AES and PVM 2950Q sync issues

Fandangos

Hardened Shock Trooper
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Aug 15, 2011
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Hey guys I've build a sync box with LM1881 to work with my PVM 2950Q and it works with the following consoles:

SNES
Genesis
PS2
PS1
Xbox

and my mvs consolized.

But I can't get the AES to sync.

The picture come and go all the time. Sometimes it's just black picture.

Any idea if there's anything I could try with the LM1881 circuit?

By the way I'm using the HD/Comp port for sync for some reason the Ext Sync one doesn't work for syncing the systems.
 

theMot

Six foot four and full of muscles
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Is the circuit getting enough power? I have a sync strike and generally it just works with the 5v from the scart input but for some consoles I find it need a little extra juice so I need to connect an external power supply.
 

Fandangos

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Using external PSU here. Got a 5v 350mA.

The datasheet on the LM1881 says it uses 10ma or less so I don't think it might be it.
 

Fandangos

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70k serial and pro-pow-e (10v 1a)

I'll open it up when I get up to see the revision on the board.
 

Fandangos

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Hey, just wanted to post here that I've fixed my AES sync issue.

Just added a 680R resistor on the sync line and it worked :))

Easy fix and I also did the jailbar fix since my AES is 3-6 revision. Working flawless now with my sony pvm 2950q :)))
 

ballzdeepx

Disciple Of Orochi
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Sorry to necro this but I'm having kind of an issue as well.

I can't get my mvs 2 slot to sync properly and im only getting by using composite video off of the JROK (with a 0.uf cap in line) thats in there for sync. As it stands I can get about 30-40 seconds before the screen blinks (goes to black) then corrects itself. This is on a Sony PVM 2950, and I'm using a sync stripper in my scart to BNC cable (which works fine for all other consoles BTW)

I wonder if feeding clean sync to the stripper would even work ( I tried once but got a bunch of rolling, then solid black) or would it alter the signal. Basically do i NEED to feed composite video at this point.

My next idea is going to be trying a 330ohm resistor, or a 75ohm to see if that helps the sync tolerance out ( I based this off the cable diagram for Jamma here)

j2scart.jpg
 

amaradona

Kabuki Klasher
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Mar 25, 2011
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I could get the right sync by using the arcade forge 's sync strike AND a extron sync device.
 

ballzdeepx

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Yikes, that's a lot of work to get sync on this set. I'm hoping theres another way but thanks for the info!
 

ballzdeepx

Disciple Of Orochi
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I think I fixed it.
First I tried a 330ohm resistor, it kept the picture but there was a slight wobble to it - I figured this was a tad too much resistance, so had to remove it.
Next I tried a 100ohm resistor and the picture was blinking like crazy - so it seemed to be too little resistance.
Last I added two 100ohm resistors in line (because I thats all I had left on hand) and it was just right!

I feel like a balding goldie locks after this, but hey it seems to work on this fickle ass PVM!

Thanks for your help and ideas - maybe this might help someone in the future.
 

ballzdeepx

Disciple Of Orochi
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Just to follow up on this, i ended up adding in a 220 resistor and that made it perfect. I also read up and saw some devices like XRGB2 etc have these inline for supergun or arcade PCBs stronger sync output. Hope this helps anyone out with a picky monitor like the 2950 in the future.
 
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skate323k137

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I always use a 220 ohm on all lines from an MVS to a PVM (RGB and Sync) but I never have had to mess with an AES aside from doing some work on one for a friend. Glad you got it working :)
 

amaradona

Kabuki Klasher
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Mar 25, 2011
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Glad you got it working.
I have completely gave up the pvm and bvm route and moved toward the xrgb 3 and pc crt 20 inch combo.
I must say that it gives a lot of flexibility as you can do as well 480p.
 

Atro

Who?,
20 Year Member
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Jan 30, 2002
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9,495
More than once I have trouble with sync issues with AES's on RGB setups.

Turns out if you feed Composite Sync instead of Composite Video, the sync issues are gone.
That's what I had to do on my Scart in order to work flawlessly on my Thomson CRT.

Just had to desolder one pin from the Din8 one side to another. Cake.
 
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