Blast City Club

codecrank

codecrank

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grendelrt said:
Is there a specific model of the sun PSU that is recommended? Could you use an ATX PSU, I have some of those laying around.
Click to expand...

ATX PSUs don't have adjustable voltages. the naomi system is EXTREMELY sensitive to precise voltages, else it doesn't boot, freezes up, etc. I use the stock BC PSU but i have to adjust the voltages everytime I put the naomi in if I had preciously changed them.
 
grendelrt

grendelrt

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Ah that's a pain, so going with sun PSU off the io port would prevent that then.
codecrank said:
ATX PSUs don't have adjustable voltages. the naomi system is EXTREMELY sensitive to precise voltages, else it doesn't boot, freezes up, etc. I use the stock BC PSU but i have to adjust the voltages everytime I put the naomi in if I had preciously changed them.
Click to expand...
 
kuze

kuze

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If you've got an atx PSU from that period that delivers a solid 5.0v under load, it may work. I've got one that I use to power both my Naomi and capcom IO when I play it through my supergun. I didn't have good results from a more modern ATX PSU though.
 
Lemony Vengeance

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sparksterz said:
Yes, you're right I kinda mixed two setups in one comment leading to a bit of confusion. Outside a cab you'd want 2 supplies, but inside the cab you're fine with the one. Also, I'm curious, Having read that the SUN PSU can connect right to the I/O of the cab is it recommended to have the NAOMI powered via an additional SUN PSU or does it not really provide any other benefit if you already have a JVS out?
Click to expand...

I plan on powering my netdim setup with the additional PSU. Even though it's not needed, I don't want to have to CRANK my blast PSU to the max to netboot.
 
sparksterz

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huh...I guess I wasn't aware that hooking up the Sun PSU to the Blast City I/O drew the power from the line rather than from the cabinet power supply itself. I've got a Sun PSU with a hacked up cable...wonder if I can clean it up and get it working inside my cab.
 
Lemony Vengeance

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sparksterz said:
huh...I guess I wasn't aware that hooking up the Sun PSU to the Blast City I/O drew the power from the line rather than from the cabinet power supply itself. I've got a Sun PSU with a hacked up cable...wonder if I can clean it up and get it working inside my cab.
Click to expand...

adding the connector back isn't too bad :D. It pulls 120v off the board as if it were a separate outlet.
 
grendelrt

grendelrt

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Where is the best place to get a sun PSU with correct hookups? Are they still made or they a used only deal?
 
Stellarola

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I would see it as being beneficial to have a separate psu for the monitor from the rest of the cabinet. Home users will switch out games constantly, sometimes multiple times a day. Not the case for arcade ops as it would just be powered on once a day. Less wear on the components.
 
grendelrt

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Stellarola said:
I would see it as being beneficial to have a separate psu for the monitor from the rest of the cabinet. Home users will switch out games constantly, sometimes multiple times a day. Not the case for arcade ops as it would just be powered on once a day. Less wear on the components.
Click to expand...

That's why I was trying to add a power switch to my jamma harness, that way I could turn off just the mvs and switch games.
 
codecrank

codecrank

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humm, so back to CN13, has anyone identified which pin is hot and which one is neutral ?
 
skate323k137

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300wins

300wins

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skate323k137 said:
Looking at this and this:

http://24.media.tumblr.com/be92eb69c88704f1dba173089304d262/tumblr_mvermpEWny1qh4xfdo1_500.jpg

http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/b/b9/SegaBlastCityWiring2.jpg

It would appear that 1 is L and 3 is N. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I don't think cn13 is on the pinout, but the 12 pin socket right below it is, and you can follow the traces up. On that socket it looks like 1 is L (red wire), 3 is N (blue wire).
Click to expand...

Since I have actually done this, the LEFT side is: LIVE (black color) and the RIGHT side is: NEUTRAL (white color).
This is if the Blast I/O is mounted as it is normally inside the cab.
 
grendelrt

grendelrt

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Any advantage running 30khz through the VGA in vs running through the Jamma harness?
 
sparksterz

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Lemony Vengeance said:
adding the connector back isn't too bad :D. It pulls 120v off the board as if it were a separate outlet.
Click to expand...

My god I have been having the worst time trying to find connectors as I don't know what terminology to search for. This is what I managed to find:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1445022-3/A30259-ND/684982
I'm assuming I can pick up some of the 20-24 AWG crimping pins and hook it up. Does that seem about right? Or is there a nicer place to pick up a set of common connectors/pins. I sure wouldn't mind having spares on hand!
 
grendelrt

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Last edited:
codecrank

codecrank

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looks right.

the power wiring on the jamma/001 loom is the same gauge I believe, just look at the wires it should say on them.
 
ReplicaX

ReplicaX

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You mean like this Net City that the user dubs "Sega Net City HD"

dsc09649.jpg
 
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