Sega Blast City Contrroller Issue

TSXGuy

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Hey, I have a Sega Blast City with a 6 button, Versus City one player control panel.

I bought the cab about a month ago and when I got Pandora's Box 4 with the card to make all buttons work I thought I just bought the wrong card because none of the kick buttons in the game were working.

Flash forward to tonight where I am running an Atomiswave MB with Rumble Fish 2. Same problem, none of the bottom buttons on the controller are working. I looked inside and everything looks snug.

Any thoughts or possible easy fixes here? Thanks in advance for any help.
 

TSXGuy

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So I take it I'm going to need a CPS2 harness? I was told that anything non Capcom would work. I'm happy to do any research but if someone has a link or two as to what is needed that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
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madman

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The Atomiswave problem is odd, it uses standard JAMMA pinout and then the extra 5th button, but that's at the JAMMA edge, no need for a kick harness. Based on this the 5th button should be supported. Perhaps someone w/a Blast City can chime in on what might be wrong.
 

TSXGuy

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Also my apologies. While I do have the Atomiswave MB, in this case I'm actually running the Naomi 1 with DIMM, compact flash card reader, etc. Not sure if that makes a difference. I plan on buying most of my Atomiswave games but wanted to be honest in case that affects things. I wouldn't think it would.

Thanks very much madman and Craig. Great site!
 

madman

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Do regular NAOMI carts work fine? In the service mode what happens when you test the joysticks and buttons?
 

TSXGuy

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Thanks Mad. I know this is going to sound annoying but today is my first experience with Naomi so I'm not sure how to get to the boot menu. Let me start it up and see if I can get there to answer your question. Unfortunately, the only carts I had were a defective one and the Typing of the Dead which I sold.
 

Craig

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one of the black buttons on the filter board.
 

madman

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Your cab should have test/service buttons that allow you to enter the test mode and navigate the menus. Manual here: http://ohwow-arcade.com/Assets/Game_Manuals/MARVEL VS CAPCOM 2.PDF

Check page 7. Alternatively the NAOMI's filter board has two tiny buttons on the upper left, these also work.

Edit: Also I'm not sure how buttons 4 and 5 would work on the NAOMI when in Atomiswave mode with a CF kit. I thought the NAOMI only has buttons 1-3 at the JAMMA edge.
 
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TSXGuy

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So here is the Sega I/O board I bought. I would think a kick harness should work here no?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172199942517?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I have no problem spending money on a kick harness but I just don't have any idea on which kick harness I need. I know that others have gotten this setup to work well. Also, didn't just ignore your last post. I have no way of getting into the menu because I have that panel that will shut the entire unit off if I remove it. Would be tricky if not nearly impossible to try and reset those buttons on the Naomi MB while holding down the button where the small door latches. On page 7, it looks as though that is just the PCB and cables section. Is that the page you meant?

I really do appreciate the help. I'm pretty competent on this stuff it's just that this one has me stumped.
 
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madman

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The page that is numbered 7 in the manual, not the PDF page 7. I was talking about using test mode. That's what's on the page 7. "NAOMI SYSTEM TEST MODE." You could've also looked at the table of contents, or browsed the manual on your own to find the relevant information.
 

skate323k137

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So here is the Sega I/O board I bought. I would think a kick harness should work here no?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172199942517?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I have no problem spending money on a kick harness but I just don't have any idea on which kick harness I need. I know that others have gotten this setup to work well. Also, didn't just ignore your last post. I have no way of getting into the menu because I have that panel that will shut the entire unit off if I remove it. Would be tricky if not nearly impossible to try and reset those buttons on the Naomi MB while holding down the button where the small door latches. On page 7, it looks as though that is just the PCB and cables section. Is that the page you meant?

I really do appreciate the help. I'm pretty competent on this stuff it's just that this one has me stumped.

If the jumper is correct on that IO you can use a kick harness. Buttons 1-5 will be on JAMMA like an atomiswave and will come through the normal p1/p2 digital harnesses in the control panel. You would need to make or have made a custom kick harness to wire button 6 to the extra connector. Ideally you'd want a connection from the IO to the correct CN on the blast's distribution PCB (same one a cps2 kick harness would hook to), then a connection from the extra button connector in the CP to your button 6 for each player, or you can go hood and run wires straight from the IO to the buttons.

