gleason
Kuroko's Training Dummy

- Joined
- Sep 7, 2007
- Posts
- 77
I wanted to build a CMVS that is basically dedicated to Puzzle Bobble, everytime it's Neo Geo time around home there's gonna have to be a few games of it played to start things off anyway. In a few seconds the game can be changed out if needed but usually we will just move over to the 2 slot.
I chose the MV-1F because I wanted the stereo and onboard joystick ports. I also wanted the horizontal cartridge slot in order to hide it from view and make an enclosure build easier. The board is positioned vertically, cartridge label up, as the enclosure stands upright.
The enclosure is a replacement case for a power tool, bought this at Lowe's, shaved the handles off, they wouldn't hardly hold the weight of just the case they were so flimsy.
I used a JROK encoder and jacks. Used extension cords to run the joystick inputs to the outside of the case, gives me about an extra 3 feet of cord length and saves 20 wires inside. I also wired up a test switch. I wired everything up via Jamma Harness and tapped the Audio off the headphone connecter with a 4 pin. Board can be swapped out in about 5 mins this way. Going to add a UniBios next week.
If I were to build another one I would do some things differently like planning out the video jacks a little better, got a little cramped, but at least no wires are dangling over the power switch. Total cost including game < 250.00
Helpful links used in addition to forums:
http://www.hardmvs.com/
http://www.jrok.com/
http://xianxi.clearwire.net/
http://www.engadget.com/2006/11/28/how-to-consolize-an-arcade-game/
This is how it stands, had a spot just big enough for it to fit that way, also in the pic are two sticks I modded, a MAS with orange A+B button added and custom layout, and an EX2 with Sanwa and Seimitsu Mod (base extension).
I chose the MV-1F because I wanted the stereo and onboard joystick ports. I also wanted the horizontal cartridge slot in order to hide it from view and make an enclosure build easier. The board is positioned vertically, cartridge label up, as the enclosure stands upright.
The enclosure is a replacement case for a power tool, bought this at Lowe's, shaved the handles off, they wouldn't hardly hold the weight of just the case they were so flimsy.
I used a JROK encoder and jacks. Used extension cords to run the joystick inputs to the outside of the case, gives me about an extra 3 feet of cord length and saves 20 wires inside. I also wired up a test switch. I wired everything up via Jamma Harness and tapped the Audio off the headphone connecter with a 4 pin. Board can be swapped out in about 5 mins this way. Going to add a UniBios next week.
If I were to build another one I would do some things differently like planning out the video jacks a little better, got a little cramped, but at least no wires are dangling over the power switch. Total cost including game < 250.00
Helpful links used in addition to forums:
http://www.hardmvs.com/
http://www.jrok.com/
http://xianxi.clearwire.net/
http://www.engadget.com/2006/11/28/how-to-consolize-an-arcade-game/
This is how it stands, had a spot just big enough for it to fit that way, also in the pic are two sticks I modded, a MAS with orange A+B button added and custom layout, and an EX2 with Sanwa and Seimitsu Mod (base extension).
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