How I consolized my MVS.

Following on from this topic:

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205779

I thought I would start a new one to show more info on an MVS consolization. Certainly when I was searching for similar you can never have too many pics or examples of other's work so I hope this might be helpful to other 'amatuer MVS consolizers'. Not saying mine is the right way or most professional design but after studying and admiring lots of other pro and amatuer MVS's this is the way I went with it.

To copy most of my first post in the above topic: Like many others I think the 2 slot is easiest to work with and an ideal board as it has a memory card slot, 2 joystick ports, headphone and amplified speaker out jacks and a socketed bios.

For a power supply I am using a PC micro ATX re-wired inside for a simple and neat supply with the 12v and 5v and ground to the board via a 3 pin XLR. Then to a DPST switch. I have wired seperate fuses within the power supply.




Using a standard 8 pin DIN for the video out. Wire as follows to give beautiful RGB (the RGB from a MVS is the best RGB I have seen of any 'console'):

http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/sega/md-stereo-scart.htm

But take R audio to DIN 7 and left audio to DIN 1 - you now have stereo to your TV through Scart. I have also run phonos to the rear case from the amplified stereo so I can direct this straight to speakers.

From trawling the web these are some of the most helpful links:

http://www.engadget.com/2006/11/28/how-to-consolize-an-arcade-game/

http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/cmvs2slot.html

http://www.neo-geo.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_Consolize_an_MVS_Board

http://www.multimods.com/sgun.html

Firstly to cut the holes I think it would be virtually impossible without one of these step-drill bits - absolutely superb tool that cuts a neat hole and de-burrs the hole too:



Here, the holes for the 4 x Sanwa buttons (coin 1, coin 2, test and select) on top - these will match nicely with my green Sanwa button AES stick. If you have a Unibios then less buttons are necessary but I did not plan on fitting one. On the rear is power in via a XLR connector and STDP power switch. A tip is to always leave the tape with note of hole function and bore size to avoid mistakes:



Here, holes for phono out, AV (RGB, stereo) out and switch for pause:



Here is a pic of early work in progess on the board to give an idea of layout - hardest thing was finding a place to lead the wires neatly to the solder points under the board:



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Here is an overall view of the underside wired up:



Here the main solder points which may be helpful if tracing these yourself.

L - R:

select down
coin 1 and coin 2
test

above these are red, green and blue for Scart

first yellow wire is sync for AV

twisted yellow/black is +12v/ground for cold cathodes

then red = +5v
yellow = +12v
black = ground

the last two white wires are L and R amplified speaker out



In this pic is the (headphone slider controlled) stereo L and R to the AV Scart and you can also see the exit for the cables through the board for the pause (to dip 8) and the amplified stereo out:



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Here is one of the few places you can drill an extra couple of hole for leading cables through neatly (measure very carefully and check and check both sides again!):



Here the holes already in place for the memory card input are very useful:



Here one of the cold cathodes - a green one under the green buttons blending into a blue one on the other side...



The main case will be powder coated black and underneath what else but a good old piece of acrylic - great value this in the UK - cut to custom size in 10mm thickness with polished edges for around £6 ($10). They also supplied a length of acrylic 4mm bore tube for £1 which I have cut into 20mm length spacers as below:





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Finally put it all together last night - still have to get he casing powdercoated and the acrylic holes drilled so that can be assembled but that will have to wait for now...

Here is the wiring for the power in/switch and momentary buttons:



Here the other side showing the AV out, stereo out and pause:



The same but from the rear of the case:





And an overall of the main case - desperately needs the powdercoat:



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Hey, sweet stuff. Where did you get that DIN-8 panel mount jack for the AV cable?

Also, is it the exact same plug as an AES? I have an AES SCART cable and I want to put an AES style AV jack on my CMVS.

Is there a specific reason why you chose to use amplified audio instead of ~line level from the headphone jack?

Uhh.. Why switch the DC rather than the AC?

You cant run a switcher without a load so the switch is useless.

Finch said:

Hey, sweet stuff. Where did you get that DIN-8 panel mount jack for the AV cable?

Also, is it the exact same plug as an AES? I have an AES SCART cable and I want to put an AES style AV jack on my CMVS.

Click to expand...

Just a standard 8 pin DIN socket and jack - as you say, same as the AES. The MVS is wired differently though as it includes the stereo etc.

The audio out of the DIN is via the headphone circuit for direct input into the Scart. in addition I chose to output the amplified stereo as an option out the back phonos so I can run a standalone pair of speakers directly without having to go into a amp first. used phonos as speaker terminals are big ugly things and the phonos give more options.

AC is obviuosly switched at the wall (in the UK all power socket outlets are switched - not sure this is the same in the US/Asia/Euroland?) but it is handy to have a seperate switch on the MVS too.

Nice job so far. I am interested to see it when its all done. How are you going to hook up the controllers?

Probably using the onboard controller sockets.

Yes as Xian Xi says - you just plug the sticks right in.

max-ng: Yes, of course our power outlets are switched, but I just don't see the point of including a switch on your machine that, if flicked, will kill your power supply. How useless!

Other than that however, not a shabby job.

max-ng said:

Yes as Xian Xi says - you just plug the sticks right in.

Click to expand...

Ah... ok, I didnt realize there were controller ports right on the board, I thought they were wired into the side connector.

The multislot boards all have joystick connectors on them. This is one of the things which makes me wonder why people so often use a single slotter without a joystick port for CMVS's.

The main thing, of course, is why in the fucking WORLD you would want to limit yourself to Neo Geo.

Hewitson said:

The multislot boards all have joystick connectors on them. This is one of the things which makes me wonder why people so often use a single slotter without a joystick port for CMVS's.

The main thing, of course, is why in the fucking WORLD you would want to limit yourself to Neo Geo.

Click to expand...

If you are pulling RGB, the cost is so low that it really doesn't matter.