CMVS Help - Nearing the finish line - Neo-Geo Forums

Phyeir · 10-25-2009, 07:58 PM

Ok guys, I'm ALMOST done. Decided to actually take a few hours today (even with my back tweaking something terrible) and get my CMVS to the power on point. And success! It turns on, no electronic burning smells or anything. Now, there's a few annoying things left over...

1) Sound is WAY LOW - Xian Xi said to grab from the headphone jacks, but I have to turn the TV up to nearly 100 on my TV just to get a decent sound and at that level (yes, slider is all the way up), I seem to be getting interference from radio signals (when I leave everything plugged into the arcade board without being on, could actually hear a radio talk show at that level). So, obviously, I need to move my sound, but I don't know where. I'm on a 4 slot board, so I have no guides to assist where to grab and grabbing continuity doesn't seem to go well.

2) Video is a little wonky - The video outputs and all, but I have some purple saturation to the right happening and just a general lack of sharpness on the picture. Took a picture to detail this. I'm on a Neobitz encoder, so I thought I was good on video, but maybe I just need to use some resistors on the lines to take this issue out? The general fuzziness really bothers me, it's like watching old antenna TV.

3) P1 port is on right, P2 is on left - I didn't rewire the controller slots, so I think this may be normal, it's just new to me is all, so just let me know I'm not crazy on this one.

Once I get this done, I'll take pics of this thing, it is a beautiful beast.

xiao_haozi · 10-25-2009, 08:03 PM

1) try grabbing on the other side of the slider attenuation. Then you shouldn't have such low volume sound. They should just be the tap points on the opposite side of where you grabbed now. If you are unsure I (or someone) can probably dig out a picture.

2) Did you try any other TVs by chance? Just curious, but I doubt it is a TV dependent issue as it's a color balance.

Phyeir · 10-25-2009, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xiao_haozi

1) try grabbing on the other side of the slider attenuation. Then you shouldn't have such low volume sound. They should just be the tap points on the opposite side of where you grabbed now. If you are unsure I (or someone) can probably dig out a picture.

2) Did you try any other TVs by chance? Just curious, but I doubt it is a TV dependent issue as it's a color balance.

1) Do you mean grab by the slider or just go one step earlier in the line on the sound? Pic I tried using guide pics from 2 slot, but placements of things are different from what I saw.

2) Have no other TV to test the components on. I could to composite, but that's all I have on other TVs. If it's color balance, what does that mean I need to do?

Xian Xi · 10-25-2009, 08:09 PM

Where exactly did you tap the sound?

Also in the picture looks like the picture is too bright. What value resistors did you use on the Neobitz? Usually the stock 124ohm works good for both LCD and CRT.

But all in all the picture looks like it needs a better ground. You aren't linking audio and video grounds on the output are you? Sometimes it causes interference in the picture.

Xian Xi · 10-25-2009, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phyeir

1) Do you mean grab by the slider or just go one step earlier in the line on the sound? Pic I tried using guide pics from 2 slot, but placements of things are different from what I saw.

2) Have no other TV to test the components on. I could to composite, but that's all I have on other TVs. If it's color balance, what does that mean I need to do?

Grab the audio from the headphone jack, not the slider.

xiao_haozi · 10-25-2009, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xian Xi

Grab the audio from the headphone jack, not the slider.

That's post slider attenuation on the 4 slot too right?

Pre gives you the really low volume iirc. And doing post attenuation gave a nice level (when adjusted with the slider a bit).

Phyeir · 10-25-2009, 08:21 PM

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/1303/cimg8066.jpg

This is where sound was.

I'm using the actual video ground (pre-resistor) placement on the board. If you can point where I SHOULD grab, I'll do it up.

Phyeir · 10-25-2009, 09:44 PM

Well, the sound issue is all cleared up (ran it right off the edge connector).

I also connected the video ground right to the edge connector (the +5V for video is also connected there), but the color is also still the same. I don't mind running off the edge connector, so if I cn pull EVERYTHING off the edge connector, would that help things?

Xian Xi · 10-25-2009, 11:51 PM

I pull everything off the edge connector when the board is enclosed.

Phyeir · 10-26-2009, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xian Xi

I pull everything off the edge connector when the board is enclosed.

I'll have to line that all up in the morning. If it's still an issue, I'll be back tomorrow night

Well, like I wouldn't be here anyways...

Xian Xi · 10-26-2009, 07:12 AM

Where did you tap the RGBS signals from? Pics.

JMKurtz · 10-26-2009, 07:36 AM

Post pics of the RGB taps and connector wiring. Interfeerence in component and svideo are normally signs of grounding issues.

Try using the common ground rather than the video ground.