Pinout:

http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/JVS#Sega_838-13683-93
 

TSXGuy

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One thing I do want to add before I head off for the night is this. I bought the following:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191919028592?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/152147836275?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

So, I was told by the person who sold me the candy cab that the second board would work for the games on the Pandora's Box that required additional buttons. He's a straight up kid and a member on the boards here. However, per my original post in the thread, we soon discovered that the bottom kick buttons also do not work on the Pandora's box.

Hopefully this gives my issue a little more clarity. I just want to be able to use the buttons I need for both Naomi and Atomiswave. That being said, I'd love to just get a kick harness that would would work with all including Street Fighter versus Capcom, etc.


Thanks again to all.
 
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TSXGuy

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OK figured it out...sort of. I was able to get into the Naomi JVS setting and checked the input on the bottom 3 buttons. They do not register at all. The top 3 buttons register with a "1" which turns to "0" when you release. No such luck with the bottom 3 buttons.
 
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skate323k137

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Kick buttons are handled differently depending on hardware.

Your NAOMI IO handles buttons 4 and 5 the same as atomiswave; on the JAMMA edge. Look in your CP, they will be wired as such: http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sega_Blast_City_Wiring_Guide

For button 6 on NAOMI, you would want to utilise CN8 on the cabinet IO board; wire from that to your IO. IN the CP, you would use the AUX/KICK connector in the CP to finish that connection.

For CPS2, however, all buttons 4-6 need to go through the kick harness/CN8. Someone here I'm sure could make you a blast city kick harness for CPS2.

In other words, there are two different places in the control panel itself where buttons 4-5 can be wired, and which you use depends on the hardware you're playing. Atomiswave/Sega IO will use 4-5 on JAMMA (the normal P1/P2 connections). CPS2 or capcom IO for NAOMI will use 4-6 on the kick harness/AUX connector in the cp, and must be wired from CN8 to the game board in the PCB bay.
 

TSXGuy

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Great post Skate thanks so much. Just PM'd you and I think we are going to get this resolved very shortly.

My question is this: If I go CPS2 and use the CN8 port on the Blast City board on the right, all buttons should work for Atomiswave and Naomi correct?

Thanks again bro.
 

skate323k137

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They would all work for NAOMI; capcom IO handles 4-6 the same way as CPS2.

For atomiswave you would still have to make adjustments for buttons 4-5 (or just netboot the converted atomiswave games on NAOMI and save yourself the headache).
 

TSXGuy

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Thanks Skate for all of your help and to everyone else who has gotten me this far. I think I mentioned above but it looks like I have a harness that currently works on my Vampire Savior game. My Blast City JAMMA cable has two plugs that currently power the NAOMI and I am able to play games using the compact flash and the Sega/JVS I/O board. Flash forward till now, I just got a Capcom I/O board to replace the Sega/JVS I/O board. I can still power the Naomi board via the loom with the two NAOMI plugs. However, my question is this: Where does the plug from the Capcom I/O go? I was told there was another port on the Naomi board it hooks into but there isn’t one. Do I even need the plug on the Capcom I/O since the Naomi is already being powered by the JAMMA connector in the cabinet?

Second update:

I think I'm pretty close. I got the Capcom I/O board and it came with a plug. When I had the Sega I/O board I just used the two plugs on my JAMMA loom to power the Naomi and then just put the USB out into the Sega I/O board and everything worked. However, when I use the JAMMA loom and keep the same two power plugs in the NAOMI and connect the USB to the Capcom I/O it doesn't work. I'm NOT using the cable and plug that is on the top left of the Capcom I/O but every picture I see uses it. Do I not need to use both of the plugs on the JAMMA loom and instead put the plug from the Capcom I/O to one of the two plugs (right plug) on the NAOMI? I feel like I'm close but when I use my current setup without the plug on the Capcom I/O I get nothing.
 
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skate323k137

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I replied to your PM but I will post this here as well.

You do -not- want to plug the power cable between the CAPCOM IO and the NAOMI.

The only connection you should really need between the NAOMI and the IO is the USB (JVS) cable. Optionally you can run the video through the IO, if you don't have a VGA cable running to/from your monitor.

The 2 power connectors from the cab go to the NAOMI. The IO itself gets power from the JAMMA harness. Again, no need to connect the power from the IO to the NAOMI, that's for cartridge setups in cabinets that don't have the NAOMI power connectors.

