meanbean
Armored Scrum Object
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2005
- Posts
- 258
The modifications to my US Naomi Universal cabinet are now completed. I have included before and after pics below.
The cabinet has been modified with a custom 2P 6B control panel (CP) using a 2P 2B CP. All of the 30mm button holes were first covered with fiberglass. After a lot of sanding, I drilled 12-30mm holes for the player buttons and 2-24mm holes for the start buttons. Bondo was applied to any cracks that resulted from the drilling and it was once again sanded to a smooth finish.
Before
After
Since this 2P 2B CP used was designed for an American style joystick (eg. HAPP), I had to fabricate some mounting plates (MP) so that I could use the Japan Sanwa joysticks (JLF-TP-8Y). This MP was made from an old piece of sheet metal I had laying around. I simply took some measurements from all of the existing 4 screw post on the CP and proceeded to cut out a slightly larger size piece from my sheet metal. I then drilled out the 4 holes for the screw posts on the CP to fit through the MP. Next, I drilled out the hole for the joystick shaft. I made this hole slightly larger than the joystick hole on the CP. After centering the MP on top of the Sanwa joystick, I marked off the joystick's mounting points and then drilled out the 2 holes in the MP. All of the edges on the MP were then grinded down to a smooth finish. Finally, I flattened the MP with a hammer so that it would be able to fit flush against the CP. The Sanwa Joystick is now connected to the MP using 2 screws and 2 nuts. The MP is then connected to the CP via the 4 CP screw posts and 4 nuts.
Before
After
The stock rectangular restrictor plates on the Sanwa joysticks have been replaced with octagonal restrictor plates. The start buttons chosen were white Sanwa start buttons (OBSF-24). However, I decided to go with white HAPP Competition pushbuttons (58-9611-L) w/ Cherry switches instead of the Sanwa pushbutton for the player buttons. This was done because I wanted a little more spring/resistance than a Sanwa button while still keeping the overall look of one. Matching white Sanwa joystick ball tops (LB-30) were also installed. Instead of a fancy graphic overlay, I decided to go with a simple royal blue overlay that matches the color of the CP Wooden enclosure. I feel this enhances the all white joystick/button theme and the overall look of the cabinet.
Before
After
The additional 8 player buttons have now been wired to connect to the JVS harness via the existing Molex connectors and an additional AMP connector. These wire were identified using a toner and with reference to the JVS pinout. The Molex connectors used were 9-pin at .093 and the AMP connector used was 6-pin at .084. The 5-pin Sanwa joystick harnesses have also been connected to the existing wiring via quick connects.
Before
After
A Jamma harness has been spliced into the existing JVS harness to allow both formats to be used in this cabinet. With reference to the JVS pinout, a wire was identified on the JVS side. This wire was then stripped using a combination of a razor blade and a wire stripper. This was done to eliminate any chance of accidentally cutting through the wire using just my $30 wire stripper. Basically, a light cut was made around the wire with a razor blade. Next, I proceeded to use the wire stripper to complete the cut started by the razor blade. Once the wire was exposed, flux was added and the wire pretinned. The corresponding wire on the Jamma side was also stripped and pretinned. Once completed, I then soldered the 2 corresponding wires together and then wrapped them with electrical tape. This process was repeated for almost all of the wires coming off of the Jamma harness. This modification was very time consuming but was not difficult by any means. This Jamma harness upgrade was done so that I can play my Atomiswave games as well as Naomi games in this cabinet.
Before
After
All of the new and existing wiring have been tied off. Some of the components had to be relocated in order to accommodate the Atomiswave. If you look closely, you will notice that the Atomiswave has been modified with stereo RCA jacks.
Before
After
From all of these modifications, I can now easily swap between the Naomi and the Atomiswave. This is done by reconnecting the power cables to the Naomi, disconnecting the Jamma harness from the Atomiswave and then swapping the VGA and Stereo RCA cables over to the Naomi. I may later incorporate some type of auto splitter/switcher system to do this but I don't see frequent swaps being done to need such a system. I am quite pleased with how well my Naomi/Atomiswave Universal cabinet came out. I am finally looking forward to being able to get KoF XI once prices drop below $400. As always, questions and comments are welcomed.
