MVS settings not saving
- Thread starter galfordo
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ttooddddyy
PNG FTW,
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Probably is the battery.
It has two solder connections to the pcb, its real easy to replace, you can check it first , should be 3.6 volts. If it shows any sign of leakage replace it anyway.
Sometimes they are stuck down to the board, you should be able to gently prizeit off, check for battery leakage and corossion on the board, would be a good idea to clean this area once the original battery has been removed.
It has two solder connections to the pcb, its real easy to replace, you can check it first , should be 3.6 volts. If it shows any sign of leakage replace it anyway.
Sometimes they are stuck down to the board, you should be able to gently prizeit off, check for battery leakage and corossion on the board, would be a good idea to clean this area once the original battery has been removed.
ttooddddyy
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They are not that easy to come across in the US ? which seems wierd, there have been several threads where members have had difficulty sourcing these. I can get hold of the Ni-MH version here (which are better than the Ni-Cds, so if you get stuck let me know.
Radio Slack have this:
http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&category_name=CTLG_009_014_007_000&Page=3
you would need to solder leads on the battery, be carefull not to use excessive heat, it may damage the battery and/ or cause leakage.
Radio Slack have this:
http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&category_name=CTLG_009_014_007_000&Page=3
you would need to solder leads on the battery, be carefull not to use excessive heat, it may damage the battery and/ or cause leakage.
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ttooddddyy said:They are not that easy to come across in the US ? which seems wierd, there have been several threads where members have had difficulty sourcing these. I can get hold of the Ni-MH version here (which are better than the Ni-Cds, so if you get stuck let me know.
Radio Slack have this:
http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&category_name=CTLG_009_014_007_000&Page=3
you would need to solder leads on the battery, be carefull not to use excessive heat, it may damage the battery and/ or cause leakage.
Thanks a bunch, buddy. I'm gonna give that a try this weekend. I'll do that, finish getting the locks right, and get a coat of paint near the joysticks, and maybe soon I'll be able to actually enjoy playing it for a little while!
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I've had problems locating the coin type because on 4-slots (and 6-slots) the battery has to be somewhat flat or you can't put the top board back on. I have found 3.6v rechargeable lithium batteries (coin-type) so I'll go with those...
ttooddddyy
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Good point MKL
If its an issue with the dual boards (my six slots are running without batteries at the moment, have not tried that type of Ni-Cd on multi-slot boards, I think the clearance is about 18mm) they will obviously do on a single slot.
Lith-Ion are good high efficiency rechargable batteries, but viewers beware, there is a big difference between Lith-Ions and standard lithiums, its not a good idea to try to charge those.
If spacing is an issue and your unable to get hold of the correct type, you can wire remotely, maybe stick on the top board with some double sided tape, the tape will act as insulation- for that matter, if in a spot why not wire 3x AAA Nicads in series = 3.6 volts.
If its an issue with the dual boards (my six slots are running without batteries at the moment, have not tried that type of Ni-Cd on multi-slot boards, I think the clearance is about 18mm) they will obviously do on a single slot.
Lith-Ion are good high efficiency rechargable batteries, but viewers beware, there is a big difference between Lith-Ions and standard lithiums, its not a good idea to try to charge those.
If spacing is an issue and your unable to get hold of the correct type, you can wire remotely, maybe stick on the top board with some double sided tape, the tape will act as insulation- for that matter, if in a spot why not wire 3x AAA Nicads in series = 3.6 volts.
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Thanks for all the advice guys. I was wondering about one thing though -
Does the amperage of the battery matter in this case? Or does it just have to be reasonable?
Since neither of you guys mentioned it, I'm guessing it doesn't - but I'm not really sure. I'd like to be able to find a battery that would fit between the boards, since I've got a 6-slot, but if it comes down to it I'll probably just go with the remote wiring job.
Does the amperage of the battery matter in this case? Or does it just have to be reasonable?
Since neither of you guys mentioned it, I'm guessing it doesn't - but I'm not really sure. I'd like to be able to find a battery that would fit between the boards, since I've got a 6-slot, but if it comes down to it I'll probably just go with the remote wiring job.
ttooddddyy
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Its not critical Galf (the suggested alternatives Ni-MH and Li-Ion have a much larger charge rate than the original Ni-Cd)
The originals are 50 mAH, I would guesstimate anything between 50 to 300 mAH would do the job, above that, in this aplication, may be a strain on the charge circuit.
Slow charge isnt a bad thing
The originals are 50 mAH, I would guesstimate anything between 50 to 300 mAH would do the job, above that, in this aplication, may be a strain on the charge circuit.
