AES No Video Signal via Retrotink

prof

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I recently got a set of HD Retrovision component cables to connect my AES to the television via the Retrotink, and it is not going well. Specifically, I am using:

*3-5 board AES with a serial number just over 100k

*Retrotink 2X Pro Multi-format (https://www.retrotink.com/post/introducing-the-retrotink-2x-pro-multi-format)

*Sony X950H 120hz television (https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/x950h)


When I hook it up, I get audio, but no video signal. I also tried using the stock SNK composite cable, and had the exact same result. The AES works perfectly with that composite cable on an older television.

So I'd like to figure out how to best proceed. My retrotink model works fine with other consoles, but apparently can not properly convert the AES signal in a way that is acceptable to my television. Would trying the 5X Pro yield the same results, or is there more going on in that unit that could fix this? Should I try an OSSC or another type of converter? Is there anything I can do to tweak my current set up to yield a better result? I should mention that I updated the retrotink to the latest firmware, and that did not change the results.

I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, guys.
 

TheMagicianLord

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Never had this exact problem, but when I had an AES I had issues with an oddball SCART cable that was wired for composite video sync (sync on DIN pin 3) that I was using with my Retrotink 5X. When I switched it out to a c-sync cable (sync on DIN pin 7), it worked fine. The HD Retrovision cables work on composite video sync, so if for some reason the composite video signal being put out by the AES is noisy there, the RT may give a black screen. Had my 5X not give any video in a similar situation with a PC Engine and RGB adapter and noisy sync signal.

In any case, it's certainly worth trying a c-sync SCART cable and RT5X if you have them available. I'm not sure I'd suggest buying them as a solution though as there's no guarantee.

Edit: I should also add that on some AES consoles, pin 3 and pin 7 are bridged, so if that's the case on yours, then using a c-sync cable won't make any difference. I'm not sure exactly which board revisions do this, though. Maybe someone else can chime in.
 
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prof

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Interesting. It has occurred to me that a scart cable could yield a different result than the YPbPr component. Admittedly, I don't fully understand the specifics of how it converts the signal from the AES, but I do realize that the component has a bit more processing involved than scart due to the extra sync that isn't in the scart signal. So perhaps that could be the problem here.

And I do not have a 5x Pro, and don't particularly fancy dropping the $325 on one for what would essentially be a gamble. Although, it's not like I couldn't use it for other things, but still. Don't want to go there unless I have to. However, retrotink does make another unit which is scart only. I'm considering trying this combo:




Does anyone have any thoughts or opinions? Thanks.
 

SignOfGoob

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Side question; is it fair to say that pretty much any model of MVS will give good RGB but getting any version of AES to work on anything but a CRT is a crapshoot of variable quality results?
 

prof

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Side question; is it fair to say that pretty much any model of MVS will give good RGB but getting any version of AES to work on anything but a CRT is a crapshoot of variable quality results?
Ha! That's certainly been the case in my experience. Even with this exact retrotink/tv combo.


I should also mention that my AES is Japanese and completely stock. Never added a unibios or anything.
 

Neo Alec

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Side question; is it fair to say that pretty much any model of MVS will give good RGB but getting any version of AES to work on anything but a CRT is a crapshoot of variable quality results?
No way! AES signals work fine (although might need modding to clean up). MVS doesn't even have a signal attenuated for consumer TV's and upscalers without someone doing the mod work. Some of my MVS boards don't work at all with my Framemeister, a problem with MVS boards well-documented by other users.

Not to mention all MVS boards have the 24 MHz crystal, while newer AESes have the more compatible 24.16 MHz one.
 
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Neodogg

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Ha! That's certainly been the case in my experience. Even with this exact retrotink/tv combo.


I should also mention that my AES is Japanese and completely stock. Never added a unibios or anything.
I mean if your AES is Japanese and your TV is Japanese...it should work...
 

Neo Alec

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I mean if your AES is Japanese and your TV is Japanese...it should work...
Sound logic, but don't forget to use a JP-21 cable instead of scart or you'll fry the caps. :D
 

SignOfGoob

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No way! AES signals work fine (although might need modding to clean up). MVS doesn't even have a signal attenuated for consumer TV's and upscalers without someone doing the mod work. Some of my MVS boards don't work at all with my Framemeister, a problem with MVS boards well-documented by other users.

If some AES systems have to be modded then I’m afraid the answer is not “no way”. It’s more like, “Yes, very often” at the very least.

