urges not removing the bottom of the control panel without first removing the monitor due to the lower CP supporting the monitor bracket. Does this really mean I can't take the CP off to clean it without removing the monitor? Wasn't planning on messing with the monitor just yet so I was hoping there was a second opinions on this?

Even if this is true (and honestly I don't believe it) I've had my entire CP off many many times to fit the cab sideways thru doors without ever removing the CRT. I guess you could remove the CP and put the bolts back in as a temporary hold just while cleaning.

I've never fully split the body/shell apart, Chempop did... Maybe he can share some information about how accurate that otaku post is (again I think its BS).
 

Chempop

BESTEST Buttrider in chat.Officially No.10 at Schm
Joined
Oct 12, 2010
Posts
3,024
Read that whole (AO) thread, the person saying that the bolts were support for the monitor later realizes that his lower monitor bracket was missing 4 screws. So yeah, disproven.
 

grendelrt

Dodgeball Yakuza
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Posts
633
Did some little project stuff this weekend.

Original 2 slot shell


Repainted and boarded


Set inside, need to add a bracket to the side for safety buts its ok for now


The jump to stereo sound was huge, definitely worth it.
 
Last edited:

cornerstone

King's Dry Cleaner
Joined
Sep 13, 2013
Posts
384
I've been tinkering with my set up, mainly just playing with the VGA cable, and now I have a dark video issue over the JAMMA video. The VGA video is still very bright, and seems just fine. Video coming over Jamma is really dark. What have I done?

Flip the resolution dip switch 1 (SW1) to the up position. The manual states it can be either way for jamma. I don't know what it does technically, but I had that issue after testing the vga and accidentally flipping SW1 fixed it.
 

skate323k137

Professional College Dropout
10 Year Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2013
Posts
4,245
VGA is .7vpp where as JAMMA video is much stronger than that. For a monitor to accept both VGA and JAMMA video levels it would either have to amp the VGA signal or attenuate the JAMMA signal.
 

codecrank

Whip's Subordinate
10 Year Member
Joined
May 2, 2011
Posts
1,751
I've been tinkering with my set up, mainly just playing with the VGA cable, and now I have a dark video issue over the JAMMA video. The VGA video is still very bright, and seems just fine. Video coming over Jamma is really dark. What have I done?

this will happen when your Monitor's vga cable is still hooked up to something. If that's the case, power off the cab, disconnect the vga, power on the cab. The vga "card" of your other system is acting as a load.
 
Last edited:

kuze

Galford's Poppy Trainer
10 Year Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Posts
2,644
Any tricks on removing a stuck ball top from a stock Blast City arcade stick? I was able to swap out the player 2 balltop without any issues at all, but the player 1 one is seriously stuck. It almost seems like it may have been glued in place. I'd rather not replace the whole stick simply to change the balltop color so it matches with my new buttons.

Already tried getting some WD40 up in the area under the balltop where it threads to the shaft. Tried using vice grips on the shaft to hold it in place....nothing. Also tried using a bit of sponge between the screw and my screwdriver on the bottom of the stick, to try and leverage some extra friction. Not really sure what else to try at this point, it's super frustrating after one was so easy to change out.
 

Jassin000

Frenzy Football Player
Joined
Dec 9, 2011
Posts
985
Any tricks on removing a stuck ball top from a stock Blast City arcade stick? I was able to swap out the player 2 balltop without any issues at all, but the player 1 one is seriously stuck. It almost seems like it may have been glued in place. I'd rather not replace the whole stick simply to change the balltop color so it matches with my new buttons.

Already tried getting some WD40 up in the area under the balltop where it threads to the shaft. Tried using vice grips on the shaft to hold it in place....nothing. Also tried using a bit of sponge between the screw and my screwdriver on the bottom of the stick, to try and leverage some extra friction. Not really sure what else to try at this point, it's super frustrating after one was so easy to change out.

Pull the "C" shaft pin on the bottom of the stick, remove the actuator and spring, then pull the whole shaft out. I would just fully replace the shaft, but you could try to bench vice it, then vice grip the ball for a POWER twist.
 

Lemony Vengeance

Mitt Romney's Hairdresser,
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Posts
4,204
then just give to Chem, he'll suck that ball right off in no time.

:vik:
xpu.gif
 

kuze

Galford's Poppy Trainer
10 Year Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Posts
2,644
Pull the "C" shaft pin on the bottom of the stick, remove the actuator and spring, then pull the whole shaft out. I would just fully replace the shaft, but you could try to bench vice it, then vice grip the ball for a POWER twist.

