Blast City Club

[Coleridge]

300, can you post the folks who can fix them just in case? My monitor is a little finnicky.

 

[codecrank]

I've had multiple people hit me up with this.

want a repro 2L12B Blast city panel ?

cheapest way:

get a 2L12B plate from Ken @ thegameroom 70$
get an overlay from Scott @ gameongrafx 26$ , I just uploaded my print ready file on AO http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/0/0a/Blast-2p-cpo-print-ready.png

Don't know if Jansen does poly prints on sega plates, check with him too.

moneybags way:

get in touch with riverservice

 

[Coleridge]

Good info codecrank. Thanks man.

 

[grendelrt]

I've had multiple people hit me up with this.

want a repro 2L12B Blast city panel ?

cheapest way:

get a 2L12B plate from Ken @ thegameroom 70$
get an overlay from Scott @ gameongrafx 26$ , I just uploaded my print ready file on AO http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/0/0a/Blast-2p-cpo-print-ready.png

Don't know if Jansen does poly prints on sega plates, check with him too.

moneybags way:

get in touch with riverservice

Thanks for this info Codecrank, I also had a couple questions if you guys could help.

1. My blast city comes Friday, I picked up a MVS 2 slot on ebay, I know my Blast City is wired for Jamma according to Chris. So I need to pick up a MVS to JAMMA Cabinet adapter (http://www.jammaboards.com/store/neogeo-mvs-to-jamma-inline-adapter-mvs2jamma.html) . It says in the description "Standard Molex connector is provided for optional JAMMA stereo speaker setup. " but also has an options for

** J1 Interface cable contains 10 color coded wires, professionally crimped into a mating Molex 2.54mm 10 pin connector. All wires have standard .187" quick disconnect terminals attached for fast installation. This harness is only recommended if you intend to connect any of the J1 Interface connections. Remember, Player 1/2 button D are also connected to JAMMA side pins 25/cc so the J1 is just another connection option. Also, the Game Select features are also already routed to Players 1 & 2 button A so that connection on the J1 Interface is only required if you would like to install separate Game Up/Down selector buttons.

** J2 Stereo cable uses 4 color coded wires, approx. 6.5' in length, and professionally crimped into a mating Molex 2.54mm 4 pin connector. All wires have crimped on .250" quick disconnect terminals for a fast connection directly up to the speakers. This is only required if the installation JAMMA cabinet has two 8-ohm speakers installed for stereo sound.

Would I need any of these? Also is this a good adapter to get?

2. I am also going to need a kick harness I assume if I want to go 7 button (4 in neo geo layout then 3 on bottom). What other things would I need to support this setup (an extra harness for the 7th button)?

Is there one person on here that could supply everything to make it easy and cheaper lol.

3. I am also looking at picking up some Seimitsu buttons (i prefer them a little less sensitive) and Sanwa stick (this is what fits the blast city right? Can you use a Seimitsu?). Any advice on the type of buttons to use (push, screw, etc).

4. Is there a faq or post on running 7 button layout anywhere, including where to drill?

I know its a bunch of crap, any help would be appreciated!!!

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

Chris at windy gaming and I will be working together to fill harness and control panel loom needs! Chris will be reaching out to people with pre-order info soon.

 

[skate323k137]

Running 7 buttons in a blast isn't too hard. The JAMMA harness will already have 1-4 wired for you so that'll work fine with the MVS/JAMMA adapter.

You'll basically have buttons 1-4 on JAMMA on one row on your CP, and buttons 4-6 to the kick harness on the bottom row. The bottom row (4-6) will wire to the extra button loom inside the panel, and if you get a blast city cps2 kick harness for the main "bay" you'll be set.

Inside the blast CP there are 3 connectors for buttons/joysticks. You'll need two normal 1p looms which will cover your joysticks / start buttons / buttons 1-4 for each player. Then you just need the extra button loom for 4-6K. That one loom handles 4-6 for both players.

It'll make a lot more sense when the cab is in your hands.

As far as drilling I assume you mean for the extra button; there are some threads around here on how to use a sheet metal punch or other tool(s) to get the extra 30mm hole(s) in your panel.

Sound wise it will depend if you get the JAMMA only loom, or the "001" jamma / JVS loom. If you get lucky and have the 001 loom you'll be pretty well set for stereo audio as is, you'll just need to have an adapter made to connect the 4 pin connector on the MVS/JAMMA adapter to the loom on the blast.

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

The cp loom for both players may not be wired for buttons 4 and 5. If you have more than one missing wire in the 12 pin loom connector under the cp, they're only wired for buttons 1-3.

 

[skate323k137]

The cp loom for both players may not be wired for buttons 4 and 5. If you have more than one missing wire in the 12 pin loom connector under the cp, they're only wired for buttons 1-3.

Yeah as far as the loom inside the CP. The "backside" is usually wired for at least four though isn't it?