Before
After
After
The cabinet has been modified with a custom 2P 6B control panel (CP) using a 2P 2B CP. All of the 30mm button holes were first covered with fiberglass. After a lot of sanding, I drilled 12-30mm holes for the player buttons and 2-24mm holes for the start buttons. Bondo was applied to any cracks that resulted from the drilling and it was once again sanded to a smooth finish.
Before
After
Since this 2P 2B CP used was designed for an American style joystick (eg. HAPP), I had to fabricate some mounting plates (MP) so that I could use the Japan Sanwa joysticks (JLF-TP-8Y). This MP was made from an old piece of sheet metal I had laying around. I simply took some measurements from all of the existing 4 screw post on the CP and proceeded to cut out a slightly larger size piece from my sheet metal. I then drilled out the 4 holes for the screw posts on the CP to fit through the MP. Next, I drilled out the hole for the joystick shaft. I made this hole slightly larger than the joystick hole on the CP. After centering the MP on top of the Sanwa joystick, I marked off the joystick's mounting points and then drilled out the 2 holes in the MP. All of the edges on the MP were then grinded down to a smooth finish. Finally, I flattened the MP with a hammer so that it would be able to fit flush against the CP. The Sanwa Joystick is now connected to the MP using 2 screws and 2 nuts. The MP is then connected to the CP via the 4 CP screw posts and 4 nuts.
Before
After
The stock rectangular restrictor plates on the Sanwa joysticks have been replaced with octagonal restrictor plates. The start buttons chosen were white Sanwa start buttons (OBSF-24). However, I decided to go with white HAPP Competition pushbuttons (58-9611-L) w/ Cherry switches instead of the Sanwa pushbutton for the player buttons. This was done because I wanted a little more spring/resistance than a Sanwa button while still keeping the overall look of one. Matching white Sanwa joystick ball tops (LB-30) were also installed. Instead of a fancy graphic overlay, I decided to go with a simple royal blue overlay that matches the color of the CP Wooden enclosure. I feel this enhances the all white joystick/button theme and the overall look of the cabinet.
Before
After
The additional 8 player buttons have now been wired to connect to the JVS harness via the existing Molex connectors and an additional AMP connector. These wire were identified using a toner and with reference to the JVS pinout. The Molex connectors used were 9-pin at .093 and the AMP connector used was 6-pin at .084. The 5-pin Sanwa joystick harnesses have also been connected to the existing wiring via quick connects.
Before
After
A Jamma harness has been spliced into the existing JVS harness to allow both formats to be used in this cabinet. With reference to the JVS pinout, a wire was identified on the JVS side. This wire was then stripped using a combination of a razor blade and a wire stripper. This was done to eliminate any chance of accidentally cutting through the wire using just my $30 wire stripper. Basically, a light cut was made around the wire with a razor blade. Next, I proceeded to use the wire stripper to complete the cut started by the razor blade. Once the wire was exposed, flux was added and the wire pretinned. The corresponding wire on the Jamma side was also stripped and pretinned. Once completed, I then soldered the 2 corresponding wires together and then wrapped them with electrical tape. This process was repeated for almost all of the wires coming off of the Jamma harness. This modification was very time consuming but was not difficult by any means. This Jamma harness upgrade was done so that I can play my Atomiswave games as well as Naomi games in this cabinet.
Before
After
All of the new and existing wiring have been tied off. Some of the components had to be relocated in order to accommodate the Atomiswave. If you look closely, you will notice that the Atomiswave has been modified with stereo RCA jacks.
Before
After
From all of these modifications, I can now easily swap between the Naomi and the Atomiswave. This is done by reconnecting the power cables to the Naomi, disconnecting the Jamma harness from the Atomiswave and then swapping the VGA and Stereo RCA cables over to the Naomi. I may later incorporate some type of auto splitter/switcher system to do this but I don't see frequent swaps being done to need such a system. I am quite pleased with how well my Naomi/Atomiswave Universal cabinet came out. I am finally looking forward to being able to get KoF XI once prices drop below $400. As always, questions and comments are welcomed.
Before
After
After
Last edited:
That my friend, is verrrrrrry nice indeed. Thumbs up on such a great job.
...but don't you think that the big control panel...have a lot of wasted space 
...my i suggest some nice/custom make CPO art :chimp: :chimp: 
The large CP enclosure is just how this style of US Naomi Universal cab was designed. While it doesn't bother me, I would have preferred the sleek JPN CP enclosure style instead. As for the custom CPO, I decided to pass on it as I feel this simple one gives the cab a more refined look. 