Thanks man. I removed the stick entirely and I'm just going to replace the shaft. Now that I can look at it easier, I can see there's rust/corrosion up in the threading of the shaft and apparently some type of adhesive.
 

skate323k137

Professional College Dropout
10 Year Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2013
Posts
4,245
I never keep the sticks that come on a used cab, I always replace them. It's cheap peace of mind.
 

grendelrt

Dodgeball Yakuza
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Posts
633
Question on the coin chute. I know it worked before being sent to me, but I can't get it recognized by my 2 slot mvs. I checked bios dip 2 which doesn't even show on my hard dip screen like I have seen in other pics. When I hit the test button in the cp it adds credits. The jamma adapter I am using looks like it is wired the same as mvs for credits. Any advice of what else to check?
 

Broker Of Evil

New Challenger
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Posts
57
this will happen when your Monitor's vga cable is still hooked up to something. If that's the case, power off the cab, disconnect the vga, power on the cab. The vga "card" of your other system is acting as a load.
Thanks bro. Worked like a charm.

VGA is .7vpp where as JAMMA video is much stronger than that. For a monitor to accept both VGA and JAMMA video levels it would either have to amp the VGA signal or attenuate the JAMMA signal.
Yeah, I had it where dip 1 was down, dip 2 was up, and dip 3 was down, thinking the VGA dip would do the trick, but once I unplugged it, and plugged it back in, worked like a charm. So relieved to see I hadn't broke anything, that I played all the way through Double Dragon. Again, thank you for the knowledge.

Now, where do I need to put my MM to test the voltage? I have seen a bunch of different answers.
Essentially the metal CP around the test, demag, service, and monitor dips is shocking me slightly whenever I touch the metal edge. All of the grounds looked in place, two on the CP, and one in the bottom of the cab. Kinda trying to both find out if I need to adjust the PSU, or if there's something else going on.
 

skate323k137

Professional College Dropout
10 Year Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2013
Posts
4,245
For testing the voltage of the 5v? I check at the jamma edge and set it to about 5.1 to account for a little voltage lost on the way to the chips. The best way is to check 5v on an actual IC or ROM that's on the board and get it to 5.00, but setting it to 5.1 (but no higher) at the JAMMA edge has always served me well.

Regarding the shocks, set your volt/ohm meter to OHMs (basically to check for continuity). Check the continuity between the ground pin of your AC cord you're using to one of the ground points in the CP for example. Basically, make sure the ground wires are actually all continuous and making it to the plug that you're plugging into your wall socket / stepdown. You should get a reading very close to 0 ohms when you check.
 

codecrank

Whip's Subordinate
10 Year Member
Joined
May 2, 2011
Posts
1,751
Essentially the metal CP around the test, demag, service, and monitor dips is shocking me slightly whenever I touch the metal edge. All of the grounds looked in place, two on the CP, and one in the bottom of the cab. Kinda trying to both find out if I need to adjust the PSU, or if there's something else going on.

I'm guessing that
1) your cab in not using a 3 prong power cord OR/AND your house is old and doesn't has 2 conductor wiring in the walls.
2) your cab is sitting on concrete and you're not wearing shoes with rubber soles when you get shocked ;)

with the cab powered on, take your MM, set it to AC , hold one probe with your fingers and put the other probe on the metal under the control panel ( or any other ground ), this is show you how much juice flows through you when you get zapped :D
 
Last edited:

Broker Of Evil

New Challenger
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Posts
57
For testing the voltage of the 5v? I check at the jamma edge and set it to about 5.1 to account for a little voltage lost on the way to the chips. The best way is to check 5v on an actual IC or ROM that's on the board and get it to 5.00, but setting it to 5.1 (but no higher) at the JAMMA edge has always served me well.

Regarding the shocks, set your volt/ohm meter to OHMs (basically to check for continuity). Check the continuity between the ground pin of your AC cord you're using to one of the ground points in the CP for example. Basically, make sure the ground wires are actually all continuous and making it to the plug that you're plugging into your wall socket / stepdown. You should get a reading very close to 0 ohms when you check.

Removed my MVS, propped the loom connector up on some plastic, powered on the blast, put the ground on pin 1, and touched the positive to both pin 3 and 4, I got 5.14 on both, steady. The 12v read 11.9. Here's my PSU: blastpsu.jpg

I'm guessing that
1) your cab in not using a 3 prong power cord OR/AND your house is old and doesn't has 2 conductor wiring in the walls.
2) your cab is sitting on concrete and you're not wearing shoes with rubber soles when you get shocked ;)

with the cab powered on, take your MM, set it to AC , hold one probe with your fingers and put the other probe on the metal under the control panel ( or any other ground ), this is show you how much juice flows through you when you get zapped :D
GET OUT OF MY HEAD, CHARLES. New house, but we have ground issues in the garage. The cab is indeed on a concrete floor, and I always play without shoes. What kind of weirdo plays Breaker's Revenge with footwear on?
 
Top