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

The full JAMMA harness is wired for buttons 4 and 5 though, a CP loom mod or swap will fix you up right.

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

Yeah as far as the loom inside the CP. The "backside" is usually wired for at least four though isn't it?

Yep!

 

[grendelrt]

Wow thanks guys! I was hoping to order something before it got here, but I guess I need to wait until it gets here to figure out what loom I have currently. Any advice on what type of buttons and sticks to order for a new 2L12B from Ken? I think I read only sanwa sticks work? What type of buttons are generally used, push or screw type? I can at least order all that so I can add 2 buttons to my current 1 player panel until I order my new one.

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

Depends on the CP. I have a seimitsu panel on my blast. Buttons.. Well depends on preference. Seimitsu buttons are stiffer and not as sensitive as Sanwa, while sanwas are really really sensitive. Good for fighting games.

 

[grendelrt]

Depends on the CP. I have a seimitsu panel on my blast. Buttons.. Well depends on preference. Seimitsu buttons are stiffer and not as sensitive as Sanwa, while sanwas are really really sensitive. Good for fighting games.

Yeah I have sanwas in my SF4 TE stick and I dont like them for anything other than fighting games. Figured I would go with Seimitsu instead, but wasnt sure if using push type or screw type buttons both fit the blast panel.

Edit: Found some posts, sounds like screw type is the way to go and should fit basically any panel.

 

[urmyokazu]

Just got my Blast delivered today in the morning so I can join the club
A connection seems to be loose however in the cab, the screen will sometimes have a yellow tint which will go away if you slap the side. I've uploaded a video to show it happening:

I'm thinking it's one of the connectors going from the monitor to some connectors near the control panel. I'm guessing it's those connectors because tapping on the bottom bezel area can cause the screen to go yellow like in the video. I tried pushing them in as much as I could but I had a hard time reaching around to the other connector.

Basically wanting y'alls opinion before I start taking it apart more and making sure all the connections are good. If you think it could be something else please let me know.

 

[grendelrt]

That sucks man, hopefully it will be an easy fix. I do find it hilarious the first thing you thought of is let me slap this shit, old school

 

[dipindods]

fonzi fix

 

[masamuneGTO]

Just got my Blast delivered today in the morning so I can join the club
A connection seems to be loose however in the cab, the screen will sometimes have a yellow tint which will go away if you slap the side. I've uploaded a video to show it happening:



I'm thinking it's one of the connectors going from the monitor to some connectors near the control panel. I'm guessing it's those connectors because tapping on the bottom bezel area can cause the screen to go yellow like in the video. I tried pushing them in as much as I could but I had a hard time reaching around to the other connector.

Basically wanting y'alls opinion before I start taking it apart more and making sure all the connections are good. If you think it could be something else please let me know.

Check all of your ground wires. one is probably making contact somewhere in the control panel area.

 

[codecrank]

A connection seems to be loose however in the cab, the screen will sometimes have a yellow tint which will go away if you slap the side. I've uploaded a video to show it happening:

it's the blue you're loosing. with light, green+red = yellow.

> tapping on the bottom bezel area can cause the screen to go yellow like in the video

sounds like a loose connection with the monitor remote board. or maybe the remote board pots. just check those connections and jiggle the blue pot.

 

[grendelrt]

Quick question, I measured my doors and have around 32inches of width, I see on hard candy the width of the cabinet is ~30 inches, so I should be ok. But just in case, if I needed to remove something like the control panel to get it inside, what tools what I need? Are they torx, philips, bolts?

 

[Chempop]

Taking off the control panel isn't going to make the cab narrower. You'll be fine.

 

[skate323k137]

Quick question, I measured my doors and have around 32inches of width, I see on hard candy the width of the cabinet is ~30 inches, so I should be ok. But just in case, if I needed to remove something like the control panel to get it inside, what tools what I need? Are they torx, philips, bolts?

the bolts that hold on the CP lower half are standard (metric I'd assume) hex bolts; socket set oughta do it. Take screw drivers too (Phillips) just in case. Like chempop said though you'll probably be fine.

What kind of vehicle are you loading into? I used my rav4 and the cab fit fine on its side with the CP on.

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

Taking off the control panel isn't going to make the cab narrower. You'll be fine.

it will make it easier to move into doors on its side though.

 

[grendelrt]

the bolts that hold on the CP lower half are standard (metric I'd assume) hex bolts; socket set oughta do it. Take screw drivers too (Phillips) just in case. Like chempop said though you'll probably be fine.

What kind of vehicle are you loading into? I used my rav4 and the cab fit fine on its side with the CP on.

Its being delivered to my front door so I dont have to worry about that part, just getting it in the door haha.

 

[Chempop]

it will make it easier to move into doors on its side though.

Why do you think so? The wheels make straight forward/back movement easier, not sideways.

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

True, but fiberglass slides very well on carpet, especially when the cabinet is on its side.