Pc Engine Grey Super Cd Rom 2

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Hungkuen

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Hi I have a grey Super Cd Rom 2 unit and it's gone down on me. I think it could be the lens from what I've read. Either that or the gears which I heard there's no fix for unless you buy another lens unit which includes the gears?

Some cd games worked at first but after a bit the machine was just making repeated clicking noises (the lens clicking against the right hand side?) and the wait a moment message was on the screen. Some games worked for a short time but after a little bit the game cut out. The busy light was also going on and off as if the machine was trying to load the cd but cutting out intermittently.

I've seen a couple of links here further down the page 'PC Engine CD stopped reading discs sad panda' for a replacement lens but thought I may as well try to get the best one. I've seen official replacement lenses but these may not be as good and may go quicker especially for any backups? I'm trying to get the best info regarding backup cdrs and I've read some stuff here but I could leave that for now. I guess the best lens especially concerning these would be the best.

I do also own and use original cd games as well and prefer them.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Opethian

Opethian

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have you opened it up? is the laser drive assembly dry? The infamous 'gear' is really only a problem on the white CDROM2 devices. have you cleaned the laser? It may need to be adjusted.
 
K

ki_atsushi

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CD-R's will shorten the lifespan of any CD based system from that time period. (PCE CD, Duo, Sega CD, etc.)

They weren't designed to read those discs. So even if you get it fixed or get a replacement, stop using backups.
 
H

Hungkuen

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Hi yeah I've opened it up and tried making sure the lens unit was all the way to the right side which I heard was a possible fix for an issue like this. I could try cleaning it but I think the lens has gone. What's the best way to clean it if it's ok to ask?

I heard the gear problem was to do with the older white cdrom units, just not sure if it applied to the grey ones as well.

with this 'laser drive assembly dry' is that as in wet / dry? Although I've opened the unit, there doesn't seem to be a clear way to take the lens assembly out. I've looked but it doesn't seem very clear.

Anything would be greatly appreciated.
 
SNKNostalgia

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Use lithium grease from electronic/electric supply stores. Put it on the gears and on the slide the lens moves on.

If that doesn't work then, check the gear closely and see if the teeth are stripped or the plastic is brittle and/or cracked. If not, then replace the laser.

Here is everything you need to know on replacing/repairing the laser or drive:
http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=7193.0
 
Opethian

Opethian

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The laser drive is on a metal guide that should have greese on it. If it is 'dry' it can lock up or be gummy


scdlaser2.jpg
 
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H

Hungkuen

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Hi thanks a lot for all the info and effort. I think that's for the briefcase white Cd Rom. I'll check Pcenginefx, it's been a bit since I've been on there.
 
Opethian

Opethian

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yes the link that SNKnostalgic posted was for a CDROM2(white one)
my picture is from a Super CDROM2 (Grey one)
 
H

Hungkuen

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Hi ok sorry about that and thanks again.

I've opened it up and tried making sure the lens unit was all the way to the right side which I heard was a possible fix for an issue like this.

Although I've opened the unit, there doesn't seem to be a clear way to take the lens assembly out. I've looked but it doesn't seem very clear.

I got this link for a replacement lens;

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KSS-210A-Genu...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item51846ccedd

Anything would be greatly appreciated.
 
H

Hungkuen

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Hi again I've managed to remove the lens mechanism. Pain in the ass.

I also got a new lens. Is the lens mechanism the same as a laser unit?

Apparently they have a solder blob on them you have to remove first before installing,its to prevent the laser from getting static damage.

I'm not sure what this means, as an actual bit of solder? If that's right I checked the new laser I got and found nothing like that on it. I could look at my old one.

I've seen like a plastic block separating two pins on the new one but not on the old one. This could be it but I really don't know. I could attach a pic which I'll do asap.

Anything would be really appreciated.
 
SNKNostalgia

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Usually there is a thing of rubbery glue that holds the potentiometers position on the Duo Hop-M3 lens, maybe that is what the blob could be on the lens unit.

As long as the hook-ups are the same and the unit fits right, I don't see why it would be the wrong one.

After looking at both lenses online for the breifcase systems and the Super CD-Rom 2 systems, the lenses look different. In fact, the Super CD system looks like it uses a Hop-M3 lens like in the all the Duo systems. This would make sense considering they were manufactured around the same time.

Either way, I think you got the right lens as it specifically states Super CD-Rom 2 lens and even shows that system's picture on the box.
 
blueraven

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To my understanding, The SuperCdROM2 uses a KSS_210a laser,

does it look like this? This is the KSS-210a, the lens you said you bought.

kss-210a.jpg


The CDROM2 (Briefcase) uses a replacement part lens #KSS-220a, which is a replacement part # for KSS-162a. I have replaced one of these last week and the part is much different from the laser above.

Kss220a.jpg


Anyway keep us updated on how this goes.
 
H

Hungkuen

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Hi gents it's got to be said that you've well and truly surpassed yourselves here. Excellent stuff and I can't really thank you enough.

I replied to the nfg post, again excellent and thanks again.