I generally tap +5 & ground from a logic IC somewhere close to the Neobitz board is mounted to keep the wires short.

Jeff

Phyeir · 10-26-2009, 09:20 PM

Before, I was grabbing everything off from the actual pots pre-pot, so I had extending wires. NOW though, I'm straight off the board. But everything looks exactly the same. I reconnected the actual power cord ground (added an extra ground wire to given the whole board better grounding) and moved the video ground onto the video ground on the slot connect AND to the dedicated ground. In both cases, same exact look to the screen.

Image of board and wires clear of setting

Image of board in place (Padding still in place)

Xian Xi · 10-26-2009, 09:23 PM

What's with all the glue? Are these connections soldered or just glued?

Phyeir · 10-26-2009, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xian Xi

What's with all the glue? Are these connections soldered or just glued?

Of course soldered... the glue is to insulate and just added insurance. I did a light tug test to make sure connection were good.

Xian Xi · 10-27-2009, 07:29 AM

Is that a solder blob on your AD chip around pin 12-14?

Phyeir · 10-27-2009, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xian Xi

Is that a solder blob on your AD chip around pin 12-14?

If you mean on the encoder, no... stray wood piece, don't know how it got there, moved it off and everything is the same -_-

If that's not what you mean, would you happen to be able to point me to what you mean?

Xian Xi · 10-27-2009, 08:17 PM

It's wood. I'm at home now and can see that it is wood.

I've never worked with a 4 slot before but I can say that once in a while I get a 1 or 2 slot that needs the additional LM1881 sync cleaner to work right.

Phyeir · 10-27-2009, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xian Xi

It's wood. I'm at home now and can see that it is wood.

I've never worked with a 4 slot before but I can say that once in a while I get a 1 or 2 slot that needs the additional LM1881 sync cleaner to work right.

Where would one procure such an item?

Xian Xi · 10-27-2009, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phyeir

Where would one procure such an item?

You can order them from Jameco:

https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/st...oductId=107140

You will need:

1 - LM1881
1 - 680k resistor
2 - .1uf Cap

Cut the jumper currently in the switch spot:

Code:

O  O  O
O--O  O

And change it to:

Code:

O  O--O
O  O--O

Xian Xi · 10-27-2009, 08:49 PM

Also the notch on the LM1881 will face the switch (top of the board).

http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax.../neobitzv2.jpg

Phyeir · 10-27-2009, 09:15 PM

Thanks man but BIG question.... does my board not having a switch possibly have anything to do with this issue?

Xian Xi · 10-27-2009, 09:49 PM

You mean no power switch? You should put one on if you don't have one.

Phyeir · 10-27-2009, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xian Xi

You mean no power switch? You should put one on if you don't have one.

No, on the encoder board... where the switch is, looks like it just turns on & off the sync cleaning, but wasn't sure. Mine is blank in that whole area (but part of it is from need for that chip & other parts)

Xian Xi · 10-27-2009, 09:55 PM

Right now the jumper just joins the sync from the header connector to the sync output from the sync cleaner.

10-25-2009, 07:58 PM	#1
Phyeir We killed you! Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada, of course, I'm HeartlessNinny! Posts: 1,835	CMVS Help - Nearing the finish line Ok guys, I'm ALMOST done. Decided to actually take a few hours today (even with my back tweaking something terrible) and get my CMVS to the power on point. And success! It turns on, no electronic burning smells or anything. Now, there's a few annoying things left over... 1) Sound is WAY LOW - Xian Xi said to grab from the headphone jacks, but I have to turn the TV up to nearly 100 on my TV just to get a decent sound and at that level (yes, slider is all the way up), I seem to be getting interference from radio signals (when I leave everything plugged into the arcade board without being on, could actually hear a radio talk show at that level). So, obviously, I need to move my sound, but I don't know where. I'm on a 4 slot board, so I have no guides to assist where to grab and grabbing continuity doesn't seem to go well. 2) Video is a little wonky - The video outputs and all, but I have some purple saturation to the right happening and just a general lack of sharpness on the picture. Took a picture to detail this. I'm on a Neobitz encoder, so I thought I was good on video, but maybe I just need to use some resistors on the lines to take this issue out? The general fuzziness really bothers me, it's like watching old antenna TV. 3) P1 port is on right, P2 is on left - I didn't rewire the controller slots, so I think this may be normal, it's just new to me is all, so just let me know I'm not crazy on this one. Once I get this done, I'll take pics of this thing, it is a beautiful beast. Last edited by Phyeir; 10-25-2009 at 08:02 PM..