What I’m saying is that in order to make the AES half the price of an MVS while throwing in power supply, NTSC encoder, a controller, and a copy of Three Count Bout they may have cheeped out quite a bit making it a much shittier thing to actually own in opposition of its “premium” image. I’ve never had any of these stupid issues with any system I’ve ever owned.
 

Neo Alec

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If some AES systems have to be modded then I’m afraid the answer is not “no way”. It’s more like, “Yes, very often” at the very least.
No, AES systems don't need to be modded to work with upscalers, which is what the thread is about. MVS depends completly on the consolizing or the supergun.
 

SignOfGoob

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No, AES systems don't need to be modded to work with upscalers, which is what the thread is about. MVS depends completly on the consolizing or the supergun.

You just said up there that “some AES systems” need to be “cleaned up”. Which is it? Are they all fine or do some need help?
 

Neo Alec

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You just said up there that “some AES systems” need to be “cleaned up”. Which is it? Are they all fine or do some need help?
Like many, you're conflating a separate issue here. The clean up I was referring to is the RGB bypass, which addresses jail bars and a generally poor looking signal, but that's not the same as no signal.
 
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prof

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Got a message from Mike Chi (the retrotink guy) today, and he advised against the 5x pro. He said the AES is one of the few consoles they don't recommend it with. He told me that the 2x-scart will work, although the video quality will not be as nice. So, I ordered one, and we'll see how it goes. I'll update the thread at that time in case anyone in the future encounters this same problem.
 

Neo Alec

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Go for the 5X, no question. Mike is awesome, but It's a shame he's discouraging Neo owners away from it. Nearly everyone got their AES working with the 5X by making sure two settings are on.

In fact, I've had better compatibility with various MVS boards on the 5X than on the Framemeister. And you never hear about the Framemeister issues, so that tells you something about how solid the Retrotink 5X is with various Neo Geo models.
 
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TheMagicianLord

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I'm not sure why Mike would discourage the 5X, but I could take a wild guess in line with what I said above. I did initially have trouble with my AES and the 5X when I was using a crappy SCART cable wired for composite video sync. Switching to a c-sync cable fixed it. But, my AES also did not have pins 3 and 7 bridged. I would imagine on boards that do have those pins bridged, if it's putting out a dirty composite video signal, then even a good c-sync cable wouldn't help. Maybe he's being safe in giving recommendations because of some past issues there?
 

prof

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So I've had the 2X-Scart up and going for a couple days now, and I'm happy with it. While the picture is not as sharp as what I get with consoles using component through the 2X-Pro, the fact is that the AES works perfectly, and it looks good enough. It centers on the TV well, and there aren't any weird anomalies on the sides. That's something that has happened with some consoles through the 2x-Pro. So, yeah, it just works, and that's good enough for me. I'm still tempted to try the 5x-Pro with it for a sharper picture, but that's a $325 gamble, and kind of a hassle at this point. Maybe in the future, but this is good for now.

Also, just to be cover all my bases, I hooked up that HD Retrovision cable to a JVC Xeye via the 2x-Pro, and it worked, so the cable was fine. The 2x-Pro just hates my AES.
 

Neo Alec

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Get a 5X. It's an investment for all your consoles.
 

Neo Alec

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GBSC or OSSC as cheaper alternatives are also worth mentioning.
Cheaper, yes. I have an OSSC, but need to get rid of it because it takes too much effort to setup an integer scale, whereas the Retrotink 5X has a built-in function that adjusts it automatically. It has saved me a lot of hassle for capturing systems that don't have decent Framemeister profiles already made.
 

Hattori Hanzo

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Skill issue mate. I bought a GBSC recently to test on a modern TV and it's not that bad. Still playing on a CRT and won't go the Retrotink route myself.
Was too cheap for the OSSC. Fiddling on that stuff is half the fun but I can understand the appeal of plug and play.
 

Neo Alec

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Skill issue perhaps, but to me it's more of a time issue.
 

SignOfGoob

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Damn. If you of all people don’t have time for that endless shit then what hope is there for everyone else?
 

Burning Fight!!

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Skill issue mate. I bought a GBSC recently to test on a modern TV and it's not that bad. Still playing on a CRT and won't go the Retrotink route myself.
Was too cheap for the OSSC. Fiddling on that stuff is half the fun but I can understand the appeal of plug and play.
GBS-Control is nice but it comes with some caveats which might trigger sperging by the goobiest of our forum members. I use it and it's pretty cool.
 
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