It is the 210a or 210b I think, I had some confusion with this when I was buying. The one I took from my Super Cd Rom2 was a 210b. I was going to get this for an exact part replacement but I heard the 210a was ok as well so I got that as it seemed slightly cheaper and more common at the time I was looking. I think some of the other Duos use different lasers as well. I hope it's ok for now and the parts (210a + 210b) also look very similar although you shouldn't always rely on that. I'm not sure if there's any differences between the two apart from the part number.

'Either way, I think you got the right lens as it specifically states Super CD-Rom 2 lens and even shows that system's picture on the box.' - SNKNostalgia that's right but only if you buy the official replacement. I think the Super Cd rom grey unit can use either KSS-210a, KSS-210b. - I hope anyway.

The real prob I have at the moment is getting the right soldering iron.
 
H

Hungkuen

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Hi again I may have a big problem with this.

I got this from another forum;

'Due to the age of that CD-Player/CD-ROM drive, it might require calibration with an oscilloscope after the install. Drives that old are adjusted by a bunch of variable resistors on the main board.'

'NEVER mess with the laser pot on the optical pickup if it's a new part for replacement. The laser power pot aways come from factory adjusted properly.'

Not completely sure what all this means, I got the impression any adjusting would be via the power pot using an oscilloscope? I really don't know anything here.

In terms of the variable resistors with the drive calibration I don't even really understand the sentence. That you have to mess with the variable resistors and get the right value by using an oscilloscope?
 
Hewitson

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Yes, that's right.

As for the soldering station, you could have easily bought one from overseas and received it by now. I'd be surprised if you couldn't get one at a decent price in the UK though, I bought mine in Sydney! $130 AUD brand new.
 
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blueraven

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Hungkuen said:
Hi again I may have a big problem with this.

I got this from another forum;

'Due to the age of that CD-Player/CD-ROM drive, it might require calibration with an oscilloscope after the install. Drives that old are adjusted by a bunch of variable resistors on the main board.'

'NEVER mess with the laser pot on the optical pickup if it's a new part for replacement. The laser power pot aways come from factory adjusted properly.'

Not completely sure what all this means, I got the impression any adjusting would be via the power pot using an oscilloscope? I really don't know anything here.

In terms of the variable resistors with the drive calibration I don't even really understand the sentence. That you have to mess with the variable resistors and get the right value by using an oscilloscope?
Click to expand...

In my previous post; on the first of the two photos, the yellow "screw" looking thing is the trim pot that is used to adjust the focus of the laser. What he is saying is that the laser is pre-configured and that you should NOT adjust the pot prior to install. I've installed one on a SuperCDROM2 and it required no calibration on my part.

I use a regular Weller soldering iron, non-digital. Just make sure not to be heavy-handed so you don't burn a trace.

*An ocilloscope is the only thing that will give you an "exact" measurment/adjustment, although you can fake it with a multimeter.
 
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Hungkuen

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Hi yeah I wasn't going to mess with the trim pot. Thanks a lot for your time and info. It's much appreciated.

Do I need to use an ocilloscope / multimeter fake as part of the lens replacement so it works?

In terms of the soldering iron I meant the ocilloscope stuff but thanks for that. I was given this link;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wiltec-AOYU...ef=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=diy&qid=1290790399&sr=1-1

with this info;

Hakko chinese knockoff Aoyue, which are supposed to be decent and you can use Hakko tips apparently with them. If its something that will last you years....I dont know.

I still don't really know exactly what soldering iron setup to get. I heard one about 18w wouldn't be too hot or powerful for components like on PCBs here. I think temperature controlled stations adjust temperature and not wattage? Even more expensive ones than these may do so? I have gone to a few people for advice and they were saying not to mess with soldering on boards like this as most of it was done by robots in a factory and from the looks of it could be easy to mess up. However these people aren't exactly experts or even a few levels below that, people around the world seem to be doing it although I appreciate they maybe skilled and experienced. I don't even know if you need to use different temperatures and or wattage for certain components + certain parts of a PCB?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
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shadows

shadows

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Id say get an hakko since its cheaper than the weller and be done with it. If you take care of it, it should last you for decades.
I keep my weller at around 620-630 Fahrenheit (326-332 Celcius) for pretty much everything.
 
H

Hungkuen

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Hi thanks again guys for all your help, time and info. Excellent and extremely appreciated.
 
H

Hungkuen

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Hi again apparently no oscilloscope calibration is needed. I read these are drop in replacements and that someone has done a couple of these and never had to adjust any potentiometers and if it were to be done they would adjust the pot on the laser itself and never touch the ones on the board.

I may give it a go asap.

I also read that I don't really need a special soldering iron to take off the solder blob and that they've seen people cut it in half with a sharp knife or dremel. But any radio shack $5 iron should do. However I may wait until I get my iron and do it then.
 
Hewitson

Hewitson

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Oh yeah, a cheap shitty iron will be fine for something as simple as that. But as I've said before, for a professional job on any sort of serious mod, a decent temperature controlled station is an absolute must.

I've heard decent things about Aoyue, particularly their combo soldering/desoldering stations, however they are basically a cheap chinese knockoff of a Hakko and since the genuine Hakko is so cheap I would recommend avoiding the clones (theres plenty of them).
 
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