10-25-2009, 08:03 PM	#2
xiao_haozi Kasumi Todoh's Training Partner Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Philadelphia Posts: 1,860	1) try grabbing on the other side of the slider attenuation. Then you shouldn't have such low volume sound. They should just be the tap points on the opposite side of where you grabbed now. If you are unsure I (or someone) can probably dig out a picture. 2) Did you try any other TVs by chance? Just curious, but I doubt it is a TV dependent issue as it's a color balance. __________________ Mutaku \| NerdcoreProductions \| Jamma-Nation-X Own/Want/Sale list Trader Rating Profile

10-25-2009, 08:09 PM	#4
Xian Xi Xian Xi for short. Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Hawaii Mofo!!! Posts: 13,092	Where exactly did you tap the sound? Also in the picture looks like the picture is too bright. What value resistors did you use on the Neobitz? Usually the stock 124ohm works good for both LCD and CRT. But all in all the picture looks like it needs a better ground. You aren't linking audio and video grounds on the output are you? Sometimes it causes interference in the picture. __________________ **2 Slot CMVS For Sale** Neo Geo S-video Kits, Neo Geo Clocks for Sale, CMVS DIY Guides and more

10-26-2009, 07:36 AM	#12
JMKurtz Tech Support Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Delaware, OH, USA Posts: 1,315	Post pics of the RGB taps and connector wiring. Interfeerence in component and svideo are normally signs of grounding issues. Try using the common ground rather than the video ground. I generally tap +5 & ground from a logic IC somewhere close to the Neobitz board is mounted to keep the wires short. Jeff __________________ Are you ready to change the way you look at your Neo? jkurtz01@gmail.com - http://www.neobitz.com

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

10-25-2009, 08:21 PM	#7
Phyeir We killed you! Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada, of course, I'm HeartlessNinny! Posts: 1,835	http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/1303/cimg8066.jpg This is where sound was. I'm using the actual video ground (pre-resistor) placement on the board. If you can point where I SHOULD grab, I'll do it up.

10-25-2009, 09:44 PM	#8
Phyeir We killed you! Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada, of course, I'm HeartlessNinny! Posts: 1,835	Well, the sound issue is all cleared up (ran it right off the edge connector). I also connected the video ground right to the edge connector (the +5V for video is also connected there), but the color is also still the same. I don't mind running off the edge connector, so if I cn pull EVERYTHING off the edge connector, would that help things?

10-25-2009, 11:51 PM	#9
Xian Xi Xian Xi for short. Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Hawaii Mofo!!! Posts: 13,092	I pull everything off the edge connector when the board is enclosed.

10-26-2009, 07:12 AM	#11
Xian Xi Xian Xi for short. Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Hawaii Mofo!!! Posts: 13,092	Where did you tap the RGBS signals from? Pics.

10-26-2009, 09:20 PM	#13
Phyeir We killed you! Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada, of course, I'm HeartlessNinny! Posts: 1,835	Before, I was grabbing everything off from the actual pots pre-pot, so I had extending wires. NOW though, I'm straight off the board. But everything looks exactly the same. I reconnected the actual power cord ground (added an extra ground wire to given the whole board better grounding) and moved the video ground onto the video ground on the slot connect AND to the dedicated ground. In both cases, same exact look to the screen. Image of board and wires clear of setting Image of board in place (Padding still in place)

10-26-2009, 09:23 PM	#14
Xian Xi Xian Xi for short. Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Hawaii Mofo!!! Posts: 13,092	What's with all the glue? Are these connections soldered or just glued?

10-27-2009, 07:29 AM	#16
Xian Xi Xian Xi for short. Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Hawaii Mofo!!! Posts: 13,092	Is that a solder blob on your AD chip around pin 12-14?

10-27-2009, 08:17 PM	#18
Xian Xi Xian Xi for short. Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Hawaii Mofo!!! Posts: 13,092	It's wood. I'm at home now and can see that it is wood. I've never worked with a 4 slot before but I can say that once in a while I get a 1 or 2 slot that needs the additional LM1881 sync cleaner to work right.

10-27-2009, 08:49 PM	#21
Xian Xi Xian Xi for short. Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Hawaii Mofo!!! Posts: 13,092	Also the notch on the LM1881 will face the switch (top of the board). http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax.../neobitzv2.jpg

10-27-2009, 09:15 PM	#22
Phyeir We killed you! Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Canada, of course, I'm HeartlessNinny! Posts: 1,835	Thanks man but BIG question.... does my board not having a switch possibly have anything to do with this issue?

10-27-2009, 09:49 PM	#23
Xian Xi Xian Xi for short. Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Hawaii Mofo!!! Posts: 13,092	You mean no power switch? You should put one on if you don't have one.

10-27-2009, 09:55 PM	#25
Xian Xi Xian Xi for short. Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Hawaii Mofo!!! Posts: 13,092	Right now the jumper just joins the sync from the header connector to the sync output from the sync cleaner.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)