Completed my first CMVS, pictures

gleason

Kuroko's Training Dummy
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Sep 7, 2007
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I wanted to build a CMVS that is basically dedicated to Puzzle Bobble, everytime it's Neo Geo time around home there's gonna have to be a few games of it played to start things off anyway. In a few seconds the game can be changed out if needed but usually we will just move over to the 2 slot.

I chose the MV-1F because I wanted the stereo and onboard joystick ports. I also wanted the horizontal cartridge slot in order to hide it from view and make an enclosure build easier. The board is positioned vertically, cartridge label up, as the enclosure stands upright.

The enclosure is a replacement case for a power tool, bought this at Lowe's, shaved the handles off, they wouldn't hardly hold the weight of just the case they were so flimsy.

I used a JROK encoder and jacks. Used extension cords to run the joystick inputs to the outside of the case, gives me about an extra 3 feet of cord length and saves 20 wires inside. I also wired up a test switch. I wired everything up via Jamma Harness and tapped the Audio off the headphone connecter with a 4 pin. Board can be swapped out in about 5 mins this way. Going to add a UniBios next week.

If I were to build another one I would do some things differently like planning out the video jacks a little better, got a little cramped, but at least no wires are dangling over the power switch. Total cost including game < 250.00

Helpful links used in addition to forums:
http://www.hardmvs.com/
http://www.jrok.com/
http://xianxi.clearwire.net/
http://www.engadget.com/2006/11/28/how-to-consolize-an-arcade-game/

boardedt1.jpg

openeah7.jpg

endefp7.jpg


This is how it stands, had a spot just big enough for it to fit that way, also in the pic are two sticks I modded, a MAS with orange A+B button added and custom layout, and an EX2 with Sanwa and Seimitsu Mod (base extension).
sideezd1.jpg
 
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JMKurtz

Tech Support Moderator,
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Nice concept... Just don't take it to an airport ;)

Jeff
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
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JMKurtz said:
Nice concept... Just don't take it to an airport ;)

Jeff

Haha. Actually it would be cool if you take it to the airport and they stop you because they think its a bomb.

It would be all over the news,

"A man was arrested to today when trying to bring a smart bomb into the airport, officials say it was not a smart bomb but simply his portable Neo Geo system"
 

gleason

Kuroko's Training Dummy
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Sep 7, 2007
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Thanks, it really was a satisfying experience building it.
 

Electric Grave

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For Games.
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Good work, I'm curious about the sticks if you would; 2 things what exactly do you mean by case extension on the EX2 and why the A+B orange button on the mass stick?, I think they both look neat, but you just tickled my brain that's all.

I have the same case too, but I use it to store some SNES games.
 

cannonball

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Aug 8, 2006
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Nice job man. I love the case. I'm planning on building a CMVS here pretty soon too...this has just motivated me even more.
 

gleason

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Sep 7, 2007
Posts
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electricgrave said:
Good work, I'm curious about the sticks if you would; 2 things what exactly do you mean by case extension on the EX2 and why the A+B orange button on the mass stick?, I think they both look neat, but you just tickled my brain that's all.

I have the same case too, but I use it to store some SNES games.

Sorry just now noticing there were some more replies to the thread, on the EX2 it takes some tricks to get a Sanwa in there, the easiest thing to do is just drill a hole, add some rubber feet on the bottom and let the stick play thru the hole. I had an extra metal plate though from another EX2 so I drilled my Sanwa hole, added some spacers between the original bottom plate and the extra plate I had and tightened it down. I then shaved off the 360 headset port to make it smooth all the way around. I filled the airspace between the two ports with epoxy and sanded down. before the epoxy I used duct tape all away around the inside and outside perimeter of the plastic hull so the epoxy wouldn't stick to it, and I basically ended up with a nice super thick bottom plate that can be unscrewed.

On the Mas I changed the button layout to accomodate me sitting down most of the time at a table when I play. The original layout was uncomfortable to me. I filled all of the old holes and sanded down, then with my left hand on the joystick I placed 5 quarters on top of the button area and just moved them around under my fingers until it felt perfect, then while holding them down took a sharpie and traced around the quarters and drilled them out, going with Happ competition buttons instead of the regular style. Best feeling layout I ever had. The A+B button is for playing my favorite game SS IV, to switch from one side to the other of your opponent, Noobville I know :lolz: . The cool thing about using Happ's/ Cherry Switches is that you can wire one of these buttons in very easily without diodes which is what I have used on my sanwa sticks.
 
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