There is a sync switch in the IO itself... if you are running video through the IO, check that switch. Otherwise please take a picture of how everything is hooked up so I can double check it.
 

TSXGuy

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Same here Skate and once again, thanks very much for your help, you've been awesome.

I put my old setup in with the Sega I/O board just in case the Capcom I/O board was bad. I hadn't read your PM yet but probably a good thing because I knew my Sega I/O board was good since I just used it. So I noticed that the compact flash card reader light was not on. The wall outlet that the compact flash reader is in has a wall switch. The wall switch was set to "On" so figured it was working. Well, what I didn't realize since I've only owned the house a little while is that the "OFF" position is actually "ON." So, turned the wall switch down, card reader light came on, replaced the Sega I/O with the Capcom I/O, hooked up my kick harness and....Wala!!! All 5 buttons work now. I freaking LOVE it! Thanks to Skate and also thanks to Madman and Craig who helped out. Really glad that Madman helped me figure out the test switches on the Blast City by sending the manual.

Hopefully I can help others if this problem comes up again.
 
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I just recently bought my first arcade cabinet (Blast City) and have it set up with a single slot MVS. The cab is setup for 6 buttons and from what I understand the Jamma edge should be able to support the 4th button, but I have tried several options and up to this point have had no luck.

I am new to the boards and not sure where this should be posted, but would be very grateful for any assistance.

I have tried wiring the 4th button on the 12 pin AMP UP (position #9) and the 10 pin AMP UP (position #1) and running them into the IO CN10 connector (pin 25 for P1 and 26 for P2). Then the CN5 wires are connected to the JAMMA edge (pin 25 for P1 and C for P2). On the male side, the 5V wire is running to each AMP UP, but the female connector does not have anything connected in the corresponding connector.
 

Westcb

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I just recently bought my first arcade cabinet (Blast City) and have it set up with a single slot MVS. The cab is setup for 6 buttons and from what I understand the Jamma edge should be able to support the 4th button, but I have tried several options and up to this point have had no luck.

I am new to the boards and not sure where this should be posted, but would be very grateful for any assistance.

I have tried wiring the 4th button on the 12 pin AMP UP (position #9) and the 10 pin AMP UP (position #1) and running them into the IO CN10 connector (pin 25 for P1 and 26 for P2). Then the CN5 wires are connected to the JAMMA edge (pin 25 for P1 and C for P2). On the male side, the 5V wire is running to each AMP UP, but the female connector does not have anything connected in the corresponding connector.



I don't know position numbers off the top of my head but you need to hook up the blue wire in my pic for button 4/D
f04542bbe72ad2872ec80dde70100f74.jpg

Assuming your blast wiring has not been hacked up that's all you need.
 
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Thank you for the response. I believe that I have tried this configuration, but I will give it a try again. On the connector shown in your picture, which wire should be connected to the pin that is 2 spaces to the left of the blue wire? Mine is left open and I am not certain if that is creating an issue.

By the way, where can I purchase that wire management mesh that you used. That is much more elegant than my current wire ties.
 

Westcb

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Thank you for the response. I believe that I have tried this configuration, but I will give it a try again. On the connector shown in your picture, which wire should be connected to the pin that is 2 spaces to the left of the blue wire? Mine is left open and I am not certain if that is creating an issue.

By the way, where can I purchase that wire management mesh that you used. That is much more elegant than my current wire ties.



Two to the left is empty, only the far left is used its for ground. The mesh you can buy from places like Amazon etc, it does keep things tidy :-) I would put a multimeter in the female port under the panel where you see that blue wire plug in and then test the Jamma edge button 4 and make sure you have continuity to ensure the wire under the cab is not sliced. This is 100 percent the correct way to wire in a blast so after you try again, start tracing wires to make sure no problems hiding under the cab.
 
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Two to the left is empty, only the far left is used its for ground. The mesh you can buy from places like Amazon etc, it does keep things tidy :-) I would put a multimeter in the female port under the panel where you see that blue wire plug in and then test the Jamma edge button 4 and make sure you have continuity to ensure the wire under the cab is not sliced. This is 100 percent the correct way to wire in a blast so after you try again, start tracing wires to make sure no problems hiding under the cab.

That worked!
After removing the extra wires from the 12 pin connectors, the D button is working like a dream.
Thanks again for the help.

Now i just need to order that mesh and work on my wire management...
 
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