Slow charge isnt a bad thing
ttooddddyy
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ttooddddyy said:
The axial type is actually 17mm in diam, so it should just about make it inbetween the boards. (remember the soldered pins on the underside of the top board)
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I couldn't really find a place that sells the GS Saft batteries, so I went ahead and bought the radio shack one that you recommended.
It still hasn't come in yet, but I'll let you guys know how it turns out when (and if
) it finally makes it here. I'm hoping that the battery will fit between the boards if turned sideways, but if not I'll just wire it remotely. That'd make it easier to change in the future anyway.
It still hasn't come in yet, but I'll let you guys know how it turns out when (and if
) it finally makes it here. I'm hoping that the battery will fit between the boards if turned sideways, but if not I'll just wire it remotely. That'd make it easier to change in the future anyway.
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lithy said:Ok so I'm looking to buy a battery for my 4 slot board, does anyone have a link to hopefully an exact replacement. If not, a close replacement
lithmeister, I got this one in from Radio Shack a couple of days ago, and it looks like it will probably fit it I lay it down sideways.
http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&category_name=CTLG_009_014_007_000&Page=3
(it's the blue one
)I haven't actually installed it yet, but it has basically the same exact ratings as my original battery (the original was 3.6 V and 50 mAh, while the Radio Shack one is 3.6 V and 60 mAh). I planned on installing it sooner, but I'm just sort of slammed with work right now. I might just go ahead and do it tomorrow though. Anyway, I'll post on this thread with the result as soon as it gets done.
The one complicating factor for me is that the battery pin on the board came loose,
and I'll have to re-solder that to the board before I connect the battery. Shouldn't be too bad, but there is the potential for trouble there.
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So .... yeah, I installed the Radio Shack battery and now slots 3-6 no longer work. 
So, unless I can sort this out, I must assume that they're fucked up because of the battery. Anyone contemplating replacing their 4 or 6 slot battery with the RS battery may want to hold off until I can figure out what happened.
So, unless I can sort this out, I must assume that they're fucked up because of the battery. Anyone contemplating replacing their 4 or 6 slot battery with the RS battery may want to hold off until I can figure out what happened.
ttooddddyy
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galfordo said:So .... yeah, I installed the Radio Shack battery and now slots 3-6 no longer work.
So, unless I can sort this out, I must assume that they're fucked up because of the battery. Anyone contemplating replacing their 4 or 6 slot battery with the RS battery may want to hold off until I can figure out what happened.
Unfortunate coincidence, take the battery out, make sure the connections between top and bottom boards are OK and try booting again.
I dont see how replacing the battewry could cause this unless you have splashed some solder or accidentally shorted something out with the board running.
chris1
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Yea I'd go with a connection issue between the top and bottom boards too..
Make sure all sides where those white pin connectors are fully pressed in..
Losen the screws on the sides of the board that hold it together a bit..
Maybe they are to tight now and making something not connect right.
I'd also double check to see if the bios chip is seated properly...
Make sure all sides where those white pin connectors are fully pressed in..
Losen the screws on the sides of the board that hold it together a bit..
Maybe they are to tight now and making something not connect right.
I'd also double check to see if the bios chip is seated properly...
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure you guys are right about the top and bottom boards. I think what happened was that the battery was making contact with one or more of the pins from the top board. When I took the battery out it started working fine again. I guess maybe I could try to put some some of highly resistant padding on the top board or something, but I've got another problem on top of that.
The solder that I'm using to solder the metal connector to the battery doesn't seem to hold well at all. It's a rosin core "44" type solder. I'm not really a whiz at soldering or anything, but I'm pretty sure it's the wrong shit for the job. The bad thing is that I'm not sure what type of metal I'm trying to solder together.
You guys got any recommendations?
The solder that I'm using to solder the metal connector to the battery doesn't seem to hold well at all. It's a rosin core "44" type solder. I'm not really a whiz at soldering or anything, but I'm pretty sure it's the wrong shit for the job. The bad thing is that I'm not sure what type of metal I'm trying to solder together.
You guys got any recommendations?
ttooddddyy
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As discussed earlier in this thread, if there is doubt about the clearance between the boards mount the battery remotely. Place some thin insulating material on top of the battery if you must mount it where the original was to avoid shorting to the top board..
You should be using 60/40 resin cored solder, typicaly 1mm diam.
Thats 60% Sn (tin) and 40% Pb (lead) anything else is not really suitable for this type of work.
You should be using 60/40 resin cored solder, typicaly 1mm diam.
Thats 60% Sn (tin) and 40% Pb (lead) anything else is not really suitable for this type of work.